Stronger OM606 headbolts?
Stronger OM606 headbolts?
04-05-2020, 09:46 PM
#1
This is in the G, which is a tad too heavy for the engine. On long loaded hill climbs it is continuously putting out max power.
Is there a stronger alternative? Other diagnoses? Maybe ease up on the throttle?
Looks like I've stretched out at least one head bolt again. Believe the last set was "VictorReinz". I haven't actually pulled the head off, but the last time, two bolts (between cylinders 1 & 2) were loose to the touch and had been stretched an extra 2-3mm in the threaded portion. The head was flat, in fact it was quite driveable (no leakage) as long as one didn't drive it hard.
This is in the G, which is a tad too heavy for the engine. On long loaded hill climbs it is continuously putting out max power.
Is there a stronger alternative? Other diagnoses? Maybe ease up on the throttle?
04-06-2020, 07:37 AM
#2
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
Attached Files
Baldur Gislason
If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
Attached Files
Baldur Gislason
04-06-2020, 12:33 PM
#3
(04-06-2020, 07:37 AM)baldur If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
You need to spend the money and buy genuine Mercedes head bolts and torque them using the correct factory method. What kind of EGT temps are you pulling ?
(04-06-2020, 07:37 AM)baldur If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
You need to spend the money and buy genuine Mercedes head bolts and torque them using the correct factory method. What kind of EGT temps are you pulling ?
04-06-2020, 01:42 PM
#4
(04-06-2020, 07:37 AM)baldur If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
Thanks, I'll look into that. Their site doesn't seem very well oriented towards mixing and matching parts for vehicles that they don't make kits for.
As far as buying genuine MB bolts, I'd need to be convinced that they were any better. MB has not always been the best source. Unsure of the EGT, but the first problems happened with stock power on a significantly opened up exhaust. I think the factory was betting on max power being used for passing, rather than 10 minutes of foot to the floor. Engine temp was reasonable 90C-ish until it suddenly jumped. I presume when the bolt(s) let go.
This post was last modified: 04-06-2020, 01:44 PM by AlanMcR.
(04-06-2020, 07:37 AM)baldur If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
Thanks, I'll look into that. Their site doesn't seem very well oriented towards mixing and matching parts for vehicles that they don't make kits for.
As far as buying genuine MB bolts, I'd need to be convinced that they were any better. MB has not always been the best source. Unsure of the EGT, but the first problems happened with stock power on a significantly opened up exhaust. I think the factory was betting on max power being used for passing, rather than 10 minutes of foot to the floor. Engine temp was reasonable 90C-ish until it suddenly jumped. I presume when the bolt(s) let go.
04-06-2020, 06:06 PM
#5
(04-06-2020, 01:42 PM)AlanMcR(04-06-2020, 07:37 AM)baldur If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
Thanks, I'll look into that. Their site doesn't seem very well oriented towards mixing and matching parts for vehicles that they don't make kits for.
As far as buying genuine MB bolts, I'd need to be convinced that they were any better. MB has not always been the best source. Unsure of the EGT, but the first problems happened with stock power on a significantly opened up exhaust. I think the factory was betting on max power being used for passing, rather than 10 minutes of foot to the floor. Engine temp was reasonable 90C-ish until it suddenly jumped. I presume when the bolt(s) let go.
Yes the web site is not great for that, but if you send them the measurements they will assist you in finding the right parts from their catalogue.
Baldur Gislason
(04-06-2020, 01:42 PM)AlanMcR(04-06-2020, 07:37 AM)baldur If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
Thanks, I'll look into that. Their site doesn't seem very well oriented towards mixing and matching parts for vehicles that they don't make kits for.
As far as buying genuine MB bolts, I'd need to be convinced that they were any better. MB has not always been the best source. Unsure of the EGT, but the first problems happened with stock power on a significantly opened up exhaust. I think the factory was betting on max power being used for passing, rather than 10 minutes of foot to the floor. Engine temp was reasonable 90C-ish until it suddenly jumped. I presume when the bolt(s) let go.
Yes the web site is not great for that, but if you send them the measurements they will assist you in finding the right parts from their catalogue.
