ForcedInduction's 1980 240D 3.0T
ForcedInduction's 1980 240D 3.0T
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1980 240D 3.0VNT
WDB12312310192539
USA model
Exterior color code 623- Light Ivory
Interior color code 134- Date MBTex
Engine- OM617.952
Transmission- 4-speed all-iron manual, early model
Turbocharger- Garrett T3-45, 14psi boost
Air filtration- Fram 8037
Fuel filtration: Baldwin BF7591-D (2-micron) secondary fuel filter (4-5-09)
Engine Oil- Mobil1 5W-40 synthetic
Oil filtration- Stock, Amsoil Ea-BP90 bypass oil filter
Exhaust- 300D system with resonator and muffler removed (8-23-09).
Injectors- Stock 240/ nozzles, balanced within 1 bar
Fuel rack limiter removed, but linkage stop bolt extended to limit power for longevity with the bad bearing.
ALDA removed
W115 300D intake manifold
Non-EGR exhaust manifold from a W116 300SD
Air conditioning eliminated
3.07 differential
Battery relocated to the trunk
Pre-turbo ISSPRO pyrometer
15psi VDO boost gauge
3-piece euro rear bumper
Trunk triangle
Water/Methanol injection
On board air system and air horns
Battery relocated to the trunk, dual batteries (11-09-2010)
11-2010
ForcedInduction
07-05-2008, 04:41 AM
#1
1980 240D 3.0VNT
WDB12312310192539
USA model
Exterior color code 623- Light Ivory
Interior color code 134- Date MBTex
Engine- OM617.952
Transmission- 4-speed all-iron manual, early model
Turbocharger- Garrett T3-45, 14psi boost
Air filtration- Fram 8037
Fuel filtration: Baldwin BF7591-D (2-micron) secondary fuel filter (4-5-09)
Engine Oil- Mobil1 5W-40 synthetic
Oil filtration- Stock, Amsoil Ea-BP90 bypass oil filter
Exhaust- 300D system with resonator and muffler removed (8-23-09).
Injectors- Stock 240/ nozzles, balanced within 1 bar
Fuel rack limiter removed, but linkage stop bolt extended to limit power for longevity with the bad bearing.
ALDA removed
W115 300D intake manifold
Non-EGR exhaust manifold from a W116 300SD
Air conditioning eliminated
3.07 differential
Battery relocated to the trunk
Pre-turbo ISSPRO pyrometer
15psi VDO boost gauge
3-piece euro rear bumper
Trunk triangle
Water/Methanol injection
On board air system and air horns
Battery relocated to the trunk, dual batteries (11-09-2010)
11-2010
The vacuum actuator controlling boost based on load works great and I rarely hammer down so the intercooler isn't really useful to me. I've removed it in favor of even better turbo response.
As a result, the dual air filters are no longer necessary since the air tubes are gone. I've installed a single Fram 8038 air filter with 3" induction tube all the way to the turbo inlet as well as a better and remote installed (easier to view) Filter Minder. The 8038 filter is the same surface dimensions as the old pair of filters but it has a much larger filtering surface area from more folds.
Eventually I plan to install a shield to isolate it from the engine/radiator heat.
[attachment=1]<!-- ia1 -->LMN 8038 air filter P9153640.jpg<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment][attachment=0]<!-- ia0 -->LMN 8038 air filter P9153646.jpg<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment]
ForcedInduction
09-16-2008, 01:14 AM
#2
Update.
The vacuum actuator controlling boost based on load works great and I rarely hammer down so the intercooler isn't really useful to me. I've removed it in favor of even better turbo response.
As a result, the dual air filters are no longer necessary since the air tubes are gone. I've installed a single Fram 8038 air filter with 3" induction tube all the way to the turbo inlet as well as a better and remote installed (easier to view) Filter Minder. The 8038 filter is the same surface dimensions as the old pair of filters but it has a much larger filtering surface area from more folds.
Eventually I plan to install a shield to isolate it from the engine/radiator heat.
[attachment=1]<!-- ia1 -->LMN 8038 air filter P9153640.jpg<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment][attachment=0]<!-- ia0 -->LMN 8038 air filter P9153646.jpg<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment]
ForcedInduction
02-11-2009, 05:14 AM
#3
New engine bay shot. Up next is installation of a Kalifornia air filter system.
ForcedInduction
02-12-2009, 04:22 AM
#5
Nope. I don't run it hard enough for one to do much more than add lag.
(02-12-2009, 04:22 AM)ForcedInduction Nope. I don't run it hard enough for one to do much more than add lag.
How long was the piping to the intercooler? You think shorter piping would of helped? I've been holding off on my A to A IC project for sometime, this seems to be good info. It gets too hot here 100 degrees plus, that the car bogs down during the summer.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-08-2009, 05:54 PM #6(02-12-2009, 04:22 AM)ForcedInduction Nope. I don't run it hard enough for one to do much more than add lag.
