need some help
need some help
Im doing an om617 swap in my yota and the crank pulley is resting up against my radiator. I cant push the motor back anymore and I cant push the radiator anymore forward. Im only using one belt since I dont have PS or AC. I saw another guy on another forum cut the front section of that pulley off. Would this be a problem if I did that?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-20-2014, 09:55 AM #2You should be okay, just make sure the pulley isn't a weird pressed assembly. An electric fan (eb*y or junkyard) is your friend
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-20-2014, 11:41 AM #4I have a 16" fan on my DD, it does the job well
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Some people weld up new -AN bungs for the cooler and oil filter then use regular AN lines
~or~
You can dremel off the lock rings and crimp on new hoses as long as you need
~or~
Bring the old ones to a hose shop and have a custom one made. (I've heard NAPA can do this, or call around to radiator shops)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-20-2014, 12:40 PM #6Remember, they run at up to 200psi.
Some people weld up new -AN bungs for the cooler and oil filter then use regular AN lines
~or~
You can dremel off the lock rings and crimp on new hoses as long as you need
~or~
Bring the old ones to a hose shop and have a custom one made. (I've heard NAPA can do this, or call around to radiator shops)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-23-2014, 01:02 AM #9I had new oil cooler lines made at a hydraulic shop after one of mine popped
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
![[Image: 20140224_161003.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h202/yotaman_2006/20140224_161003.jpg)
The white plastic guy on top of the injection pump is the vacuum controller, it's used to simulate engine vacuum like a gas engine and adjust how hard the benz automatic shifts. If you're going to a stickshift you don't need it.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-25-2014, 12:30 PM #11That's a rack position sensor, it was for the benz's EGR. You don't need it to run the truck.
The white plastic guy on top of the injection pump is the vacuum controller, it's used to simulate engine vacuum like a gas engine and adjust how hard the benz automatic shifts. If you're going to a stickshift you don't need it.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Ed
yankneck696
04-15-2014, 11:23 AM #14It would be best to just have some made at a local hydraulic shop. That way, they are correct for your application & usually 3600 PSI. They are pretty inexpensive, especially if you tell them about your wacky project that is nickle & diming you. Also ask about any other hose you can think of & they usually give great advice. Is yours an IFS truck, or SAS?
Ed
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
![[Image: IMG_20140324_161014.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h202/yotaman_2006/IMG_20140324_161014.jpg)
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