my 240d turbo needs more fuel???
my 240d turbo needs more fuel???
I tried running the turbo injectors and it smokes at idle and is nosier with no noticeable power improvements maybe some timing could help them work better???
here is a video of it running the turbo injectors shortly before I put them back to stock http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1WtXc79Ymk
I tried the putting on an ALDA to work with the turbo. But being a non wast gated turbo it never added enough fuel to spin the turbo 0psi at red line and less power than with out any modification. so I had to put my ADA back on and set it to full rich just to get the turbo to spin! it will make 10psi at red line in 3-4 gear but starts adding boost over 3k rpm to late to use
If I could add some fuel it would help the turbo I think as my car doesn't smoke at all I believe it could use a bit more! people are going to think its a gaser!
I think if there was more fuel the expansion of gasses would spool the turbo a lot sooner or a smaller turbo could make more with whats already there! later plan
what are by best options of tuning the IP, TQ control? full lode adjustment? whats up with turning the delivery valves
The 240d IP should be capable of 90-100hp it shares all of its internals with the turbo WM pump right?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-26-2009, 06:09 PM #1when I added the turbo to my 240d I removed the rack limiter with not much noticeable difference!
I tried running the turbo injectors and it smokes at idle and is nosier with no noticeable power improvements maybe some timing could help them work better???
here is a video of it running the turbo injectors shortly before I put them back to stock http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1WtXc79Ymk
I tried the putting on an ALDA to work with the turbo. But being a non wast gated turbo it never added enough fuel to spin the turbo 0psi at red line and less power than with out any modification. so I had to put my ADA back on and set it to full rich just to get the turbo to spin! it will make 10psi at red line in 3-4 gear but starts adding boost over 3k rpm to late to use
If I could add some fuel it would help the turbo I think as my car doesn't smoke at all I believe it could use a bit more! people are going to think its a gaser!
I think if there was more fuel the expansion of gasses would spool the turbo a lot sooner or a smaller turbo could make more with whats already there! later plan
what are by best options of tuning the IP, TQ control? full lode adjustment? whats up with turning the delivery valves
The 240d IP should be capable of 90-100hp it shares all of its internals with the turbo WM pump right?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Have you checked fuel pressure, adjusted the relief valve spring or cleaned/replaced the lift pump check valves?
ForcedInduction
12-26-2009, 06:41 PM
#2
I think a smaller, wastegated turbo would make the most difference. There is no more full load adjustment with the rack limiter removed. Torque control adjustment could help, it will stop the governor from taking away fuel in the upper RPMs.
Have you checked fuel pressure, adjusted the relief valve spring or cleaned/replaced the lift pump check valves?
(12-26-2009, 06:09 PM)willbhere4u when I added the turbo to my 240d I removed the rack limiter with not much noticeable difference!
I am jealous of you 240D turbo guys. I have had a Liberty turbo for mine for almost two years now and every time I drive it I just itch to get it on.
It would help to know what your EGTs are at different driving conditions. I have seen High EGTs and no smoke before but that is usually under full power conditions.
I have "turned up" about half a dozen 616 (NA) IPs in the last three years, and have a pretty good feel for how each governor , (the "Governor" is make up of three separate Governors), reacts to each other when an adjustment is made to one of them.
If removing your Rack Limiter did not yield any increase in fueling, I would check your fuel supply pressure to the IP under all conditions. Your lift pimp fuel pressure should be at least 10 under FULL LOAD.
I am yet to see two 616 governors that are adjusted alike. When I am done with an 616 IP, the dash idle adjustment is not needed when the engine is first started, and the drivability is much improved, especially the bottom end, the top end is limited by a lack of air.
I am willing to bet that your governor is adjusted so soft that the Rack Limiter is/was not the limiting factor, (doing anything). What I mean is that with the current internal and external governor settings, the fly weights are over coming the Throttle Spring before reaching the Rack Limiter setting. The Rack Limiter is a mechanical stop that limits the distance the Rack can travel when the Flyweights are over come, (going from idle to full throttle should cause the Rack limiter limit the Rack as the Flyweights are not spinning fast enough at idle to overcome/regulate the Throttle spring).
It is possible that your settings are so soft that the Flyweights can overcome/regulate the Throttle Spring at all times, which would explain why you did not see any additional fueling, (the Rack Limiter may not have been doing a thing to begin with).
