dropnosky's 1980 240D
dropnosky's 1980 240D
(08-30-2010, 09:48 PM)garage Wow rudolf, thats a killer job on the welding once again. Look very nice!
(08-30-2010, 08:45 PM)dropnosky I will mail you the 616 mainfold. (I should have done that in the first place. sorry )
That last hole does not match between the 616 and the 617, its almost like an afterthought and in a random place low.
I will volunter my 616 and NA intake for mockup if need be, so that way you dont have to mail out another piece.
Its up to rudolf i guess
(08-30-2010, 09:48 PM)garage Wow rudolf, thats a killer job on the welding once again. Look very nice!
(08-30-2010, 08:45 PM)dropnosky I will mail you the 616 mainfold. (I should have done that in the first place. sorry )
That last hole does not match between the 616 and the 617, its almost like an afterthought and in a random place low.
I will volunter my 616 and NA intake for mockup if need be, so that way you dont have to mail out another piece.
Its up to rudolf i guess
Rudolf if you do mock up a head/616 I'll donate a couple turbo exhaust manifolds and some cash for the first one!!!!
I really think there is an untapped market! name your $
NA exhaust manifold is on its way, early next week sometime, probably tuesday. Keep it and use it as a jig if you would like
I have been absorbing info from members of the board who have turbo 240s on the ALDA situation. From what it sounds like, since its a stock turbo, id probably be fine putting on a ALDA, but it seems the car will also perform well with an adjusted ADA.
I figure I will just go ahead with my plan to move all stock components onto the turbo and also include an ALDA at first, and see how it does. For removal, I have been reading this thread- http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/alda...t-919.html. I gather that to remove the ALDA, I must grab the square top part and immobilize it, then loosen the nut underneath and the ALDA will rise up out of the injection pump like the end of a bolt as you turn a nut? Is this correct? I don't have to play with the nut on top?
Correct. It takes two wrenches. Loosen the locknut, then unscrew and the whole thing pulls straight up.
You are correct on removing it just hold it still and loosen the big nut on the bottom!
The nut on top is for the mixture screw if you screw it in CW it leans out if you screw it out CCW it will richen up! just loosen the lock nut and turn the screw but do not force it past where it stops!
I usually turn them out till they stop and back in a hair and lock the nut down and check for idle smoke when warm! If it smokes bad I'll turn them back in a bit until it idles clean!
With the ALDA removed it will run full rich all the time! It has been done before and can be run that way! not recommended
It dose the same thing the ADA dose except it changes with boost mostly to limit the mixture at idle to reduce smoke!
Unfortunately my car's turbo wouldn't spool with out a lot of fuel from the start so I had to use the ADA maxed I suspect some other fuel delivery problems in the fuel system because my car has zero smoke at all!!!
(08-31-2010, 05:40 AM)dropnosky(08-30-2010, 09:48 PM)garage Wow rudolf, thats a killer job on the welding once again. Look very nice!
(08-30-2010, 08:45 PM)dropnosky I will mail you the 616 mainfold. (I should have done that in the first place. sorry )
That last hole does not match between the 616 and the 617, its almost like an afterthought and in a random place low.
I will volunter my 616 and NA intake for mockup if need be, so that way you dont have to mail out another piece.
Its up to rudolf i guess
Thats a great offer, but if its on your running daily driver, don't do it! When I took mine off, all the gaskets and bolts for exhaust broke or disintegrated requiring replacement. Im still waiting for exhaust/intake and oil pan gasket!
It would be unfortunate if the same thing happened to you doing me this favor, and you suddenly had to order parts before the car would run again. Since mine is already apart, and its only a couple days for shipping, I might as well send the one thats already out, plus Rudolf can cut it up for pieces if he needs to and not be under the gun to get yours back to you!
Thanks anyway though, sounds like you and I have the same driving style with the lead foot
(08-31-2010, 05:40 AM)dropnosky(08-30-2010, 09:48 PM)garage Wow rudolf, thats a killer job on the welding once again. Look very nice!
(08-30-2010, 08:45 PM)dropnosky I will mail you the 616 mainfold. (I should have done that in the first place. sorry )
That last hole does not match between the 616 and the 617, its almost like an afterthought and in a random place low.
I will volunter my 616 and NA intake for mockup if need be, so that way you dont have to mail out another piece.
Its up to rudolf i guess
Thats a great offer, but if its on your running daily driver, don't do it! When I took mine off, all the gaskets and bolts for exhaust broke or disintegrated requiring replacement. Im still waiting for exhaust/intake and oil pan gasket!
