http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ Wed, 10 Mar 2010 02:05:21 +0000 MyBB http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1202 Tue, 09 Mar 2010 16:37:03 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1202
WTB: electrical injection pump from OM605 engine.

offers here or PM.]]>
WTB: electrical injection pump from OM605 engine.

offers here or PM.]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1201 Tue, 09 Mar 2010 04:36:43 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1201
How about a remote supercharger powered by its own engine. Roots, screw, centrifugal, whatever. Wastegate actuator controls the throttle to maintain constant boost pressure as airflow consumption increases with engine RPM and turbo boost.

Anybody ever seen such a thing in use? I know in LeMons and F1 a few have tried something similar with a blower sucking air out from under the car for "perpetual downforce".]]>
How about a remote supercharger powered by its own engine. Roots, screw, centrifugal, whatever. Wastegate actuator controls the throttle to maintain constant boost pressure as airflow consumption increases with engine RPM and turbo boost.

Anybody ever seen such a thing in use? I know in LeMons and F1 a few have tried something similar with a blower sucking air out from under the car for "perpetual downforce".]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1200 Mon, 08 Mar 2010 20:50:55 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1200 I'm posting a distilled version of Tinker's post (he didn't get any response)
Here are the things I think guys here would know pretty well:

1. tach signal. 603 used the TDC sender. 606 has no provisions on the balancer to trigger a sender. But it has a flywheel pickup that creates 3 pulses per revolution.
How do we make use of that? do the aftermarket VDO tach's work with that directly? Can I wire that (coax) to the tach amp can to create a stronger signal to drive a tach?
How do you solve this? (we're removing the computer for this swap)

2. Serpentine belt length and pulleys. The engine looks like it will have a hybrid of 603 and 606 peripherals. The result will likely result in a non-stock serpentine belt size. Is that an impediment (is it easy to get different lengths) or should we plan on having extra idlers made to take up any slack? or put in extra effort to keep all 603 or all 606 pulleys/pully positions?

3. Keep the 603 CPU? I've heard the cpu can be important to maintaining a smooth idle on these engines. Other than that, I don't see any major value in it. Is idle really that big a deal on these engines?

4. Waste gate actuator. turbo has a waste gate actuator that closes on vacuum (and is controlled by a vacuum solenoid and CPU) should we just swap it out for an actuator that opens on boost? any recommendations on the actuator?

Any help would be awesome, Thanks from me and Tinker

A little background on the project:
This is a G-Wagen that belongs to a mutual friend of ours. Tinker's doing the work, I'm trying to help trouble shoot the process.
It had a 603 engine in it (with #14 head that cracked) and they decided to move up to a 606. As much as possible, they're keeping the 603 components. but vacuum pump, water pump, turbo and a few other things are remaining 606.]]> I'm posting a distilled version of Tinker's post (he didn't get any response)
Here are the things I think guys here would know pretty well:

1. tach signal. 603 used the TDC sender. 606 has no provisions on the balancer to trigger a sender. But it has a flywheel pickup that creates 3 pulses per revolution.
How do we make use of that? do the aftermarket VDO tach's work with that directly? Can I wire that (coax) to the tach amp can to create a stronger signal to drive a tach?
How do you solve this? (we're removing the computer for this swap)

2. Serpentine belt length and pulleys. The engine looks like it will have a hybrid of 603 and 606 peripherals. The result will likely result in a non-stock serpentine belt size. Is that an impediment (is it easy to get different lengths) or should we plan on having extra idlers made to take up any slack? or put in extra effort to keep all 603 or all 606 pulleys/pully positions?

3. Keep the 603 CPU? I've heard the cpu can be important to maintaining a smooth idle on these engines. Other than that, I don't see any major value in it. Is idle really that big a deal on these engines?

4. Waste gate actuator. turbo has a waste gate actuator that closes on vacuum (and is controlled by a vacuum solenoid and CPU) should we just swap it out for an actuator that opens on boost? any recommendations on the actuator?

Any help would be awesome, Thanks from me and Tinker

A little background on the project:
This is a G-Wagen that belongs to a mutual friend of ours. Tinker's doing the work, I'm trying to help trouble shoot the process.
It had a 603 engine in it (with #14 head that cracked) and they decided to move up to a 606. As much as possible, they're keeping the 603 components. but vacuum pump, water pump, turbo and a few other things are remaining 606.]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1199 Mon, 08 Mar 2010 18:17:33 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1199 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/vacu...http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/vacuum-form-headlight-doors-t I made a couple of weird headlight panels using vacuum/thermo forming of plastic polystyrene sheeting. Aside from the crudeness of the mold and process, the parts turned out decently enough for me to continue and make a better version.

