STD Tuning Drivetrain Clutch for OM606 in -88 124 Mercedes

Clutch for OM606 in -88 124 Mercedes

Clutch for OM606 in -88 124 Mercedes

 
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d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
07-23-2020, 01:31 PM #1
Hello, i have recently built a OM606 with Dieselmeken 7,5mm pump and a BW 200sx turbo and put it in a -88 Mercedes 300D with a 5 speed manual gearbox, the whole transmission is stock and the clutch slips something awful.

I am using the OM603 flywheel from the cars original engine on the OM606.

I have read that Sachs 765 is a common upgrade, but is it possible to machine the OM603 flywheel to fit that pressureplate? And if so, what clutchdisc should i use?

Or is there some beefier standard clutchkit that fit without modification? I don´t have any differential lock or brake and i am running standard size tyres so maybe i don´t need a superclutch?
d557017
07-23-2020, 01:31 PM #1

Hello, i have recently built a OM606 with Dieselmeken 7,5mm pump and a BW 200sx turbo and put it in a -88 Mercedes 300D with a 5 speed manual gearbox, the whole transmission is stock and the clutch slips something awful.

I am using the OM603 flywheel from the cars original engine on the OM606.

I have read that Sachs 765 is a common upgrade, but is it possible to machine the OM603 flywheel to fit that pressureplate? And if so, what clutchdisc should i use?

Or is there some beefier standard clutchkit that fit without modification? I don´t have any differential lock or brake and i am running standard size tyres so maybe i don´t need a superclutch?

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
07-25-2020, 09:12 AM #2
Took the gearbox out of the car today to have a look.
I have found information that says that the Sachs 765 boltcircle diameter is 273mm, looks like the bolts then would end up in the line between the starter ring gear and the actual flywheel, maybe not so good i guess.

I have also been reading about the Sprinter singel mass flywheel kits, but apparently they won´t work if you have the long input shaft wich i belive i have since there is a pilot bearing for the gearbox input shaft in the crankshaft.
Is that because of the "snout" in the center of the flywheel that you see in this picture? https://www.dieselpumpuk.com/shop/clutch...lutch-kit/
Maybe the "snout" could just be machined away in that case?

I tryed to post some pictures but when i click on "add" the frame just reloads and the attatchment is gone for some reason
d557017
07-25-2020, 09:12 AM #2

Took the gearbox out of the car today to have a look.
I have found information that says that the Sachs 765 boltcircle diameter is 273mm, looks like the bolts then would end up in the line between the starter ring gear and the actual flywheel, maybe not so good i guess.

I have also been reading about the Sprinter singel mass flywheel kits, but apparently they won´t work if you have the long input shaft wich i belive i have since there is a pilot bearing for the gearbox input shaft in the crankshaft.
Is that because of the "snout" in the center of the flywheel that you see in this picture? https://www.dieselpumpuk.com/shop/clutch...lutch-kit/
Maybe the "snout" could just be machined away in that case?

I tryed to post some pictures but when i click on "add" the frame just reloads and the attatchment is gone for some reason

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
08-30-2020, 03:10 AM #3
So, i did buy a Sachs 765 pressure plate and a Borg & Beck Sprinter Clutch and flywheel kit, i only used the clutchplate out of that kit but it was very cheap and the flywheel could be useful in the future.
Instead i had the original flywheel modified for the 765 pressureplate, the Sprinter clutchplate was  a bit thinner then the 9,2mm specified for the 765 so we machined a "step" in the flywheel to compensate for that.
And the boltcircle did end up in the line between the flywheel and the starter ring gear, but hopefully that doesen´t matter to much.
I also did some modifications to bet the right distance between the throwoutbearing and the clutch.
The point of engagement in the clutchpedal is a bit deep, i think the travel of the original hydraulic system is a bit short for this clutch, but it does work ok, no slipping now Shy
Attached Files
Image(s)
   
d557017
08-30-2020, 03:10 AM #3

So, i did buy a Sachs 765 pressure plate and a Borg & Beck Sprinter Clutch and flywheel kit, i only used the clutchplate out of that kit but it was very cheap and the flywheel could be useful in the future.
Instead i had the original flywheel modified for the 765 pressureplate, the Sprinter clutchplate was  a bit thinner then the 9,2mm specified for the 765 so we machined a "step" in the flywheel to compensate for that.
And the boltcircle did end up in the line between the flywheel and the starter ring gear, but hopefully that doesen´t matter to much.
I also did some modifications to bet the right distance between the throwoutbearing and the clutch.
The point of engagement in the clutchpedal is a bit deep, i think the travel of the original hydraulic system is a bit short for this clutch, but it does work ok, no slipping now Shy

Attached Files
Image(s)
   

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
10-13-2020, 06:20 AM #4
So, i had a lot of fun driving this car until last week when the gearbox gave up, the third gear to be specific.
I understand that the six speed 761.654 is a popular upgrade, but i haven´t found many for sale around here, on the other hand there is plenty of 761.623 gearboxes from the petrol 1,8 litre compressor C-class.
Can anyone tell me the difference between the 761.654 and the 761.623?
I have found that both look the same as far as i can tell, and both have the simpler version of the gearstick linkage.
Will either bolt up to the engine? are the gearbox input shafts the same? Is one stronger then the other? same propshaft?
d557017
10-13-2020, 06:20 AM #4

So, i had a lot of fun driving this car until last week when the gearbox gave up, the third gear to be specific.
I understand that the six speed 761.654 is a popular upgrade, but i haven´t found many for sale around here, on the other hand there is plenty of 761.623 gearboxes from the petrol 1,8 litre compressor C-class.
Can anyone tell me the difference between the 761.654 and the 761.623?
I have found that both look the same as far as i can tell, and both have the simpler version of the gearstick linkage.
Will either bolt up to the engine? are the gearbox input shafts the same? Is one stronger then the other? same propshaft?

JoeB
TA 0301

74
10-13-2020, 09:02 PM #5
As I have said in other threads, you will keep breaking manual boxes behind the diesel.

1. no 716.6xx box can handle the shock load from an upgraded clutch / engine pulse at low rpm with SMF
2. They cannot handle the torque from a "mildly tuned" OM606. for any decent amount of time.
3. The design of the gearbox is such that with the increased torque and load the helical gears will try to drive the main shaft through the gearbox front cover, tearing the teeth off the gear that you are in when it fails, usually along with the inout shaft gear and bearing.

You have Gorans pump and a 200SX, which is more than enough to destroy a 717.4xx or 716.6xx box, even with 'considerate' mechanical sympathy.

Suggestion would be to get a 722.6 (606962) and ole's controller. Longterm the cheapest and best solution.
service the conductor plate and solenoids, and if you want to go deep, replace the f1 sprag if the box is not the "updated" version.
The service will be cheaper than a clutch and pressure plate and throwout bearing.

