Gathering parts for the conversion...
Gathering parts for the conversion...
The time is almost nigh for my 190d to receive its very own 606. But I have a huge parts list which must be acquired first.
So question 1:
Ill be using the existing 5 speed manual box, but im unsure of where I can get a performance clutch for it? I dont fancy making a new flywheel to accept a different clutch kit, so im left with a 602 flywheel and a standard clutch which will most likely be burnt out within 500 miles
I did have an idea of having the friction disc relined with a different material, but that would be useless without having a pressure plate to match. Is it possible to get a custom setup? What sort of price would I be looking at? Im guessing its going to be expensive, so that's my last option if I cant find anything off the shelf.
Question 2:
How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?
Question 3:
Can I get rid of the lift pump altogether and fit an inline pump by the tank? Is this a wise move?
What should I do about the fuel lines, leave them standard or upgrade to something else?
Question 4:
Will this conversion drop straight in with 603 mounts or will there be a lot of fucking about to do? I want to try and get it done within a week, so im trying to get every part I need first to save dicking about and waiting for parts to arrive.
Question 5:
Can you think of anything ive forgotten, or any tips/advice?
Thanks guys!
(08-12-2013, 06:01 PM)hooblah The time is almost nigh for my 190d to receive its very own 606. But I have a huge parts list which must be acquired first.
So question 1:
Ill be using the existing 5 speed manual box, but im unsure of where I can get a performance clutch for it? I dont fancy making a new flywheel to accept a different clutch kit, so im left with a 602 flywheel and a standard clutch which will most likely be burnt out within 500 miles
I did have an idea of having the friction disc relined with a different material, but that would be useless without having a pressure plate to match. Is it possible to get a custom setup? What sort of price would I be looking at? Im guessing its going to be expensive, so that's my last option if I cant find anything off the shelf.
You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.
Question 2:
How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?
Remove vacuum pump, unscrew large bolt, remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
Question 3:
Can I get rid of the lift pump altogether and fit an inline pump by the tank? Is this a wise move?
What should I do about the fuel lines, leave them standard or upgrade to something else?
Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.
Question 4:
Will this conversion drop straight in with 603 mounts or will there be a lot of fucking about to do? I want to try and get it done within a week, so im trying to get every part I need first to save dicking about and waiting for parts to arrive.
[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?
Question 5:
Can you think of anything ive forgotten, or any tips/advice?
[/i]
Thanks guys!
(08-12-2013, 06:01 PM)hooblah The time is almost nigh for my 190d to receive its very own 606. But I have a huge parts list which must be acquired first.
So question 1:
Ill be using the existing 5 speed manual box, but im unsure of where I can get a performance clutch for it? I dont fancy making a new flywheel to accept a different clutch kit, so im left with a 602 flywheel and a standard clutch which will most likely be burnt out within 500 miles
I did have an idea of having the friction disc relined with a different material, but that would be useless without having a pressure plate to match. Is it possible to get a custom setup? What sort of price would I be looking at? Im guessing its going to be expensive, so that's my last option if I cant find anything off the shelf.
You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.
Question 2:
How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?
Remove vacuum pump, unscrew large bolt, remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
Question 3:
Can I get rid of the lift pump altogether and fit an inline pump by the tank? Is this a wise move?
What should I do about the fuel lines, leave them standard or upgrade to something else?
Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.
Question 4:
Will this conversion drop straight in with 603 mounts or will there be a lot of fucking about to do? I want to try and get it done within a week, so im trying to get every part I need first to save dicking about and waiting for parts to arrive.
[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?
Question 5:
Can you think of anything ive forgotten, or any tips/advice?
[/i]
Thanks guys!
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:
How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?
Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:
How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?
Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.
(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:
How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?
Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
Sorry,,, added a few comments after just doing my own.
good points made
.
(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:
How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?
Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
Sorry,,, added a few comments after just doing my own.
good points made
.
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport So question 1:
You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.
In what way will the fulcrum point be changed? And how cheap are we talking?
Question 3:
Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.
Whats the reason for using a 300E fuelling setup? And why 3 bar? Can I use a pump that operates at 3 bar or less, and do away with the regulator?
Question 4:
[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?
Ive head a lot of conflicting info. Some say use om603, some say 602. Is there any way of finding out the dimensions of different mounts, other than physically buying them and measuring?
(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:
Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?
(08-13-2013, 05:11 PM)Mark_M Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.
Cheers mate! Do you know roughly how much they charge for this? Ive seen some uprated clutches on ebay from companies such as panther and spec, they charge between £150-300 depending on which kit you go for.
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport So question 1:
You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.
In what way will the fulcrum point be changed? And how cheap are we talking?
Question 3:
Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.
Whats the reason for using a 300E fuelling setup? And why 3 bar? Can I use a pump that operates at 3 bar or less, and do away with the regulator?
Question 4:
[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?
Ive head a lot of conflicting info. Some say use om603, some say 602. Is there any way of finding out the dimensions of different mounts, other than physically buying them and measuring?
(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:
Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?
(08-13-2013, 05:11 PM)Mark_M Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.
Cheers mate! Do you know roughly how much they charge for this? Ive seen some uprated clutches on ebay from companies such as panther and spec, they charge between £150-300 depending on which kit you go for.
(08-15-2013, 04:38 AM)hooblah(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport So question 1:
You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.
In what way will the fulcrum point be changed? And how cheap are we talking?
The company i use here (clutchnet) will make the fulcrum point higher effectively adding to the pressure plates force upon the disc. To rebuild and modify my pressure plate the cost was $180-200
Question 3:
Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.
Whats the reason for using a 300E fuelling setup? And why 3 bar? Can I use a pump that operates at 3 bar or less, and do away with the regulator?
