STD Tuning Engine Aftermark Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Aftermark Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Aftermark Fuel Pressure Regulator.

 
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dartrpm
K26-2

31
11-24-2009, 06:07 PM #1
Has anyone put any thought into modifying an after market fuel pressure regulator to replace the fuel pressure relief valve?

It seems that with the spring needing to be stretched, and the lack of replacement parts available, a tunable after market device may be of some gain. The issue would be finding one with enough adjustment and not to expensive.

My initial looking around has shown that he average regulator's range is either 4-9 psi or 30-60 psi.

The FSM states that the relief spring runs around .9 bar at idle and 1.3 bar running. this is roughly 13 psi. and 19 psi Which is both above and below the standard range of regulators. I came across a few regulators in this range but they cost about $125-150. Which is more than I am looking to spend on this idea.

Any thoughts on this?
dartrpm
11-24-2009, 06:07 PM #1

Has anyone put any thought into modifying an after market fuel pressure regulator to replace the fuel pressure relief valve?

It seems that with the spring needing to be stretched, and the lack of replacement parts available, a tunable after market device may be of some gain. The issue would be finding one with enough adjustment and not to expensive.

My initial looking around has shown that he average regulator's range is either 4-9 psi or 30-60 psi.

The FSM states that the relief spring runs around .9 bar at idle and 1.3 bar running. this is roughly 13 psi. and 19 psi Which is both above and below the standard range of regulators. I came across a few regulators in this range but they cost about $125-150. Which is more than I am looking to spend on this idea.

Any thoughts on this?

GREASY_BEAST
Holset

411
11-24-2009, 06:43 PM #2
(11-24-2009, 06:07 PM)dartrpm Has anyone put any thought into modifying an after market fuel pressure regulator to replace the fuel pressure relief valve?

It seems that with the spring needing to be stretched, and the lack of replacement parts available, a tunable after market device may be of some gain. The issue would be finding one with enough adjustment and not to expensive.

My initial looking around has shown that he average regulator's range is either 4-9 psi or 30-60 psi.

The FSM states that the relief spring runs around .9 bar at idle and 1.3 bar running. this is roughly 13 psi. and 19 psi Which is both above and below the standard range of regulators. I came across a few regulators in this range but they cost about $125-150. Which is more than I am looking to spend on this idea.

Any thoughts on this?

Rather than stretching the spring, just get a bigger one.. Also, the 30psi pressure valve bolt thingy from a Cummins' A-Pump might fit in the hole on the MW... Its worth a look, in any case, because they aren't all that expensive. I can't imagine what, if any, the negative effects of increasing the pressure 10psi might be. The only thing I would worry about would be increased wear on the IP camshaft due to the extra force from the lift pump.
GREASY_BEAST
11-24-2009, 06:43 PM #2

(11-24-2009, 06:07 PM)dartrpm Has anyone put any thought into modifying an after market fuel pressure regulator to replace the fuel pressure relief valve?

It seems that with the spring needing to be stretched, and the lack of replacement parts available, a tunable after market device may be of some gain. The issue would be finding one with enough adjustment and not to expensive.

My initial looking around has shown that he average regulator's range is either 4-9 psi or 30-60 psi.

The FSM states that the relief spring runs around .9 bar at idle and 1.3 bar running. this is roughly 13 psi. and 19 psi Which is both above and below the standard range of regulators. I came across a few regulators in this range but they cost about $125-150. Which is more than I am looking to spend on this idea.

Any thoughts on this?

Rather than stretching the spring, just get a bigger one.. Also, the 30psi pressure valve bolt thingy from a Cummins' A-Pump might fit in the hole on the MW... Its worth a look, in any case, because they aren't all that expensive. I can't imagine what, if any, the negative effects of increasing the pressure 10psi might be. The only thing I would worry about would be increased wear on the IP camshaft due to the extra force from the lift pump.

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
11-24-2009, 09:21 PM #3
A $10 turbo "adjustable boost valve" is exactly the same thing as the relief valve on the pump.

All a regulator is is a ball valve with a calibrated spring pressure.
ForcedInduction
11-24-2009, 09:21 PM #3

A $10 turbo "adjustable boost valve" is exactly the same thing as the relief valve on the pump.

All a regulator is is a ball valve with a calibrated spring pressure.

GREASY_BEAST
Holset

411
11-24-2009, 09:45 PM #4
(11-24-2009, 09:21 PM)ForcedInduction A $10 turbo "adjustable boost valve" is exactly the same thing as the relief valve on the pump.

All a regulator is is a ball valve with a calibrated spring pressure.

If you use one of those for fuel it will leak (I'm sure you know this, just putting it out there).
GREASY_BEAST
11-24-2009, 09:45 PM #4

(11-24-2009, 09:21 PM)ForcedInduction A $10 turbo "adjustable boost valve" is exactly the same thing as the relief valve on the pump.

All a regulator is is a ball valve with a calibrated spring pressure.

If you use one of those for fuel it will leak (I'm sure you know this, just putting it out there).

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
11-24-2009, 10:38 PM #5
Those sold for turbos usually have a vent hole to release air from the actuator, you'd have to plug that.

Why go to the trouble? Every 240D and 300D in the junkyards has one, hell, I have 3 of them in my miscellaneous drawer right here at home!

Tuning is a matter of installing a pressure gauge on the outlet side of the filter and either stretching the spring or installing different strength springs until you get the desired pressure. You don't even have to remove the hose or the banjo bolt, just the spring cap.
ForcedInduction
11-24-2009, 10:38 PM #5

Those sold for turbos usually have a vent hole to release air from the actuator, you'd have to plug that.

Why go to the trouble? Every 240D and 300D in the junkyards has one, hell, I have 3 of them in my miscellaneous drawer right here at home!

Tuning is a matter of installing a pressure gauge on the outlet side of the filter and either stretching the spring or installing different strength springs until you get the desired pressure. You don't even have to remove the hose or the banjo bolt, just the spring cap.

 
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