You will get used to the auto and paddle-shift/ or the +/- shift on the later auto shifter if you want to keep it 'traditional'.

Otherwise, you will need to look outside mercedes for a reliable manual box which can handle the input shaft chatter when in neutral and your clutch dumping.

Any time you want to "convert" or "adapt" a non-MB box to an MB engine, the alignment/engagement work needs to be preceise. I've seen plenty of really SHIT adapters for bmw, tremec, toyota, landrover...
Every conversion to non-mb has been let down by really sub-standard quality OR a nicely machined adapter that neglects to observe the MB tolerances, or worse still, ending up with a flywheel mass that is offset so far away from the crank flange that the crank whip breaks the gearbox input shaft, or damages it within a very short time and causes vibration harmonics while driving.

If you must manual swap, then get your mass as close to the crank flange's face plane as possible. Keep the mass below 17.5kg (dualmass FW) and keep the input shaft bearing engagement as close as possible to the crankshaft output flange (or in the crank if possible, like the long input shaft 717.4 boxes).

The reason the dual mass flywheel existed was for NVH reduction and mass-reaction reduction - aka drivetrain cushioning. This allowed gearbox engineers to make the boxes more efficient (smaller/cheaper) and they were more suited to small displacement engines (less torque/pulse)

The reason MB used the 722.6 behind their engines was to keep the rotating mass to a minimum, eliminate drivetrain pulse/vibration and keep the gear engagement smooth, not just for mass-production driveability, but to ensure a long life for the drivetrain.
On top of all that, they were more efficient due to torque multiplication factor, which gives low speed driveability and fuel economy (and emissions reduction).

Don't think you can outsmart Mercedes-Benz engineering. They have already been where you are, they have tried it and did not go that way for a good reason.
Despite the lack of 'choice', their solution is the best all-round compromise, with the least drawback.

Sometimes focusing on a single idea means you miss all the surrounding solutions, or ignore them on purpose, even though they may be 'better' but different to your ideas.

Yes, manual gearboxes are awesome.
I'm sure if you have some serious $$$$ you can go and investigate the BMW box and the DPUK adapter solution.

But the 722.6 shifts faster, more smoothly, doesn't have any gear lash issues, is quieter and can handle the power without drama.

Probably not what you wanted to hear, but as someone who's done enough of these auto-manual conversions, The benefits of the autobox far outweigh the desire to shift manually.

I am that "manual gearbox" guy... but I'm telling you now, they are not a better solution, they have more drawbacks and are far less refined behind a 606, let alone a silky smooth m103/m104.

If there were enough 722.6's laying around here, I would actually be swapping my 6 speed manual coupe as well as the box in the 560SL for one.
Only the 16v would remain with a manual... because dogleg 5 speed.

the 722.6 gives you a car you can drive all the time. It's something you can live with and not feel like you are missing out. Way better in any traffic, gets power to the ground and shifts quicker.

And the minute someone comes up with a proper standalone TCU for the 722.9MCT speedshift, I'll be chasing that box.
The m157/722.9MCT is the reason my coupe, wagon, SL and 16v hardly get any seat time.
That's pretty tough to swallow when you are someone who loves manual boxes and older cars.

But times are changing. If there was a seriously strong Mercedes box that bolted in without potential grief, I'd recommend one.

Problem is, there isn't one.
This post was last modified: 10-13-2020, 09:04 PM by JoeB.
JoeB
10-13-2020, 09:02 PM #5

As I have said in other threads, you will keep breaking manual boxes behind the diesel.

1. no 716.6xx box can handle the shock load from an upgraded clutch / engine pulse at low rpm with SMF
2. They cannot handle the torque from a "mildly tuned" OM606. for any decent amount of time.
3. The design of the gearbox is such that with the increased torque and load the helical gears will try to drive the main shaft through the gearbox front cover, tearing the teeth off the gear that you are in when it fails, usually along with the inout shaft gear and bearing.

You have Gorans pump and a 200SX, which is more than enough to destroy a 717.4xx or 716.6xx box, even with 'considerate' mechanical sympathy.

Suggestion would be to get a 722.6 (606962) and ole's controller. Longterm the cheapest and best solution.
service the conductor plate and solenoids, and if you want to go deep, replace the f1 sprag if the box is not the "updated" version.
The service will be cheaper than a clutch and pressure plate and throwout bearing.

You will get used to the auto and paddle-shift/ or the +/- shift on the later auto shifter if you want to keep it 'traditional'.

Otherwise, you will need to look outside mercedes for a reliable manual box which can handle the input shaft chatter when in neutral and your clutch dumping.

Any time you want to "convert" or "adapt" a non-MB box to an MB engine, the alignment/engagement work needs to be preceise. I've seen plenty of really SHIT adapters for bmw, tremec, toyota, landrover...
Every conversion to non-mb has been let down by really sub-standard quality OR a nicely machined adapter that neglects to observe the MB tolerances, or worse still, ending up with a flywheel mass that is offset so far away from the crank flange that the crank whip breaks the gearbox input shaft, or damages it within a very short time and causes vibration harmonics while driving.

If you must manual swap, then get your mass as close to the crank flange's face plane as possible. Keep the mass below 17.5kg (dualmass FW) and keep the input shaft bearing engagement as close as possible to the crankshaft output flange (or in the crank if possible, like the long input shaft 717.4 boxes).

The reason the dual mass flywheel existed was for NVH reduction and mass-reaction reduction - aka drivetrain cushioning. This allowed gearbox engineers to make the boxes more efficient (smaller/cheaper) and they were more suited to small displacement engines (less torque/pulse)

The reason MB used the 722.6 behind their engines was to keep the rotating mass to a minimum, eliminate drivetrain pulse/vibration and keep the gear engagement smooth, not just for mass-production driveability, but to ensure a long life for the drivetrain.
On top of all that, they were more efficient due to torque multiplication factor, which gives low speed driveability and fuel economy (and emissions reduction).

Don't think you can outsmart Mercedes-Benz engineering. They have already been where you are, they have tried it and did not go that way for a good reason.
Despite the lack of 'choice', their solution is the best all-round compromise, with the least drawback.

Sometimes focusing on a single idea means you miss all the surrounding solutions, or ignore them on purpose, even though they may be 'better' but different to your ideas.

Yes, manual gearboxes are awesome.
I'm sure if you have some serious $$$$ you can go and investigate the BMW box and the DPUK adapter solution.

But the 722.6 shifts faster, more smoothly, doesn't have any gear lash issues, is quieter and can handle the power without drama.

Probably not what you wanted to hear, but as someone who's done enough of these auto-manual conversions, The benefits of the autobox far outweigh the desire to shift manually.

I am that "manual gearbox" guy... but I'm telling you now, they are not a better solution, they have more drawbacks and are far less refined behind a 606, let alone a silky smooth m103/m104.

