STD Maintenance General Coolant flush procedure?

Coolant flush procedure?

Coolant flush procedure?

 
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sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
12-09-2011, 05:39 AM #1
Since my upper radiator hose is starting to get awfully bulgy/bubbly and in need of replacement, and the engine also no longer reaches more than about 65*C under any driving conditions, I figure its time to replace the hose and probably the thermostat. Since I'll be doing the other stuff this sounds like the perfect time/excuse for a coolant flush to clean all the garbage that I am sure is in the system out, and I was just wondering if there is any recommended way of going about it. I remember reading somewhere about flushing with citric acid or something similar, is this recommended?

Thanks in advance folks!

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
12-09-2011, 05:39 AM #1

Since my upper radiator hose is starting to get awfully bulgy/bubbly and in need of replacement, and the engine also no longer reaches more than about 65*C under any driving conditions, I figure its time to replace the hose and probably the thermostat. Since I'll be doing the other stuff this sounds like the perfect time/excuse for a coolant flush to clean all the garbage that I am sure is in the system out, and I was just wondering if there is any recommended way of going about it. I remember reading somewhere about flushing with citric acid or something similar, is this recommended?

Thanks in advance folks!


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Greazzer
Superturbo

1,278
12-09-2011, 07:34 AM #2
I did the following and I was very happy. I did a "flush" with just water to really clean it out. I removed the thermostat first. Then, I put in one gallon of Evaporust and one gallon+ of water and drove it around for a few days. I am super impressed with Evaporust. It really does evaporate rust. Drain after a few days, run a bunch of water thru it. If you can, get the lower drain plug to the right of the starter out while you do you flush, before and after Evaporust. Evaporust, if you buy by the gallon is about $25. If you buy in bulk (5 gallon bucket), with coupon, then it's slightly over $14 a gallon. Then, refill with antifreeze and water. Not sure about the debate on real MB or generaic antifreeze or not. The generic stuff at NAPA is $11.99 a gallon (if they have it in stock). You can get a rough feel as to how funky your system was by the color of the Evaporust. It comes out amber from the bottle new and once it is black, it is spent. So, that is your range.

Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020

visit:  www.dieselfuelinjector.guru

Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.

RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982.  Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Greazzer
12-09-2011, 07:34 AM #2

I did the following and I was very happy. I did a "flush" with just water to really clean it out. I removed the thermostat first. Then, I put in one gallon of Evaporust and one gallon+ of water and drove it around for a few days. I am super impressed with Evaporust. It really does evaporate rust. Drain after a few days, run a bunch of water thru it. If you can, get the lower drain plug to the right of the starter out while you do you flush, before and after Evaporust. Evaporust, if you buy by the gallon is about $25. If you buy in bulk (5 gallon bucket), with coupon, then it's slightly over $14 a gallon. Then, refill with antifreeze and water. Not sure about the debate on real MB or generaic antifreeze or not. The generic stuff at NAPA is $11.99 a gallon (if they have it in stock). You can get a rough feel as to how funky your system was by the color of the Evaporust. It comes out amber from the bottle new and once it is black, it is spent. So, that is your range.


Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020

visit:  www.dieselfuelinjector.guru

Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.

RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982.  Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
12-09-2011, 03:54 PM #3
Thats pretty much what I was thinking about doing, removing thermostat, removing the drain plug on the block, and then flushing with water until it comes out clear. After that fill with water and citric acid or evaporust or something similar and run it for a while, then drain again and flush with water until it comes out clear, and then fill with distilled water/antifreeze mix.

Im also thinking about getting a block heater, and was wondering what works best for people, since I've seen some that screw into the block, oil pan heaters, and coolant type heaters (like on dieselgiant.com) and I dont really want to get one to find out its crap and have to get another type a couple months down the road

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
12-09-2011, 03:54 PM #3

Thats pretty much what I was thinking about doing, removing thermostat, removing the drain plug on the block, and then flushing with water until it comes out clear. After that fill with water and citric acid or evaporust or something similar and run it for a while, then drain again and flush with water until it comes out clear, and then fill with distilled water/antifreeze mix.

Im also thinking about getting a block heater, and was wondering what works best for people, since I've seen some that screw into the block, oil pan heaters, and coolant type heaters (like on dieselgiant.com) and I dont really want to get one to find out its crap and have to get another type a couple months down the road


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
12-09-2011, 04:06 PM #4
Here is the most thorough way to do it. http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes_citrus_flush.htm

I said fuck all that and just flushed with water!

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...3#pid16893


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
12-09-2011, 04:06 PM #4

Here is the most thorough way to do it. http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes_citrus_flush.htm

I said fuck all that and just flushed with water!

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...3#pid16893



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
12-09-2011, 04:22 PM #5
Yeah I fount that link about 5 minutes after posting here, it seems a little extreme to disconnect every hose and flush and backflush all of them. If I cant find any citric acid Im just gonna remove thermostat, drain radiator and block and flush until clear then refill with antifreeze/water

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
12-09-2011, 04:22 PM #5

Yeah I fount that link about 5 minutes after posting here, it seems a little extreme to disconnect every hose and flush and backflush all of them. If I cant find any citric acid Im just gonna remove thermostat, drain radiator and block and flush until clear then refill with antifreeze/water


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Greazzer
Superturbo

1,278
12-09-2011, 06:47 PM #6
The block heater I had worked great. Once you plugged it in, you could hear it working. Sounded like water on the stove -- sort of. This is the block heater that screws into the side of the block where the drain plug is (in front of starter). I was impressed with it. Within 2 hours, that engine was pretty warm and after 8 hours the valve cover was very warm.

Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020

visit:  www.dieselfuelinjector.guru

Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.

RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982.  Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Greazzer
12-09-2011, 06:47 PM #6

The block heater I had worked great. Once you plugged it in, you could hear it working. Sounded like water on the stove -- sort of. This is the block heater that screws into the side of the block where the drain plug is (in front of starter). I was impressed with it. Within 2 hours, that engine was pretty warm and after 8 hours the valve cover was very warm.


Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020

visit:  www.dieselfuelinjector.guru

Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.

RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982.  Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
12-09-2011, 07:19 PM #7
That seems like its probably the best kind

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
12-09-2011, 07:19 PM #7

That seems like its probably the best kind


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

garage
Bush Taxi

893
12-09-2011, 08:42 PM #8
Garden hose.

1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
garage
12-09-2011, 08:42 PM #8

Garden hose.


1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...

larsalan
Superturbo

1,272
12-09-2011, 09:02 PM #9
(12-09-2011, 08:42 PM)garage Garden hose.

Bah x2. Ur the best Smile

Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
larsalan
12-09-2011, 09:02 PM #9

(12-09-2011, 08:42 PM)garage Garden hose.

Bah x2. Ur the best Smile


Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'

garage
Bush Taxi

893
12-10-2011, 12:22 PM #10
Bah humbug.

1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
garage
12-10-2011, 12:22 PM #10

Bah humbug.


1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
12-10-2011, 08:29 PM #11
just disconnect the heater house one the driver side of the block and back flush with the thermostat housing un bolted...


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
12-10-2011, 08:29 PM #11

just disconnect the heater house one the driver side of the block and back flush with the thermostat housing un bolted...



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
12-11-2011, 12:51 AM #12
Yeah Im gonna have to something with the heater hose on that side because I tee-ed into there for my fuel line heater since Im running WVO (dont hate y'all) and now I realize I wont be able to change the oil filter because there is a hose right above the top of the housing so Im gonna have to re-route it somehow. Also need to order a thermostat and gasket, manifold and turbo gaskets, oil pan and gasket, a block heater for the engine and a waterbed heater for my aux. tank haha

edit: also need to order new weather stripping for the driver door, and probably the trunk (everything in trunk gets wet when its cold and not necessarily when it rains, whats up with that) and Im probably forgetting some stuff
This post was last modified: 12-11-2011, 12:55 AM by sassparilla_kid.

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
12-11-2011, 12:51 AM #12

Yeah Im gonna have to something with the heater hose on that side because I tee-ed into there for my fuel line heater since Im running WVO (dont hate y'all) and now I realize I wont be able to change the oil filter because there is a hose right above the top of the housing so Im gonna have to re-route it somehow. Also need to order a thermostat and gasket, manifold and turbo gaskets, oil pan and gasket, a block heater for the engine and a waterbed heater for my aux. tank haha

edit: also need to order new weather stripping for the driver door, and probably the trunk (everything in trunk gets wet when its cold and not necessarily when it rains, whats up with that) and Im probably forgetting some stuff


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Hercules
GT2559V

219
12-11-2011, 06:31 PM #13
If trunk seal is good, not torn or flexed or bent over,many times the leak can come from around the rear windshield Seal. Water inters on wet or rainy days,puddles under panels,a warm day evaporation occurs,cool night condensation occurs,every thing gets wet. Also ck. drain plugs( rubber plugs with drain holes) at bottom of fenders under the side panels.Almost always plugged with dirt and other objects. Good luck.
Hercules
12-11-2011, 06:31 PM #13

If trunk seal is good, not torn or flexed or bent over,many times the leak can come from around the rear windshield Seal. Water inters on wet or rainy days,puddles under panels,a warm day evaporation occurs,cool night condensation occurs,every thing gets wet. Also ck. drain plugs( rubber plugs with drain holes) at bottom of fenders under the side panels.Almost always plugged with dirt and other objects. Good luck.

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
12-12-2011, 12:03 AM #14
Thanks Hercules! I'll have to be sure to check the seals out, and the drains as well. Im guessing part of it is the drains because I did clean one of them out and I have not had the problem again since then

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
12-12-2011, 12:03 AM #14

Thanks Hercules! I'll have to be sure to check the seals out, and the drains as well. Im guessing part of it is the drains because I did clean one of them out and I have not had the problem again since then


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

disarrae
yeah, it's a real race car!

42
12-24-2011, 11:27 PM #15
Supplementary question: today we were running the 82SD and the upper radiator hose is HOT 126* Lower hose is cold 56*. Not sure where to start, water pump fail or radiator blockage? Car did sit for 2 years unused. There is a constant coolant leak from the upper hose, even after being replaced. Any thoughts?

Dirty Little Freaks Racing
Racing diesel before diesel was cool!
disarrae
12-24-2011, 11:27 PM #15

Supplementary question: today we were running the 82SD and the upper radiator hose is HOT 126* Lower hose is cold 56*. Not sure where to start, water pump fail or radiator blockage? Car did sit for 2 years unused. There is a constant coolant leak from the upper hose, even after being replaced. Any thoughts?


Dirty Little Freaks Racing
Racing diesel before diesel was cool!

 
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