Engine Technical Help Please !!!
Engine Technical Help Please !!!
I have alot of oil leaking at the back of the Turbo where the down pipe connects !! It is throwing oil everywhere ;;;; I am assuming the seals in the Turbo got dried out and when I started it they started leaking !!!
I also had a terrible oil leak that appeared to be coming from the IP where it bolts to the block. I removed it and replaced the seal ; using caution not to disturb it by rotating the IP !! Well , low and behold it somehow came up out of time . It took it to a professional and had it put back in time using the factory drip tool !!
Now , Although the engine starts up right away or at least by the second crank it won't rise above approximately 500 to 700 rpm ; without choking itself out and dying !!
HELP !!! I NEED TO GET THIS THING TO RUN CORRECTLY !!!
ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED !!
I got the OM617.952 installed into a 1994 Wrangler . The engine had sat for more than 3 years and some of the seals dried out . And when I started it and drove it for the first time :::::::
I have alot of oil leaking at the back of the Turbo where the down pipe connects !! It is throwing oil everywhere ;;;; I am assuming the seals in the Turbo got dried out and when I started it they started leaking !!!
I also had a terrible oil leak that appeared to be coming from the IP where it bolts to the block. I removed it and replaced the seal ; using caution not to disturb it by rotating the IP !! Well , low and behold it somehow came up out of time . It took it to a professional and had it put back in time using the factory drip tool !!
Now , Although the engine starts up right away or at least by the second crank it won't rise above approximately 500 to 700 rpm ; without choking itself out and dying !!
HELP !!! I NEED TO GET THIS THING TO RUN CORRECTLY !!!
ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED !!
I am really in a pickle and need some advise !!! Just point me in the right direction !!!
Does anyone think that some of the problem could be some dirt or something clogging the fuel pump primer ??????
Come on guys !!! 15 views and no one knows how to help me fix the problem !!!
I am really in a pickle and need some advise !!! Just point me in the right direction !!!
Does anyone think that some of the problem could be some dirt or something clogging the fuel pump primer ??????
For example, Im hungry right now, so ill use a food analogy- Lets say there is a recipe for a tasty chicken dish im making. But instead of chicken, I use some other meat and other spices. In the end, I ask you what went wrong with the recipe, cause it doesn't taste the way I think it should. How would you know? You only know the recipe as it stands in the book, not for the dish I made, however delicious it is.
Having said that, in your shoes, my first thought would be to make sure there is no obstruction in the fuel line, IE, jeep fuel pump in the tank, jeep suction screen on the fuel pickup, ect. The other thing Id check would be for some old rubber fuel line that sucks flat when you put suction on it like the benz engine is doing, verses having a fuel pump force fuel through it like the jeep application.
You've got the timing worked out it seems, if it were me, Id just go through and make sure ive got air and fuel. Worse case scenario you could run the engine off of a gallon fuel tank in the engine bay to make sure it runs properly, then work your way back. Isolating whether this is engine or chassis related will really simplify your situation. Are you sure this 617 is healthy? valve adjustment? compression? are the benz fuel filters new? ect.
at any rate, good luck, im interested to hear what the problem is in the end
Its really hard to say with how custom this is. You could have a problem with the jeep chassis, or the engine, or how the two relate if both were parts vehicles originally. How did the jeep run before? There could be a hundred questions on something like this like throttle linkages, exhaust, fuel supply, air supply, ect. All of these things could be involved with the problem, and would be affected by the custom installation. I am certainly, and possibly others were just waiting to hear back from you when you figure it out! After all, this setup is pretty much a personal extension of you now, and it would be really hard for someone else to apply standard diagnostic procedures to it.
For example, Im hungry right now, so ill use a food analogy- Lets say there is a recipe for a tasty chicken dish im making. But instead of chicken, I use some other meat and other spices. In the end, I ask you what went wrong with the recipe, cause it doesn't taste the way I think it should. How would you know? You only know the recipe as it stands in the book, not for the dish I made, however delicious it is.
Having said that, in your shoes, my first thought would be to make sure there is no obstruction in the fuel line, IE, jeep fuel pump in the tank, jeep suction screen on the fuel pickup, ect. The other thing Id check would be for some old rubber fuel line that sucks flat when you put suction on it like the benz engine is doing, verses having a fuel pump force fuel through it like the jeep application.
You've got the timing worked out it seems, if it were me, Id just go through and make sure ive got air and fuel. Worse case scenario you could run the engine off of a gallon fuel tank in the engine bay to make sure it runs properly, then work your way back. Isolating whether this is engine or chassis related will really simplify your situation. Are you sure this 617 is healthy? valve adjustment? compression? are the benz fuel filters new? ect.
at any rate, good luck, im interested to hear what the problem is in the end
Timing could be off? Engine should have been turned to 24* on number 1 before pump was removed, if not then after would be ok. There is a notch and flat or missing tooth on pump. They should be aligned before you install pump.
