Gearbox Controller 722.6 ver 2
Gearbox Controller 722.6 ver 2
(12-19-2014, 06:02 PM)Eric78 What do we do if our gear shifter doesn't have the plug? On nearly all the ones for sale on ebay the plug is just cut off.
(12-19-2014, 06:02 PM)Eric78 What do we do if our gear shifter doesn't have the plug? On nearly all the ones for sale on ebay the plug is just cut off.
Anyone got there controller working good that could give me some pointers?
just an thought what if im far away from home and the controller would stop working?
Does the 722.6 gearbox run at all without the controller? so its possible to "Limp home" ?
Not that i think it would break down but its an interesting thought.
(01-22-2015, 02:57 AM)MrHope just an thought what if im far away from home and the controller would stop working?
Does the 722.6 gearbox run at all without the controller? so its possible to "Limp home" ?
Not that i think it would break down but its an interesting thought.
(01-22-2015, 02:57 AM)MrHope just an thought what if im far away from home and the controller would stop working?
Does the 722.6 gearbox run at all without the controller? so its possible to "Limp home" ?
Not that i think it would break down but its an interesting thought.
(01-22-2015, 04:01 AM)olefejer(01-22-2015, 02:57 AM)MrHope just an thought what if im far away from home and the controller would stop working?
Does the 722.6 gearbox run at all without the controller? so its possible to "Limp home" ?
Not that i think it would break down but its an interesting thought.
Hi
If you take out the big Gearbox plug, = no controller at all.
Then it will start in and run in second gear, and also have reverse gear, so that you can drive home.
(01-22-2015, 04:01 AM)olefejer(01-22-2015, 02:57 AM)MrHope just an thought what if im far away from home and the controller would stop working?
Does the 722.6 gearbox run at all without the controller? so its possible to "Limp home" ?
Not that i think it would break down but its an interesting thought.
Hi
If you take out the big Gearbox plug, = no controller at all.
Then it will start in and run in second gear, and also have reverse gear, so that you can drive home.
I bought one of these controllers from olefejer, very happy with it.
All shifts can be independently altered to softer or harder, cool thing I must say. It also works as a boost controller, I don't use this feature atm but i'm going to. In my opinion only weak point is gearindicator, on daylight it is hardly seen because of white dials, but main display has very good contrast. Because I use it on STD, one problem is getting TPS working right. I have dieselmeken 7,5mm pump and it has very long throttle movement. Problem is that if I calibrate all that movement from 0-100% throttle I have max boost on 35% TPS and shifts are a bit slippery then, other 40-100% throttle is useless. In other words engine runs full load when throttle pedal is not even on half way. I have to modify my throttle linkage a little and if I get boost controller working I can change the boost value on different TP and it should solve the problem.
(01-25-2015, 04:02 PM)erx In my opinion only weak point is gearindicator, on daylight it is hardly seen because of white dials, but main display has very good contrast.Regarding the Gearindicator if you can find a Red Glass it would help put that in front, it gives better contrast.
Because I use it on STD, one problem is getting TPS working right. I have dieselmeken 7,5mm pump and it has very long throttle movement. Problem is that if I calibrate all that movement from 0-100% throttle I have max boost on 35% TPS and shifts are a bit slippery then, other 40-100% throttle is useless. In other words engine runs full load when throttle pedal is not even on half way. I have to modify my throttle linkage a little and if I get boost controller working I can change the boost value on different TP and it should solve the problem.
(01-25-2015, 04:02 PM)erx In my opinion only weak point is gearindicator, on daylight it is hardly seen because of white dials, but main display has very good contrast.Regarding the Gearindicator if you can find a Red Glass it would help put that in front, it gives better contrast.
Because I use it on STD, one problem is getting TPS working right. I have dieselmeken 7,5mm pump and it has very long throttle movement. Problem is that if I calibrate all that movement from 0-100% throttle I have max boost on 35% TPS and shifts are a bit slippery then, other 40-100% throttle is useless. In other words engine runs full load when throttle pedal is not even on half way. I have to modify my throttle linkage a little and if I get boost controller working I can change the boost value on different TP and it should solve the problem.