If there were enough 722.6's laying around here, I would actually be swapping my 6 speed manual coupe as well as the box in the 560SL for one.
Only the 16v would remain with a manual... because dogleg 5 speed.

the 722.6 gives you a car you can drive all the time. It's something you can live with and not feel like you are missing out. Way better in any traffic, gets power to the ground and shifts quicker.

And the minute someone comes up with a proper standalone TCU for the 722.9MCT speedshift, I'll be chasing that box.
The m157/722.9MCT is the reason my coupe, wagon, SL and 16v hardly get any seat time.
That's pretty tough to swallow when you are someone who loves manual boxes and older cars.

But times are changing. If there was a seriously strong Mercedes box that bolted in without potential grief, I'd recommend one.

Problem is, there isn't one.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
10-14-2020, 02:04 AM #6
You are perfectly right, this is not what i want to hear.... lol Smile
Seriously though, thank you for your input, you obviously have a lot of experiance with Mercedes superturbo builds, and i do not.
Even so, a automatic gearbox is not what i want at this point. and surely, the 716.6xx gearboxes must be stronger then the original 5 speed?
If i can find a affordable 716.6xx i think i will try it, and if that breaks, well, then i have to find something stronger!
And i agree with you about the modified BMW gearboxes i have seen, some look like a mess...

Anyway, i have been compareing pictures of 716.654 (CDI 220) and 716.623 (180 Kompressor) and the boltpattern for the engine does actually NOT look the same.
Wondering if the 716.654 boltpattern fits OM 606, and if so, does only that fit? Or do all diesel 716.6xx fit?
This post was last modified: 10-14-2020, 02:05 AM by d557017.
d557017
10-14-2020, 02:04 AM #6

You are perfectly right, this is not what i want to hear.... lol Smile
Seriously though, thank you for your input, you obviously have a lot of experiance with Mercedes superturbo builds, and i do not.
Even so, a automatic gearbox is not what i want at this point. and surely, the 716.6xx gearboxes must be stronger then the original 5 speed?
If i can find a affordable 716.6xx i think i will try it, and if that breaks, well, then i have to find something stronger!
And i agree with you about the modified BMW gearboxes i have seen, some look like a mess...

Anyway, i have been compareing pictures of 716.654 (CDI 220) and 716.623 (180 Kompressor) and the boltpattern for the engine does actually NOT look the same.
Wondering if the 716.654 boltpattern fits OM 606, and if so, does only that fit? Or do all diesel 716.6xx fit?

Simon B
K26-2

36
10-18-2020, 06:55 AM #7
The one you want is 716.648, that's the 270cdi gearbox. I've had one behind a 400hp OM606 for 3 years as a daily driver without issue.
Simon B
10-18-2020, 06:55 AM #7

The one you want is 716.648, that's the 270cdi gearbox. I've had one behind a 400hp OM606 for 3 years as a daily driver without issue.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
10-18-2020, 08:34 AM #8
Isn´t the 716.648 for a petrol engine? But perhaps it still fits the OM606 then?
I think the 270 CDI manual gearbox is 716.641 correct?
As you hear i am still confused about what 716.6XX fits an OM606 and what does not...

I did find a used 716.654 from a 220 CDI for a reasonable price, so i ordered that one, it should be here during the comeing week, hopefully it fits and works well!
d557017
10-18-2020, 08:34 AM #8

Isn´t the 716.648 for a petrol engine? But perhaps it still fits the OM606 then?
I think the 270 CDI manual gearbox is 716.641 correct?
As you hear i am still confused about what 716.6XX fits an OM606 and what does not...

I did find a used 716.654 from a 220 CDI for a reasonable price, so i ordered that one, it should be here during the comeing week, hopefully it fits and works well!

Simon B
K26-2

36
10-18-2020, 11:40 AM #9
Here is a list of what each number is found in, this is only for the stronger s370 gearbox as the smaller numbers cannot hold the power of the 606.. All the gearboxes are interchangeable with each other except the v6 gearboxes which have a different bolt pattern.

716.640 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 E220CDI W/T210 OM611 4 cylinder
716.641 SG-S370/6.1 E270CDI W/T210 OM612 5 cylinder
716.643 SG-S370/6.1 208/308/408CDI 211/311/411CDI 213/313/413CDI 216/316/416CDI 901/2/3/4/Sprinter OM611 4 cylinder OM612 5 cylinder
716.644 SG-S370/6.1 ML270CDI W163 OM612 5 cylinder
716.646 SG-S370/6.1 E280CDI W/T211 OM642 6 cylinder
716.647 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 E220CDI W/T210 OM611 4 cylinder
716.648 SG-S370/6.1 C270CDI W/T203 E270CDI W/T210 OM612 5 cylinder
716.649 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 C270CDI W/T203 CLK270CDI C209 E220CDI W210 W/T211 OM646 4 cylinder OM612 5 cylinder OM611 4 cylinder OM646 4 cylinder
716.651 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 E220CDI W/T210 OM611 4 cylinder OM646 4 cylinder
716.652 SG-S370/6.29 109CDI 110CDI 111CDI 113CDI 115CDI 116CDI 120CDI 122CDI 119 123 126 639 Vito  V350 2.0 2.2 3.0 3.2 3.5 639 Viano M112 6 cylinder M272 6 cylinder OM642 6 cylinder OM646 4 cylinder OM651 4 cylinder

716.653
 SG-S370/6.1 C320CDI W/T203 CLK320CDI C/A209 E280CDI W/T211 OM642 6 cylinder

716.654 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 C270CDI W/T203 CLK220CDI CLK270CDI C209 E200CDI W/T211 OM646 4 cylinder OM612 5 cylinder
716.656 SG-S370/6.1 C180CDIBE C200CDI C200CDIBE C220CDI C220CDIBE C250CGI C250CGIBE W/T204 E200CDI W/T212 OM651 4 cylinder M271 4 cylinder
This post was last modified: 10-18-2020, 11:43 AM by Simon B.
Simon B
10-18-2020, 11:40 AM #9

Here is a list of what each number is found in, this is only for the stronger s370 gearbox as the smaller numbers cannot hold the power of the 606.. All the gearboxes are interchangeable with each other except the v6 gearboxes which have a different bolt pattern.