That 2x4 and plywood machine sucked big time, and was a little small, so here are a few pics of my NEW machine, not totally complete, but you get the idea!

This machine is made almost exclusively out of garbage from a scrap yard, and crap lying around my house, so forgive the crudeness. Ingredients include- an old computer mainframe tower, metal shelving, patio door hardware and rollers, dodge caravan rotors, a snow shovel, garage door parts, an old oven, and random metal scraps.

To finish this machine, I need to mount the heating elements, and the table which are next. Im still gonna use the principle of using the wet dry vac for suction, but this thing should eliminate most of the transfer PITA and move it all into one big motion, and Im gonna put the trigger for the wet dry vac into a foot pedal of some sort.

some pics-
[attachment=2369]
[attachment=2370]
[attachment=2371]
[attachment=2372]

how it works- the home process breaks down into three components, heat the plastic, press it air tight over a mold, and suck it down onto the mold shape.
The way this contraption works is that the large arm swings up and down, and slides the rectangular cage straight up and down inside the blue frame work. The plastic is clamped inside the rectangular frame. Up top will hang heating elements from an electric stove (working on bracketry), and below will be a MDF topped table with a seal for the frame to seat against.

You would swing the frame up and lock it to heat the plastic, place your mold, once the plastic is hot, swing it down in one motion and hit the wet/dry vac to suck it down. The size and weight of the arm will allow you to put minimal force on it for ensure a nice hard seal, which will be household weather stripping.

Got some work left to do, but hopefully I should be able to churn out some random plastic stuff pretty soon! Best part is that im in the hole less than 150 bucks on this thing, and 75 was the oven! we will see what it takes to add the finishing touches, ill be pissed if I have to buy something new.

the space is about 2.5 x a little less than 2 and will allow almost a 1.5 foot high mold. (I had to keep the machine a reasonable size for the home, its as big as a fridge right now)
Suggestions on what kind of molds I should try and make once its done and works?
ideas so far-

1. Ive got my headlight doors
2. definitely a pillar pod, probably about a dozen types
3. I want to rig up some kind of cup holder. As an American, I DEMAND a place to put my coffee, screw this European fetish against drinking in the car.
4. I want to try and make the taxi dash thing, or a bastardized version

Anyway, suggestions on what to make, and any improvements on the machine would be much appreciated!]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/vacu...http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/vacuum-form-headlight-doors-t I made a couple of weird headlight panels using vacuum/thermo forming of plastic polystyrene sheeting. Aside from the crudeness of the mold and process, the parts turned out decently enough for me to continue and make a better version.

That 2x4 and plywood machine sucked big time, and was a little small, so here are a few pics of my NEW machine, not totally complete, but you get the idea!

This machine is made almost exclusively out of garbage from a scrap yard, and crap lying around my house, so forgive the crudeness. Ingredients include- an old computer mainframe tower, metal shelving, patio door hardware and rollers, dodge caravan rotors, a snow shovel, garage door parts, an old oven, and random metal scraps.

To finish this machine, I need to mount the heating elements, and the table which are next. Im still gonna use the principle of using the wet dry vac for suction, but this thing should eliminate most of the transfer PITA and move it all into one big motion, and Im gonna put the trigger for the wet dry vac into a foot pedal of some sort.

some pics-
[attachment=2369]
[attachment=2370]
[attachment=2371]
[attachment=2372]

how it works- the home process breaks down into three components, heat the plastic, press it air tight over a mold, and suck it down onto the mold shape.
The way this contraption works is that the large arm swings up and down, and slides the rectangular cage straight up and down inside the blue frame work. The plastic is clamped inside the rectangular frame. Up top will hang heating elements from an electric stove (working on bracketry), and below will be a MDF topped table with a seal for the frame to seat against.

You would swing the frame up and lock it to heat the plastic, place your mold, once the plastic is hot, swing it down in one motion and hit the wet/dry vac to suck it down. The size and weight of the arm will allow you to put minimal force on it for ensure a nice hard seal, which will be household weather stripping.

