(06-28-2012, 06:01 AM)ronnie I know what the problem was , you put shoes on, supposed to work barefooted....

Glad you got it together, sometimes simple things have a way of just taking forever and being maddening. I have been working on a boat repair for the last few days that I thought might have taken an hour or two.

(06-28-2012, 08:40 AM)JB3 that is a nice brass fitting, very elegant solution.

What is it? Looks like a bulkhead boat tank fitting?

I went with welding a threaded port to me lower oil pan, but this looks way better, ill be going this route instead I think

(06-28-2012, 10:21 AM)willbhere4u I did almost the exact same thing but I used an an10 bulk head fitting and bolted my return hose to it

(06-29-2012, 02:58 PM)willbhere4u Make sure you replace the heat shields they are one time use!

(06-29-2012, 04:32 PM)ronnie You will need the seal rings for the pc's too if you (we?) take them out to ream the burn holes.

By the way on the welding, both parts have galvinazation on them so lightly grinding to bare metal will help with a cleaner weld. Good first time try, should hold.

(06-30-2012, 11:01 AM)aaa That's the oil separator, turbo models have that inside the aircleaner. Where are you putting the normal 240d oil separator? If you're keeping the 240d one you can ignore the one in the aircleaner. If you want to use the turbo oil separator then you will have to deal with the different blowby oil drain, you can see the 240d drain is in a totally different spot.

(06-30-2012, 01:02 PM)ronnie Yours does not have the oil seperater, only newer ones. On the 300d air cleaner I just plugged the drain on it. Of course yours being an older engine you may have some oil in the blowby, so you may want to just run the drain to a catch can. It seems like the 300's had two drains in the oil pan. not at home at the moment so can't check that, maybe some else with a 300 will speak up.

Idle cable, in the process of tuning your ip that can be eliminated. As a proper idle can be had without haveing to mess with a manuel adjustment all the time.

(07-02-2012, 08:28 AM)Simpler=Better Now that you have heard it run without an exhaust, you have been tainted. The only solution is a hood stack

Time to turn up that pump!

(07-02-2012, 01:09 PM)DeliveryValve Nice Great Job on this!

Your oil pressure seems normal to me.


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(07-02-2012, 05:10 PM)ronnie Think 10, or 15 is the factory minimum for oil pressure at idle, warmed up. so no worries.

Looks nice.

(07-03-2012, 01:58 AM)sassparilla_kid Is it an electric boost gauge??

(07-03-2012, 08:05 AM)Simpler=Better Let's see some pics of the gauges, model #s, etc.

(07-03-2012, 10:06 AM)Simpler=Better The boost gauge is mechanical, as long as it's properly hooked up you're good to go.

The pyrometer sounds like you have a poor ground / power supply, make sure you've run a clean ground and a clean hot to the gauge. My guess is that changing colors sucks power down and gives you funky readings. Did you extend the pyrometer sending wires anywhere?

(07-03-2012, 02:44 PM)Simpler=Better Wait, do you not have a connecting pipe in your setup? If you don't have one I can mail you one of my old ones, it's sharp-lipped though. Just takes dremel time to make it smooth like that.

(07-20-2012, 08:35 PM)sassparilla_kid Fuuuuu....................... I would have just killed those people. You are having shitty luck these past few days, maybe/hopefully that means you'll get lucky and find some killer deals soon or something

(07-21-2012, 11:38 AM)Simpler=Better I have a spare grille. It's not perfect, doesn't have an emblem, but it's your for shipping.