716.640 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 E220CDI W/T210 OM611 4 cylinder
716.641 SG-S370/6.1 E270CDI W/T210 OM612 5 cylinder
716.643 SG-S370/6.1 208/308/408CDI 211/311/411CDI 213/313/413CDI 216/316/416CDI 901/2/3/4/Sprinter OM611 4 cylinder OM612 5 cylinder
716.644 SG-S370/6.1 ML270CDI W163 OM612 5 cylinder
716.646 SG-S370/6.1 E280CDI W/T211 OM642 6 cylinder
716.647 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 E220CDI W/T210 OM611 4 cylinder
716.648 SG-S370/6.1 C270CDI W/T203 E270CDI W/T210 OM612 5 cylinder
716.649 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 C270CDI W/T203 CLK270CDI C209 E220CDI W210 W/T211 OM646 4 cylinder OM612 5 cylinder OM611 4 cylinder OM646 4 cylinder
716.651 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 E220CDI W/T210 OM611 4 cylinder OM646 4 cylinder
716.652 SG-S370/6.29 109CDI 110CDI 111CDI 113CDI 115CDI 116CDI 120CDI 122CDI 119 123 126 639 Vito  V350 2.0 2.2 3.0 3.2 3.5 639 Viano M112 6 cylinder M272 6 cylinder OM642 6 cylinder OM646 4 cylinder OM651 4 cylinder

716.653
 SG-S370/6.1 C320CDI W/T203 CLK320CDI C/A209 E280CDI W/T211 OM642 6 cylinder

716.654 SG-S370/6.1 C220CDI W/T/CL203 C270CDI W/T203 CLK220CDI CLK270CDI C209 E200CDI W/T211 OM646 4 cylinder OM612 5 cylinder
716.656 SG-S370/6.1 C180CDIBE C200CDI C200CDIBE C220CDI C220CDIBE C250CGI C250CGIBE W/T204 E200CDI W/T212 OM651 4 cylinder M271 4 cylinder

Simon B
K26-2

36
10-18-2020, 11:49 AM #10
And this is what happens when you use one of the weaker gearboxes, this was a 716.607....

Simon B
10-18-2020, 11:49 AM #10

And this is what happens when you use one of the weaker gearboxes, this was a 716.607....

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
10-18-2020, 12:51 PM #11
Thank you Simon B, great information Smile
d557017
10-18-2020, 12:51 PM #11

Thank you Simon B, great information Smile

Gasoil
K26-2

46
11-08-2020, 07:53 AM #12
MB I think makes a mixture of gearboxes cases in his cars, some W203 CDI with  .644,  .655......not understand why that different numbers in the same car chassis.
This post was last modified: 11-08-2020, 08:13 AM by Gasoil.
Gasoil
11-08-2020, 07:53 AM #12

MB I think makes a mixture of gearboxes cases in his cars, some W203 CDI with  .644,  .655......not understand why that different numbers in the same car chassis.

Gasoil
K26-2

46
11-08-2020, 08:32 AM #13
(10-18-2020, 12:51 PM)d557017 Thank you Simon B, great information Smile
  How many "step" mm you machined the Sprinter flywheel for stock disc and 765 PP?  Last week purchased one Sprinter kit for only 146 euro,  flywheel, PP and disc, dual mass to solid conversion.

 That white W124  photo...see the license plate, Vaquerizo Motor Vehículos de Ocasión,  they are  in Alcalá de Henares, 40-50Km from my home !!!!!

Today Monday arrived the Bolk Dual to solid flywheel kit for Sprinter.    Weight all with unopened box 23,8Kg,  flywheel is 16,1 Kg.  Is PRC made.  Comes with 10.8 bolts,  and 2 yellow gloves as detail!!!!
Dual mass stock FW from Sprinter is 16,6 Kg from Valeo, W210 270CDI a bit lighter, as 14,8-15,5Kg, probably Bolk made flywheel weight close to stock DMF from Sprinter to be streetable as standard at low gears-revs.

Hope machine it to 8-10Kg total weight some year.

This FW from Fiat Croma  Did stock 9,1Kg  I lightened to 4,1Kg for my Seat 124-2000 turboed.
This post was last modified: 11-09-2020, 02:41 PM by Gasoil.
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Gasoil
11-08-2020, 08:32 AM #13

(10-18-2020, 12:51 PM)d557017 Thank you Simon B, great information Smile
  How many "step" mm you machined the Sprinter flywheel for stock disc and 765 PP?  Last week purchased one Sprinter kit for only 146 euro,  flywheel, PP and disc, dual mass to solid conversion.

 That white W124  photo...see the license plate, Vaquerizo Motor Vehículos de Ocasión,  they are  in Alcalá de Henares, 40-50Km from my home !!!!!

Today Monday arrived the Bolk Dual to solid flywheel kit for Sprinter.    Weight all with unopened box 23,8Kg,  flywheel is 16,1 Kg.  Is PRC made.  Comes with 10.8 bolts,  and 2 yellow gloves as detail!!!!
Dual mass stock FW from Sprinter is 16,6 Kg from Valeo, W210 270CDI a bit lighter, as 14,8-15,5Kg, probably Bolk made flywheel weight close to stock DMF from Sprinter to be streetable as standard at low gears-revs.

Hope machine it to 8-10Kg total weight some year.

This FW from Fiat Croma  Did stock 9,1Kg  I lightened to 4,1Kg for my Seat 124-2000 turboed.

Attached Files
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Gasoil
K26-2

46
11-09-2020, 02:50 PM #14
Big photo, sorry, not capable reduce it.

Looking  PP and disc design can be Valeo.  PP and disc have Bolk A202008 in them.  No Valeo marks anywhere, but as say looking Valeo PP and discs  they are the same design, Sachs and Luk have usually other design.
This post was last modified: 11-11-2020, 08:36 AM by Gasoil.
Gasoil
11-09-2020, 02:50 PM #14

Big photo, sorry, not capable reduce it.

Looking  PP and disc design can be Valeo.  PP and disc have Bolk A202008 in them.  No Valeo marks anywhere, but as say looking Valeo PP and discs  they are the same design, Sachs and Luk have usually other design.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
11-11-2020, 02:03 PM #15
Hello, i haven´t machined the sprinter flywheel yet, only the stoch OM603 flywheel for the old gearbox, but i know that 9,2mm clutchplate thickness is nominal for the Sachs 765 pressureplate, so, measure your clutchplate and then you will know what "step" height you need.

Yes, the car was bought by me from Vaquerizo Motors in Madrid, close to you, but a looong way from me in Sweden
d557017
11-11-2020, 02:03 PM #15

Hello, i haven´t machined the sprinter flywheel yet, only the stoch OM603 flywheel for the old gearbox, but i know that 9,2mm clutchplate thickness is nominal for the Sachs 765 pressureplate, so, measure your clutchplate and then you will know what "step" height you need.

Yes, the car was bought by me from Vaquerizo Motors in Madrid, close to you, but a looong way from me in Sweden

Gasoil
K26-2

46
11-12-2020, 08:56 AM #16
(11-11-2020, 02:03 PM)d557017 Hello, i haven´t machined the sprinter flywheel yet, only the stoch OM603 flywheel for the old gearbox, but i know that 9,2mm clutchplate thickness is nominal for the Sachs 765 pressureplate, so, measure your clutchplate and then you will know what "step" height you need.