Got some work left to do, but hopefully I should be able to churn out some random plastic stuff pretty soon! Best part is that im in the hole less than 150 bucks on this thing, and 75 was the oven! we will see what it takes to add the finishing touches, ill be pissed if I have to buy something new.

the space is about 2.5 x a little less than 2 and will allow almost a 1.5 foot high mold. (I had to keep the machine a reasonable size for the home, its as big as a fridge right now)
Suggestions on what kind of molds I should try and make once its done and works?
ideas so far-

1. Ive got my headlight doors
2. definitely a pillar pod, probably about a dozen types
3. I want to rig up some kind of cup holder. As an American, I DEMAND a place to put my coffee, screw this European fetish against drinking in the car.
4. I want to try and make the taxi dash thing, or a bastardized version

Anyway, suggestions on what to make, and any improvements on the machine would be much appreciated!]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1198 Mon, 08 Mar 2010 11:20:03 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1198
I just stumbled across this site when I was reading through threads on D24T.com the VW 2.4 6 pot Diesel site for Volvo owners using the same lump!

I am a massive Mercedes nut and also love diesel power..

I currently own four Mercs (only one being diesel powered!) as follows
W201 2.6 1990
W124 300E-24
W124 300CE-24
W202 220 CDI

Have owned many more including a wonderfull 2.3-16 W201 and a couple of lovely TE's one 123 and another 124

Anyways enough about my Petrol powered Mercs! I have an early Volkswagen LT35 which runs the six pot 2.4D as shared with some diesel volvos I am looking to build and mild performance engine for her so Torque and low end accelaration are good and am hoping this site will assist me in doing so and may also spur me to buy an earlt diesel Merc.

I already have a TD intercooled engine as the basis to work on so will be looking to increase fueling and boost following the install of the thinnest possible aluminium head gasket to stop any of that presurized air escaping.

Any more tips would be usefull but in the mean time i will kick back read some posts and get involved.

Si ]]>
I just stumbled across this site when I was reading through threads on D24T.com the VW 2.4 6 pot Diesel site for Volvo owners using the same lump!

I am a massive Mercedes nut and also love diesel power..

I currently own four Mercs (only one being diesel powered!) as follows
W201 2.6 1990
W124 300E-24
W124 300CE-24
W202 220 CDI

Have owned many more including a wonderfull 2.3-16 W201 and a couple of lovely TE's one 123 and another 124

Anyways enough about my Petrol powered Mercs! I have an early Volkswagen LT35 which runs the six pot 2.4D as shared with some diesel volvos I am looking to build and mild performance engine for her so Torque and low end accelaration are good and am hoping this site will assist me in doing so and may also spur me to buy an earlt diesel Merc.

I already have a TD intercooled engine as the basis to work on so will be looking to increase fueling and boost following the install of the thinnest possible aluminium head gasket to stop any of that presurized air escaping.

Any more tips would be usefull but in the mean time i will kick back read some posts and get involved.

Si ]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1197 Sun, 07 Mar 2010 22:54:09 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1197
My question is do the VW nozzles themselvs for like a 1.6 or 1.9 diesel?

I have seen these listed for VW
The DN0SD265 nozzle

I thought I might be able to use these in my Mercedes 617?

I also saw some posts about the 240 nozzles
Does anyone have a source for these?

*How would you rate the Monark nozzles against these?

thanks
in Advance]]>
My question is do the VW nozzles themselvs for like a 1.6 or 1.9 diesel?

I have seen these listed for VW
The DN0SD265 nozzle

I thought I might be able to use these in my Mercedes 617?

I also saw some posts about the 240 nozzles
Does anyone have a source for these?

*How would you rate the Monark nozzles against these?

thanks
in Advance]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1196 Sun, 07 Mar 2010 11:07:53 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1196
The years have not been good, but man, the thing still runs great! I can't believe it! Most of this damage has been street parking and city driving in NYC by someone who could not afford to repair it. Its had I think double digit radios and windows stolen and broken, and has been in at least 5 accidents from the current owners tally.

THIS is why I never drive any car I care about in that city!

(note- when it was MINE, it was a nice shiny blue with nice white walls on OEM rims, and the leather was not even cracked.)

[attachment=2348]
[attachment=2349]
[attachment=2350]
[attachment=2351]
[attachment=2352]]]>
The years have not been good, but man, the thing still runs great! I can't believe it! Most of this damage has been street parking and city driving in NYC by someone who could not afford to repair it. Its had I think double digit radios and windows stolen and broken, and has been in at least 5 accidents from the current owners tally.

