Well Ive been lurking around here for a while and have gotten lots of good info so Ive decided to share my project. Im swapping a OM617 turbo into a 94 toyota pickup. Heres some picks

I built an adapter to mate it to the toyota 5 speeed







New engine sitting in its home


It is VERY tight in the front

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Heres where im currently at

Exhaust downpipe wrapped with fiberglass



For the throttle I used a lokar carb style adapter


Mercedes adapter to toyota oil pressure sending unit


Radiator fitment I used a volvo radiator



Had to use hood pins because I cut so much out to fit the radiator



Some random shots

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And I just got these in the mail. Newly rebuild and pressure tested injectors with monark nozzles from mercedes source gotta love that place!


So thats where Im at as of now.
Heres what I have left on the to do list:
Hook up pyro, boost, oil temp, and water temp gauges
Finish wiring glow plug system
Cut notch out of oil pan for steering clearance
Purge the fuel system
Install new injectors and pre cup seal washers
And Im probably forgetting somthing. Should have more updates this weeknd

Cool Project

(03-29-2011 03:01 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Cool Project

Thanks it should be fun to drive especially once I start adjusting the pump

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Ive been searching for a while but havent found what I need. Can anyone tell me where to check the oil level in the IP?

From what I understand, its automatically filled via engine oil circulation. Not really a need to check the level.

(03-29-2011 03:11 PM)4rnnr33 Wrote:  

(03-29-2011 03:01 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Cool Project

Thanks it should be fun to drive especially once I start adjusting the pump

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Ive been searching for a while but havent found what I need. Can anyone tell me where to check the oil level in the IP?

I don't believe there is a "check" point on the pump, but there is a fill point; and the ALDA banjo points right at it.

Drew is right, it fills itself. I have never filled one after having the back cover off...

Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.

(03-30-2011 01:33 AM)dieselboy Wrote:  Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.

ooooo Look at Mr. Badass ... I thought breaking Dana 30 axles with 170hp was cool

awesome project! nice job on the adaption! Its amazing how close the toyota manual trans are to these mercedes as far as starter location is

Very nice! I like the adapter for the pilot bearing I may have to do something similar for my 300sdl 6spd project if I go with a single mass flywheel!

(03-30-2011 01:40 AM)Captain America Wrote:  

(03-30-2011 01:33 AM)dieselboy Wrote:  Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.

ooooo Look at Mr. Badass ... I thought breaking Dana 30 axles with 170hp was cool

I only have 220hp at the wheels lol. It's an old idi. The 460+ ftlbs is what does it. I have 250ftlbs at 900rpm lol.

The thing I liked was its simple an will run at any angle.

Looks good. I've seen a couple of 4runners with the om617 and they all have been different.

Thanks for all the feedback! Another thing Ive been trying to find is where to get the gasket for the rear pump cover. Anyone have an online store I could order one from?

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Oh and heres a pic of the truck that this is taking place on

did you shorten that bed? Looks like a Dakar truck

(03-30-2011 02:16 PM)dropnosky Wrote:  did you shorten that bed? Looks like a Dakar truck

Ya I took out about a foot

that looks pretty wicked. Can not wait to see this thing run.

im doin same swap in 84 curious if you found shop to balance match flywheel

(03-31-2011 12:01 AM)676869addict Wrote:  im doin same swap in 84 curious if you found shop to balance match flywheel

No I didnt look, after researching other people who have done the swap the majority of them didnt get the flywheel matched and had no problems so hopefully I get lucky too, but since Ive had it running when its idling it vibrates quite a bit but Im hoping my motor mounts are just too stiff... Maybe someone can chime in on how much vibration is normal with these engines.

Oh and while Im on here does anyone have any ideas on how to convert the mercedes tach signal to work with the factory toyota tach? This is the only thing that still has me puzzled.

There's a guy on one of the other forums that does custom tach amps, I forget the name though.

Thse swaps look AWESOME!

http://www.mbelectronicupgrades.com/Tachometer_Amp.html

this guy maybe?

Not sure, I'll check the mailing list for the email.

Man that thing looks badass bobbed! Wow I love the look!

@Dieselboy, I have 177hp and 224ft lbs of torque lol..... until the turbo gets installed. Add 100 to both numbers with 6lbs of boost

Yep, that's the guy for tach amps.
Email him and explain the situation, he should be able to make it work just purty.