Baldur Gislason
04-07-2020, 04:18 AM
#6
(04-06-2020, 01:42 PM)AlanMcR Thanks, I'll look into that. Their site doesn't seem very well oriented towards mixing and matching parts for vehicles that they don't make kits for.
As far as buying genuine MB bolts, I'd need to be convinced that they were any better. MB has not always been the best source. Unsure of the EGT, but the first problems happened with stock power on a significantly opened up exhaust. I think the factory was betting on max power being used for passing, rather than 10 minutes of foot to the floor. Engine temp was reasonable 90C-ish until it suddenly jumped. I presume when the bolt(s) let go.
Seems strange. This forum is full of people running 2-3 if not more bars of boost with fuel to match on stock bolts and HGs....
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
(04-06-2020, 01:42 PM)AlanMcR Thanks, I'll look into that. Their site doesn't seem very well oriented towards mixing and matching parts for vehicles that they don't make kits for.
As far as buying genuine MB bolts, I'd need to be convinced that they were any better. MB has not always been the best source. Unsure of the EGT, but the first problems happened with stock power on a significantly opened up exhaust. I think the factory was betting on max power being used for passing, rather than 10 minutes of foot to the floor. Engine temp was reasonable 90C-ish until it suddenly jumped. I presume when the bolt(s) let go.
Seems strange. This forum is full of people running 2-3 if not more bars of boost with fuel to match on stock bolts and HGs....
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
04-07-2020, 05:29 AM
#7
This post was last modified: 04-07-2020, 05:31 AM by baldur.
Baldur Gislason
You should also look at your pump timing. Injection timing is critical for cylinder pressures, and it has to be tuned on a dyno, the only correct advance is the least amount of advance that still produces maximum power. Overadvancing the pump not only hurts power but hurts the engine as well. Injecting too early produces much increased cylinder pressures.
Baldur Gislason
04-09-2020, 01:59 AM
#9
(04-06-2020, 01:42 PM)AlanMcR(04-06-2020, 07:37 AM)baldur If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
Thanks, I'll look into that. Their site doesn't seem very well oriented towards mixing and matching parts for vehicles that they don't make kits for.
As far as buying genuine MB bolts, I'd need to be convinced that they were any better. MB has not always been the best source. Unsure of the EGT, but the first problems happened with stock power on a significantly opened up exhaust. I think the factory was betting on max power being used for passing, rather than 10 minutes of foot to the floor. Engine temp was reasonable 90C-ish until it suddenly jumped. I presume when the bolt(s) let go.
Factory set the engine up for the german market, which means that people drive it for hours at maximum speed on the autobahn or pull 3.5ton trailers with a G with this engine.
(04-06-2020, 01:42 PM)AlanMcR(04-06-2020, 07:37 AM)baldur If you have your head and block separated you can make some measurements and send an inquiry to ARP to assemble a set that will work. I did this for my OM602.
I have attached the measurement sheet that I made for the 602.
Get in touch with ARP at https://arp-bolts.com/p/contact.php
Thanks, I'll look into that. Their site doesn't seem very well oriented towards mixing and matching parts for vehicles that they don't make kits for.
As far as buying genuine MB bolts, I'd need to be convinced that they were any better. MB has not always been the best source. Unsure of the EGT, but the first problems happened with stock power on a significantly opened up exhaust. I think the factory was betting on max power being used for passing, rather than 10 minutes of foot to the floor. Engine temp was reasonable 90C-ish until it suddenly jumped. I presume when the bolt(s) let go.
Factory set the engine up for the german market, which means that people drive it for hours at maximum speed on the autobahn or pull 3.5ton trailers with a G with this engine.
04-11-2020, 04:10 PM
#12
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Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Was chasing thing like this on bmv crapheap M51. Even developed my own 12.9 head studs. Turned out to be warped block and possibly weak threads in block. Had head off like 5 times and each time I torqued it felt like you are not torqueing at all. So kinda combination of both. Is your block flat? How does bolts feel when you tighten? There is no problem with factory bolts on this engine, save money on ARP studs. If you want you can buy genuine used 606 bolts from some breaker. Never seen used one from factory engine stretched by a bit, so perfectly fit for reuse.
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Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
04-12-2020, 11:14 PM
#13
atypicalguy
04-12-2020, 11:14 PM #13Yeah it sounds like either the head or the block needs decking while you change the gasket.
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