The 616 IP is so easy to get into that it is worth the mess to make some changes IMO. I can walk you through the process to get your IP Tuned to complement the turbo if you are interested.
(12-26-2009, 06:09 PM)willbhere4u I tried running the turbo injectors and it smokes at idle and is nosier with no noticeable power improvements maybe some timing could help them work better???
The 616s that I have tuned liked advanced timing on the bottom end, but the top end did not. With 5.5mm Elements, I would consider changing the springs in the timing controller to have it come in 100% after the engine has started. I would like to try different injectors first.
(12-26-2009, 06:09 PM)willbhere4u If I could add some fuel it would help the turbo I think as my car doesn't smoke at all I believe it could use a bit more! people are going to think its a gaser!
I think if there was more fuel the expansion of gasses would spool the turbo a lot sooner or a smaller turbo could make more with whats already there! later plan
what are by best options of tuning the IP, TQ control? full lode adjustment? whats up with turning the delivery valves
The 240d IP should be capable of 90-100hp it shares all of its internals with the turbo WM pump right?
More fuel would create more exhaust gasses which would help spool the turbo up faster.
(12-26-2009, 06:09 PM)willbhere4u when I added the turbo to my 240d I removed the rack limiter with not much noticeable difference!
I am jealous of you 240D turbo guys. I have had a Liberty turbo for mine for almost two years now and every time I drive it I just itch to get it on.
It would help to know what your EGTs are at different driving conditions. I have seen High EGTs and no smoke before but that is usually under full power conditions.
I have "turned up" about half a dozen 616 (NA) IPs in the last three years, and have a pretty good feel for how each governor , (the "Governor" is make up of three separate Governors), reacts to each other when an adjustment is made to one of them.
If removing your Rack Limiter did not yield any increase in fueling, I would check your fuel supply pressure to the IP under all conditions. Your lift pimp fuel pressure should be at least 10 under FULL LOAD.
I am yet to see two 616 governors that are adjusted alike. When I am done with an 616 IP, the dash idle adjustment is not needed when the engine is first started, and the drivability is much improved, especially the bottom end, the top end is limited by a lack of air.
I am willing to bet that your governor is adjusted so soft that the Rack Limiter is/was not the limiting factor, (doing anything). What I mean is that with the current internal and external governor settings, the fly weights are over coming the Throttle Spring before reaching the Rack Limiter setting. The Rack Limiter is a mechanical stop that limits the distance the Rack can travel when the Flyweights are over come, (going from idle to full throttle should cause the Rack limiter limit the Rack as the Flyweights are not spinning fast enough at idle to overcome/regulate the Throttle spring).
It is possible that your settings are so soft that the Flyweights can overcome/regulate the Throttle Spring at all times, which would explain why you did not see any additional fueling, (the Rack Limiter may not have been doing a thing to begin with).
The 616 IP is so easy to get into that it is worth the mess to make some changes IMO. I can walk you through the process to get your IP Tuned to complement the turbo if you are interested.
(12-26-2009, 06:09 PM)willbhere4u I tried running the turbo injectors and it smokes at idle and is nosier with no noticeable power improvements maybe some timing could help them work better???
The 616s that I have tuned liked advanced timing on the bottom end, but the top end did not. With 5.5mm Elements, I would consider changing the springs in the timing controller to have it come in 100% after the engine has started. I would like to try different injectors first.
(12-26-2009, 06:09 PM)willbhere4u If I could add some fuel it would help the turbo I think as my car doesn't smoke at all I believe it could use a bit more! people are going to think its a gaser!
I think if there was more fuel the expansion of gasses would spool the turbo a lot sooner or a smaller turbo could make more with whats already there! later plan
what are by best options of tuning the IP, TQ control? full lode adjustment? whats up with turning the delivery valves
The 240d IP should be capable of 90-100hp it shares all of its internals with the turbo WM pump right?