Down pipe of turbo - Do you mean exhaust or turbo drain pipe?
The only rubber seals in the turbo are: 1. compressor housing to back plate 1. Back plate to CHRA. The other seals are like piston rings.
Could be some blockage on outlet drain causing oil to go past piston rings.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
01-03-2010, 09:53 PM #4I had a similar problem when I was working on my car, it would start and idle but run like crap, would not rev and sounded like it ran on two cylinders. It turns out I forgot to remove the rag I used to plug the turbo when I was working on the motor and didn't want anything to damage the compressor. Maybe you have an intake issue? It could be fuel - basic checks and start from number one, even though you may have done it already, do it again.
Timing could be off? Engine should have been turned to 24* on number 1 before pump was removed, if not then after would be ok. There is a notch and flat or missing tooth on pump. They should be aligned before you install pump.
Down pipe of turbo - Do you mean exhaust or turbo drain pipe?
The only rubber seals in the turbo are: 1. compressor housing to back plate 1. Back plate to CHRA. The other seals are like piston rings.
Could be some blockage on outlet drain causing oil to go past piston rings.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
(01-03-2010, 03:34 PM)Hulkgreen I got the OM617.952 installed into a 1994 Wrangler . The engine had sat for more than 3 years and some of the seals dried out . And when I started it and drove it for the first time :::::::
I have alot of oil leaking at the back of the Turbo where the down pipe connects !! It is throwing oil everywhere ;;;; I am assuming the seals in the Turbo got dried out and when I started it they started leaking !!!
I also had a terrible oil leak that appeared to be coming from the IP where it bolts to the block. I removed it and replaced the seal ; using caution not to disturb it by rotating the IP !! Well , low and behold it somehow came up out of time . It took it to a professional and had it put back in time using the factory drip tool !!
Now , Although the engine starts up right away or at least by the second crank it won't rise above approximately 500 to 700 rpm ; without choking itself out and dying !!
HELP !!! I NEED TO GET THIS THING TO RUN CORRECTLY !!!
ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED !!
does it run at 500 RPM for a while, or does it quit right off? seems to me it is a fuel delivery issue, especially since it was running before the IP got pulled.
still yet when I first got my wagon on the road, it would not run much above an idle for about 5 minutes.. even if you had it wide open, then as it warmed up it would run much better.. did that for a couple of weeks, and then it would only do so after sitting for a week. that problem fixed itself...
(01-03-2010, 03:34 PM)Hulkgreen I got the OM617.952 installed into a 1994 Wrangler . The engine had sat for more than 3 years and some of the seals dried out . And when I started it and drove it for the first time :::::::
I have alot of oil leaking at the back of the Turbo where the down pipe connects !! It is throwing oil everywhere ;;;; I am assuming the seals in the Turbo got dried out and when I started it they started leaking !!!
I also had a terrible oil leak that appeared to be coming from the IP where it bolts to the block. I removed it and replaced the seal ; using caution not to disturb it by rotating the IP !! Well , low and behold it somehow came up out of time . It took it to a professional and had it put back in time using the factory drip tool !!
Now , Although the engine starts up right away or at least by the second crank it won't rise above approximately 500 to 700 rpm ; without choking itself out and dying !!
HELP !!! I NEED TO GET THIS THING TO RUN CORRECTLY !!!
ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED !!
does it run at 500 RPM for a while, or does it quit right off? seems to me it is a fuel delivery issue, especially since it was running before the IP got pulled.
still yet when I first got my wagon on the road, it would not run much above an idle for about 5 minutes.. even if you had it wide open, then as it warmed up it would run much better.. did that for a couple of weeks, and then it would only do so after sitting for a week. that problem fixed itself...
I had that problem when first starting up my transplant. I left the old filter in place because I expected it to collect some dirt from all the work. it ran like crap and then I did a diesel purge with new filter and everything sorted out pretty well.
also if you went from gas to diesel, you'll have to get through the first full take to clear out an residual gas. it will idle like crap until the gas is gone.
good luck on the oil leaks.
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
no comment on the oil but the low idle could be from a dirty fuel filter.
I had that problem when first starting up my transplant. I left the old filter in place because I expected it to collect some dirt from all the work. it ran like crap and then I did a diesel purge with new filter and everything sorted out pretty well.
also if you went from gas to diesel, you'll have to get through the first full take to clear out an residual gas. it will idle like crap until the gas is gone.
good luck on the oil leaks.
