Clutch for OM606 in -88 124 Mercedes
Clutch for OM606 in -88 124 Mercedes
1. no 716.6xx box can handle the shock load from an upgraded clutch / engine pulse at low rpm with SMF
2. They cannot handle the torque from a "mildly tuned" OM606. for any decent amount of time.
3. The design of the gearbox is such that with the increased torque and load the helical gears will try to drive the main shaft through the gearbox front cover, tearing the teeth off the gear that you are in when it fails, usually along with the inout shaft gear and bearing.
You have Gorans pump and a 200SX, which is more than enough to destroy a 717.4xx or 716.6xx box, even with 'considerate' mechanical sympathy.
Suggestion would be to get a 722.6 (606962) and ole's controller. Longterm the cheapest and best solution.
service the conductor plate and solenoids, and if you want to go deep, replace the f1 sprag if the box is not the "updated" version.
The service will be cheaper than a clutch and pressure plate and throwout bearing.
You will get used to the auto and paddle-shift/ or the +/- shift on the later auto shifter if you want to keep it 'traditional'.
Otherwise, you will need to look outside mercedes for a reliable manual box which can handle the input shaft chatter when in neutral and your clutch dumping.
Any time you want to "convert" or "adapt" a non-MB box to an MB engine, the alignment/engagement work needs to be preceise. I've seen plenty of really SHIT adapters for bmw, tremec, toyota, landrover...
Every conversion to non-mb has been let down by really sub-standard quality OR a nicely machined adapter that neglects to observe the MB tolerances, or worse still, ending up with a flywheel mass that is offset so far away from the crank flange that the crank whip breaks the gearbox input shaft, or damages it within a very short time and causes vibration harmonics while driving.
If you must manual swap, then get your mass as close to the crank flange's face plane as possible. Keep the mass below 17.5kg (dualmass FW) and keep the input shaft bearing engagement as close as possible to the crankshaft output flange (or in the crank if possible, like the long input shaft 717.4 boxes).
The reason the dual mass flywheel existed was for NVH reduction and mass-reaction reduction - aka drivetrain cushioning. This allowed gearbox engineers to make the boxes more efficient (smaller/cheaper) and they were more suited to small displacement engines (less torque/pulse)
The reason MB used the 722.6 behind their engines was to keep the rotating mass to a minimum, eliminate drivetrain pulse/vibration and keep the gear engagement smooth, not just for mass-production driveability, but to ensure a long life for the drivetrain.
On top of all that, they were more efficient due to torque multiplication factor, which gives low speed driveability and fuel economy (and emissions reduction).
Don't think you can outsmart Mercedes-Benz engineering. They have already been where you are, they have tried it and did not go that way for a good reason.
Despite the lack of 'choice', their solution is the best all-round compromise, with the least drawback.
Sometimes focusing on a single idea means you miss all the surrounding solutions, or ignore them on purpose, even though they may be 'better' but different to your ideas.
Yes, manual gearboxes are awesome.
I'm sure if you have some serious $$$$ you can go and investigate the BMW box and the DPUK adapter solution.
But the 722.6 shifts faster, more smoothly, doesn't have any gear lash issues, is quieter and can handle the power without drama.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but as someone who's done enough of these auto-manual conversions, The benefits of the autobox far outweigh the desire to shift manually.
I am that "manual gearbox" guy... but I'm telling you now, they are not a better solution, they have more drawbacks and are far less refined behind a 606, let alone a silky smooth m103/m104.
If there were enough 722.6's laying around here, I would actually be swapping my 6 speed manual coupe as well as the box in the 560SL for one.
Only the 16v would remain with a manual... because dogleg 5 speed.
the 722.6 gives you a car you can drive all the time. It's something you can live with and not feel like you are missing out. Way better in any traffic, gets power to the ground and shifts quicker.
And the minute someone comes up with a proper standalone TCU for the 722.9MCT speedshift, I'll be chasing that box.
The m157/722.9MCT is the reason my coupe, wagon, SL and 16v hardly get any seat time.
That's pretty tough to swallow when you are someone who loves manual boxes and older cars.
But times are changing. If there was a seriously strong Mercedes box that bolted in without potential grief, I'd recommend one.
Problem is, there isn't one.
