Front Coil Spring Removal
Front Coil Spring Removal
http://www.amazon.com/Telescopic-Spring-...B00G1RXGIO
And I cannot figure out how this is supposed to work. I know, small disk opening on the bottom of the spring and large opening at the top. Insert compressor, aka binding tool from hell, and turn 60 degrees to lock it in. Then turn tool and it will compress. Well it does compress, as it drives the threaded rod right into the lower control arm and binds solid.
Am I doing something wrong?!
Very frustrating!
So I bought new spring pads and a coil spring compressor for my '85 W123:
http://www.amazon.com/Telescopic-Spring-...B00G1RXGIO
And I cannot figure out how this is supposed to work. I know, small disk opening on the bottom of the spring and large opening at the top. Insert compressor, aka binding tool from hell, and turn 60 degrees to lock it in. Then turn tool and it will compress. Well it does compress, as it drives the threaded rod right into the lower control arm and binds solid.
Am I doing something wrong?!
Very frustrating!
I've used my dozens of times. Great tool, but it can be fussy to set up.
raysorenson
07-01-2014, 08:43 AM #2Without pics, it can be hard to judge what you're talking about. Would compressing the spring by raising the LCA help? Like putting the tire on the ground or a jack under the LCA.
I've used my dozens of times. Great tool, but it can be fussy to set up.
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
07-01-2014, 10:52 AM #4You have to be very careful how you place the plates, they have to be far enough apart to compress the spring enough. On mine before I cut them I had to pry (not very hard mind you) them out with a shovel. Had the same problem with the center part hitting the spring perch.
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
(07-01-2014, 11:30 AM)TKMad I'm thinking that a spacer on the upper disk would work, as well as cutting an inch off the threaded rod.
Basically the tool is just too long for the W123 springs.
I'd go with the spacer before permaltering a $$ tool. I'd also tether that spring to structural before going at it with a shovel!:eek: It don't have to knock ya upside da head or in the shins to be costly. Just my luck, I'd have some brand new shiny sparkly high dollar-ee doodad I foolishly set down near by and presto chango, next thing I know, I gotta front row seat to witness its destruction! Neato, oh no ):
MBZ123
(07-01-2014, 11:30 AM)TKMad I'm thinking that a spacer on the upper disk would work, as well as cutting an inch off the threaded rod.
Basically the tool is just too long for the W123 springs.
I'd go with the spacer before permaltering a $$ tool. I'd also tether that spring to structural before going at it with a shovel!:eek: It don't have to knock ya upside da head or in the shins to be costly. Just my luck, I'd have some brand new shiny sparkly high dollar-ee doodad I foolishly set down near by and presto chango, next thing I know, I gotta front row seat to witness its destruction! Neato, oh no ):
MBZ123
I got that thing and it worked 4 me. telescoping part was had fit through hole in top though. i put the lower part 2 or three up from the bottom, and top as high as possible. i also had the car in the air on that corner and the upper ball joint disconnect from the hub.
W123 chassis needs the top hole enlarged a bit for the aftermarket spring compressors. This should be well known by now. Only the original KLANN tool fits (but has an enormous price tag). Smal price to pay for your health.
For STRONG springs, like used on - the Turbodiesel - may require to unbolt the shock absorber (AFTER the spring has been fully compressed!!) to gain more room for removal. The shock acts as rebound buffer and limits negative suspension travel.
Strong (=long) springs with 3 dot spring pads can be very troublesome. But usually undoing the shock solves that problem as you can push down the a-arm a bit.
Be carefull!
DiseaselWeasel
09-09-2014, 03:16 AM #8Christ.....
W123 chassis needs the top hole enlarged a bit for the aftermarket spring compressors. This should be well known by now. Only the original KLANN tool fits (but has an enormous price tag). Smal price to pay for your health.
For STRONG springs, like used on - the Turbodiesel - may require to unbolt the shock absorber (AFTER the spring has been fully compressed!!) to gain more room for removal. The shock acts as rebound buffer and limits negative suspension travel.
Strong (=long) springs with 3 dot spring pads can be very troublesome. But usually undoing the shock solves that problem as you can push down the a-arm a bit.
Be carefull!
(09-09-2014, 05:02 PM)hooblah What's a spring compressor?
Do it like a man! Place a jack under the lower arm, remove the bolts and drop it down slowly.
Austincarnut
09-09-2014, 08:55 PM #10what he said
(09-09-2014, 05:02 PM)hooblah What's a spring compressor?
Do it like a man! Place a jack under the lower arm, remove the bolts and drop it down slowly.
1 Guest(s)
1 Guest(s)