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
From your pictures the crankcase vent (said "tube") is not venting properly. This tube should be ran to an air/oil separator, a puke can, or into the intake.. Not back into the crankcase.
I bet you that this is your problem.
1983 300CD "Spike" Stock, as of now.
Take the tube from the valve cover and pull it out of the drain pipe next to the exhaust side of the turbo.
From your pictures the crankcase vent (said "tube") is not venting properly. This tube should be ran to an air/oil separator, a puke can, or into the intake.. Not back into the crankcase.
I bet you that this is your problem.
1983 300CD "Spike" Stock, as of now.
ForcedInduction
01-04-2010, 05:33 AM
#8
Nick is correct, your CCV system design is the root cause. The crankcase is building up pressure because it has no way to escape, thats pushing on the shutoff actuator in the injection pump which stops the engine.
It is greatly appreciated !!!
Yes , I will start by changing the fuel filters ; and as was noticed ; it did run EXACTLY as seen prior to pulling the IP !! EVEN with the vent tube into the oil drain which is actually just resting on it ; but I will pull it out !!! SO THANKS !!
(01-03-2010, 08:23 PM)dropnosky Its really hard to say with how custom this is. You could have a problem with the jeep chassis, or the engine, or how the two relate if both were parts vehicles originally. How did the jeep run before? There could be a hundred questions on something like this like throttle linkages, exhaust, fuel supply, air supply, ect. All of these things could be involved with the problem, and would be affected by the custom installation. I am certainly, and possibly others were just waiting to hear back from you when you figure it out! After all, this setup is pretty much a personal extension of you now, and it would be really hard for someone else to apply standard diagnostic procedures to it.
For example, Im hungry right now, so ill use a food analogy- Lets say there is a recipe for a tasty chicken dish im making. But instead of chicken, I use some other meat and other spices. In the end, I ask you what went wrong with the recipe, cause it doesn't taste the way I think it should. How would you know? You only know the recipe as it stands in the book, not for the dish I made, however delicious it is.
Having said that, in your shoes, my first thought would be to make sure there is no obstruction in the fuel line, IE, jeep fuel pump in the tank, jeep suction screen on the fuel pickup, ect. The other thing Id check would be for some old rubber fuel line that sucks flat when you put suction on it like the benz engine is doing, verses having a fuel pump force fuel through it like the jeep application.
You've got the timing worked out it seems, if it were me, Id just go through and make sure ive got air and fuel. Worse case scenario you could run the engine off of a gallon fuel tank in the engine bay to make sure it runs properly, then work your way back. Isolating whether this is engine or chassis related will really simplify your situation. Are you sure this 617 is healthy? valve adjustment? compression? are the benz fuel filters new? ect.
at any rate, good luck, im interested to hear what the problem is in the end
I will take your advise and see if I can isolate fuel ; by sticking a fuel hose in a fresh fuel can !!!! It is a good start as well as pulling the vent hose out !!
I will get back later tonite !!
THANKS !!!
(01-03-2010, 09:53 PM)Rudolf_Diesel I had a similar problem when I was working on my car, it would start and idle but run like crap, would not rev and sounded like it ran on two cylinders. It turns out I forgot to remove the rag I used to plug the turbo when I was working on the motor and didn't want anything to damage the compressor. Maybe you have an intake issue? It could be fuel - basic checks and start from number one, even though you may have done it already, do it again.
Timing could be off? Engine should have been turned to 24* on number 1 before pump was removed, if not then after would be ok. There is a notch and flat or missing tooth on pump. They should be aligned before you install pump.
Down pipe of turbo - Do you mean exhaust or turbo drain pipe?
The only rubber seals in the turbo are: 1. compressor housing to back plate 1. Back plate to CHRA. The other seals are like piston rings.
Could be some blockage on outlet drain causing oil to go past piston rings.
Down pipe of turbo = there is an " S " in the stock exhaust and 3 bolts hold the " S " onto an accordian pipe which connects to turbo !! Oil is coming out at the " S " connection to accordian connection !!
I removed ALL of the exhaust out of the 300d and connected it to the jeeps at the Jeep muffler which had just been replaced with a Dynomax Ultraflo Muffler being the only restriction !!
I have a used turbo on its way to try replacing my " questionable " one !! But , since you say there are very few rubber seals that could be a possible leak point ; I now question whether this is my oil leak problem !!!
(01-04-2010, 02:37 AM)Syncro_G no comment on the oil but the low idle could be from a dirty fuel filter.