I bought one one of these controllers 2 years ago from Ole, finally got to drive the G wagen today with it installed and can't praise it highly enough!
Ole is a great guy to deal with, any emails with questions are answered in under 10 minutes most times, can't recommend him and his controller highly enough.
Many thanks Ole! [/u]
Only thing I would like to see is a turbo controller stand alone from the gearbox controller. Some of us drives a stick and would like to use a he351ve turbo and for the sole use of turbo controller the gearbox controller is a bit expensive.
So a budget version that reads, speed and rev and calculates gear from that together with TPS would be just awesome (maybe EGT). Could even be no display at all and USB instead and we could all tune the turbo via the old laptop.
I am trying to get my speedo to work with the controller. Anyone got any tips? The thing works great otherwise. I have speedo out to green with black wire.
(01-26-2015, 09:23 PM)TurboTim I am trying to get my speedo to work with the controller. Anyone got any tips? The thing works great otherwise. I have speedo out to green with black wire.What speedomometer do you have ?
(01-26-2015, 09:23 PM)TurboTim I am trying to get my speedo to work with the controller. Anyone got any tips? The thing works great otherwise. I have speedo out to green with black wire.What speedomometer do you have ?
It's just the stock speedometer.
(01-27-2015, 11:20 PM)TurboTim It's just the stock speedometer.Yes but how does the plug looks on the backside of the Speedo.
(01-27-2015, 11:20 PM)TurboTim It's just the stock speedometer.Yes but how does the plug looks on the backside of the Speedo.
I have the top picture. I have the "speedo ext" wire to pin 5, its a white wire and I also have the 2 other, power and ground. I tried setting to -3 and 1 and still am not getting anything. Could there be some other setting in the software I could have messed with or need to? Is it possible the output got damaged. I did have it hooked up to a green with white wire that goes to the cruise module that I thought was the speedo input but I think its actually the speedo input from the cluster? The wire has 4 volts KOEO. Is the circuit protected because it seems even when I scope it I get nothing.
(01-31-2015, 01:00 AM)TurboTim I have the top picture. I have the "speedo ext" wire to pin 5, its a white wire and I also have the 2 other, power and ground. I tried setting to -3 and 1 and still am not getting anything. Could there be some other setting in the software I could have messed with or need to? Is it possible the output got damaged. I did have it hooked up to a green with white wire that goes to the cruise module that I thought was the speedo input but I think its actually the speedo input from the cluster? The wire has 4 volts KOEO. Is the circuit protected because it seems even when I scope it I get nothing.Just connected it this morning on the Table
So I just looked at your manual again and I am very confused about what pin to use. You have a pin for "EXT Speedo" but in the manual it says use pin D47 as far as I can tell, but then my Tacho output is on D37?
Last update of the night....so D37 should get wired to the white wire on pin 5 behind the cluster. I still have to mess with the number but I am pretty sure 15 will be too low of a number for me. I will update tomorrow for people who are putting this amazing controller into a 300SDL in case the wiring is different for other cars.
(01-31-2015, 01:00 AM)TurboTim I have the top picture. I have the "speedo ext" wire to pin 5, its a white wire and I also have the 2 other, power and ground. I tried setting to -3 and 1 and still am not getting anything. Could there be some other setting in the software I could have messed with or need to? Is it possible the output got damaged. I did have it hooked up to a green with white wire that goes to the cruise module that I thought was the speedo input but I think its actually the speedo input from the cluster? The wire has 4 volts KOEO. Is the circuit protected because it seems even when I scope it I get nothing.Just connected it this morning on the Table
So I just looked at your manual again and I am very confused about what pin to use. You have a pin for "EXT Speedo" but in the manual it says use pin D47 as far as I can tell, but then my Tacho output is on D37?
Last update of the night....so D37 should get wired to the white wire on pin 5 behind the cluster. I still have to mess with the number but I am pretty sure 15 will be too low of a number for me. I will update tomorrow for people who are putting this amazing controller into a 300SDL in case the wiring is different for other cars.