Yes, the car was bought by me from Vaquerizo Motors in Madrid, close to you, but a looong way from me in Sweden

OK, somobody told me 765 is for 9,2mm thick disc and with this measure flywheel must be all flat, without any step, in M5 Board Forum also explains the 765 PP needs 2,6-3,4mm from PP to flywheel, but bolts no tightened.With this 2,6-3,4mm explains (if understand OK)  PP makes the max clamping force to disc,  less of more of that measure and forcing clamp is less.

You bought that car here in holidays or you come here to buy it?   Usually W124´s have no rust here, but cars from the inner of Spain, Madrid, Castilla-La Mancha, Andalucía but no sea areas....
Gasoil
11-12-2020, 08:56 AM #16

(11-11-2020, 02:03 PM)d557017 Hello, i haven´t machined the sprinter flywheel yet, only the stoch OM603 flywheel for the old gearbox, but i know that 9,2mm clutchplate thickness is nominal for the Sachs 765 pressureplate, so, measure your clutchplate and then you will know what "step" height you need.

Yes, the car was bought by me from Vaquerizo Motors in Madrid, close to you, but a looong way from me in Sweden

OK, somobody told me 765 is for 9,2mm thick disc and with this measure flywheel must be all flat, without any step, in M5 Board Forum also explains the 765 PP needs 2,6-3,4mm from PP to flywheel, but bolts no tightened.With this 2,6-3,4mm explains (if understand OK)  PP makes the max clamping force to disc,  less of more of that measure and forcing clamp is less.

You bought that car here in holidays or you come here to buy it?   Usually W124´s have no rust here, but cars from the inner of Spain, Madrid, Castilla-La Mancha, Andalucía but no sea areas....

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
11-14-2020, 02:43 AM #17
Actually i was interested in another car down in Murcia first, i wanted to take a plane there and drive the car home myself, but apparently i would have needed permission from the Spanish police, but they declined such a permission unfortunatley.

So, this car was brougt to me by transport.
d557017
11-14-2020, 02:43 AM #17

Actually i was interested in another car down in Murcia first, i wanted to take a plane there and drive the car home myself, but apparently i would have needed permission from the Spanish police, but they declined such a permission unfortunatley.

So, this car was brougt to me by transport.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
11-29-2020, 10:42 AM #18
So, i have started to have a look at the new gearbox and trying to figure out how to best adapt the Sprinter solid mass flywheel to suit it and the Sachs 765 clutch.
First i machined the center hole in the flywheel a bit deeper to fit the crankshaft, i didn´t want to start grinding on the crankshaft, not that it would matter, but it just feels so wrong....

I have found that the starter ring gear ends up about 2 millimeters further back with the sprinter flywheel then vith the OM603 one, but it looks like the throwout of the starter motor is sufficient and i think the tachometer sensor can still reach the ring gear for its reading so hopefully this doesn´t matter.

I am wondering about what depth i should machine the flywheel to though (the surface for the pressureplate and friction disc) 
If i leave the friction disc surface as is and just machine the pressure plate surface down to get the correct clamping force the distance until the throwoutbearing bottoms out at it´s furthest in position towoards the gearbox is only 2 millimeters, and that will decrease as the clutch wears.
The total travel of the throwout bearing is 21 millimeters though, so there should not be much risk of machineing down the flywheel to much i think?

How much do you think i shold take of the flywheel?  5 millimeters?

PS, tryed to add some pictures, but it seems that function only works sometimes for me Sad
This post was last modified: 11-29-2020, 10:44 AM by d557017.
d557017
11-29-2020, 10:42 AM #18

So, i have started to have a look at the new gearbox and trying to figure out how to best adapt the Sprinter solid mass flywheel to suit it and the Sachs 765 clutch.
First i machined the center hole in the flywheel a bit deeper to fit the crankshaft, i didn´t want to start grinding on the crankshaft, not that it would matter, but it just feels so wrong....

I have found that the starter ring gear ends up about 2 millimeters further back with the sprinter flywheel then vith the OM603 one, but it looks like the throwout of the starter motor is sufficient and i think the tachometer sensor can still reach the ring gear for its reading so hopefully this doesn´t matter.

I am wondering about what depth i should machine the flywheel to though (the surface for the pressureplate and friction disc) 
If i leave the friction disc surface as is and just machine the pressure plate surface down to get the correct clamping force the distance until the throwoutbearing bottoms out at it´s furthest in position towoards the gearbox is only 2 millimeters, and that will decrease as the clutch wears.
The total travel of the throwout bearing is 21 millimeters though, so there should not be much risk of machineing down the flywheel to much i think?

How much do you think i shold take of the flywheel?  5 millimeters?

PS, tryed to add some pictures, but it seems that function only works sometimes for me Sad

Simon B
K26-2

36
11-29-2020, 03:23 PM #19
I left the friction surface as it is, but machined the mounting surface 1mm lower than the friction surface. I'm using a 765 cover plate.
Simon B
11-29-2020, 03:23 PM #19

I left the friction surface as it is, but machined the mounting surface 1mm lower than the friction surface. I'm using a 765 cover plate.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
12-01-2020, 11:32 AM #20
Ok, do you know how much extra clearence you have?
And how thick is your clutchplate, 8,2 mm?
Did you also notice that the starter ring gear is a bit further back with the sprinter flywheel?
What brand is your flywheel by the way? Mine is a Borg and Beck.
Did you balance the flywheel?

Lots of questions  Rolleyes

Maybe machineing 5mm of the flywheel is excessive since your clutch plate surface isn´t touched at all.
d557017
12-01-2020, 11:32 AM #20

Ok, do you know how much extra clearence you have?
And how thick is your clutchplate, 8,2 mm?
Did you also notice that the starter ring gear is a bit further back with the sprinter flywheel?
What brand is your flywheel by the way? Mine is a Borg and Beck.
Did you balance the flywheel?

Lots of questions  Rolleyes

Maybe machineing 5mm of the flywheel is excessive since your clutch plate surface isn´t touched at all.

Simon B
K26-2

36
12-01-2020, 04:23 PM #21
I'm using a Valeo flywheel, the clutch plate is 9.2mm Sachs. 

I never checked the position of the starter ring gear teeth as it should be the same. Starter position on om606 and om611 is identical.

I did have the flywheel balanced after I was sure it was correct, I don't know how much clearance there is without pulling the box again.
Simon B
12-01-2020, 04:23 PM #21

I'm using a Valeo flywheel, the clutch plate is 9.2mm Sachs. 

I never checked the position of the starter ring gear teeth as it should be the same. Starter position on om606 and om611 is identical.

I did have the flywheel balanced after I was sure it was correct, I don't know how much clearance there is without pulling the box again.