I had that problem when first starting up my transplant. I left the old filter in place because I expected it to collect some dirt from all the work. it ran like crap and then I did a diesel purge with new filter and everything sorted out pretty well.
also if you went from gas to diesel, you'll have to get through the first full take to clear out an residual gas. it will idle like crap until the gas is gone.
good luck on the oil leaks.
When I did the conversion ; I pulled the original fuel tank dumped all but a few drops of gasoline then removed the stock fuel pump and sock and since the gas return line was approx. 1 inch off the bottom of the tank ; when I put it back together I switched and made the return line the Diesel feed and the Gas feed the Diesel return !!! I then put 10 gallons of fresh Diesel into the tank !!
On its maiden voyage was a trip to the store to top off the tank with more fresh Diesel !! This all took place with GOOD POWER and where I found that with the 3.07 gears and 31" tires that 5th gear was useless cause the engine dropped out of its powerband and had to go back to 4th gear to maintain speed and my GPS unit said I was doing 60-65 mph , but as you can imagine the stock tachometer was not compatable with the Benz engine !!!
Thank you for your insight ..... it is appreciated !!!!!
Thank you sooooo much for pointing in " any " direction !!!
It is greatly appreciated !!!
Yes , I will start by changing the fuel filters ; and as was noticed ; it did run EXACTLY as seen prior to pulling the IP !! EVEN with the vent tube into the oil drain which is actually just resting on it ; but I will pull it out !!! SO THANKS !!
(01-03-2010, 08:23 PM)dropnosky Its really hard to say with how custom this is. You could have a problem with the jeep chassis, or the engine, or how the two relate if both were parts vehicles originally. How did the jeep run before? There could be a hundred questions on something like this like throttle linkages, exhaust, fuel supply, air supply, ect. All of these things could be involved with the problem, and would be affected by the custom installation. I am certainly, and possibly others were just waiting to hear back from you when you figure it out! After all, this setup is pretty much a personal extension of you now, and it would be really hard for someone else to apply standard diagnostic procedures to it.
For example, Im hungry right now, so ill use a food analogy- Lets say there is a recipe for a tasty chicken dish im making. But instead of chicken, I use some other meat and other spices. In the end, I ask you what went wrong with the recipe, cause it doesn't taste the way I think it should. How would you know? You only know the recipe as it stands in the book, not for the dish I made, however delicious it is.
Having said that, in your shoes, my first thought would be to make sure there is no obstruction in the fuel line, IE, jeep fuel pump in the tank, jeep suction screen on the fuel pickup, ect. The other thing Id check would be for some old rubber fuel line that sucks flat when you put suction on it like the benz engine is doing, verses having a fuel pump force fuel through it like the jeep application.
You've got the timing worked out it seems, if it were me, Id just go through and make sure ive got air and fuel. Worse case scenario you could run the engine off of a gallon fuel tank in the engine bay to make sure it runs properly, then work your way back. Isolating whether this is engine or chassis related will really simplify your situation. Are you sure this 617 is healthy? valve adjustment? compression? are the benz fuel filters new? ect.
at any rate, good luck, im interested to hear what the problem is in the end
I will take your advise and see if I can isolate fuel ; by sticking a fuel hose in a fresh fuel can !!!! It is a good start as well as pulling the vent hose out !!
I will get back later tonite !!
THANKS !!!
(01-03-2010, 09:53 PM)Rudolf_Diesel I had a similar problem when I was working on my car, it would start and idle but run like crap, would not rev and sounded like it ran on two cylinders. It turns out I forgot to remove the rag I used to plug the turbo when I was working on the motor and didn't want anything to damage the compressor. Maybe you have an intake issue? It could be fuel - basic checks and start from number one, even though you may have done it already, do it again.
Timing could be off? Engine should have been turned to 24* on number 1 before pump was removed, if not then after would be ok. There is a notch and flat or missing tooth on pump. They should be aligned before you install pump.
Down pipe of turbo - Do you mean exhaust or turbo drain pipe?
The only rubber seals in the turbo are: 1. compressor housing to back plate 1. Back plate to CHRA. The other seals are like piston rings.
Could be some blockage on outlet drain causing oil to go past piston rings.
Down pipe of turbo = there is an " S " in the stock exhaust and 3 bolts hold the " S " onto an accordian pipe which connects to turbo !! Oil is coming out at the " S " connection to accordian connection !!
I removed ALL of the exhaust out of the 300d and connected it to the jeeps at the Jeep muffler which had just been replaced with a Dynomax Ultraflo Muffler being the only restriction !!
I have a used turbo on its way to try replacing my " questionable " one !! But , since you say there are very few rubber seals that could be a possible leak point ; I now question whether this is my oil leak problem !!!