It would be unfortunate if the same thing happened to you doing me this favor, and you suddenly had to order parts before the car would run again. Since mine is already apart, and its only a couple days for shipping, I might as well send the one thats already out, plus Rudolf can cut it up for pieces if he needs to and not be under the gun to get yours back to you!
Thanks anyway though, sounds like you and I have the same driving style with the lead foot
(08-31-2010, 01:43 PM)willbhere4u You are correct on removing it just hold it still and loosen the big nut on the bottom!
The nut on top is for the mixture screw if you screw it in CW it leans out if you screw it out CCW it will richen up! just loosen the lock nut and turn the screw but do not force it past where it stops!
(08-31-2010, 01:43 PM)willbhere4u I usually turn them out till they stop and back in a hair and lock the nut down and check for idle smoke when warm! If it smokes bad I'll turn them back in a bit until it idles clean!
With the ALDA removed it will run full rich all the time! It has been done before and can be run that way! not recommended
It dose the same thing the ADA dose except it changes with boost mostly to limit the mixture at idle to reduce smoke!
Unfortunately my car's turbo wouldn't spool with out a lot of fuel from the start so I had to use the ADA maxed I suspect some other fuel delivery problems in the fuel system because my car has zero smoke at all!!!
(08-31-2010, 01:43 PM)willbhere4u You are correct on removing it just hold it still and loosen the big nut on the bottom!
The nut on top is for the mixture screw if you screw it in CW it leans out if you screw it out CCW it will richen up! just loosen the lock nut and turn the screw but do not force it past where it stops!
(08-31-2010, 01:43 PM)willbhere4u I usually turn them out till they stop and back in a hair and lock the nut down and check for idle smoke when warm! If it smokes bad I'll turn them back in a bit until it idles clean!
With the ALDA removed it will run full rich all the time! It has been done before and can be run that way! not recommended
It dose the same thing the ADA dose except it changes with boost mostly to limit the mixture at idle to reduce smoke!
Unfortunately my car's turbo wouldn't spool with out a lot of fuel from the start so I had to use the ADA maxed I suspect some other fuel delivery problems in the fuel system because my car has zero smoke at all!!!
Quote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!
Quote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!
(09-01-2010, 10:29 PM)Rudolf_DieselQuote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!
Did that start after we did the work on the IP?
If so then you can adjust the timing by advancing the pump - loosen the 3 bolts and move the pump away from the motor use a 2x4 to pry it over.
(09-01-2010, 10:29 PM)Rudolf_DieselQuote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!
Did that start after we did the work on the IP?
If so then you can adjust the timing by advancing the pump - loosen the 3 bolts and move the pump away from the motor use a 2x4 to pry it over.
(09-01-2010, 11:30 PM)Captain America(09-01-2010, 10:29 PM)Rudolf_DieselQuote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!
Did that start after we did the work on the IP?
If so then you can adjust the timing by advancing the pump - loosen the 3 bolts and move the pump away from the motor use a 2x4 to pry it over.
No, It is the same as before we did the work... I was just gonna post about this in my thread... Lets do it there.. Don't want to hijack.
(09-01-2010, 11:30 PM)Captain America(09-01-2010, 10:29 PM)Rudolf_DieselQuote:Whoa Whoa! can you go over that one more time? kind lost you.... Are you talking about the ALDA adjustment under the black cap or the clocking of the whole shabang on top of the IP? Mine smokes at idle and even more when sitting in gear, I hate it!
Did that start after we did the work on the IP?
If so then you can adjust the timing by advancing the pump - loosen the 3 bolts and move the pump away from the motor use a 2x4 to pry it over.
No, It is the same as before we did the work... I was just gonna post about this in my thread... Lets do it there.. Don't want to hijack.
Mine dose not have the black cap but I was referring to the 10mm nut & screw on top of the ALDA for adjustment's! If you loosen the nut and turn the screw clock wise it leans it out less smoke until boost starts!
It really docent madder witch way the ALDA unit faces it will function the same
Cool, That was my thought. Just wanted to make sure. Mine still has the black cap so I don't think it has been modified.
here are the other pics-
Intake manifold-
and the drain setup, I may have goofed here though, I put this port at the bottom of the existing hard drain assuming I would just screw in a short length of hose, BUT, I neglected the fact that it comes down pretty far inboard towards the motor in relation to the other hole I have rigged on the pan. Would work perfectly If I went straight down, maybe I will end up drilling through the upper plan to do that like Will did.
The result that I need to make an Z like connection to get over to the other port on the oil pan. Its too close, I might be able to get away with a 45 and a 90, but I may have to cut it down and do the upper part differently.
unrelated to the turbo project-
put on my winter rims with some paint and some chrome trim rings and viola!
poor mans Ronals!