Simon B
K26-2

36
12-01-2020, 04:31 PM #22
My advice, and what I did, was to assemble the unmodified sprinter flywheel and clutch on the engine and measure the distance from block to cover plate fingers. Then machine the flywheel so that the 765 coverplate is the same measurement, but you need to know how thick your clutch plate is before you do this. A thinner clutch plate needs more machining to close the gap.

My flywheel look like this

   
This post was last modified: 12-01-2020, 04:35 PM by Simon B.
Simon B
12-01-2020, 04:31 PM #22

My advice, and what I did, was to assemble the unmodified sprinter flywheel and clutch on the engine and measure the distance from block to cover plate fingers. Then machine the flywheel so that the 765 coverplate is the same measurement, but you need to know how thick your clutch plate is before you do this. A thinner clutch plate needs more machining to close the gap.

My flywheel look like this

   

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
12-06-2020, 11:35 AM #23
Today i (finally) did some more measuring, i did as Simon suggested and compared to the sprinter kit pressure plate, and the difference is about 4mm on the heigt of the clutcplate fingers if i was to retain the height of the clutcplate surface on the flywheel, this kind of makes sense, with 4mm extra clearance we are quite close to the 5mm i was thinking of machineing off since my previous measurments ended up with zero clearance.

I also double checked the position of the starter ring gear, and it is indeed 2mm further back then the sprinter flywheel then with the om 603 one.

There seems to be quite a big difference between the Valeo sprinter flywheels and the Borg and Beck kit i have apparently, i am thinking the Valeo propably is much higher quality and precision.

I am thinkin i might machine 2mm of each side of the flywheel, that way i get the clearence i need and the starter ring gear ends up where it was before, what do you think?
d557017
12-06-2020, 11:35 AM #23

Today i (finally) did some more measuring, i did as Simon suggested and compared to the sprinter kit pressure plate, and the difference is about 4mm on the heigt of the clutcplate fingers if i was to retain the height of the clutcplate surface on the flywheel, this kind of makes sense, with 4mm extra clearance we are quite close to the 5mm i was thinking of machineing off since my previous measurments ended up with zero clearance.

I also double checked the position of the starter ring gear, and it is indeed 2mm further back then the sprinter flywheel then with the om 603 one.

There seems to be quite a big difference between the Valeo sprinter flywheels and the Borg and Beck kit i have apparently, i am thinking the Valeo propably is much higher quality and precision.

I am thinkin i might machine 2mm of each side of the flywheel, that way i get the clearence i need and the starter ring gear ends up where it was before, what do you think?

Simon B
K26-2

36
12-07-2020, 04:50 PM #24
Did you measure the distance to the coverplate fingers with it bolted to the flywheel?, that's the important thing to get correct. I wouldn't machine the rear of the flywheel to move the starter ring gear by 2mm, as you might need those 2mm to get the coverplate height where you need it. As you need to take into account the thickness of the friction disc your using, a thinner disc will mean you need to machine the mounting surface lower to compensate which is where those extra 2mm are usefull.

My 765 coverplate mounts 1-1.5mm below the friction surface using a 9.2mm thick sachs friction disc. When I shattered that disc I temporally tried to fit the Valeo sprinter disc which is 8mm, that 1.2mm difference meant I had no drive just pure clutch slip. So you need to get it correct.
Simon B
12-07-2020, 04:50 PM #24

Did you measure the distance to the coverplate fingers with it bolted to the flywheel?, that's the important thing to get correct. I wouldn't machine the rear of the flywheel to move the starter ring gear by 2mm, as you might need those 2mm to get the coverplate height where you need it. As you need to take into account the thickness of the friction disc your using, a thinner disc will mean you need to machine the mounting surface lower to compensate which is where those extra 2mm are usefull.

My 765 coverplate mounts 1-1.5mm below the friction surface using a 9.2mm thick sachs friction disc. When I shattered that disc I temporally tried to fit the Valeo sprinter disc which is 8mm, that 1.2mm difference meant I had no drive just pure clutch slip. So you need to get it correct.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
12-08-2020, 12:23 AM #25
Yes, i measured with the pressure plates bolted down.

My friction disc is only 7,3mm, so i had a 1,9mm step in the old flywheel to get the desired 9,2mm, no slipping!

But you are running 10,2-10,7 mm totl with your pressure plate Simon? Doesent that put you over the "sweetspot" of the pressureplate?
d557017
12-08-2020, 12:23 AM #25

Yes, i measured with the pressure plates bolted down.

My friction disc is only 7,3mm, so i had a 1,9mm step in the old flywheel to get the desired 9,2mm, no slipping!

But you are running 10,2-10,7 mm totl with your pressure plate Simon? Doesent that put you over the "sweetspot" of the pressureplate?

Simon B
K26-2

36
12-08-2020, 01:41 PM #26
You can go over the 9.2mm recommended to increase the clamping force of the pressure plate, I run an organic sprung plate so it needs a little help to hold the torque load. It does make the pedal a little heavy though.

That's why I wouldn't machine the rear of your flywheel, those extra 2mm would allow you to do the same if you need to.

The downside is that the clutch wont slip but it will shatter.
This post was last modified: 12-08-2020, 01:56 PM by Simon B.
Simon B
12-08-2020, 01:41 PM #26

You can go over the 9.2mm recommended to increase the clamping force of the pressure plate, I run an organic sprung plate so it needs a little help to hold the torque load. It does make the pedal a little heavy though.

That's why I wouldn't machine the rear of your flywheel, those extra 2mm would allow you to do the same if you need to.

The downside is that the clutch wont slip but it will shatter.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
12-19-2020, 02:20 PM #27
So, the flywheel has been modified and i have sent it away for balanceing.

Simon, may i ask what propshaft and gearbox crossmember you are using?
Attached Files
Image(s)
   
d557017
12-19-2020, 02:20 PM #27

So, the flywheel has been modified and i have sent it away for balanceing.

Simon, may i ask what propshaft and gearbox crossmember you are using?

Attached Files
Image(s)
   

Simon B
K26-2

36
12-20-2020, 10:49 AM #28
My gearbox crossmember is custom, I just welded it up from mild steel. I'll see if I can find a pic for you.

The propshaft is the original 320 rear section, with the front section from a w203. Part no: 2094100606.
Simon B
12-20-2020, 10:49 AM #28

My gearbox crossmember is custom, I just welded it up from mild steel. I'll see if I can find a pic for you.

The propshaft is the original 320 rear section, with the front section from a w203. Part no: 2094100606.

Gasoil
K26-2

46
12-21-2020, 04:23 PM #29
d557017, have you weight your flywheel? today I weifgt mine (Bolk, but can be a Valeo ) and exact is 16.114 grams. As you sys center hole of FW need be machined as 2mm, I tried fit it , crank 46mm diameter guide has 12mm height, FW has 11mm height, 1,5-2mm machining, a crown to clear crank guide.

