(03-29-2014, 02:57 PM)sassparilla_kid Simpler added about eight steps to that lol, in reality all you have to do is loosen the nuts/bolts holding the IP on, wire the throttle to full open, remove the fuel lines, and delivery valve number 1, remove vacuum lines from pump, tbd use the drip tool and pump the primer pump, moving the IP, until you get the drops of fuel at the correct rate. Thus is all done with cylinder 1 at 24-26° BEFORE top dead center, on the compression stroke, and there's marks on the harmonic balancer that show degrees

(04-10-2014, 08:19 AM)Purplecomputer Im thinking of switching over to a bigger radiator and an electric fan. What do you guys think?

(04-10-2014, 08:32 AM)CRD4x4 How could you go wrong with a bigger rad? Go for it!
The electric fan would be a great upgrade too as long as you replace your trunk seal first

(04-10-2014, 08:19 AM)Purplecomputer Im thinking of switching over to a bigger radiator and an electric fan. What do you guys think?

(04-11-2014, 02:46 PM)sassparilla_kid I think a radiator flush is in order, as well as new thermostat and maybe water pump, before you go re engineering the cooling system. Might could try getting a radiator from a turbo car, they're a little bigger I believe

(04-13-2014, 08:22 AM)Greazzer You have enough space for a 3" all aluminum aftermarket. You could even relocate the oil cooler, and have the radiator be around 30" wide. They cost around $200. I started having heating issues last year, and I got one which was around the same dimensions of the OEM one (was grafted from my first MB). Until it gets really hot in South Carolina, I don't have any fans at all (I am excluding the A/C condenser fan up front) and my car never goes past 80C. If you have overheating issues, it is most likely the water pump, the thermostat, or the radiator, assuming no leaks or head issues. And yes, re-engineering the cooling system is timely and costly. OEM water pumps run $85 and all aluminum aftermarket 3" radiators off Ebay run around $200.00. So, if you want to re-do the system and get rid of all possible issues (excluding major engine issues), you are looking at around $350.00 in your budget and that avoids R&D and any real changes.

I go through my long winded explanation since I have learned the very hard way that it's possible to make this or that minor or singular repair, but in the long run, it is always better to replace all items or components in a particular problem area and that saves a lot of time. Time is my real enemy (and money), but if I get 1-2 hours a week now to tinker with my pet project, I am lucky. If you're in the same boat, get all the parts, plan it out, and in the long run, the project goes by super fast and you won't have any problems next weekend.

(04-13-2014, 12:03 PM)Greazzer STAY AWAY FROM URO. EXCLUDE ALL THE HYPE ON THE OTHER FORUMS. My current DD has Uro parts and I doubt they are more than two years or so old and every piece of rubber is rotten. I have to do my front end, but most likely in the fall. Assuming time is a commodity, then why go thru the long weekend making everything new again only for it to fail within a year versus 10 years ? Buy German. Look around on Autohauz AZ, Ebay, and price shop during your market research. $600 sounds about right, but it's worth it since you will have rotten rubber parts within 12-24 months if you buy Uro.

(04-13-2014, 07:28 PM)Simpler=Better Flush the radiator, it's easy when the weather is warm and super easy if you have a garden hose.

After a flush, installing an e-fan, it's the best bang for buck on my low power DD. Just make sure you get the right temperature switch to trigger the relay. My fan RARELY kicks on even in the summer-only when I'm in stop & go.

(05-02-2014, 08:25 PM)Simpler=Better For an E fan Taurus's seem to be popular, reallly any fan that fits. WJ (2000-2004) jeeps have e fans too (or hydraulic fans)

Buy an oiler can from HF and pump fluid from teh bottom up that's the preferred way.

On the plus side, your skin is now extra soft because yo umelted the top 3 layers off.

(05-03-2014, 02:59 PM)sassparilla_kid That trick with the can doesn't really work for shit for bleeding the clutch, been there done that. The official Mercedes method is to use a hose to connect the slave bleeder to the front passenger brake bleeder and use the brakes. Pretty much the only method I've read that works every time, also kind of a pain in the ass

(05-05-2014, 11:42 AM)Simpler=Better glad you kinda got it sorted. we're all rooting for you kid!

(05-06-2014, 04:00 PM)Dieselsec I had the same problem with an old range rover. Did a manual trans swap from auto. Took a few days to bleed the slave properly but would go mushy after a while. No sign of leaking and reservoir level didnt drop. I put in a new slave cylinder and that fixed the problem. It must have been drawing in air somewhere.

(05-07-2014, 07:26 AM)MFSuper90 I didn't study for a single final this semester, and ended up with a 3.2 GPA!
Studying is overrated, or maybe its just because 4 out of my 5 finals were open book

(05-07-2014, 08:56 AM)Purplecomputer

(05-07-2014, 07:26 AM)MFSuper90 I didn't study for a single final this semester, and ended up with a 3.2 GPA!
Studying is overrated, or maybe its just because 4 out of my 5 finals were open book

Well one final is for an intro to windows 7 class. Im already certified in that stuff so I dont really need to study. The other is Network OS which consists of setting up a complete network from scratch with a server and set up a domain and all that jazz. I just set up a domain in my home for practice.

