So I take the turbo motors are more sensitive to air in the lines...
So I take the turbo motors are more sensitive to air in the lines...
Anyway, like I said I'm supposing the turbo motors are more sensitive to having a little air in the lines than the NA motors. My 240D will start right up after a few pumps and gets back to normal power very quickly, and I haven't even been loosening the fitting on top of the filter to do so. I guess the easygoing nature of the 240D has me spoiled...I'm almost kind of hesitant to cannibalize it for the manual swap for the turbo car, but hell, if I can convert the turbo car I can acquire some more components for the 240D from the junkyard and get it rolling again. Screw throwing the auto in that thing, though, I hate autos...
CID Vicious
11-21-2009, 02:16 PM #1Almost ran out of fuel on the 300D last night. Thankfully I caught it before I had a walk to take. Kept it running at the pump, revved it in park and it seemed fine...no power though, no response. Almost did it when I first bought the car too, had to give the primer pump a few pumps first though. Didn't do that this time...I'm going to go out and bleed it and see, I don't see another reason for it to suddenly lose power.
Anyway, like I said I'm supposing the turbo motors are more sensitive to having a little air in the lines than the NA motors. My 240D will start right up after a few pumps and gets back to normal power very quickly, and I haven't even been loosening the fitting on top of the filter to do so. I guess the easygoing nature of the 240D has me spoiled...I'm almost kind of hesitant to cannibalize it for the manual swap for the turbo car, but hell, if I can convert the turbo car I can acquire some more components for the 240D from the junkyard and get it rolling again. Screw throwing the auto in that thing, though, I hate autos...
The turbo cars aren't just new to me, any 123 with an auto essentially is. So I'm learning a little more about what needs to be done, it's a little harder to get a 722 to hold the right gear and use the gears to kind of force the motor to respond. Not only is the auto not great for this, from what I recall the stall speed is something like 2500rpm or more? Might be fine for drag racing...
Eh, last night was just shit anyway, lost my regular set of keys and I have no idea where (300D's key is off the ring and I didn't need the rest to start the car wherever it was that I lost them!), had to bust a window to get into the house even after going back to every store I went to and asking the employees about lost keys and checking the lots near where I'd parked...if I was a little more calm I probably would have figured the problem out sooner, though I might have to check into the lift pump just to be sure.
CID Vicious
11-21-2009, 04:36 PM #3Well, that's it, I didn't prime the pump, I left it running while I refilled the tank and assumed it would work itself out like the 240D does. Once I pumped the primer pump three times this morning (again, not touching a fitting up top for a proper bleed) it started up right away and responded like it should.
The turbo cars aren't just new to me, any 123 with an auto essentially is. So I'm learning a little more about what needs to be done, it's a little harder to get a 722 to hold the right gear and use the gears to kind of force the motor to respond. Not only is the auto not great for this, from what I recall the stall speed is something like 2500rpm or more? Might be fine for drag racing...
Eh, last night was just shit anyway, lost my regular set of keys and I have no idea where (300D's key is off the ring and I didn't need the rest to start the car wherever it was that I lost them!), had to bust a window to get into the house even after going back to every store I went to and asking the employees about lost keys and checking the lots near where I'd parked...if I was a little more calm I probably would have figured the problem out sooner, though I might have to check into the lift pump just to be sure.
If miserly loves company, heres my worst ever air lock-
9943 ft almost at the summit of tioga pass at yosemite. ran out of fuel on the way up, and had to roll backwards down the mountain pass in the outside lane to this steep turnout where I managed to turn around somehow.
I blame the whole situation on a box of animal crackers I was eating.
yikes! I hate those escalating situations.
If miserly loves company, heres my worst ever air lock-
9943 ft almost at the summit of tioga pass at yosemite. ran out of fuel on the way up, and had to roll backwards down the mountain pass in the outside lane to this steep turnout where I managed to turn around somehow.
I blame the whole situation on a box of animal crackers I was eating.
CID Vicious
11-21-2009, 04:59 PM #5Someone's got to come up with a way to fix the damn fuel gauge that's cheaper than 200 F-N dollars...once I figure out how to get the 300's trunk open it's going to get it's own 1 gallon can. I've gotten into the habit of just keeping an extra gallon in the tank, if there's a fuel station within 20 miles you should be good...if not you'll still be glad you had the extra gallon
I'm going to try the whole 'in through the first aid kit' route before I go whacking out a tail light. Figures, the ones that are on there are nice, too...I think there might be something to the weak lift pump theory. I moved the car from one side of the yard to the other for a photo and when I started it, it started right up like it was brand new. Leave it for about an hour and a half, come back, go to move it again and it takes three tries and doesn't want to rev again.
Where is the lift pump located, in tank or in the engine compartment?
CID Vicious
11-21-2009, 07:59 PM #7It's been getting cold and few things are less motivating than that for me I'm going to try the whole 'in through the first aid kit' route before I go whacking out a tail light. Figures, the ones that are on there are nice, too...
I think there might be something to the weak lift pump theory. I moved the car from one side of the yard to the other for a photo and when I started it, it started right up like it was brand new. Leave it for about an hour and a half, come back, go to move it again and it takes three tries and doesn't want to rev again.
Where is the lift pump located, in tank or in the engine compartment?
The turbo and non-IPs are identical other than the ALDA/ADA and governor settings.
ForcedInduction
11-21-2009, 08:23 PM
#8
I'd suggest changing the lift pump check valves.
The turbo and non-IPs are identical other than the ALDA/ADA and governor settings.
If you don't want to muck about with the in tank screen, you can also just swap supply and return in the engine compartment to see if there is a difference in performance. Both fuel lines go to the bottom of the tank.
Chances are you might eliminate the problem just by doing normal maintenance.
do all the other cheap BS first though, fuel filters, tank and engine, fuel window, pull the fill cap to check the vents, ect. Just to isolate what could be the problem. I am always amazed when I see how clogged a stock filter is and the car is still running apparently normally. The vents on these fuel tanks are a joke also, tiny, tiny, easy to clog.
If you don't want to muck about with the in tank screen, you can also just swap supply and return in the engine compartment to see if there is a difference in performance. Both fuel lines go to the bottom of the tank.
Chances are you might eliminate the problem just by doing normal maintenance.
CID Vicious
11-21-2009, 10:42 PM #10True. The only thing I've done so far is top off the oil and add a little Diesel Kleen to the tank. And these things are so fuel sensitive...I should get one for my 240D, too, I changed the pre filter but not the large one. I might try the swithed send/return lines too.
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