I did figure it out or at least am making progress. I had to switch outputs out of the box because I was confused and had it on the wrong one. So right now I can get it to work but the gauge jumps with a rhythm up and down. I can get the speed to work but its constantly oscillating up and down 5 mph as I am driving. I can move the tacho number up and the oscillations go away but then the speedo is ready way high. Dont worry I am not frustrated at all just making slow progress. I am sure we will figure it out soon. Your controller works so great out of the box I am just amazed! I did try the "1" setting and even then it goes to around 80 km h but its oscillating from 70-80 km h
(02-08-2015, 04:38 PM)MAMG Hi!
i am curious after reading a little bit of this controller if it also fits on a w210 e300 turbodiesel without any problems and faults. i want to make my turbodiesel quicker with bigger ip and turbo.
thanks
- Janko
(02-08-2015, 04:38 PM)MAMG Hi!
i am curious after reading a little bit of this controller if it also fits on a w210 e300 turbodiesel without any problems and faults. i want to make my turbodiesel quicker with bigger ip and turbo.
thanks
- Janko
(02-09-2015, 03:20 PM)olefejer[quote pid='70158' dateline='1423513224'](02-08-2015, 04:38 PM)MAMG Hi!
i am curious after reading a little bit of this controller if it also fits on a w210 e300 turbodiesel without any problems and faults. i want to make my turbodiesel quicker with bigger ip and turbo.
thanks
- Janko
Hi
It would not work, if you only change the Gearbox controller, as the engine would go in to limp home mode.
But ok if you change to OM603 injection pump, engine and gearbox would then run.
BUT. there is more problem to solve. as the W210 has a special way of starting the engine, if you just touch the starter it would run until the engine starts. "almost like this :-)"
ABS would still work, but regarding ESP i am not sure.
Another way better way for this car
If you know some experts that can change this car to manual transmission in MB STAR program
Then you can keep the electronic IP, and have bigger elements in that. (mapping has to be done)
and mount this controller to handle the Gearbox.
(02-09-2015, 03:20 PM)olefejer[quote pid='70158' dateline='1423513224'](02-08-2015, 04:38 PM)MAMG Hi!
i am curious after reading a little bit of this controller if it also fits on a w210 e300 turbodiesel without any problems and faults. i want to make my turbodiesel quicker with bigger ip and turbo.
thanks
- Janko
Hi
It would not work, if you only change the Gearbox controller, as the engine would go in to limp home mode.
But ok if you change to OM603 injection pump, engine and gearbox would then run.
BUT. there is more problem to solve. as the W210 has a special way of starting the engine, if you just touch the starter it would run until the engine starts. "almost like this :-)"
ABS would still work, but regarding ESP i am not sure.
Another way better way for this car
If you know some experts that can change this car to manual transmission in MB STAR program
Then you can keep the electronic IP, and have bigger elements in that. (mapping has to be done)
and mount this controller to handle the Gearbox.
Hi
I think you should start a new tread about the, W210 engine tuning, / Remap
There are many expert in this forum, who know about that i think
(03-06-2015, 10:10 AM)DanielK If I were to build an arcade-style H-Gate shifter, could the code be adapted for direct gear select?Hi
(03-06-2015, 10:10 AM)DanielK If I were to build an arcade-style H-Gate shifter, could the code be adapted for direct gear select?Hi
(03-25-2015, 06:24 PM)DanielK How about a manual-style shifter that accomplishes P-R-N-D and has individual selections for each gear? I imagine the modification to the code would be pretty straight forward. Sure, sequential makes more sense, but gated shifters are so much fun.
(03-25-2015, 06:24 PM)DanielK How about a manual-style shifter that accomplishes P-R-N-D and has individual selections for each gear? I imagine the modification to the code would be pretty straight forward. Sure, sequential makes more sense, but gated shifters are so much fun.
The layout i had in mind has PRND in line. I wasn't away it couldn't be skipped. I mean, that could be coded to sequentially shift. 1st and Drive would be the same position, allowing you to push a button for automatic mode.
P
R 2 4
N
D 3 5
Obviously, I'm not thinking this as a performance upgrade, merely a fun novelty to have.