More fuel would create more exhaust gasses which would help spool the turbo up faster.
what dose rotating the DV holder do?
my EGT's running 80-85 on the highway at red line full 10psi boost up a long hill will hit 1100deg after 1-2 minutes normally between 600-900 driving! Idle is about 400deg it will take a few min to drop down to 300 and 5-10 to get to 250deg minimum
I need to make a heat shield between my turbo and intake as the intake is usually to hot to touch for about 1-2hr after the car is shut off
I want to make a custom exhaust elbow to fit a new turbo I'm am leaning towards using a Subaru turbocharger as they are clocked the way I want! either a TD04 or IHI vf11 although I cant find rebuild kits for the vf11??? I want something that can support 11-12 psi efficiently and spool earlier with the lower exhaust pressures of the 616 some of the wrx turbo come up cheaply as well
When I do the engine swap I was planing on grabbing the pump off my non turbo 1980 240d. I believe it is in better shape it starts on all cylinders with no compression or oil pressure and no maitnence ! 300k miles and still going and it will puff a little
The biggest thing I notice is this car has always started on 3 of its 4 cylinders even before the turbo?? It has awesome compression and new glow plugs/rebuilt injectors, valve adjustment and a very recent engine rebuild!
I plan on rebuilding my 300k mile 616 with turbo rods and pistons and oil squirters I may look in to swapping the oil pumps as well??? and maybe hardening the crank and putting some turbo valves in it. But I want to get some real power if I go through all of that work I don't think it will cost much just some machine work as I have all of the parts for the rebuild already! I bet a rebuilt injection pump with 7.5 mm elements would kick ass but would cost more than the engine itself
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-27-2009, 02:30 PM #5I guess I'll have to start with checking my lift pump and check ball's where do you guy's add the pressure gauge in?
what dose rotating the DV holder do?
my EGT's running 80-85 on the highway at red line full 10psi boost up a long hill will hit 1100deg after 1-2 minutes normally between 600-900 driving! Idle is about 400deg it will take a few min to drop down to 300 and 5-10 to get to 250deg minimum
I need to make a heat shield between my turbo and intake as the intake is usually to hot to touch for about 1-2hr after the car is shut off
I want to make a custom exhaust elbow to fit a new turbo I'm am leaning towards using a Subaru turbocharger as they are clocked the way I want! either a TD04 or IHI vf11 although I cant find rebuild kits for the vf11??? I want something that can support 11-12 psi efficiently and spool earlier with the lower exhaust pressures of the 616 some of the wrx turbo come up cheaply as well
When I do the engine swap I was planing on grabbing the pump off my non turbo 1980 240d. I believe it is in better shape it starts on all cylinders with no compression or oil pressure and no maitnence ! 300k miles and still going and it will puff a little
The biggest thing I notice is this car has always started on 3 of its 4 cylinders even before the turbo?? It has awesome compression and new glow plugs/rebuilt injectors, valve adjustment and a very recent engine rebuild!
I plan on rebuilding my 300k mile 616 with turbo rods and pistons and oil squirters I may look in to swapping the oil pumps as well??? and maybe hardening the crank and putting some turbo valves in it. But I want to get some real power if I go through all of that work I don't think it will cost much just some machine work as I have all of the parts for the rebuild already! I bet a rebuilt injection pump with 7.5 mm elements would kick ass but would cost more than the engine itself
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
GREASY_BEAST
12-28-2009, 12:11 AM #6Just to throw the idea into the mix, there are plenty of 4cyl diesel IPs available from engines such as Cummins, Isuzu, VW, etc with far more (cheap) tuning potential than the 616 pump... Mounting one to a 616 would be non-trivial, yet well within the abilities of many people here.
(12-27-2009, 02:30 PM)willbhere4u where do you guy's add the pressure gauge in?I added mine to the filter inlet side of the banjo bolt, right after the lift pump. The outlet of the base will have a pressure drop from the filter restriction.
Quote:what dose rotating the DV holder do?Basically the same thing as removing the rack limiter or adjusting the full load screw. It changes the spill port location to were it closes later than normal.
Quote:my EGT's running 80-85 on the highway at red line full 10psi boost up a long hill will hit 1100deg after 1-2 minutes normally between 600-900 driving! Idle is about 400deg it will take a few min to drop down to 300 and 5-10 to get to 250deg minimumOther than taking a long time to get hot, it sounds normal. Both of my cars take about 15 seconds to get around 1200*f.
