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Purple 220D

Purple 220D

 
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Purplecomputer
Slowness 220D

897
06-14-2020, 04:14 PM #13
(06-13-2020, 09:53 AM)Greazzer By the way, there is a RECALL on your Horrible Freight jack stands right now.  BE CAREFULE !

No worries! These are the new ones that do not have a recall, but who knows, I still might end up like a pancake!




Quote:To save an incredible amount of time, I suggest taking it apart with tons of pictures and then taking those parts to a powder coater.  Cleaning them will take a lot of time.  Powder coating is not that expensive.  I would make sure the powder coater is used to car parts, machined surfaces, et cet.  There's a specific chassis black as well unless you just want glossy.  For me, my time is the most important resource I have.  I have invested and wasted hours and hours trying to clean stuff up.  I learned a while ago, if you can, find a good powder coater in your area who caters to the car nuts out there.  Saving 3 or 4 hours for $100 or so dollars for a virtually new looking sub-frame is worth every penny to me.  The sub-frame probably has little rust because of all the grease and grime.  Also, I learned a while ago, having everything near surgically clean is the first starting point.  Having a ton of gunk in your way vs. like new is like day and night.  I am sure there are kits out there for all that new rubber.  If all that new rubber just bolts on, then having all newly powder coated surfaces is the way to go IMO.  Make sure the shop knows to plug up all orifices and tape off all machined surfaces, et cet.  I have not really tinkered with my cars for a while except here and there, but I am getting back to things here shortly.  I will start working on my AMG wanna-be thread.  If it was me, I would NOT buy different springs.  If you want to lower it, just cut a 1/2 max if you have the thicker rubber shims.  You can make up the different.  I do not know how interchangable W123 parts are with the older MBs such as yours.  Plus, I am positive all those mods have been done before.  Just finding them is the trick.

I love the look of the older styles.


I was able to take everything apart today and did a DIY Parts cleaned with a plastic tub, but I need to hit it again as there so much grease & oil. My bursh was toast so i need to pick up a coarser brush eventually.Im pretty sure that reason theres oil is the oil pan gasket is toast, so that should be an easy fit. Powerder coating is not a bad idea, i'll check the area and see whats there. I dont think im far from you. Im near the border of SC so if you know of any good places, let me know!

I think with the cleaning & electrolysis, I should be able to end up with something very clean to take to a shop if I decide to go that route.

Quote:Strongly recommend you not cut springs. See how the end coils are at different angles than the middle ones? If you remove those, you mess up spring rate progression, which IME (mostly on BMW) makes a well-tuned German car ride like something Uncle Lester cobbled together in the barn out of antique tractor parts in between running the moonshine still.

If you want to lower, either find different springs to put in there, or have yours compressed and heat-treated by a spring shop. Or better yet, wait until your new engine is in and the weight finalized.

I honestly, dont think I'll be putting in a 617 N/A anytime soon. Im pretty keen on those H&R springs as they seem to be perfect for what im going for. They are just expensive, so if you anyone has pre-made lowering springs, or even used H&R ones, let me know.
Purplecomputer
06-14-2020, 04:14 PM #13

(06-13-2020, 09:53 AM)Greazzer By the way, there is a RECALL on your Horrible Freight jack stands right now.  BE CAREFULE !

No worries! These are the new ones that do not have a recall, but who knows, I still might end up like a pancake!




Quote:To save an incredible amount of time, I suggest taking it apart with tons of pictures and then taking those parts to a powder coater.  Cleaning them will take a lot of time.  Powder coating is not that expensive.  I would make sure the powder coater is used to car parts, machined surfaces, et cet.  There's a specific chassis black as well unless you just want glossy.  For me, my time is the most important resource I have.  I have invested and wasted hours and hours trying to clean stuff up.  I learned a while ago, if you can, find a good powder coater in your area who caters to the car nuts out there.  Saving 3 or 4 hours for $100 or so dollars for a virtually new looking sub-frame is worth every penny to me.  The sub-frame probably has little rust because of all the grease and grime.  Also, I learned a while ago, having everything near surgically clean is the first starting point.  Having a ton of gunk in your way vs. like new is like day and night.  I am sure there are kits out there for all that new rubber.  If all that new rubber just bolts on, then having all newly powder coated surfaces is the way to go IMO.  Make sure the shop knows to plug up all orifices and tape off all machined surfaces, et cet.  I have not really tinkered with my cars for a while except here and there, but I am getting back to things here shortly.  I will start working on my AMG wanna-be thread.  If it was me, I would NOT buy different springs.  If you want to lower it, just cut a 1/2 max if you have the thicker rubber shims.  You can make up the different.  I do not know how interchangable W123 parts are with the older MBs such as yours.  Plus, I am positive all those mods have been done before.  Just finding them is the trick.

I love the look of the older styles.


I was able to take everything apart today and did a DIY Parts cleaned with a plastic tub, but I need to hit it again as there so much grease & oil. My bursh was toast so i need to pick up a coarser brush eventually.Im pretty sure that reason theres oil is the oil pan gasket is toast, so that should be an easy fit. Powerder coating is not a bad idea, i'll check the area and see whats there. I dont think im far from you. Im near the border of SC so if you know of any good places, let me know!

I think with the cleaning & electrolysis, I should be able to end up with something very clean to take to a shop if I decide to go that route.

Quote:Strongly recommend you not cut springs. See how the end coils are at different angles than the middle ones? If you remove those, you mess up spring rate progression, which IME (mostly on BMW) makes a well-tuned German car ride like something Uncle Lester cobbled together in the barn out of antique tractor parts in between running the moonshine still.

If you want to lower, either find different springs to put in there, or have yours compressed and heat-treated by a spring shop. Or better yet, wait until your new engine is in and the weight finalized.

I honestly, dont think I'll be putting in a 617 N/A anytime soon. Im pretty keen on those H&R springs as they seem to be perfect for what im going for. They are just expensive, so if you anyone has pre-made lowering springs, or even used H&R ones, let me know.

 
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Messages In This Thread
Purple 220D - by Purplecomputer - 06-02-2020, 01:00 PM
RE: Purple 220D - by Purplecomputer - 06-02-2020, 03:21 PM
RE: Purple 220D - by Greazzer - 06-07-2020, 10:43 AM
RE: Purple 220D - by Purplecomputer - 06-08-2020, 08:34 AM
RE: Purple 220D - by Purplecomputer - 06-08-2020, 07:30 PM
RE: Purple 220D - by Purplecomputer - 06-09-2020, 03:33 PM
RE: Purple 220D - by Purplecomputer - 06-12-2020, 03:27 PM
RE: Purple 220D - by Greazzer - 06-13-2020, 09:41 AM
RE: Purple 220D - by Greazzer - 06-13-2020, 09:49 AM
RE: Purple 220D - by Greazzer - 06-13-2020, 09:53 AM
RE: Purple 220D - by Purplecomputer - 06-14-2020, 04:14 PM
RE: Purple 220D - by moroza - 06-13-2020, 05:39 PM
RE: Purple 220D - by Greazzer - 06-14-2020, 10:29 AM
RE: Purple 220D - by Greazzer - 06-15-2020, 08:19 AM
RE: Purple 220D - by Purplecomputer - 06-15-2020, 01:08 PM
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