As long as the car is moving above 30 mph, the wheels look almost identical to a 5 spoke black ronal with a polished edge.
In the last hour or so put the car back together in NA format to get to the PA GTG tomorrow. I had left the lower oil pan off this past week.
Im paying this guy to come mow the lawn and clean all the shit off the driveway (constant acorns, seeds, ect. based on season) and unfortunately, (stupid on my part) he used a leaf blower under the car and managed to blow a bunch of crap up into the upper pan, some acorn shells and leaves. I think I got most of it out, but if a bit of a leaf or acorn shell is small enough to get through the screen, do I have a potential disaster here?
Basically my question is are some oil passages smaller diameter than the openings in the oil pickup screen? Car is running great right now, so its probably a non issue.
I would think any thing dangerous would get caught in the pick up screen!
(09-18-2010, 09:18 PM)willbhere4u I would think any thing dangerous would get caught in the pick up screen!
(09-18-2010, 09:18 PM)willbhere4u I would think any thing dangerous would get caught in the pick up screen!
(09-18-2010, 09:40 PM)dropnosky(09-18-2010, 09:18 PM)willbhere4u I would think any thing dangerous would get caught in the pick up screen!... and did not even blow up once!
(09-18-2010, 09:40 PM)dropnosky(09-18-2010, 09:18 PM)willbhere4u I would think any thing dangerous would get caught in the pick up screen!... and did not even blow up once!
I tried the turbo injectors in my 240d turbo all it did was nail really bad something to do with the higher pop pressure affecting timing the turbo cars have 2* more timing? or something
Any progress on your turbo set up? I should take some more videos of mine running!
(09-27-2010, 08:12 PM)willbhere4u Any progress on your turbo set up? I should take some more videos of mine running!
(09-27-2010, 08:12 PM)willbhere4u Any progress on your turbo set up? I should take some more videos of mine running!
Right! I forgot about the back exhaust port. Let me know if you need a spare manifold I have 2 turbo manifolds I will donate if needed!!!!
rough weekend for the 240, may have done some damage or bent something Have to look into it further. Managed to slide out the rear on some leaves and bash into some pot holes on a highway entrance ramp. The day earlier, blew a front tire on a curvy rough road and did some swerving there also.
Control of the car feels subtly different, seems to track differently now. Front end still feels tight, but it seems to be crabbing slightly.
Thats not good!
(09-28-2010, 12:29 PM)Captain America Thats not good!
(09-28-2010, 12:29 PM)Captain America Thats not good!
damn. I was out there with a tape measure and a flashlight, its a rust related problem. Ive apparently managed to slightly twist the entire rear subframe in relation to the body of the car because the forward mounts are so weak. The side that I have not finished repairing is pulled out slightly, and the repaired side is pushed in slightly. The passenger side tire is back a little, and the driver side is forward a little.
Both the front subframe mounts were barely attached to the car, only by rust, one I reattached a little better, but when I slammed into the pothole with the passenger side in a skid, it must have pivoted a hair and pushed in on the driver side where I used some over thin metal from the fender to repair the hole.
Weighing options on what to do now. Its theoretically fixable if I make some new mounts and try and line the tires up straight with the front wheels, but will be hard to do perfectly. Despite all the rust labor thats gone into this car, it might not be worth the amount of work. The subframe itself appears perfectly fine, just the body is falling apart.
the crazy thing is I just drove 300 miles with it slightly twisted, and with the wheel cocked a hair to the right, you can compensated for the twist, but I am definitely sanding tires.
That sucks man. Sounds like you need to move to Cali and leave your rust troubles behind
(09-28-2010, 03:05 PM)Captain America That sucks man. Sounds like you need to move to Cali and leave your rust troubles behind
(09-28-2010, 03:05 PM)Captain America That sucks man. Sounds like you need to move to Cali and leave your rust troubles behind
Well I am officially bummed! I was rooting for that car to see several winters to come.
I have an idea. Since a greater ground clearance would be better for your winters up over there, maybe you can weld on some blocks at the subframe mounting points and use w126 springs to keep the geometry. Welding up some blocks would effectively fix the issue. Just thinking out loud.
.
(09-28-2010, 04:39 PM)DeliveryValve Well I am officially bummed! I was rooting for that car to see several winters to come.
I have an idea. Since a greater ground clearance would be better for your winters up over there, maybe you can weld on some blocks at the subframe mounting points and use w126 springs to keep the geometry. Welding up some blocks would effectively fix the issue. Just thinking out loud.
(09-28-2010, 04:39 PM)DeliveryValve Well I am officially bummed! I was rooting for that car to see several winters to come.