Never realized the control I get over everyone on the network with a server

(05-10-2014, 01:08 PM)Purplecomputer I would be more then happy to help you set up a network. More practice for me!

Just got a call back from the mechanic. Turns out I had a shitload of air in the system and to top it off my clutch needs to be replaced. They havent given me an estimate because they werent sure I wanted to put money into the car.

lol

(05-10-2014, 06:18 PM)JB3

(05-10-2014, 01:08 PM)Purplecomputer I would be more then happy to help you set up a network. More practice for me!

Just got a call back from the mechanic. Turns out I had a shitload of air in the system and to top it off my clutch needs to be replaced. They havent given me an estimate because they werent sure I wanted to put money into the car.

lol

how are they determining the clutch needs to be replaced? did they bleed the full system and get it reliable?

A questionable clutch can be milked essentially forever, and when you need to do it, its ridiculously easy on a 240. Don't let them do it, just get the car back and see how you think about their diagnosis.

I have had a 240 gearbox out of a 115 and into a 123 in under 45 minutes in a big rush on jack stands, just to give you an idea on how manageable the light 4-speeds are.


As an example, in my 83 240, i threw a rusty clutch in there that was shipped to me free with a flywheel some years back. Still had some meat on it though. I also threw in a used release bearing, and some other crapola lying around the shop. Basically I did everything that you really shouldn't do, and the release bearing has been making noise the entire time, but ive put almost 20k on this arrangement by being nice to it.

(05-11-2014, 05:31 PM)JB3 350 isnt bad.

I was thinking this was gonna be a 700 to 800 dollar labor quote to repair which is what ive gotten with similarly simple un requested quotes. Guy sounds reasonable.

with parts around 500 is not a bad price to have a new clutch

(05-12-2014, 09:30 AM)Purplecomputer

(05-11-2014, 05:31 PM)JB3 350 isnt bad.

I was thinking this was gonna be a 700 to 800 dollar labor quote to repair which is what ive gotten with similarly simple un requested quotes. Guy sounds reasonable.

with parts around 500 is not a bad price to have a new clutch

My coworker said that is reasonable too. He told me clutch jobs are usually very expensive especially when the word Mercedes is involved.

And this guy has never ripped me off and has even let me walk into the garage and show me what exactly is going on.

He's just been super busy, being reasonable and a good mechanic made him very successful so he's always swamped with work.

I'll see you guys in like a month.

(05-16-2014, 05:46 PM)willbhere4u Sounds like it needs more bleeding? also there is a spring on the clutch pedal that can get out of wack

(05-20-2014, 12:00 PM)willbhere4u The Bilsten HD will help loads! i also got a new Bilsten steering dampener that helped steering feel a lot also as my old one was shot

(05-20-2014, 02:32 PM)willbhere4u When you cut the stock springs they get stiffer less coils = more stiff The 240d springs should work nicely cut a little at a time and use a cut off wheel easy way is to jack it up use a spring compressor and then cut it take the compressor off lower the car down roll it around to settle the suspension maybe Evan drive it around the block and repeat until you like it. I would start with 1 coil. and probably wouldn't go past 2 coils total.

This way you get practice before you botch up a pair of 300d springs the 300d spring will make it ride very high up front and will need way more cut off than the 240d springs.

if the 240 springs and Bilsten shocks are not stiff enough then try the 300d springs but I think you will be happy with the 240d springs and the hd installed

(05-29-2014, 05:31 PM)willbhere4u Yea always buy MB approved or German parts if possible. The cheap junk from auto zone or china sucks balls! good quality parts will last almost 30 years with no problems. The china junk is almost always bad after a year or so. Pay more now to pay less later kinda thing a lot of that stuff can also be rebuilt witch is Evan better.

(05-30-2014, 07:30 AM)Purplecomputer Ive bought parts from them before and they have held up so I figured why not.

I should probably get new rotors then. I bought them off ebay like three years ago. Surprised they haven't split in two.

(05-29-2014, 03:51 PM)Purplecomputer SO

dont buy parts from autozone, especially a master clutch and slave cylinder. THEY SUCK!

turns out my whole problem with the clutch pedal not return had to do with the fact that the little pistons inside the master and slave cylinders were not returning to their rest position but instead getting stuck in the middle of the cylinder.

I took the rubber parts off the new ones and put the one the old ones, bled the system in like 5 minutes and BAM, everything is back to normal.

going to see if i can return those parts.

edit: trying not to curse as much

Quote:If the shitty AZ parts didn't fucking work the first goddamn time, return those assholes. Be polite but persistent with the kid at the counter, he's just trying to make a dime.

Also,

much fender
yellow doge
wow