That is a hard ware issue more than a code issue. That design would require the shifter lever in your hand to disengaged from the lower linkage and then move from each position with just electronic switches. This would be similar to what the old PRND4321 shifters did but a much more difficult piece of hardware. They slid over for 4th gear which was an electronic signal but also that disengaged the lever from the lower linkage. The detents you feel for each position is a spring loaded ball in a cup. What happens electronically is the switches are a group of 4 digital values that change combination for each position. So 1,3,4 for P 123 for R 234 for N and so on. What you could do in your design is have a switch position for each that is simply a trigger for the direction of shifter travel. You could have a switch in each gear 1,2,3,4,5 and then when moving the shifter from 1st to 2nd it would be in the code to know to upshift. And when moving from a high to low gear to downshift.
This could not cost more than a few thousand dollars to prototype.
(05-25-2015, 05:23 AM)swecias So where to buy 722.6 gearbox controler ?
idea: controll of Mercedes variable speed fan (PWM controlled). They can move a lot or air and are cheap to get :-) I like variable speed electric fan better than on/off fans... And viscous fan is still depending on engine RPM (which you do not have in stop & go traffic where things get hot). Just an idea :-)
I want to control my HE351VE and got it all wired up but when I go to set can bus I dont have a "Holset 1" or "Holeset 2" Option? I have no or when I try to move it to another option I get "F" Does this maybe mean fail because I dont have my EGP wired up to the box yet? BTW I have been using this box on my daily driver for over 6 months now and it is amazing. It was such a great investment and cant wait to get it working with my turbo!
(06-28-2015, 04:09 PM)TurboTim I want to control my HE351VE and got it all wired up but when I go to set can bus I dont have a "Holset 1" or "Holeset 2" Option? I have no or when I try to move it to another option I get "F" Does this maybe mean fail because I dont have my EGP wired up to the box yet? BTW I have been using this box on my daily driver for over 6 months now and it is amazing. It was such a great investment and cant wait to get it working with my turbo!
(06-28-2015, 04:09 PM)TurboTim I want to control my HE351VE and got it all wired up but when I go to set can bus I dont have a "Holset 1" or "Holeset 2" Option? I have no or when I try to move it to another option I get "F" Does this maybe mean fail because I dont have my EGP wired up to the box yet? BTW I have been using this box on my daily driver for over 6 months now and it is amazing. It was such a great investment and cant wait to get it working with my turbo!
Does anyone know a good way to calculate shift speeds if you want to say have the trans shift at 7k rpm. It seems I would need to know the original tire size to figure out all the calculations. Tachometer only goes to 6k so its not something I can do through trial and error.
(06-29-2015, 09:08 PM)TurboTim Does anyone know a good way to calculate shift speeds if you want to say have the trans shift at 7k rpm. It seems I would need to know the original tire size to figure out all the calculations. Tachometer only goes to 6k so its not something I can do through trial and error.
(06-29-2015, 09:08 PM)TurboTim Does anyone know a good way to calculate shift speeds if you want to say have the trans shift at 7k rpm. It seems I would need to know the original tire size to figure out all the calculations. Tachometer only goes to 6k so its not something I can do through trial and error.
Just an add to what Ole said, and I assume it is the same with his controller, that the set rpm is when the solenoids are activated. So you need to know the time it takes to start to pull the shift down. For instance it may be .5 seconds to fill the clutch and start to pull down the rpm. Depending on your acceleration speed during this time you would adjust for this. So say in 1st gear you are accelerating at 1000rpm per second. With the .5 second scenario you would target your wot rpm shift point at 500 rpm below your target rpm. In 2nd you will be accelerating slower but you would have potentially a slower or faster fill for the different clutch. So again log the rpm acceleration and dial in from there. I do not know if this controller has logging but this is the easiest way to do this. Start well shy of your target rpm and then log and then adjust appropriately. You then may have to make some very small changes for the fact that you are at a different rpm/torque value and close the gap.
(07-01-2015, 01:08 PM)Henning Bruun hi! can i use a 722.6 transmission in a w123 with an OM617 enigne?
(07-01-2015, 01:08 PM)Henning Bruun hi! can i use a 722.6 transmission in a w123 with an OM617 enigne?
Hi,
I have a MB 320CDI 2004 model with the 722.626 gearbox.
Can I use this controller on the car without getting problem and error messages on the rest of the system.
(Can I remove the standard controller for the one you make without getting problems with ESP, Antispinn, etc.)