I have an idea. Since a greater ground clearance would be better for your winters up over there, maybe you can weld on some blocks at the subframe mounting points and use w126 springs to keep the geometry. Welding up some blocks would effectively fix the issue. Just thinking out loud.
(09-28-2010, 09:34 PM)dropnosky(09-28-2010, 04:39 PM)DeliveryValve Well I am officially bummed! I was rooting for that car to see several winters to come.
I have an idea. Since a greater ground clearance would be better for your winters up over there, maybe you can weld on some blocks at the subframe mounting points and use w126 springs to keep the geometry. Welding up some blocks would effectively fix the issue. Just thinking out loud.
Interesting. I will have to look into this.
(09-28-2010, 09:34 PM)dropnosky(09-28-2010, 04:39 PM)DeliveryValve Well I am officially bummed! I was rooting for that car to see several winters to come.
I have an idea. Since a greater ground clearance would be better for your winters up over there, maybe you can weld on some blocks at the subframe mounting points and use w126 springs to keep the geometry. Welding up some blocks would effectively fix the issue. Just thinking out loud.
Interesting. I will have to look into this.
1000 miles after the hit, showing steel belt on a previously 40% life left RR tire. Im sanding the heck out of that specific tire, and less so the opposite side, fuel economy has predictably dropped big time. Also, keeping my eye on the the rear flex joint to the diff, although its probably OK so far being brand new as of 4 months ago, ironically it seems there is finally a real use for the factory U-joint on the drive shaft!
I just took the 4 tires/steel rims off the 115 and loaded them into the back seat of the 240 because I will not be able to do something about this for another 1000-1500 miles. The more spare tires and rims, the better. No passenger seat means I could potentially carry another couple rims as well!
have also been looking at replacement DD vehicles. I absolutely need a reliable distance driver, and I prefer it to be another 123 because I have a "psychological disorder preventing rational thought" according to my sister.
Looking more and more like the best and most realistic solution will be to park this car, replace it for now with another one, use the body for parts, then move the drive train to something else in the future. Maybe after turboing the engine, ill move this 4cyl into the 115? Ill have to think about what would be fun.
This little event is also a good opportunity to tear down the tranny and do something about 4th gear for good.
a suitable replacement car has been found! 1984 300D. The 240 will be semi retired to parts car status for now, but the turbo project will be completed! The motor in this car is very solid, I can think of tons of fun things to do with it. Ill start driving the 84 as a DD.
the cars compared- The 300 is an interesting mint color.
hell put the turbo 240 motor in the w115!
(10-06-2010, 04:25 PM)willbhere4u hell put the turbo 240 motor in the w115!
(10-06-2010, 04:25 PM)willbhere4u hell put the turbo 240 motor in the w115!
I can look into fabbing a remote filter adapter plate if you want, shouldn't be too hard.
Helps that I'm bored out of my brain right now and looking for things to do.
(10-06-2010, 05:01 PM)300D50 I can look into fabbing a remote filter adapter plate if you want, shouldn't be to hard.
Helps that I'm bored out of my brain right now and looking for things to do.
the last 300 mile hurrah is over! (for now)
Good thing too, I think I pushed it a little bit, as I developed a bone jarring rumbling vibration in the last 100 miles of that run. Stopped 4 or five times and jacked the car up to make sure I wasn't about to lose a tire, or that the driveshaft was about to rip the flex joints.
She is officially parked! Plates are off, insurance is dropped, and Now harvesting or planning will take place. First I will keep it more or less driveable as it is until the turbo conversion is all done though. That way I can test it!
(10-06-2010, 05:01 PM)300D50 I can look into fabbing a remote filter adapter plate if you want, shouldn't be to hard.
Helps that I'm bored out of my brain right now and looking for things to do.
She was a good girl, sad she has to be laid to rest.
I will say, the sound of her going up the road at what I would assume was WOT was amazing!
(10-11-2010, 03:42 AM)300D50 I will say, the sound of her going up the road at what I would assume was WOT was amazing!
(10-11-2010, 03:42 AM)300D50 I will say, the sound of her going up the road at what I would assume was WOT was amazing!
An old datsun pickup would be kick ass with a 61x motor..especially a turbocharged 616 with a 4 speed. That would be a sweet ride.
I have to say, driving down the street my car turns almost every head there is, all due to the exhaust, when i give her fuel shes loud and it sounds great, when i cruise around its just a slight rumble and it sounds great, and idle is almost as quiet as stock.
I LOVE the straight pipe, i cant wait to hear how the om616 sounds with a turbo
(10-11-2010, 08:30 AM)dropnosky Whats the plan on the Ram50 project, are you going to try and adapt the stock exhaust?If I can get this damn litter box out of the exhaust stream, I'll try to! No point in remaking an exhaust system if I don't need to, right?
