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Cleaning engine bays

Cleaning engine bays

 
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sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
05-03-2012, 03:53 AM #1
I'm just curious how every (well, almost every) time I see a video or pictures of other people's engine bays they are so squeaky clean!? Mine is dirty as, well its pretty dirty lol, and despite having tried to clean it little by little it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Is there some trick to keeping the engine and everything clean??

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-03-2012, 03:53 AM #1

I'm just curious how every (well, almost every) time I see a video or pictures of other people's engine bays they are so squeaky clean!? Mine is dirty as, well its pretty dirty lol, and despite having tried to clean it little by little it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Is there some trick to keeping the engine and everything clean??


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
05-03-2012, 07:40 AM #2
New gaskets. I kinda regret powerwashing mine though, the block started to rust after I had it clean.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-03-2012, 07:40 AM #2

New gaskets. I kinda regret powerwashing mine though, the block started to rust after I had it clean.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

larsalan
Superturbo

1,272
05-03-2012, 07:42 AM #3
How about a can of de-greasser followed up by a garden hose?

Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
larsalan
05-03-2012, 07:42 AM #3

How about a can of de-greasser followed up by a garden hose?


Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'

yatzee
TA 0301

61
05-03-2012, 08:42 AM #4
i don't know if I'd ever put a garden hose on any engine. With all the electronic crap and connectors, I don't really want to encourage any corrosion to start.

1991 350SDL, burning oil and slow
1991 500SL, yet another project car
1984 190D, swapped 3.6 m104 with a megasquirt
yatzee
05-03-2012, 08:42 AM #4

i don't know if I'd ever put a garden hose on any engine. With all the electronic crap and connectors, I don't really want to encourage any corrosion to start.


1991 350SDL, burning oil and slow
1991 500SL, yet another project car
1984 190D, swapped 3.6 m104 with a megasquirt

JustPassinThru
W123 and W124

491
05-03-2012, 09:40 AM #5
Pressure washer. There's nothing in the 300D engine bay that high-pressure water will hurt, provided you disconnect the battery first. *Except*, don't spray it directly on the water pump, it might get into the vent hole. If you leave water on the water pump housing, it'll rust. You need not ask me how I know this. Probably a good idea to take it for a 10-mile cruise at 60 MPH as soon as you pressure-wash it, to dry it off. Good idea to lube the throttle linkage, too. Blast out the hood-hinge wells first, then the bottom around the mounts, then the recesses where the injectors sit--that is, get everything washed first that's going to spatter a mess everywhere. Then clean the mess off. Might want to tape plastic over your hoodmat first. Wear discardable clothes. Goggles are a good idea.
This post was last modified: 05-03-2012, 09:45 AM by JustPassinThru.

Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
05-03-2012, 09:40 AM #5

Pressure washer. There's nothing in the 300D engine bay that high-pressure water will hurt, provided you disconnect the battery first. *Except*, don't spray it directly on the water pump, it might get into the vent hole. If you leave water on the water pump housing, it'll rust. You need not ask me how I know this. Probably a good idea to take it for a 10-mile cruise at 60 MPH as soon as you pressure-wash it, to dry it off. Good idea to lube the throttle linkage, too. Blast out the hood-hinge wells first, then the bottom around the mounts, then the recesses where the injectors sit--that is, get everything washed first that's going to spatter a mess everywhere. Then clean the mess off. Might want to tape plastic over your hoodmat first. Wear discardable clothes. Goggles are a good idea.


Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
05-03-2012, 10:20 AM #6
I used the pressure washer to remove my hood pad Smile

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-03-2012, 10:20 AM #6

I used the pressure washer to remove my hood pad Smile


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

serverman777
GT2559V

226
05-03-2012, 10:34 AM #7
I keep both of my Mercedes Engine bays cleaner than the outside of the car it self. Hit up a walmart and get the super tech foam de-greasser. Go to a car wash. Let the motor cool for a few mins. Then spray the de-gresser on the motor. Let it set for like 5 or mins and then start the car and power wash the shit out of everything. Like everything. Don't be scared water don't hurt anything.

'84 300 SD w126 Race Car Wink
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
serverman777
05-03-2012, 10:34 AM #7

I keep both of my Mercedes Engine bays cleaner than the outside of the car it self. Hit up a walmart and get the super tech foam de-greasser. Go to a car wash. Let the motor cool for a few mins. Then spray the de-gresser on the motor. Let it set for like 5 or mins and then start the car and power wash the shit out of everything. Like everything. Don't be scared water don't hurt anything.


'84 300 SD w126 Race Car Wink
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver

JustPassinThru
W123 and W124

491
05-03-2012, 10:35 AM #8
(05-03-2012, 10:20 AM)Simpler=Better I used the pressure washer to remove my hood pad Smile

Big Grin I hadn't thought of that. Took four hours to scrape mine off.


(05-03-2012, 10:34 AM)serverman777 ...Don't be scared water don't hurt anything.

Don't pressure-wash the brake booster though. Or, at least, be very careful. A Karcher portable pressure-washer at point-blank range will peel its paint right off. Probably a good idea to do the air cleaner by hand, too (mine's been repainted, so a pressure-washer doesn't hurt it). Doesn't hurt the radiator or oil cooler paint or inside-of-engine-bay paint at all, if you keep the nozzle more than an inch-and-a-half away.

This post was last modified: 05-03-2012, 10:52 AM by JustPassinThru.

Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
05-03-2012, 10:35 AM #8

(05-03-2012, 10:20 AM)Simpler=Better I used the pressure washer to remove my hood pad Smile

Big Grin I hadn't thought of that. Took four hours to scrape mine off.


(05-03-2012, 10:34 AM)serverman777 ...Don't be scared water don't hurt anything.

Don't pressure-wash the brake booster though. Or, at least, be very careful. A Karcher portable pressure-washer at point-blank range will peel its paint right off. Probably a good idea to do the air cleaner by hand, too (mine's been repainted, so a pressure-washer doesn't hurt it). Doesn't hurt the radiator or oil cooler paint or inside-of-engine-bay paint at all, if you keep the nozzle more than an inch-and-a-half away.


Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
05-03-2012, 02:14 PM #9
All good tips, thanks guys! I think I'll have to try some of this stuff out. Definitely gonna need to tape a grocery bag or something around my air filter (Fram 8038), and take out the battery first. I guess after that I don't see water hurting anything, since the only electric stuff is the glowplugs and starter, and the valves and pump for my wvo stuff

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-03-2012, 02:14 PM #9

All good tips, thanks guys! I think I'll have to try some of this stuff out. Definitely gonna need to tape a grocery bag or something around my air filter (Fram 8038), and take out the battery first. I guess after that I don't see water hurting anything, since the only electric stuff is the glowplugs and starter, and the valves and pump for my wvo stuff


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
05-04-2012, 02:26 AM #10
(05-03-2012, 10:20 AM)Simpler=Better I used the pressure washer to remove my hood pad Smile

As did I haha


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
05-04-2012, 02:26 AM #10

(05-03-2012, 10:20 AM)Simpler=Better I used the pressure washer to remove my hood pad Smile

As did I haha



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

 
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