Well the fuel tank stainer outlet is 18mm vs the 10mm for the diesel, and sense all the parts are there you can get all OEM hoses, brackets ect and make a nice clean fit that is reliable. You do not need 3bar unless your going the superpump route. Any Bosch external pump will do. The outlet valve in the IP will regulate the inlet pressure to 1bar
Question 4:
[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?
Ive head a lot of conflicting info. Some say use om603, some say 602. Is there any way of finding out the dimensions of different mounts, other than physically buying them and measuring?
Ill look on EPC later today, maybe there is some info there.
(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:
Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?
(08-13-2013, 05:11 PM)Mark_M Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.
Cheers mate! Do you know roughly how much they charge for this? Ive seen some uprated clutches on ebay from companies such as panther and spec, they charge between £150-300 depending on which kit you go for.
(08-15-2013, 04:38 AM)hooblah(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport So question 1:
You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.
In what way will the fulcrum point be changed? And how cheap are we talking?
The company i use here (clutchnet) will make the fulcrum point higher effectively adding to the pressure plates force upon the disc. To rebuild and modify my pressure plate the cost was $180-200
Question 3:
Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.
Whats the reason for using a 300E fuelling setup? And why 3 bar? Can I use a pump that operates at 3 bar or less, and do away with the regulator?
Well the fuel tank stainer outlet is 18mm vs the 10mm for the diesel, and sense all the parts are there you can get all OEM hoses, brackets ect and make a nice clean fit that is reliable. You do not need 3bar unless your going the superpump route. Any Bosch external pump will do. The outlet valve in the IP will regulate the inlet pressure to 1bar
Question 4:
[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?
Ive head a lot of conflicting info. Some say use om603, some say 602. Is there any way of finding out the dimensions of different mounts, other than physically buying them and measuring?
Ill look on EPC later today, maybe there is some info there.
(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:
Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.
What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?
(08-13-2013, 05:11 PM)Mark_M Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.
Cheers mate! Do you know roughly how much they charge for this? Ive seen some uprated clutches on ebay from companies such as panther and spec, they charge between £150-300 depending on which kit you go for.
Does anyone know if theres any other clutches that will fit using the standard 5 speed manual 190d gearbox? (I dont know the gearbox code sorry)
How much power can this gearbox cope with? Will the rest of the drivetrain be able to cope?
Cheers guys!
(08-15-2013, 04:38 AM)hooblah What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?
(08-15-2013, 04:38 AM)hooblah What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?
(08-20-2013, 07:12 AM)hooblah Hey thanks guys!The mounts are the same whether it's a M103/M104 or om602/om601. The engine brackets are different however. The engine mounts all sub to a 1242402217
Druk I was thinking of getting rid if the tank strainer altogether and running an in-line ore filter just so I dont have to deal with tje strainer blocking up.
Duncan did you find out about the mounts on the epc?
(08-20-2013, 07:12 AM)hooblah Hey thanks guys!The mounts are the same whether it's a M103/M104 or om602/om601. The engine brackets are different however. The engine mounts all sub to a 1242402217
Druk I was thinking of getting rid if the tank strainer altogether and running an in-line ore filter just so I dont have to deal with tje strainer blocking up.
Duncan did you find out about the mounts on the epc?
I wouldn't completely eliminate the tank strainer. Instead, keep the strainer frame and wrap it with a stainless steel mesh with a hole size just smaller than any part of the tubing leading to your (new) coarse fuel filter. Designing it this way minimizes the chance of either the strainer or the plumbing getting clogged. The open SS mesh will also do a better job of chopping up gunk that might grow in the tank.
So i've compiled a basic list of the things i'll be needing to get the car running with an om606. Can anyone think of anything i've missed out?
OM606.962
OM603 IP
OM606 NA throttle linkage
OM611 CDI sprinter single mass flywheel conversion
C230 kompressor/CDI (716.640) gearbox + shifter + linkage + prop + crossmember + starter motor
Intercooler
Is it worth removing the viscous fan and fitting an electric slimline one instead?
I’m planning on using a w210 E300TD radiator as its really thin, then used a slim line fan as the intercooler I have bought is 3” thick and I’m running outa room.
I’m also pondering what clutch I’m going to use – what are you going to do? – I don’t think the sprinter will hold anything more than a moderate power increase…
Im in two minds about going for a superpump now or later.
If I max out the 603 IP for now I should be at ~175bhp which the clutch should be able to hold.
I guess id have the clutch modified to hold more power if I need it. Druk's the man to ask really.
The problem im going to face when fitting a larger turbo is the clearance between the downpipe and steering box, or lack of. HughF is converting his to steering rack because of this and its a bit of a job which id like to avoid if possible. Maybe I can fit an oval pipe in the gap, the only way ill be able to tell is once the engine's in.
(09-02-2013, 03:53 AM)maxypriest I’m also pondering what clutch I’m going to use – what are you going to do? – I don’t think the sprinter will hold anything more than a moderate power increase…
the general rule of thumb is that the more cylinders you have the lighter you can go. Apparently not always true as far as (mercedes) diesels are concerned. The flywheels for the 617 are much heavier than for the 616. For the OM60x series it seems to be less of an issue as I don't have any of the undesireable off idle charachteristics with my 602 flwheel behind the 603 that I did with the 616 one behind the 617...
If you try it, I'd say try to approach the problem conservatively. Theres some 10lb difference between the 616 and 617 wheels, I'm not sure where a good starting point would be, but 1-2lbs is probably a good idea...though you may end up closer to the 10lb mark when alls said and done...just a little more difficult/expensive to add mass back...
(09-02-2013, 03:53 AM)maxypriest I’m also pondering what clutch I’m going to use – what are you going to do? – I don’t think the sprinter will hold anything more than a moderate power increase…