How long was the piping to the intercooler? You think shorter piping would of helped? I've been holding off on my A to A IC project for sometime, this seems to be good info. It gets too hot here 100 degrees plus, that the car bogs down during the summer.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
ForcedInduction
03-08-2009, 06:00 PM
#7
About 5 feet total. It will help but I made it as short as possible. I'm going A-W on my 300D.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-08-2009, 06:06 PM #8You going with Bryan's A-W setup?
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
ForcedInduction
03-08-2009, 06:09 PM
#9
Similar but in a different location, a cold air intake and a Holset.
ForcedInduction
05-18-2009, 06:12 AM
#10
Got the 3.46 swapped for a 3.07. 1st gear acceleration actually seems quicker but 4th feels luggy more often.
As it sits now.
ForcedInduction
07-20-2009, 02:58 AM
#11
The GT2256V is off the engine, to be swapped onto the 300D. The 300's Garrett T3 will go on the 240.
As it sits now.
ForcedInduction
10-08-2009, 01:41 AM
#12
The T3 turbo is on, the engine runs well besides the knock and its ready for winter work. I also backed the throttle stop all the way out to limit power.
The nut came off the transmission tailshaft and the whole thing slid off the main gear shaft. Luckily it happened while pulling into a parking lot and not on the highway!
As luck would also have it, the whole thing happened next door to Heidelberg Motors and they were kind enough to loan me a deep 30mm socket and torque wrench to reset the nut. Their shop dog was nice enough to bite my ankle too...
ForcedInduction
02-23-2010, 11:47 PM
#13
Big surprise today, the driveshaft fell out!
The nut came off the transmission tailshaft and the whole thing slid off the main gear shaft. Luckily it happened while pulling into a parking lot and not on the highway!
As luck would also have it, the whole thing happened next door to Heidelberg Motors and they were kind enough to loan me a deep 30mm socket and torque wrench to reset the nut. Their shop dog was nice enough to bite my ankle too...
1- 340
2- 225
3- 340
4- 345
5- 345
Unlike the 300D which nails on the low cylinder and shakes a bit, this engine runs great despite the low cylinder (and the knocking wrist pin) so that low cylinder really came as a shock. I even changed the schrader valve in the tester because I thought it was an error.
Its averaging 26.4mpg and 35mpg on pure highway.
ForcedInduction
09-26-2010, 09:10 PM
#14
Compression cold
1- 340
2- 225
3- 340
4- 345
5- 345
Unlike the 300D which nails on the low cylinder and shakes a bit, this engine runs great despite the low cylinder (and the knocking wrist pin) so that low cylinder really came as a shock. I even changed the schrader valve in the tester because I thought it was an error.
Its averaging 26.4mpg and 35mpg on pure highway.
Also, last weekend I did the rear-battery conversion and installed the W115 manifold to get rid of that nasty EGR log.
ForcedInduction
11-14-2010, 07:52 AM
#15
Finally got around to replacing my bent left tierod, only to find the wheel bearings were thoroughly trashed by the curb impact as well. Cleaned and repacked it to drive home but it looks like I'll be driving the 300D this fall until I can find a new hub.
Also, last weekend I did the rear-battery conversion and installed the W115 manifold to get rid of that nasty EGR log.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-14-2010, 12:46 PM #16I'll keep my eye out at the pick and pull yards for some hubs when we go looking for some calipers for my dads 83 300d
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
The calipers are still there and the hoses are in good condition.
ForcedInduction
11-14-2010, 02:30 PM
#17
I've got the ones off that euro 82 300D at pull-n-pay. It had new rotors and pads so $40 for the pair was pretty reasonable.
The calipers are still there and the hoses are in good condition.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-14-2010, 06:13 PM #18good to know!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
ForcedInduction
11-14-2010, 08:13 PM
#19
Well, since that 300D was a euro with ABS nobody open Sundays carries the smaller wheel seal. Normal size is 70mm OD and ABS hubs need 67.5mm OD. Tom Judd found one in his parts bin but no twin, I'll have to get one from Westminster MB on Monday.
I bet the RH front one on my 300sdl looks like that it's a noise son bitch
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-18-2010, 12:29 PM #21AH it's fine just needs to be repacked lol!
I bet the RH front one on my 300sdl looks like that it's a noise son bitch
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
As a note, the cut 240D shifter rods will not clear the damper.
ForcedInduction
12-11-2010, 08:48 AM
#22
I added the driveline damper that was originally on the 300D I got my driveshaft from. It doesn't alter vibration (other than its pitch) when the engine is lugged 1000-1600rpm, but above 1600rpm its noticeably smoother when accelerating (especially at highway speeds).
As a note, the cut 240D shifter rods will not clear the damper.
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