Another issue is the 10x100 bolt lenght, kit bolts are 10,8 Grade 28,5 thread lenght, but stock bolts with Automatic "flywheel" protrude into threaded crank 14,2mm (24 mm crank threaded hole lenght), and the kit bolts protrude only 9mm with FW (18,5mm thick) and the big washer 2,8mm thick.

Then bolts can be at least 5mm longer for 9+5=14mm into crank, as stock , but can be longer, perhaps 40mm bolts, Grade 12.9.

Simon B, you fitted another pin dowel or leave the stock one?
Gasoil
12-21-2020, 04:23 PM #29

d557017, have you weight your flywheel? today I weifgt mine (Bolk, but can be a Valeo ) and exact is 16.114 grams. As you sys center hole of FW need be machined as 2mm, I tried fit it , crank 46mm diameter guide has 12mm height, FW has 11mm height, 1,5-2mm machining, a crown to clear crank guide.

Another issue is the 10x100 bolt lenght, kit bolts are 10,8 Grade 28,5 thread lenght, but stock bolts with Automatic "flywheel" protrude into threaded crank 14,2mm (24 mm crank threaded hole lenght), and the kit bolts protrude only 9mm with FW (18,5mm thick) and the big washer 2,8mm thick.

Then bolts can be at least 5mm longer for 9+5=14mm into crank, as stock , but can be longer, perhaps 40mm bolts, Grade 12.9.

Simon B, you fitted another pin dowel or leave the stock one?

Simon B
K26-2

36
12-21-2020, 06:45 PM #30
I left the stock dowel pin, no need to change it.

You don't need to use the washer behind the flywheel, that's for the auto only.
This post was last modified: 12-21-2020, 06:48 PM by Simon B.
Simon B
12-21-2020, 06:45 PM #30

I left the stock dowel pin, no need to change it.

You don't need to use the washer behind the flywheel, that's for the auto only.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
12-24-2020, 03:29 AM #31
I haven´t checked the weight of the flywheel, but i can do that when it comes back from balanceing, it is much heavier then the old one i had though, and it will be interesting to see how that effects the characteristics of the engine.

Merry Christmas everyone!
This post was last modified: 12-24-2020, 05:06 AM by d557017.
d557017
12-24-2020, 03:29 AM #31

I haven´t checked the weight of the flywheel, but i can do that when it comes back from balanceing, it is much heavier then the old one i had though, and it will be interesting to see how that effects the characteristics of the engine.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Gasoil
K26-2

46
12-25-2020, 10:12 AM #32
(12-21-2020, 06:45 PM)Simon B I left the stock dowel pin, no need to change it.

You don't need to use the washer behind the flywheel, that's for the auto only.

Then only the stock dowel pin, not added another one 180º?  Can be a good idea make a hole with fitted FW and theaded both and fit a Allen stud with Loctite for more security?
Well, 9+2,8 is 11,8mm of thread with kit bolts...

About weight 16,1Kg I see its a lot,   all that rear toothed crown can be removed as first step lightening, I´ll measure it , know his volume and look how can weight it using the steel density,  no exact but can give a very aprox number.
Gasoil
12-25-2020, 10:12 AM #32

(12-21-2020, 06:45 PM)Simon B I left the stock dowel pin, no need to change it.

You don't need to use the washer behind the flywheel, that's for the auto only.

Then only the stock dowel pin, not added another one 180º?  Can be a good idea make a hole with fitted FW and theaded both and fit a Allen stud with Loctite for more security?
Well, 9+2,8 is 11,8mm of thread with kit bolts...

About weight 16,1Kg I see its a lot,   all that rear toothed crown can be removed as first step lightening, I´ll measure it , know his volume and look how can weight it using the steel density,  no exact but can give a very aprox number.

Simon B
K26-2

36
12-25-2020, 03:15 PM #33
(12-25-2020, 10:12 AM)Gasoil
(12-21-2020, 06:45 PM)Simon B I left the stock dowel pin, no need to change it.

You don't need to use the washer behind the flywheel, that's for the auto only.

Then only the stock dowel pin, not added another one 180º?  Can be a good idea make a hole with fitted FW and theaded both and fit a Allen stud with Loctite for more security?
Well, 9+2,8 is 11,8mm of thread with kit bolts...

About weight 16,1Kg I see its a lot,   all that rear toothed crown can be removed as first step lightening, I´ll measure it , know his volume and look how can weight it using the steel density,  no exact but can give a very aprox number.
You could make another dowel pin if you want but it isnt needed, the clamping force of the flywheel bolts is more than enough to keep it in place.

I machined the raised area from the drive face of the flywheel to fit the 765 pressure plate, I didn't want to take any more weight out of the flywheel as the 606 behaves better with a heavy flywheel.
Simon B
12-25-2020, 03:15 PM #33

(12-25-2020, 10:12 AM)Gasoil
(12-21-2020, 06:45 PM)Simon B I left the stock dowel pin, no need to change it.

You don't need to use the washer behind the flywheel, that's for the auto only.

Then only the stock dowel pin, not added another one 180º?  Can be a good idea make a hole with fitted FW and theaded both and fit a Allen stud with Loctite for more security?
Well, 9+2,8 is 11,8mm of thread with kit bolts...

About weight 16,1Kg I see its a lot,   all that rear toothed crown can be removed as first step lightening, I´ll measure it , know his volume and look how can weight it using the steel density,  no exact but can give a very aprox number.
You could make another dowel pin if you want but it isnt needed, the clamping force of the flywheel bolts is more than enough to keep it in place.

I machined the raised area from the drive face of the flywheel to fit the 765 pressure plate, I didn't want to take any more weight out of the flywheel as the 606 behaves better with a heavy flywheel.

Gasoil
K26-2

46
12-26-2020, 02:31 PM #34
With the Automatic plate it idles perfectly, not know how it goes under driving, when started 2 OM606 in the floor.

Measuring that rear toothed crown and the 57 holes using the density of cast iron (7,2gr/cm3) gives 2.616 gr, then FW will be 13,5 Kg with kit clutch. As you say with 765 PP more weight removed.

Those teeth interference with the crank position sensor some tenths of mm, I tried turn engine but was blocked, removed that sensor.

Machined the guide center hole-crank in a small crown to 13mm (stock 11mm), now FW sits OK with crank.
Gasoil
12-26-2020, 02:31 PM #34

With the Automatic plate it idles perfectly, not know how it goes under driving, when started 2 OM606 in the floor.

Measuring that rear toothed crown and the 57 holes using the density of cast iron (7,2gr/cm3) gives 2.616 gr, then FW will be 13,5 Kg with kit clutch. As you say with 765 PP more weight removed.

Those teeth interference with the crank position sensor some tenths of mm, I tried turn engine but was blocked, removed that sensor.

Machined the guide center hole-crank in a small crown to 13mm (stock 11mm), now FW sits OK with crank.