As I have said in other threads, you will keep breaking manual boxes behind the diesel.
1. no 716.6xx box can handle the shock load from an upgraded clutch / engine pulse at low rpm with SMF
2. They cannot handle the torque from a "mildly tuned" OM606. for any decent amount of time.
3. The design of the gearbox is such that with the increased torque and load the helical gears will try to drive the main shaft through the gearbox front cover, tearing the teeth off the gear that you are in when it fails, usually along with the inout shaft gear and bearing.
You have Gorans pump and a 200SX, which is more than enough to destroy a 717.4xx or 716.6xx box, even with 'considerate' mechanical sympathy.
Suggestion would be to get a 722.6 (606962) and ole's controller. Longterm the cheapest and best solution.
service the conductor plate and solenoids, and if you want to go deep, replace the f1 sprag if the box is not the "updated" version.
The service will be cheaper than a clutch and pressure plate and throwout bearing.
You will get used to the auto and paddle-shift/ or the +/- shift on the later auto shifter if you want to keep it 'traditional'.
Otherwise, you will need to look outside mercedes for a reliable manual box which can handle the input shaft chatter when in neutral and your clutch dumping.
Any time you want to "convert" or "adapt" a non-MB box to an MB engine, the alignment/engagement work needs to be preceise. I've seen plenty of really SHIT adapters for bmw, tremec, toyota, landrover...
Every conversion to non-mb has been let down by really sub-standard quality OR a nicely machined adapter that neglects to observe the MB tolerances, or worse still, ending up with a flywheel mass that is offset so far away from the crank flange that the crank whip breaks the gearbox input shaft, or damages it within a very short time and causes vibration harmonics while driving.
If you must manual swap, then get your mass as close to the crank flange's face plane as possible. Keep the mass below 17.5kg (dualmass FW) and keep the input shaft bearing engagement as close as possible to the crankshaft output flange (or in the crank if possible, like the long input shaft 717.4 boxes).
The reason the dual mass flywheel existed was for NVH reduction and mass-reaction reduction - aka drivetrain cushioning. This allowed gearbox engineers to make the boxes more efficient (smaller/cheaper) and they were more suited to small displacement engines (less torque/pulse)
The reason MB used the 722.6 behind their engines was to keep the rotating mass to a minimum, eliminate drivetrain pulse/vibration and keep the gear engagement smooth, not just for mass-production driveability, but to ensure a long life for the drivetrain.
On top of all that, they were more efficient due to torque multiplication factor, which gives low speed driveability and fuel economy (and emissions reduction).
Don't think you can outsmart Mercedes-Benz engineering. They have already been where you are, they have tried it and did not go that way for a good reason.
Despite the lack of 'choice', their solution is the best all-round compromise, with the least drawback.
Sometimes focusing on a single idea means you miss all the surrounding solutions, or ignore them on purpose, even though they may be 'better' but different to your ideas.
Yes, manual gearboxes are awesome.
I'm sure if you have some serious $$$$ you can go and investigate the BMW box and the DPUK adapter solution.
But the 722.6 shifts faster, more smoothly, doesn't have any gear lash issues, is quieter and can handle the power without drama.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but as someone who's done enough of these auto-manual conversions, The benefits of the autobox far outweigh the desire to shift manually.
I am that "manual gearbox" guy... but I'm telling you now, they are not a better solution, they have more drawbacks and are far less refined behind a 606, let alone a silky smooth m103/m104.
If there were enough 722.6's laying around here, I would actually be swapping my 6 speed manual coupe as well as the box in the 560SL for one.
Only the 16v would remain with a manual... because dogleg 5 speed.
the 722.6 gives you a car you can drive all the time. It's something you can live with and not feel like you are missing out. Way better in any traffic, gets power to the ground and shifts quicker.
And the minute someone comes up with a proper standalone TCU for the 722.9MCT speedshift, I'll be chasing that box.
The m157/722.9MCT is the reason my coupe, wagon, SL and 16v hardly get any seat time.
That's pretty tough to swallow when you are someone who loves manual boxes and older cars.
But times are changing. If there was a seriously strong Mercedes box that bolted in without potential grief, I'd recommend one.
Problem is, there isn't one.
3 Guest(s)
3 Guest(s)