Quote:I want something that can support 11-12 psi efficiently and spool earlier with the lower exhaust pressures of the 616 some of the wrx turbo come up cheaply as wellThere is a Holset HX30 on eBay right now. That would be as laggy as your rajay, but it would be decent for a 617.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...0529255596
ForcedInduction
12-28-2009, 11:01 AM
#7
(12-27-2009, 02:30 PM)willbhere4u where do you guy's add the pressure gauge in?I added mine to the filter inlet side of the banjo bolt, right after the lift pump. The outlet of the base will have a pressure drop from the filter restriction.
Quote:what dose rotating the DV holder do?Basically the same thing as removing the rack limiter or adjusting the full load screw. It changes the spill port location to were it closes later than normal.
Quote:my EGT's running 80-85 on the highway at red line full 10psi boost up a long hill will hit 1100deg after 1-2 minutes normally between 600-900 driving! Idle is about 400deg it will take a few min to drop down to 300 and 5-10 to get to 250deg minimumOther than taking a long time to get hot, it sounds normal. Both of my cars take about 15 seconds to get around 1200*f.
Quote:I want something that can support 11-12 psi efficiently and spool earlier with the lower exhaust pressures of the 616 some of the wrx turbo come up cheaply as wellThere is a Holset HX30 on eBay right now. That would be as laggy as your rajay, but it would be decent for a 617.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...0529255596
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-28-2009, 06:47 PM #8some day an HY-HX30 would be nice but I would need propane and nitrous just to get it to spool up!!!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
It's a curiosity from another automotive age. It'd be better cleaned up and sold on Ebay, you'd probably fetch enough for a VGT and a modified 617a exhaust manifold. Or just put aside if it's something you just kind of geek out on, after all they don't grow on trees, it's more of a vintage show item than a practical turbo kit for modern (or probably any other, to be truthful) driving. Even wastegated turbos are usually seen as laggy by modern standards, I can only imagine what it's like waiting for that power to come on, even with a properly tuned pump.
One of those Holsets would be a complete waste unless you had the fuel to match. Although, I'll say this: I've yet to see someone run cut DVs and a big, fat turbo to feed that flood. All I heard was 'not enough air', which is the opposite of the problem we have with stock DVs! So why hasn't someone put 2 and 2 together? Although, I can't say I'm going to pony up my money for a turbo that might still be laughably laggy on a stupidly rich motor with sky-high EGTs. Too bad none of us have one we could borrow to experiment with.
I'm going to find a K26 and use modified stock 617a manifolds on my turbo 616. Next week I'm going to see how much the parts list would come to at PAP, what they have in the yard right now and when their next 1/2 off day is. Since I want to reuse the 616 even if I magically find enough money for my fantasy V8 swap, and since said swap would take awhile to save for, I might as well have a nice middle point, and it may prove just enough. Who knows, since I've yet to see a turbo 616 truly pushed, what some wrenching might achieve, since it's been pointed out that there are a ton of four cylinder IP designs vs, what, four 5 cylinder pump designs, ever, in the entire universe? I'm exaggerating, of course, but it's not that far off from the truth. If we really wanted to see what this motor is capable of holding, we'd take a decent condition example, hone the cylinders, new rings, pistons, and bearings, and bolt a turbo to it and see how long it takes until it blows. It might be less than the 617a, but we'll know, because you can actually get a pump that will allow such power levels to be produced without paying 2k for a Myna or running cut DVs and the resultant EGTs that would skew any kind of reliability data.
Granted, there are reasons on paper why the 617a should be pursued, but there's people over at Benzworld that are saying, right now, that what Forced has done, or the Finns, is impossible, that the car wasn't designed as a performance car but as a luxo barge for rich old German Industrialist grannies, that the manual swap on a 300D shouldn't be pursued for X Y and Z reasons, that cutting springs will ruin the ride and handling (BS on both accounts in my opinion), etc, etc. It's fine to be skeptical, and essential even, but unless you really know the subject front to back (and, correct me if I'm wrong, but none of use would exactly count as a '616 turbo guru' - and if I am wrong, please step forward and teach us), then the 'it won't work' POV is as untested as 'it will work'.
CID Vicious
12-29-2009, 05:03 AM #9I don't know about your flange pattern on that Rajay kit, but a K26 would be easy to find on lots of 300D and 300SD cars, and would spool up way faster than the non-wastegated Rajay. Even a T3, anything with a wastegate. I think tuning your pump for that ancient and, even by early 80's standards, completely outdated turbo is going to be a waste of time because that turbo is never going to give you the response you want.