(01-04-2010, 02:37 AM)Syncro_G no comment on the oil but the low idle could be from a dirty fuel filter.
I had that problem when first starting up my transplant. I left the old filter in place because I expected it to collect some dirt from all the work. it ran like crap and then I did a diesel purge with new filter and everything sorted out pretty well.
also if you went from gas to diesel, you'll have to get through the first full take to clear out an residual gas. it will idle like crap until the gas is gone.
good luck on the oil leaks.
When I did the conversion ; I pulled the original fuel tank dumped all but a few drops of gasoline then removed the stock fuel pump and sock and since the gas return line was approx. 1 inch off the bottom of the tank ; when I put it back together I switched and made the return line the Diesel feed and the Gas feed the Diesel return !!! I then put 10 gallons of fresh Diesel into the tank !!
On its maiden voyage was a trip to the store to top off the tank with more fresh Diesel !! This all took place with GOOD POWER and where I found that with the 3.07 gears and 31" tires that 5th gear was useless cause the engine dropped out of its powerband and had to go back to 4th gear to maintain speed and my GPS unit said I was doing 60-65 mph , but as you can imagine the stock tachometer was not compatable with the Benz engine !!!
Thank you for your insight ..... it is appreciated !!!!!
(01-04-2010, 10:46 AM)Hulkgreen when I put it back together I switched and made the return line the Diesel feed and the Gas feed the Diesel return !!!
This might also be a problem worth checking out. On several in tank fuel pumps I have taken apart, I have occasionally found little integrated invisible one way check valves between supply and return, or return alone, for various reasons. My guess was for two reasons, to maintain back pressure on the return with a return only check valve, or to bleed excess fuel pressure off in the tank with a linked check valve.
This was on a lot newer vehicles, so it could not be applicable here, but if you were to remove the pump from the plastic spring loaded cage on the first such setup and swap supply and return, the flow would be low enough to keep the check valve open while idling, but as soon as you stamped on it, it would close and shut off fuel flow.
Also, I found that when both supply and return are linked with a check valve, its ABOVE the fuel pump, sometimes way above in the cage, so if you were to again swap supply and return for this setup, the check valve could open and dump air in the return line even with a fairly full fuel tank. Ask me how I know this.
But you said you had it running fine for a while, so probably not. What year is the jeep?
(01-04-2010, 10:46 AM)Hulkgreen when I put it back together I switched and made the return line the Diesel feed and the Gas feed the Diesel return !!!
This might also be a problem worth checking out. On several in tank fuel pumps I have taken apart, I have occasionally found little integrated invisible one way check valves between supply and return, or return alone, for various reasons. My guess was for two reasons, to maintain back pressure on the return with a return only check valve, or to bleed excess fuel pressure off in the tank with a linked check valve.
This was on a lot newer vehicles, so it could not be applicable here, but if you were to remove the pump from the plastic spring loaded cage on the first such setup and swap supply and return, the flow would be low enough to keep the check valve open while idling, but as soon as you stamped on it, it would close and shut off fuel flow.
Also, I found that when both supply and return are linked with a check valve, its ABOVE the fuel pump, sometimes way above in the cage, so if you were to again swap supply and return for this setup, the check valve could open and dump air in the return line even with a fairly full fuel tank. Ask me how I know this.
But you said you had it running fine for a while, so probably not. What year is the jeep?
The JEEP is a 1994 !! I don't think there is a check valve in the return line !!
(01-05-2010, 08:52 AM)dropnosky(01-04-2010, 10:46 AM)Hulkgreen when I put it back together I switched and made the return line the Diesel feed and the Gas feed the Diesel return !!!
This might also be a problem worth checking out. On several in tank fuel pumps I have taken apart, I have occasionally found little integrated invisible one way check valves between supply and return, or return alone, for various reasons. My guess was for two reasons, to maintain back pressure on the return with a return only check valve, or to bleed excess fuel pressure off in the tank with a linked check valve.
This was on a lot newer vehicles, so it could not be applicable here, but if you were to remove the pump from the plastic spring loaded cage on the first such setup and swap supply and return, the flow would be low enough to keep the check valve open while idling, but as soon as you stamped on it, it would close and shut off fuel flow.
Also, I found that when both supply and return are linked with a check valve, its ABOVE the fuel pump, sometimes way above in the cage, so if you were to again swap supply and return for this setup, the check valve could open and dump air in the return line even with a fairly full fuel tank. Ask me how I know this.
But you said you had it running fine for a while, so probably not. What year is the jeep?