Simon B
K26-2

36
12-26-2020, 04:43 PM #35
(12-26-2020, 02:31 PM)Gasoil With the Automatic plate it idles perfectly, not know how it goes under driving
With a light flywheel sometimes you get a jerking motion at low throttle driving and changing gear, a heavy flywheel helps stop that.
Simon B
12-26-2020, 04:43 PM #35

(12-26-2020, 02:31 PM)Gasoil With the Automatic plate it idles perfectly, not know how it goes under driving
With a light flywheel sometimes you get a jerking motion at low throttle driving and changing gear, a heavy flywheel helps stop that.

Gasoil
K26-2

46
12-28-2020, 09:05 AM #36
(12-26-2020, 04:43 PM)Simon B
(12-26-2020, 02:31 PM)Gasoil With the Automatic plate it idles perfectly, not know how it goes under driving
With a light flywheel sometimes you get a jerking motion at low throttle driving and changing gear, a heavy flywheel helps stop that.


Thanks by your advice Simon, usually in my gas engines use lightened FW´s,  at moment then leave it stock, if use with an stock OM606 177HP .  Later measure to know how weight it is removed when machining flat the front surface to fit 765 PP, and with 1,5mm step.

D557017, yesterday I went to a village 19Km from Alcalá de Henares, purchased a 6 speed gearbox from W204 CDI 170HP, .644 gearbox   250 euro,  and later went to lunch at Alcalá,  Miguel de Cervantes and Don Quijote !!!!!!! Big Grin

Measured that crown   to fit 765 PP, 285mm ext. dia.  244mm in.  dia.   height  8mm  plus 1,5mm for a 8mm thick disc (aprox)  give 1.165 grams,  then with this mod  about 15 Kg FW.
This post was last modified: 12-29-2020, 08:48 AM by Gasoil.
Gasoil
12-28-2020, 09:05 AM #36

(12-26-2020, 04:43 PM)Simon B
(12-26-2020, 02:31 PM)Gasoil With the Automatic plate it idles perfectly, not know how it goes under driving
With a light flywheel sometimes you get a jerking motion at low throttle driving and changing gear, a heavy flywheel helps stop that.


Thanks by your advice Simon, usually in my gas engines use lightened FW´s,  at moment then leave it stock, if use with an stock OM606 177HP .  Later measure to know how weight it is removed when machining flat the front surface to fit 765 PP, and with 1,5mm step.

D557017, yesterday I went to a village 19Km from Alcalá de Henares, purchased a 6 speed gearbox from W204 CDI 170HP, .644 gearbox   250 euro,  and later went to lunch at Alcalá,  Miguel de Cervantes and Don Quijote !!!!!!! Big Grin

Measured that crown   to fit 765 PP, 285mm ext. dia.  244mm in.  dia.   height  8mm  plus 1,5mm for a 8mm thick disc (aprox)  give 1.165 grams,  then with this mod  about 15 Kg FW.

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
01-03-2021, 03:52 AM #37
That was a good price for the gearbox Gasoil!
How is the weather in your part of the world? i heard it has been quite cold lately?

Still waiting to get my flywheel back Blush
d557017
01-03-2021, 03:52 AM #37

That was a good price for the gearbox Gasoil!
How is the weather in your part of the world? i heard it has been quite cold lately?

Still waiting to get my flywheel back Blush

Gasoil
K26-2

46
01-14-2021, 03:28 PM #38
I see price 400-600 euro range for an W204 CDI gearbox here, this was from a private seller.  OM606.962 engines are 500-1200 euro range, that 1.200 euro engines never sold, very expensive.  For example an 227.000Km engine see at 544 euro with VAT (here IVA), but if you pay with bills and get it in  person engine is 429 euro, VAT 21%.  See more OM606.962 engines, one 128.000Km, 600 euro, but broken sump, no plastic top cover, no intake manifold, another 133.000Km for 900 euro.

Weather now is a bit crazy, last Saturday 9-1-21 was snowing 25-30cm, a storm called "Filomena" arrived, later arrived cold, snow was frozen, very dangerous walking in ice,  -20ºC in Teruel,  some villages in Madrid at -16ºC ,  never seen that snow levels ,  70-80 yo people not remember that amount of snow.

Hope you get your FW soon.
Attached Files
Image(s)
   
Gasoil
01-14-2021, 03:28 PM #38

I see price 400-600 euro range for an W204 CDI gearbox here, this was from a private seller.  OM606.962 engines are 500-1200 euro range, that 1.200 euro engines never sold, very expensive.  For example an 227.000Km engine see at 544 euro with VAT (here IVA), but if you pay with bills and get it in  person engine is 429 euro, VAT 21%.  See more OM606.962 engines, one 128.000Km, 600 euro, but broken sump, no plastic top cover, no intake manifold, another 133.000Km for 900 euro.

Weather now is a bit crazy, last Saturday 9-1-21 was snowing 25-30cm, a storm called "Filomena" arrived, later arrived cold, snow was frozen, very dangerous walking in ice,  -20ºC in Teruel,  some villages in Madrid at -16ºC ,  never seen that snow levels ,  70-80 yo people not remember that amount of snow.

Hope you get your FW soon.

Attached Files
Image(s)
   

d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
01-22-2021, 12:35 PM #39
Now the flywheel is back from balanceing, it ways 14 Kilograms after modifications, the modified OM 603 flywheel i used before only weighed 5,2 Kiligrams.
The flywheel was not very out of balance it turned out, only 4 grams to correct.
Attached Files
Image(s)
   
d557017
01-22-2021, 12:35 PM #39

Now the flywheel is back from balanceing, it ways 14 Kilograms after modifications, the modified OM 603 flywheel i used before only weighed 5,2 Kiligrams.
The flywheel was not very out of balance it turned out, only 4 grams to correct.

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d557017
Naturally-aspirated

19
01-24-2021, 09:44 AM #40
Put the flywheel and clutch on the engine today, also put the gearbox in it´s place by a few bolts, next i want to test if the clutch works before i do anything more, but i don´t have a quick coupler style connection that fits the clutch slave cylinder, any tips on what to use?
d557017
01-24-2021, 09:44 AM #40

Put the flywheel and clutch on the engine today, also put the gearbox in it´s place by a few bolts, next i want to test if the clutch works before i do anything more, but i don´t have a quick coupler style connection that fits the clutch slave cylinder, any tips on what to use?

Simon B
K26-2

36
01-24-2021, 10:32 AM #41
Alot of modern cars have that fitting, just cut one out of a scrap car.

I've got a braided line coming from the master cylinder, with a compression joint onto the original pipe.
Simon B
01-24-2021, 10:32 AM #41

Alot of modern cars have that fitting, just cut one out of a scrap car.

I've got a braided line coming from the master cylinder, with a compression joint onto the original pipe.

 
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