It's a curiosity from another automotive age. It'd be better cleaned up and sold on Ebay, you'd probably fetch enough for a VGT and a modified 617a exhaust manifold. Or just put aside if it's something you just kind of geek out on, after all they don't grow on trees, it's more of a vintage show item than a practical turbo kit for modern (or probably any other, to be truthful) driving. Even wastegated turbos are usually seen as laggy by modern standards, I can only imagine what it's like waiting for that power to come on, even with a properly tuned pump.
One of those Holsets would be a complete waste unless you had the fuel to match. Although, I'll say this: I've yet to see someone run cut DVs and a big, fat turbo to feed that flood. All I heard was 'not enough air', which is the opposite of the problem we have with stock DVs! So why hasn't someone put 2 and 2 together? Although, I can't say I'm going to pony up my money for a turbo that might still be laughably laggy on a stupidly rich motor with sky-high EGTs. Too bad none of us have one we could borrow to experiment with.
I'm going to find a K26 and use modified stock 617a manifolds on my turbo 616. Next week I'm going to see how much the parts list would come to at PAP, what they have in the yard right now and when their next 1/2 off day is. Since I want to reuse the 616 even if I magically find enough money for my fantasy V8 swap, and since said swap would take awhile to save for, I might as well have a nice middle point, and it may prove just enough. Who knows, since I've yet to see a turbo 616 truly pushed, what some wrenching might achieve, since it's been pointed out that there are a ton of four cylinder IP designs vs, what, four 5 cylinder pump designs, ever, in the entire universe? I'm exaggerating, of course, but it's not that far off from the truth. If we really wanted to see what this motor is capable of holding, we'd take a decent condition example, hone the cylinders, new rings, pistons, and bearings, and bolt a turbo to it and see how long it takes until it blows. It might be less than the 617a, but we'll know, because you can actually get a pump that will allow such power levels to be produced without paying 2k for a Myna or running cut DVs and the resultant EGTs that would skew any kind of reliability data.
Granted, there are reasons on paper why the 617a should be pursued, but there's people over at Benzworld that are saying, right now, that what Forced has done, or the Finns, is impossible, that the car wasn't designed as a performance car but as a luxo barge for rich old German Industrialist grannies, that the manual swap on a 300D shouldn't be pursued for X Y and Z reasons, that cutting springs will ruin the ride and handling (BS on both accounts in my opinion), etc, etc. It's fine to be skeptical, and essential even, but unless you really know the subject front to back (and, correct me if I'm wrong, but none of use would exactly count as a '616 turbo guru' - and if I am wrong, please step forward and teach us), then the 'it won't work' POV is as untested as 'it will work'.
(12-29-2009, 05:03 AM)CID Vicious All I heard was 'not enough air', which is the opposite of the problem we have with stock DVs! So why hasn't someone put 2 and 2 together?Air isn't much the issue, its injecting too long and late into the cycle to burn and make power.
ForcedInduction
12-29-2009, 07:16 AM
#10
(12-29-2009, 05:03 AM)CID Vicious All I heard was 'not enough air', which is the opposite of the problem we have with stock DVs! So why hasn't someone put 2 and 2 together?Air isn't much the issue, its injecting too long and late into the cycle to burn and make power.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-29-2009, 09:40 PM #11I have a spare 617 turbo exhaust manifold and could easily get another k26 turbo that's plan B I would band saw off the last cylinder port and weld up a blank out plate just need to find some one that can weld cast iron!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Seeing as how you already have all of that, going with the five cylinder manifold might be more work than it's worth, since you could have a shop fab up a similar adapter to the early 240D exhaust you already have, it'd be the same basic design just with the proper flange for the turbo you want. I'm waiting to see how much a K26 from the yard is, someone from the forum offered up a used T3 in need of a rebuild and if I get that, I might just go with it since they have a bigger top end and I'd get to rebuild my first turbo. I don't know how much they'd go for at PAP, I'll see next week. Might go browse eBay and see what some VGTs are going for, though. I'll have to see what happens.
CID Vicious
12-29-2009, 10:11 PM #12I'm not sure of what the guy I saw using the five cylinder manifold used to plug it, but it worked perfectly and didn't look all that out of place. Cutting the excess and welding would work, but so would some minor surface prep and a tube of Qwiksteel. I think the main benefit as I see it is being able to use the 617a intake, which is readily available at the yard, should be easy enough to cut and plug, and requires no extra tubing.