(01-05-2010, 06:37 PM)Kiwibacon A turbo spitting oil is almost always a blocked oil drain or pressurised crank-case.
I pulled the breather tube out ; like was mentioned earlier !!! Please tell me more about a blocked oil drain ; where would I check this and possible correct it ?????
Wanted to give an update !! I got a chance to get a couple minutes in the garage ; my wife plugged the block heater in and the next morning my radiator was slightly warm to the touch ; so I gave it a crank and on the first crank I turned it to ON and counted to 15 to let the glow plugs warm alittle and it attempted but NO GO and on the second try I did not turn the key off before trying and it changed TONE and was not trying ; but when I turned the key OFF completely and then to ON and counted to 10 to allow the glow plugs to warm again and it started up but only for a few seconds !! I turned it OFF and then back ON and counted to 10 again and it started back up ; but died again !!
SO ; I would have to say it will not IDLE on its own !!! I am beginning to think there is something wrong with the Injection Pump or its timing , since it ran fine before removal to change the gasket ( although , I had a Mechanic who worked at a Mercedes Dealer for 15 years before he got his Mechanical Engineering Degree and opened his own shop ) did the IP install and injection timing settings ; so I assume it is correct !!!
I still should attempt to run it out of a fuel can to isolate and eliminate potential problems !!
You are correct !!! I had it running for a couple weeks with no problems until ; I pulled the IP and then EVERYTHING went to hell and a hand basket !!!
The JEEP is a 1994 !! I don't think there is a check valve in the return line !!
(01-05-2010, 08:52 AM)dropnosky(01-04-2010, 10:46 AM)Hulkgreen when I put it back together I switched and made the return line the Diesel feed and the Gas feed the Diesel return !!!
This might also be a problem worth checking out. On several in tank fuel pumps I have taken apart, I have occasionally found little integrated invisible one way check valves between supply and return, or return alone, for various reasons. My guess was for two reasons, to maintain back pressure on the return with a return only check valve, or to bleed excess fuel pressure off in the tank with a linked check valve.
This was on a lot newer vehicles, so it could not be applicable here, but if you were to remove the pump from the plastic spring loaded cage on the first such setup and swap supply and return, the flow would be low enough to keep the check valve open while idling, but as soon as you stamped on it, it would close and shut off fuel flow.
Also, I found that when both supply and return are linked with a check valve, its ABOVE the fuel pump, sometimes way above in the cage, so if you were to again swap supply and return for this setup, the check valve could open and dump air in the return line even with a fairly full fuel tank. Ask me how I know this.
But you said you had it running fine for a while, so probably not. What year is the jeep?
(01-05-2010, 06:37 PM)Kiwibacon A turbo spitting oil is almost always a blocked oil drain or pressurised crank-case.
I pulled the breather tube out ; like was mentioned earlier !!! Please tell me more about a blocked oil drain ; where would I check this and possible correct it ?????
Wanted to give an update !! I got a chance to get a couple minutes in the garage ; my wife plugged the block heater in and the next morning my radiator was slightly warm to the touch ; so I gave it a crank and on the first crank I turned it to ON and counted to 15 to let the glow plugs warm alittle and it attempted but NO GO and on the second try I did not turn the key off before trying and it changed TONE and was not trying ; but when I turned the key OFF completely and then to ON and counted to 10 to allow the glow plugs to warm again and it started up but only for a few seconds !! I turned it OFF and then back ON and counted to 10 again and it started back up ; but died again !!
SO ; I would have to say it will not IDLE on its own !!! I am beginning to think there is something wrong with the Injection Pump or its timing , since it ran fine before removal to change the gasket ( although , I had a Mechanic who worked at a Mercedes Dealer for 15 years before he got his Mechanical Engineering Degree and opened his own shop ) did the IP install and injection timing settings ; so I assume it is correct !!!
I still should attempt to run it out of a fuel can to isolate and eliminate potential problems !!
1. Will it start with your foot pressing down on the throttle a little?
2. Is fuel getting to the lift pump?
3. is fuel getting from the lift pump to the injection pump?
4. If you crack an injector line at the injector is fuel there?
5. If there is no fuel at the injector, check the shut off circuit.
Really there are only a few things that will make these cars not run. Make sure that all of your vacuum hoses are installed correctly. Particularly the one that goes to the shutoff. It sounds to me like the shutoff valve is getting vacuum all the time. FYI there is not a check valve on the return side of a Jeep Wrangler.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http...CA8Q9QEwAw
Lincolnlock
01-08-2010, 01:33 PM #14Things to check.
1. Will it start with your foot pressing down on the throttle a little?
2. Is fuel getting to the lift pump?
3. is fuel getting from the lift pump to the injection pump?
