help me figure out 123 chassis remote door locks
help me figure out 123 chassis remote door locks
Ive bought an 85 wagon that has a key fob and a fob activated remote door lock setup.
This system does not currently work at all, and additionally, I can't turn the factory key in the door either, but the key is original and the locks are supposedly original. The PO said the keys did work at one point, but he hasn't put the key in the door in forever with the remote deal, which was working as recently as last year I think.
Im trying to figure out how this is arranged via the vacuum setup. Has anyone installed a remote key for a 123 chassis and have any insight? I have no idea how this works, or what could be wrong, but I want to get it working again, as that would be pretty useful
factory key with the fob-
There was a post a few years ago on peachparts about it. He rigged mechanical actuators to work with the vac system. Sounds like yours might be in the same boat, time to pull the door panels!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
first things first:
Change the batteries in the fob
Find the receiver box in the car and make sure it's getting power(If I did it I'd put that under the driver's kick panel)
it goes fob->receiver box (hot all the time)->[actuators in the doors] OR [vacuum switches for each door (highly unlikely)]
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Ive read that its popular to hook it in to the trunk lock actuator the electric one will pull on the rod to the vacuum one. thus locking or unlocking the car just like you had used a key
(09-24-2013, 01:34 PM)winmutt There was a post a few years ago on peachparts about it. He rigged mechanical actuators to work with the vac system. Sounds like yours might be in the same boat, time to pull the door panels!
(09-24-2013, 01:34 PM)winmutt There was a post a few years ago on peachparts about it. He rigged mechanical actuators to work with the vac system. Sounds like yours might be in the same boat, time to pull the door panels!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
These cheap bastards are all over eb*y, they're great for low torque applications. Say, to move a light aluminum panel out of sight
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
gonna change the key fob batteries first. Lights are lighting, but that means jack.
This is behind the steering wheel, its a light and button. Not sure what the button can do. Seems like this is more an alarm system as well? Not sure
Here is whats behind the panel-
behind that rats nest is what looks like the receiver
On the opposite side are a pair of relays, to flash the parking lights maybe?
The door actuater is here, the door install looks decent. The wiring is super sloppy though. Classic alarm and stereo store install IMO-
Does this thing have a microcontroller?
if so I would look at that. If the microcontroller dosnt work, then the rest of the equipment cannot receive instructions on what to do.
(09-24-2013, 03:15 PM)Purplecomputer Does this thing have a microcontroller?
if so I would look at that. If the microcontroller dosnt work, then the rest of the equipment cannot receive instructions on what to do.
(09-24-2013, 03:15 PM)Purplecomputer Does this thing have a microcontroller?
if so I would look at that. If the microcontroller dosnt work, then the rest of the equipment cannot receive instructions on what to do.
You can just see the control box in the second of the rats-nest pics, the black box with the white multi-plug. Usually there are two feeds for these...one switched by the ignition and one permanent live which is usually fused. Check this fuse first. It's probably one of those plastic in-line things. edit.. in the first rat-nest pic there are two blade fuses visible under the blue taped-up thing. One green and one red...that might be them.
The relays might be connected to an immobiliser circuit. ie the signals from the control box immobiliser pass through the relays to trigger a larger current than the control can cope with..eg fuel pump???
The red lamp is likely the 'on' lamp for the alarm and the push button might be alarm over-ride or possibly a 'panic button' although that's conjecture.
I have the same electric solenoids in the doors of my 107 and I fed the wires to them down the redundant vacuum pipes from the A pillars. Protect and hide in one easy action.
This is insane. The exact same set up was in my wagon. Same fob, same actuator, and didn't work when I took delivery of the car. The actuator did in fact work when 12v was applied, but made no movements while in the car.