If so, I would really like to order one a.s.a.p
I had the car at Carlsson in Germany and I now have 683NM and 246HP @ the wheel..
But the standard shifting is going to far up in RPM and I loose momentum.
My power band is @ much lower RPM than a standard.
My hope is to be able to gear earlier to use the Torque of the engine and get faster acceleration.
Best regards
Niklas
Northern Norway
(07-17-2015, 08:37 AM)Druk ^. No. The engine and gearbox ECU's communicate with each other via the canbus. It wont work with a standalone.
Ole, i had install your device, and have some questions.
i had box 5wa580 at om603 wiht another bellhousing. this box have more friction disks, because of this it need low pressure to manage shifting gears. so I had have change parameters "general firmness" - line adjust from "-2" to "0" or higher, and gears shifting 1-2-3 and suddenly first again when speed around 60 km/h and speedometer jump to 100-120 even the car was stopped. it need to restart controller. the same case happened if i put selector from "D" to "N" and back again on running car - the same magic to speedo and inappropriate behavior of the box.
Is it pwm output problem? or bug
and the same promblem if i try to make downshifting 2-1 more smooth. I change coeff firm/load 2-1 to "-6" or lower, and when the car was stopped, no gear is on.
(08-14-2015, 04:27 AM)jupel Ole, i had install your device, and have some questions.
i had box 5wa580 at om603 wiht another bellhousing. this box have more friction disks, because of this it need low pressure to manage shifting gears. so I had have change parameters "general firmness" - line adjust from "-2" to "0" or higher, and gears shifting 1-2-3 and suddenly first again when speed around 60 km/h and speedometer jump to 100-120 even the car was stopped. it need to restart controller. the same case happened if i put selector from "D" to "N" and back again on running car - the same magic to speedo and inappropriate behavior of the box.
Is it pwm output problem? or bug
and the same promblem if i try to make downshifting 2-1 more smooth. I change coeff firm/load 2-1 to "-6" or lower, and when the car was stopped, no gear is on.
(08-14-2015, 04:27 AM)jupel Ole, i had install your device, and have some questions.
i had box 5wa580 at om603 wiht another bellhousing. this box have more friction disks, because of this it need low pressure to manage shifting gears. so I had have change parameters "general firmness" - line adjust from "-2" to "0" or higher, and gears shifting 1-2-3 and suddenly first again when speed around 60 km/h and speedometer jump to 100-120 even the car was stopped. it need to restart controller. the same case happened if i put selector from "D" to "N" and back again on running car - the same magic to speedo and inappropriate behavior of the box.
Is it pwm output problem? or bug
and the same promblem if i try to make downshifting 2-1 more smooth. I change coeff firm/load 2-1 to "-6" or lower, and when the car was stopped, no gear is on.
(08-14-2015, 07:40 AM)olefejer You should newer move the Gear Lever from D to N, while driving. you have to be below 10 km/h, otherwise it would go in to Fail Mode and, write on the Screen "N at Speed", and Speed is fixed at 200, and all shifting are locked.
(08-14-2015, 07:40 AM)olefejer You should newer move the Gear Lever from D to N, while driving. you have to be below 10 km/h, otherwise it would go in to Fail Mode and, write on the Screen "N at Speed", and Speed is fixed at 200, and all shifting are locked.
Yes correct it is a LOGIC problem,
As when the car is stationary, the N -> D is handlet one way, even the 3-4 shift valve is used to give smoother "Garage Shift",
Also a check regarding if it is, first or Second gear we have first time in "D" if second gear it is corrected. to first.
Also as the Controller can run width no external speed sensor it is Essential that i know what gear we are in, to calculate speed correct. if you move to N i am lost.
Well anything can be fixed it is but it would be a rather big effort width not that big of an advantage.
But ok i can follow you if someone is used to push in N when running down hill i can see it is irritating
I don't understand why it is needed to shift N when driving, I also noticed that problem on dyno when I switched to N after full throttle. I just restarted engine after every pull. I've tried to put D-N-D at 100kph with 722.3 and it shifted back to D but it started from 2nd gear and engine rpm went up so with 722.3 you can switch D-N-D only when driving slow.