(10-11-2010, 08:30 AM)dropnosky Whats the plan on the Ram50 project, are you going to try and adapt the stock exhaust?If I can get this damn litter box out of the exhaust stream, I'll try to! No point in remaking an exhaust system if I don't need to, right?
got my hands on this-
an unknown year, but probably late 90s NV3500 5-speed tranny originally from an S10.
These 4x4lab guys who have been working on adapters for the last couple years and finally came out with one, currently sell an adapter that would mate this tranny to the 616. Its not cheap, $900 something bucks, but comes with flywheel and all that stuff all done.
The reason I was intrigued by their kit was this pic-
Notice how they have moved the starter location down to beneath the oil filter housing on the driver side. The advantage to this in my application would be that it would completely eliminate any potential starter/exhaust manifold/turbo heat issues that may develop by the proximity of all these parts on the passenger side.
the question then becomes whats more cost effective? If I buy this kit which solves my starter problem, and according to them, comes with a custom flywheel and most everything to make it work for the money they are asking, would it be cheaper than solving/machining all these issues on my own?
With the NV3500, the eventual vehicle for this engine would be a square body S10 or Sonoma 2wd. I like those trucks, last model in 93, I hate the newer ones. Plus the advantage to the older chevy truck is that it came with a 8ft bed as an option on a small truck, which you can still find. Also, the NV3500 was used in later jeeps, like 2000 plus I think. I have to do some further research into the cable clutch apparatus, and see how difficult the connection on the other side could be and what tolerances are needed, then this engine/tranny could go in almost anything.
Plus an old enough vehicle would also get me past the federal legality issue dropping a diesel in a former gas vehicle. I owned an S10 for work for a while with the 8ft bed, and loved its basic look and simplicity. Heres a pic, I WISH I still had this truck for this application. Ill probably never find one as clean as this was, not for real cheap anyway, the one below was 500 bucks running with no rust. Try finding that deal in the north east.
That will be a cool project! Dude your starter isn't even attached to anything. Its just hanging in that car all caught up in the steering damper and exhaust and crap :-(
(10-27-2010, 10:59 PM)Captain America That will be a cool project! Dude your starter isn't even attached to anything. Its just hanging in that car all caught up in the steering damper and exhaust and crap :-(
(10-27-2010, 10:59 PM)Captain America That will be a cool project! Dude your starter isn't even attached to anything. Its just hanging in that car all caught up in the steering damper and exhaust and crap :-(
AMAZING!
You MUST register on HRCS when you start doing this!
Notice I said when, not if!
Oh, and the 616 adapters will work with a 617 as well, same pattern and whatnot, you just might run into the issues I did with the front pan hitting the swaybar.
I can see price vs time, you can do it cheaper given time, using the Benz flywheel and PP, a custom disc (easily bought), and a piece of 3/8" steel plate.
This assumes that you have enough engagement of the clutch splines to the input shaft splines once everything fits together.
If not, you move the flywheel forward with a spacer.
If the clutch fork hits the flywheel or if the TOB wants to engage the PP, you have to deck down the flywheel and use a different pressure plate.
Did seeing my truck cause this?
And is that a removable bell housing I see? If so, you might be able to bribe a certain someone to do some measuring on it with a CMM, but only if it's cleaned...
(10-28-2010, 07:41 AM)300D50 Did seeing my truck cause this?
And is that a removable bell housing I see? If so, you might be able to bribe a certain someone to do some measuring on it with a CMM, but only if it's cleaned...
(10-28-2010, 07:41 AM)300D50 Did seeing my truck cause this?
And is that a removable bell housing I see? If so, you might be able to bribe a certain someone to do some measuring on it with a CMM, but only if it's cleaned...
Did I mention you need to register on HotrodCoffeeShop.com if you're doing any form of minitruck project?
Drats on the housing not being removable, it's a pita to find the pattern on the net.
(10-28-2010, 08:43 AM)300D50 Did I mention you need to register on HotrodCoffeeShop.com if you're doing any form of minitruck project?
Drats on the housing not being removable, it's a pita to find the pattern on the net.
(10-28-2010, 08:43 AM)300D50 Did I mention you need to register on HotrodCoffeeShop.com if you're doing any form of minitruck project?
Drats on the housing not being removable, it's a pita to find the pattern on the net.
Ha! I haven't even opened the box yet.... Its just sitting in my room. Should I open the grease ball? Now I'm kinda interested lol
We need youtube clips of the straight pipes. Both Dropnosky and Garage.