4. If you crack an injector line at the injector is fuel there?
5. If there is no fuel at the injector, check the shut off circuit.
Really there are only a few things that will make these cars not run. Make sure that all of your vacuum hoses are installed correctly. Particularly the one that goes to the shutoff. It sounds to me like the shutoff valve is getting vacuum all the time. FYI there is not a check valve on the return side of a Jeep Wrangler.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http...CA8Q9QEwAw
answers to questions ....
1. I attempted this yesterday and it " appears " to help alittle !!
2. Yes !
3. Yes !
4. I will double check !! but, I am almost positive !!
5. I actually started staring and thinking and checked into the shut off circuit ( ie. the brown plastic hose with the blue tracer that connects to the Injection Pump ) !!
Since in the beginning my engine would NOT start at all !! I was told that the engine would NOT start without the vacuum solenoid attached to this and the solenoid run to a " keyed-ON " circuit for the JEEPS key to start the engine ! And a vacuum canister used in conjunction so the JEEPS key would turn the engine " OFF " !!
Well , I actually unplugged the vacuum port to the (brown with blue tracer plastic hose ) and it started with a little accelerator help ; and after a minute increased the RPM up to about ( approximately ) 2700-3000 RPM ; but , it then died and it smoked like a nuclear smoke stack !!!
I was impressed at first but, could not get it to stay started after that ; even with the pressing of the accelerator pedal or pumping the pedal !!!
I will try again today ; and try cracking open a couple injectors and changing the fuel filters !!!
Will keep you updated !!!!
PLEASE , KEEP THE IDEAS COMING !! IT IS MAKING PROGRESS IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION !!
(01-08-2010, 01:33 PM)Lincolnlock Things to check.
1. Will it start with your foot pressing down on the throttle a little?
2. Is fuel getting to the lift pump?
3. is fuel getting from the lift pump to the injection pump?
4. If you crack an injector line at the injector is fuel there?
5. If there is no fuel at the injector, check the shut off circuit.
Really there are only a few things that will make these cars not run. Make sure that all of your vacuum hoses are installed correctly. Particularly the one that goes to the shutoff. It sounds to me like the shutoff valve is getting vacuum all the time. FYI there is not a check valve on the return side of a Jeep Wrangler.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http...CA8Q9QEwAw
Thank YOU for your response !!
answers to questions ....
1. I attempted this yesterday and it " appears " to help alittle !!
2. Yes !
3. Yes !
4. I will double check !! but, I am almost positive !!
5. I actually started staring and thinking and checked into the shut off circuit ( ie. the brown plastic hose with the blue tracer that connects to the Injection Pump ) !!
Since in the beginning my engine would NOT start at all !! I was told that the engine would NOT start without the vacuum solenoid attached to this and the solenoid run to a " keyed-ON " circuit for the JEEPS key to start the engine ! And a vacuum canister used in conjunction so the JEEPS key would turn the engine " OFF " !!
Well , I actually unplugged the vacuum port to the (brown with blue tracer plastic hose ) and it started with a little accelerator help ; and after a minute increased the RPM up to about ( approximately ) 2700-3000 RPM ; but , it then died and it smoked like a nuclear smoke stack !!!
I was impressed at first but, could not get it to stay started after that ; even with the pressing of the accelerator pedal or pumping the pedal !!!
I will try again today ; and try cracking open a couple injectors and changing the fuel filters !!!
Will keep you updated !!!!
PLEASE , KEEP THE IDEAS COMING !! IT IS MAKING PROGRESS IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION !!
(01-08-2010, 01:33 PM)Lincolnlock Things to check.
1. Will it start with your foot pressing down on the throttle a little?
2. Is fuel getting to the lift pump?
3. is fuel getting from the lift pump to the injection pump?
4. If you crack an injector line at the injector is fuel there?
5. If there is no fuel at the injector, check the shut off circuit.
Really there are only a few things that will make these cars not run. Make sure that all of your vacuum hoses are installed correctly. Particularly the one that goes to the shutoff. It sounds to me like the shutoff valve is getting vacuum all the time. FYI there is not a check valve on the return side of a Jeep Wrangler.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http...CA8Q9QEwAw
Lincolnlock
01-10-2010, 02:26 AM #16Was the color of the smoke Black, or was it grey and white? If it was white and grey you are probably sucking air from somewhere, or you had a bunch of air in the system. Check all of your fittings and make sure they are tight and all of the hardware is attached properly. Most of the time if you are pulling air in it will be before the lift pump or the lift pump itself. Check the list again and be sure fuel is still flowing properly.