Seeing as how you already have all of that, going with the five cylinder manifold might be more work than it's worth, since you could have a shop fab up a similar adapter to the early 240D exhaust you already have, it'd be the same basic design just with the proper flange for the turbo you want. I'm waiting to see how much a K26 from the yard is, someone from the forum offered up a used T3 in need of a rebuild and if I get that, I might just go with it since they have a bigger top end and I'd get to rebuild my first turbo. I don't know how much they'd go for at PAP, I'll see next week. Might go browse eBay and see what some VGTs are going for, though. I'll have to see what happens.
As for the exhaust manifold, I am going to use the one that is on my 78 240D. It has the log type, (I would prefer the ram horn type though), that dumps out the rear. The turbo will fit very nicely, needing only a 45ish degree elbow adaptor and a support to keep the weight off the manifold. The compressor and turbine housings can be clocked if needed as well.
Regarding your EGTs, I agree with FI that they are in the normal range, but are very slow to reach. Personally, I would not hesitate to through more fuel at it through the entire range. More fuel on the bottom end will spool the turbo sooner, which will help keep the EGTs down to where they are now, (in theory). If this was a NA motor, I would increase the fuel a touch but focus mainly on the fueling curve to increase bottom end and mid range performance.
I would first check your lift pump pressure. When that is good, then it is time to start turning screws.
I bought a 2056 (VNT) turbo from a jeep liberty with only 20K miles on for $150.00. I have another one for parts, it is missing the ring that moves the vain arms. I think I paid $20.00 for it. It would be well worth the time to do some hunting for a VNT.
As for the exhaust manifold, I am going to use the one that is on my 78 240D. It has the log type, (I would prefer the ram horn type though), that dumps out the rear. The turbo will fit very nicely, needing only a 45ish degree elbow adaptor and a support to keep the weight off the manifold. The compressor and turbine housings can be clocked if needed as well.
Regarding your EGTs, I agree with FI that they are in the normal range, but are very slow to reach. Personally, I would not hesitate to through more fuel at it through the entire range. More fuel on the bottom end will spool the turbo sooner, which will help keep the EGTs down to where they are now, (in theory). If this was a NA motor, I would increase the fuel a touch but focus mainly on the fueling curve to increase bottom end and mid range performance.
I would first check your lift pump pressure. When that is good, then it is time to start turning screws.
If I can walk with a (seemingly) good K26 for about 50, I might go with that. Over and above that, though, and it would seem that a VGT is the way to go.
From what I understand, the VGT tech isn't really the hot item for the gas crowd (too much boost too early), so aside from people wanting spares for their Liberty there aren't too many people looking to pick these up - which is good, since that drives prices up.
CID Vicious
12-30-2009, 05:46 PM #14Yeah, I'm a little phobic of setting up the VGT, but I think I'm going to get a sticker shock when I visit PAP for the turbo. I'm pretty sure you'd pay as much for a VGT as an old non-wastegated job off of an old Corvair, though I haven't perused the late model section yet, either. There just might be a Liberty or Sprinter wrecked in the yard for all I know.
If I can walk with a (seemingly) good K26 for about 50, I might go with that. Over and above that, though, and it would seem that a VGT is the way to go.
From what I understand, the VGT tech isn't really the hot item for the gas crowd (too much boost too early), so aside from people wanting spares for their Liberty there aren't too many people looking to pick these up - which is good, since that drives prices up.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-30-2009, 10:28 PM #15I picked up my last k26 at pull n save for $27 cleaned it up and bolted it on works perfect love the way it spools on a well tuned 300d
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-31-2009, 02:52 PM #17I was going to try and set the timing to see if it would run the turbo injectors better!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
My rule of thumb is, when a stock part becomes a bottleneck to more power, it's time to replace it - otherwise it's just tossing parts at a motor and hoping some of them do something.
CID Vicious
12-31-2009, 05:02 PM #18The turbo injectors, from what I've heard, are capable of handling the fueling needs of even a full-tilt Finn built 617a. The NA models should be more than capable of handling the ~110 hp the pump's stock elements would support.
My rule of thumb is, when a stock part becomes a bottleneck to more power, it's time to replace it - otherwise it's just tossing parts at a motor and hoping some of them do something.
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