(03-31-2011 11:52 PM)300D50 Wrote:  Yep, that's the guy for tach amps.
Email him and explain the situation, he should be able to make it work just purty.

Sweet deal thank you!

Well I got it pretty much all buttoned up this weekend and have drove it yesterday and today. Everything is going good so far except Im pretty sure im going to have to drop the tranny back out and get the flywheel match balanced, it vibrates quite a bit at idle and higher RPMs. Other than that theres a few small oil leaks to fix. The only other thing Ive noticed is that even with my ALDA adjusted all the way out I still get no black smoke so I think I might not be getting enough fuel maybe? The only thing I can think of is that I didnt take out the stock in tank fuel pump so maybe thats restricting flow? Anyways heres some pics

Notched the oil pan to clear draglink. Got super lucky on this because I didnt have to modify the pickup.


About 3/8" of clearance with suspension maxed out


Rebuilt injectors installed\


New primer pump installed


Gauges all hooked up (Still need to hook up water temp)


And a random one

Contrary to popular belief, you don't want black smoke, that means you have unburnt fuel and are dumping $$$ out the exhaust pipe.
A little at WOT before the turbo spools is acceptable, but much more than that isn't doing you any good.

Is the stock pump still running, or did you snip it's wire?

what kinda fuel pump is that?

Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'

Ya I know I don't really want the smoke but what im saying is that it won't smoke which tells me the fuel may be getting restricted somewhere like possibly the in tank pump. And it is not hooked up.

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(04-03-2011 04:47 PM)larsalan Wrote:  what kinda fuel pump is that?

Which pump are you talking about? The in tank pump is stock toyota. Or are you talking about the IP? That's the MW pump

this one, is a bosch lift pump?

Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'

Sorry, didn't mean to jump to conclusions. I'm so used to people thinking that black smoke = power I get a bit jumpy...

Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.

(04-03-2011 06:13 PM)larsalan Wrote:  
this one, is a bosch lift pump?

No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch ones
Edit: its a monarch pump

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(04-03-2011 06:13 PM)300D50 Wrote:  Sorry, didn't mean to jump to conclusions. I'm so used to people thinking that black smoke = power I get a bit jumpy...

Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.

I was actually just going to completely remove the pump but you gave me an idea. Hook the pump to a switch..... more fuel at the flick of a switch I might have to see if that would work hehe

The IP will limit the max pressure to a safe level, so I'd just leave it on all the time.

(04-03-2011 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 Wrote:  No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch ones
Edit: its a monarch pump

Thats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.

(04-03-2011 07:21 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(04-03-2011 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 Wrote:  No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch ones
Edit: its a monarch pump

Thats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.

Ya I know that I just mean its built more heavy duty and it does seem to pump a lot better than the old one (manually of course)

So does anyone have any ideas on the vibrations? I'm not very familiar with this motor so I'm not sure what to expect. I have pretty stiff motor mounts but it vibtates pretty bad at high rpms not sure if its normal or what.

have the valves been adjusted?

Id first remove that in tank toyota fuel pump. The vibration could be the engine working extra hard to draw fuel past a restriction, or an air problem or something.

There could be all kinds of stuff with that pump that might harming fuel delivery. I had a problem on a swap once (not toyota, I think it was a VW 1.6 diesel repowering from gas) where all our issues turned out to be caused by a one way check valve between the supply and return lines inside the fuel tank as part of the in tank pump assembly. We had physically removed the pump itself, but had left the assembly to act as supply and return stand pipes.

In that circumstance, the check valve was designed to close with pressure from the stock pump, but when fuel was DRAWN from the fuel feed by the mechanical diesel, the check valve line would open to return, dumping air into the supply line. Of course, it would only do this if you had 3/4s of a tank or less, or if you really whomped on the pedal. Took forever to pin down, it just looked like an extra piece of supporting plastic between the two lines, it wasn't until I was taking the thing completely apart that this little check valve, and an actual connection between supply and return presented itself. We ended up removing the whole thing in favor of a straight tube for supply and a port for return.

Removing that pump and any in line fuel filter underneath would at least remove that variable so you have a essentially stock mercedes like fuel system to start for diagnosis

In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.

Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.

(04-04-2011 02:35 PM)300D50 Wrote:  In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.

Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.

Ya i think thats what Ill try and do first is just hook up power to the in tank pump and see if that helps. Thats if I can trace down the wiring for it in the harness. If i cant find the wire i have to drop the tank to get to the plug anyways so I might as well just completely eliminate it. And I havent adjusted the valves yet but that will be getting done this weekend as soon as I make some wrenches

If you havent stripped all of the wiring out, get a schematic from a Haynes or Chiltons manual, find the fuel pump relay.Hook it to ignition+ or - & there you go.

Ed

(04-04-2011 01:53 AM)4rnnr33 Wrote:  it vibrates pretty bad at high rpms not sure if its normal .

mine was the opposite plenty of vibes at idle but smoothed right out with rpms

(04-04-2011 10:13 PM)85-300Dt Wrote:  

(04-04-2011 01:53 AM)4rnnr33 Wrote:  it vibrates pretty bad at high rpms not sure if its normal .

mine was the opposite plenty of vibes at idle but smoothed right out with rpms

It does at idle too then smoothes out and gets worse at high rpms

You had to fill up at the pump yet? I'm pretty sure you will have to modify the fuel filler neck.
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.

(04-05-2011 01:16 AM)dieselboy Wrote:  You had to fill up at the pump yet? I'm pretty sure you will have to modify the fuel filler neck.
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.

Ya I filled up I just stuck a screwdriver in the filler neck to open the little "flap" and had to fill it very slowly to keep it from overflowing. But i have a couple old ford diesel parts trucks sitting around so Ill probably try and graft a filler neck off one of them to the toyota.

the 617 runs very smooth at normal highway speeds. idle can be a little rough if the motor mounts are not good. in the car it has shock absorbers in addition to the mounts. If these go bad the engine is all over the place. Sort of a weird but gentle side to side rocking motion.

wish my Toyota frame was not rotten, this post gets me thinking of a swap.

(04-04-2011 02:35 PM)300D50 Wrote:  In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.

yeah, but whats the pressure of the stock gas pump? We need to find that out, could be over 100 psi (or could be low like the diesel). Short term, that might work great, but long term, deadheading the stock gas fuel pump against the 15-30psi mechanical diesel lift pump could end up toasting the stock pump, or blowing out a seal on the mechanical pump, either way creating some kind of restriction/drivability problem

I still think that it would be better to just remove it for the long term if its a fairly high pressure pump.

A surge tank takes care of it, and a high-psi pump against a low-psi over-pressure valve isn't much of a problem.
If it was a 5psi positive-displacement pump deadheading against a 100psi overpressure valve, you'd have problems, but most pumps are now turbine anyways.

Still can be an issue in certain cases, but I say drive it till it fails, then pull it. We know the failure mode anyways, and that the engine will run without it.

The original problem might not even be related to the fuel pump, it could be a weak return spring in the IP's banjo or a clogged fuel filter on the frame rail.

EDIT:
Just remembered the lift pump has check-valves, so you can still blow past it easily, I've pumped diesel through mine with a rattle-prattle inline pump before to purge air.

I plan on getting rid of the pump completely. It is a high pressure pump and I don't want to risk doing any damage. Also there is no filter on the frame only the 2 original diesel filters.

I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...

Removing it is the cleanest option, so go for it!

Ya I'm not big on dropping the tank either especially when its full lol. But i also hate wiring and I have no clue where the fuel pump wires are since I completely gutted my engine harness. So to me dropping the tank is easier.

I cut a hole in my floor instead of dropping my tank lol.

(04-09-2011 12:41 AM)300D50 Wrote:  I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...

Lol, 100% agree with this! Nothing is scarier than turning a rusted tank bolt a 1/4 turn and having the bolt break off and the strap crumble, then having to go in there and cut the strap and bolt off near the fuel! Especially if the tank is leaking to begin with.

(04-09-2011 07:15 AM)dropnosky Wrote:  

(04-09-2011 12:41 AM)300D50 Wrote:  I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...

Lol, 100% agree with this! Nothing is scarier than turning a rusted tank bolt a 1/4 turn and having the bolt break off and the strap crumble, then having to go in there and cut the strap and bolt off near the fuel! Especially if the tank is leaking to begin with.

See thats what is nice about the toyota is there are no straps just 6 bolts that hold the tank up, it makes it really easy.