I bought this G-wagen in 2007 with the intention of changing it to diesel.
I wanted a rust-free, good condition truck to start with and spent half a year looking before getting this one.

The engine plan is..
gas > diesel > biodiesel > WVO > horsepower.
with the hope of getting about 200 HP without sacrificing mpg or reliability.

   

I'm still working out fitment details with the engine swap. I wasn't happy with the stock engine position and various other brackets that don't seem to fit perfectly in the conversion.

Overall, it's a pretty fun project vehicle.

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BTW, that's the donor car in the background. It had 53K miles on it before getting T-boned.

thats sharp, awesome job! could you send a couple pics of the engine bay?

Both of those vehicles look great! Too bad the TD got T-Boned. I was thinking how convenient, but I am sure you weren't thinking that! That car is too nice to tear apart.



BTW - Is the front sway bar from that TD salvageable? If so, do you want to sell it?

(07-28-2009 01:14 PM)MB TECH Wrote:  thats sharp, awesome job! could you send a couple pics of the engine bay?

I don't have many pictures of the engine bay yet. here's the engine with the harness and cardboard scratch guards still in place (I haven't removed it since the engine coming back out shortly)
   

and here is the engine as it's going in (with a buddy's white G in the background)
   

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(07-28-2009 11:23 PM)DeliveryValve Wrote:  Too bad the TD got T-Boned.

yeah, my thinking too but it would have been out of my price range if it hadn't been t-boned.

Quote:
BTW - Is the front sway bar from that TD salvageable? If so, do you want to sell it?

I'm pretty sure its good but I might have a local buyer for what remains. In anycase, I'm sitting on the car until the G is dialed in -- just in case there's something else I need. After that, I'll let you know.

Update: worked intermittently through the summer, designed new engine mounts that I'll be offering to the G-wagen community soon (through gwagenpreserve.com)

Solved some nagging fitment problems and now have the engine back the truck for final assembly. Still have a few more brackets, a power steering hose and a drive shaft to cut down but most everything looks straight forward now.

engine mounts:
   

engine in truck:
   

Did you compare the arms to the SD ones by any chance? Or were you sure the om617 gwagen arms were specific for the gwagen?

(10-12-2009 01:11 PM)winmutt Wrote:  Did you compare the arms to the SD ones by any chance? Or were you sure the om617 gwagen arms were specific for the gwagen?

The mounts are totally different. The mount shape is different and so is the locations for the perches. The G uses really big heavy duty mounts that look more like the tranny triangle mount. the chassis rails are also closer together and one is about 4 inches higher than the other and further forward.

Here's the right side mount in place using the cast iron mount arm from the 300GD (non-turbo 617 version). the bolt hits the wastegate actuator in this position - one of a list of reasons for making custom mounts.
   

Did you use the GWagen 617 oil pan?

(10-13-2009 11:22 AM)winmutt Wrote:  Did you use the GWagen 617 oil pan?

I haven't had the opportunity to compare the two but those who have say there are enough differences that it's not worth trying to use it.
Also, many people think that having a two piece pan with steel in the sump is much better than the one piece cast aluminum pan from the N/A 617 when out in the field. If you dent the sedan pan, you can beat it out with a hammer or rock while with the cast one, you're screwed.

also the TD pan has lots of gussetting to the rear that helps with the torque to the transmission.

Dont you people carry JB weld? Fixed my friends BMW oil pan with that (solid aluminum 1 piece). I can see the argument though, the steel pan is dirty cheap and easy to find.

(10-14-2009 03:14 PM)winmutt Wrote:  the steel pan is dirty cheap

Yep, costs about $7 more than it's gasket.

(10-14-2009 11:06 PM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  

(10-14-2009 03:14 PM)winmutt Wrote:  the steel pan is dirty cheap

Yep, costs about $7 more than it's gasket.

the fukkin local part yard tried to charge me 40 bux for one (which I almost did 'cause I needed it) but I told them to shove it and the next day discovered my (now regular) new parts place and got one for ~20... brand new vs. slightly beat up... anyway, I though it was just a NOS fluke of some sort, but its good to hear thats a repeatable price.

(10-15-2009 02:38 AM)SurfRodder Wrote:  but its good to hear thats a repeatable price.

My post was kind of an inside joke. On Tuesday I needed the lower pan gasket and the local stealership wanted $45 for it and only $7 more for the lower pan itself.
I ended up ordering the gasket and a bunch of other stuff online for the same $45 as the dealer's gasket alone.

Good news - Got the engine running last weekend and had the truck certified diesel this morning. It's still running a bit rough - need to go back over the valve clearances and injector pressures because the idle feels like it's going to knock my fillings loose. Not getting full throttle yet - still need to tweak the linkage.
But horse power is there - feels better than the gas motor ever did.

That's awesome brotha! Nice work, when you get the bugs worked out, post a vid.