THIS is why I never drive any car I care about in that city!

(note- when it was MINE, it was a nice shiny blue with nice white walls on OEM rims, and the leather was not even cracked.)

[attachment=2348]
[attachment=2349]
[attachment=2350]
[attachment=2351]
[attachment=2352]]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1195 Sun, 07 Mar 2010 10:45:35 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1195 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1193 Sun, 07 Mar 2010 09:15:50 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1193
Still haven't decided on exactly where to move the lights, but I was curious if there are any mount differences between the wagon and sedans for a rear bumper, other than the features of the bumper itself?]]>
Still haven't decided on exactly where to move the lights, but I was curious if there are any mount differences between the wagon and sedans for a rear bumper, other than the features of the bumper itself?]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1192 Fri, 05 Mar 2010 07:48:21 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1192
I have an European 1992 190D with the 2.5 turbo diesel engine and 5sp manual gearbox.

I need to start looking for a differential as mine is whining pretty badly.

Does anyone have a list of diffs that are the same or similar to the one my car has?

Thank you

Deni]]>
I have an European 1992 190D with the 2.5 turbo diesel engine and 5sp manual gearbox.

I need to start looking for a differential as mine is whining pretty badly.

Does anyone have a list of diffs that are the same or similar to the one my car has?

Thank you

Deni]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1191 Thu, 04 Mar 2010 13:19:19 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1191
Big project here and lots of questions,

I am hoping to avoid some pitfalls by asking here first.

I am installing a 606T from a1999 E300 into a1983 GD300 (Gwagon)

The truck started with 617 and now has a dead 603 (1987) in it.

The plan is to swap the mechanical IP from the 603 onto the 606 and hopefully run the thing without the EDS.

List of issues:

1. The throttle linkage hits the 606's oil filter housing. I have seen the 603's filter swapped over (thanks Flash) and it fits with a little grinding of the intake manifold. Is this the best way to go? Is there a linkage from another app. that will work? We don't need cruise control?

2. I will be closing off the EGR and plan on using the 606's turbo with a simple mechanical boost control. Any recommendations ?

3. The AC compressor from the E300 hits the steering box. With the bracket and compressor from the 603 it fits in but the bracket has an idler pulley and I am not sure what length theserpentine belt will end up and if I can find one.

4. I will use thermo switches and relays to control the cooling fans, Is there anything
else that eliminating the EDS will leave inoperable? I hope to have all the original gauges working.

5. I am not sure about the tack wiring, The engine in there now has a pickup on the pulley with a 3 pin connector, the 606 uses a pickup on the flywheel that has a coaxial two wire plug. Any thoughts here?

6.I think I will lose the open throttle cut out for the AC but this shouldn't be a problem.

7. What is a good location for the EGT sender in the 606's exhaust manifold? Is there a probe that people recommend?

Any thoughts and recommendations greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Danny]]>
Big project here and lots of questions,

I am hoping to avoid some pitfalls by asking here first.

I am installing a 606T from a1999 E300 into a1983 GD300 (Gwagon)

The truck started with 617 and now has a dead 603 (1987) in it.

The plan is to swap the mechanical IP from the 603 onto the 606 and hopefully run the thing without the EDS.

List of issues:

1. The throttle linkage hits the 606's oil filter housing. I have seen the 603's filter swapped over (thanks Flash) and it fits with a little grinding of the intake manifold. Is this the best way to go? Is there a linkage from another app. that will work? We don't need cruise control?

2. I will be closing off the EGR and plan on using the 606's turbo with a simple mechanical boost control. Any recommendations ?

3. The AC compressor from the E300 hits the steering box. With the bracket and compressor from the 603 it fits in but the bracket has an idler pulley and I am not sure what length theserpentine belt will end up and if I can find one.

4. I will use thermo switches and relays to control the cooling fans, Is there anything
else that eliminating the EDS will leave inoperable? I hope to have all the original gauges working.

5. I am not sure about the tack wiring, The engine in there now has a pickup on the pulley with a 3 pin connector, the 606 uses a pickup on the flywheel that has a coaxial two wire plug. Any thoughts here?

6.I think I will lose the open throttle cut out for the AC but this shouldn't be a problem.