(01-10-2010, 02:26 AM)Lincolnlock Was the color of the smoke Black, or was it grey and white? If it was white and grey you are probably sucking air from somewhere, or you had a bunch of air in the system. Check all of your fittings and make sure they are tight and all of the hardware is attached properly. Most of the time if you are pulling air in it will be before the lift pump or the lift pump itself. Check the list again and be sure fuel is still flowing properly.
Now that you mention it ...... the smoke that completely engulfed the 2 car garage was greyish in color !!! I had alot on my plate with the cold weather ( that we are not used to SO MUCH FOR GLOBAL WARMING ) here in south Louisiana and keeping pipes from freezing in 7 different houses ; that I did not get a chance to play with my JEEP !! I will make an effort to check the things on your list and double check that ALL Fuel fittings are tight and not sucking air tomorrow !!
Thanks Lincolnlock
(01-10-2010, 02:26 AM)Lincolnlock Was the color of the smoke Black, or was it grey and white? If it was white and grey you are probably sucking air from somewhere, or you had a bunch of air in the system. Check all of your fittings and make sure they are tight and all of the hardware is attached properly. Most of the time if you are pulling air in it will be before the lift pump or the lift pump itself. Check the list again and be sure fuel is still flowing properly.
Now that you mention it ...... the smoke that completely engulfed the 2 car garage was greyish in color !!! I had alot on my plate with the cold weather ( that we are not used to SO MUCH FOR GLOBAL WARMING ) here in south Louisiana and keeping pipes from freezing in 7 different houses ; that I did not get a chance to play with my JEEP !! I will make an effort to check the things on your list and double check that ALL Fuel fittings are tight and not sucking air tomorrow !!
Thanks Lincolnlock
What are you using to power the glow plugs? If you're using the factory glow plug relay check the fust on it. The fuse is an exposed strip of metal with two screws holding it in, right under the cover.
It sounds like she wants to run but you might have one or two, or maybe all glow plugs not working.
Give it a go with your foot on the throttle, your linkages might be pulling the throttle to a low-idle state without some movement on the pedal. How did it idle before?
1983 300CD "Spike" Stock, as of now.
Hey man, have you unblocked the crankcase vent yet?
What are you using to power the glow plugs? If you're using the factory glow plug relay check the fust on it. The fuse is an exposed strip of metal with two screws holding it in, right under the cover.
It sounds like she wants to run but you might have one or two, or maybe all glow plugs not working.
Give it a go with your foot on the throttle, your linkages might be pulling the throttle to a low-idle state without some movement on the pedal. How did it idle before?
1983 300CD "Spike" Stock, as of now.
YES ; I am using the stock glowplug relay ( I will pull the cover and check the fuse ; since I so far have not had trouble with this !!) As I mentioned a couple posts ago ; If I turn the key all the way "OFF" ( resetting the glow plugs ) and then back to "ON" and count to 15 ; it seems to make a difference in the engines desire to start !! IF I DON'T DO IT THIS WAY ; IT QUITS TRYING AFTER THE INITIAL STARTING ATTEMPT !!!
So ; I am kinda at a loss as to why !!
(01-11-2010, 11:46 PM)Nick Hey man, have you unblocked the crankcase vent yet?
What are you using to power the glow plugs? If you're using the factory glow plug relay check the fust on it. The fuse is an exposed strip of metal with two screws holding it in, right under the cover.
It sounds like she wants to run but you might have one or two, or maybe all glow plugs not working.
Give it a go with your foot on the throttle, your linkages might be pulling the throttle to a low-idle state without some movement on the pedal. How did it idle before?
Yes ; NICK... I pulled the valve cover crankcase vent out of the drain tube !!!
YES ; I am using the stock glowplug relay ( I will pull the cover and check the fuse ; since I so far have not had trouble with this !!) As I mentioned a couple posts ago ; If I turn the key all the way "OFF" ( resetting the glow plugs ) and then back to "ON" and count to 15 ; it seems to make a difference in the engines desire to start !! IF I DON'T DO IT THIS WAY ; IT QUITS TRYING AFTER THE INITIAL STARTING ATTEMPT !!!
So ; I am kinda at a loss as to why !!
(01-11-2010, 11:46 PM)Nick Hey man, have you unblocked the crankcase vent yet?
What are you using to power the glow plugs? If you're using the factory glow plug relay check the fust on it. The fuse is an exposed strip of metal with two screws holding it in, right under the cover.
It sounds like she wants to run but you might have one or two, or maybe all glow plugs not working.
Give it a go with your foot on the throttle, your linkages might be pulling the throttle to a low-idle state without some movement on the pedal. How did it idle before?
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