(12-11-2009 01:42 AM)Syncro_G Wrote:  It's still running a bit rough

Still sorting out details. Engine idles like glass now.
The roughness turned out to be residual gas. took a couple tanks to smooth it out.

I need to make some room under the hood so I'm going to remove the EGR system but need to figure out how to keep the vacuum amplifier to transmission properly hooked up.
   
   
   

That air filter is begging for a snorkel....

(01-03-2010 06:34 AM)ForcedInduction Wrote:  That air filter is begging for a snorkel....

It's an easy mod with this air filter but in doing the engine swap, I nolonger have a waterproofed engine and transmission.
Putting the iron 5-speed in should get it mostly ready.

I've done a bit more work since the previous post -
- deleted EGR
- smaller SD water pump pulley (thanks DeliveryValve!)
- dual batteries (so I can suck away even more horsepower from the drivetrain)
- new heater hoses
(still haven't hooked up the pyrometer - I'm hoping to get a w115 intake soon and want to do all of that at the same time)

   

BTW, a moderator can move this thread to the trucks section - (I didn't realize there was an MB trucks forum when I started this thread)

(02-27-2010 06:53 PM)Syncro_G Wrote:  BTW, a moderator can move this thread to the trucks section - (I didn't realize there was an MB trucks forum when I started this thread)

Its a profile of your vehicle, its where it should be.

I have say... That is one nice factory-esque looking engine compartment. Great job!





.

(02-28-2010 06:45 PM)DeliveryValve Wrote:  I have say... That is one nice factory-esque looking engine compartment. Great job!

Thanks! That was the hope all along. I went to some effort to re-use brackets and bolts from the donor w123 car and there's a number of parts from the 300GD that are direct bolt on. So between the two and some patience, it can look pretty much like it would have if it were a factory motor.

OK, engine bay (and rest of truck) is no-longer immaculate...
   

Last weekend I rode through some very muddy trails along the Humbolt Co. "Lost Coast" It was a hoot - lots of fast paced trail driving and a few deep mud bogs to tow each other through.

   

   

And the last outlook before the light was gone...
   

Does the 617 give you enough power through the trails and mud bogs?

man, i hope you say "yes!"
i'm in the process of swapping an om617 into my fj40.

nice work on the swap, i can really appreciate the amount of thought and planning you put into it.

(04-07-2010 12:49 PM)MB TECH Wrote:  Does the 617 give you enough power through the trails and mud bogs?

(04-07-2010 12:49 PM)MB TECH Wrote:  Does the 617 give you enough power through the trails and mud bogs?

Totally. You don't really need much to drive at trail speeds. The G also has a 4:1 transfere case but I never felt the need to drop it down.

On the freeway I'd love to get more hp though

have you tried any hill climbs?

(04-09-2010 08:33 AM)MB TECH Wrote:  have you tried any hill climbs?

I live in the hills. I drive small steep roads and inclined freeways every day.
On that trail ride, I climbed a really steep muddy section that I had to engauge the rear locker for.

The engine is plenty strong enough for the small roads and trail--actually feels peppy. But at freeway speeds, I don't have enough torque at higher RPMs (horsepower) to keep up so I end up slowing to 50-60 depending on the incline. Overdrive should help out a lot (in the plans).

Keep in mind the dry weight of the G is 5500lbs

Excellent, thanks for the responses. Good job with the project by the way.

(04-09-2010 09:59 AM)MB TECH Wrote:  Excellent, thanks for the responses. Good job with the project by the way.

Thanks!

(04-09-2010 09:45 AM)Syncro_G Wrote:  

(04-09-2010 08:33 AM)MB TECH Wrote:  have you tried any hill climbs?

I live in the hills. I drive small steep roads and inclined freeways every day.
On that trail ride, I climbed a really steep muddy section that I had to engauge the rear locker for.

The engine is plenty strong enough for the small roads and trail--actually feels peppy. But at freeway speeds, I don't have enough torque at higher RPMs (horsepower) to keep up so I end up slowing to 50-60 depending on the incline. Overdrive should help out a lot (in the plans).

Keep in mind the dry weight of the G is 5500lbs

could you tell us what your gear ratios are (rear end, top tranny gear, transfer high and tire size). being able to pull a grade on the freeway is definitely a concern of mine for my build.
thanks much!

(04-09-2010 07:27 PM)fj four o Wrote:  could you tell us what your gear ratios are (rear end, top tranny gear, transfer high and tire size). being able to pull a grade on the freeway is definitely a concern of mine for my build.
thanks much!

Unfortunately I don't know the rear diff gearing. with a little math, you should be able to figure it out from the following:

transfer case is 1:1 for street, transmission is 1:1 and tires are 31"
at 3000 RPM in top gear, it goes about 60MPH (depending on the torque converter load)

according to my calculations, you have a 4.60 ring and pinion.
thanks for the info, should help to focus my tire selection.
sweet wagen!!

have you considered using the 617 a/c compressor for on board air? can it be done?