7. What is a good location for the EGT sender in the 606's exhaust manifold? Is there a probe that people recommend?

Any thoughts and recommendations greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Danny]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1190 Wed, 03 Mar 2010 22:57:02 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1190
Thanks

Ben]]>
Thanks

Ben]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1189 Tue, 02 Mar 2010 20:09:10 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1189
In the meantime I have been replacing a bad slave cylinder on a 1989 190e 2.6 with five speed. Soo... because I was not able to loosen the line to the slave, I ended up with the trans out of the car and, lo and behold, a dual mass flywheel that can not be turned. It also turns out that the flywheel I bought from the UK is also a dual mass flywheel. It is lighter than and has a pressure plate that is not as heavy duty as the 2.6 dual mass flywheel.

Since the five speed I have has the longer input shaft, I want to know if anyone has removed the pilot bearing from the center of a dual-mass and put the pilot bearing in the center of the crank shaft, old-style.

Can I install a '94 e250d dual mass flywheel, in the '87 300d with ('86) 5-speed with long input shaft?]]>
In the meantime I have been replacing a bad slave cylinder on a 1989 190e 2.6 with five speed. Soo... because I was not able to loosen the line to the slave, I ended up with the trans out of the car and, lo and behold, a dual mass flywheel that can not be turned. It also turns out that the flywheel I bought from the UK is also a dual mass flywheel. It is lighter than and has a pressure plate that is not as heavy duty as the 2.6 dual mass flywheel.

Since the five speed I have has the longer input shaft, I want to know if anyone has removed the pilot bearing from the center of a dual-mass and put the pilot bearing in the center of the crank shaft, old-style.

Can I install a '94 e250d dual mass flywheel, in the '87 300d with ('86) 5-speed with long input shaft?]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1187 Tue, 02 Mar 2010 17:48:15 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1187 Need to be 55 gallons or larger. I heard that I could get them refurbished or used for under $20. is this true? If anyone knows of a company that distributes these barrels I would like to know.

Thanks,

Jon]]> Need to be 55 gallons or larger. I heard that I could get them refurbished or used for under $20. is this true? If anyone knows of a company that distributes these barrels I would like to know.

Thanks,

Jon]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1186 Tue, 02 Mar 2010 17:10:16 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1186
I don't know if I ever posted these up, but here:

Stt turbo pictures

Are some pics of my 123 estate with the STT kitted 617 in it.

Hugh]]>
I don't know if I ever posted these up, but here:

Stt turbo pictures

Are some pics of my 123 estate with the STT kitted 617 in it.

Hugh]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1185 Tue, 02 Mar 2010 07:00:31 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1185
Will take pics of damage.]]>
Will take pics of damage.]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1184 Mon, 01 Mar 2010 23:51:14 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1184 ]]> ]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1183 Mon, 01 Mar 2010 21:30:22 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1183
Questions:

Is there any sense in me swapping it out BEFORE I get a HX35/40, or should I wait till I get the turbo?

Are there other improvements of this other than clearance for larger turbo?

Either way, will an HX35/40 need an adapter made or will it bolt directly on?

I do plan on intercooling it soon as well. Of course, all of this is after or during me getting the injection pump rebuilt and upgraded by Derv.

Please add in any info that I may need to know. Thanks!]]>
Questions:

Is there any sense in me swapping it out BEFORE I get a HX35/40, or should I wait till I get the turbo?

Are there other improvements of this other than clearance for larger turbo?

Either way, will an HX35/40 need an adapter made or will it bolt directly on?

I do plan on intercooling it soon as well. Of course, all of this is after or during me getting the injection pump rebuilt and upgraded by Derv.

Please add in any info that I may need to know. Thanks!]]> http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1182 Mon, 01 Mar 2010 16:33:10 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1182 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1181 Mon, 01 Mar 2010 08:53:57 -0500 http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1181
-My real question here is I would like to see some different filtering systems that are used by members of STD.

I am looking for a system which utilizes a reusable filter, a pump, and heat. Im also looking for a system to remove water from oil. Since I store much more oil than I can process, I would like to start selling quality WVO filtered to 1 micron for around a buck a gallon this year. I have my own collection drums at many local restaurants which supplies a good portion of my oil.]]>
-My real question here is I would like to see some different filtering systems that are used by members of STD.

I am looking for a system which utilizes a reusable filter, a pump, and heat. Im also looking for a system to remove water from oil. Since I store much more oil than I can process, I would like to start selling quality WVO filtered to 1 micron for around a buck a gallon this year. I have my own collection drums at many local restaurants which supplies a good portion of my oil.]]>