Holset HX30 Install
Holset HX30 Install
So far I have:
Holset HX30
stock exhaust manifold drilled and tapped for EGT probe, ceramic coated
W115 NA intake (that is getting ceramic coated)
T3 undivided plate to raise turbo for clocking to run IC
IC from 200tdi Land Rover Defender - lower port was cut and rewelded to a better angle
I have a few questions:
- what is the best size for the oil feed. The Holset has a M12x1.5 thread. I was going to buy one of these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-9919bfgerl then weld an AN-4 bung to the stock oil line and run AN hose to the turbo.
- what is the best setup for drain. I was originally thinking AN-10 since I have some parts but thinking at least AN-12 and possibly even bigger. I was going to order this for the turbo drain plate and go 1/2" NPT to a AN-12 adapter. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551167
Tubing to the IC and back will be 2"
Thanks for any insight/thoughts
I have been gathering parts and looking to install a Holset HX30 soon.
So far I have:
Holset HX30
stock exhaust manifold drilled and tapped for EGT probe, ceramic coated
W115 NA intake (that is getting ceramic coated)
T3 undivided plate to raise turbo for clocking to run IC
IC from 200tdi Land Rover Defender - lower port was cut and rewelded to a better angle
I have a few questions:
- what is the best size for the oil feed. The Holset has a M12x1.5 thread. I was going to buy one of these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-9919bfgerl then weld an AN-4 bung to the stock oil line and run AN hose to the turbo.
- what is the best setup for drain. I was originally thinking AN-10 since I have some parts but thinking at least AN-12 and possibly even bigger. I was going to order this for the turbo drain plate and go 1/2" NPT to a AN-12 adapter. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551167
Tubing to the IC and back will be 2"
Thanks for any insight/thoughts
https://smile.amazon.com/Upgr8-Stainless...s=oil+feed
For drain, I cut most of the stock pipe out and used generic clear hose that has the white nylon in it, you can get it at a hardware store cheap. Slips right over the drain outlet, but for the section going into the block I had to heat up the hose to slide it onto that part. If you can find a cleaner option it would probably be less hassle, but this worked for me and I am still using it too.
My HX30 was kind of a hack job but it worked fine. You can weld the bung if you want, but I bought an adapter that plugged into the engine block oil feed hole and had a 1/8" NPT outlet. I am still using it, but I don't remember the thread size so sorry on that. I then used this cheap line between the adapter and the fitting on the turbo
https://smile.amazon.com/Upgr8-Stainless...s=oil+feed
For drain, I cut most of the stock pipe out and used generic clear hose that has the white nylon in it, you can get it at a hardware store cheap. Slips right over the drain outlet, but for the section going into the block I had to heat up the hose to slide it onto that part. If you can find a cleaner option it would probably be less hassle, but this worked for me and I am still using it too.
(06-12-2017, 11:29 AM)awsrock My HX30 was kind of a hack job but it worked fine. You can weld the bung if you want, but I bought an adapter that plugged into the engine block oil feed hole and had a 1/8" NPT outlet. I am still using it, but I don't remember the thread size so sorry on that. I then used this cheap line between the adapter and the fitting on the turbo
https://smile.amazon.com/Upgr8-Stainless...s=oil+feed
For drain, I cut most of the stock pipe out and used generic clear hose that has the white nylon in it, you can get it at a hardware store cheap. Slips right over the drain outlet, but for the section going into the block I had to heat up the hose to slide it onto that part. If you can find a cleaner option it would probably be less hassle, but this worked for me and I am still using it too.
Thanks!
I will do a full -4AN braided hose from the block. I'm sure I can figure out the thread size and it will save me from welding the bung and just have one line to keep a cleaner install.
On a side note - how do you like the HX30? I am hoping it matches up with the 7mm M Pump I got from barotte.
(06-12-2017, 11:29 AM)awsrock My HX30 was kind of a hack job but it worked fine. You can weld the bung if you want, but I bought an adapter that plugged into the engine block oil feed hole and had a 1/8" NPT outlet. I am still using it, but I don't remember the thread size so sorry on that. I then used this cheap line between the adapter and the fitting on the turbo
https://smile.amazon.com/Upgr8-Stainless...s=oil+feed
For drain, I cut most of the stock pipe out and used generic clear hose that has the white nylon in it, you can get it at a hardware store cheap. Slips right over the drain outlet, but for the section going into the block I had to heat up the hose to slide it onto that part. If you can find a cleaner option it would probably be less hassle, but this worked for me and I am still using it too.
Thanks!
I will do a full -4AN braided hose from the block. I'm sure I can figure out the thread size and it will save me from welding the bung and just have one line to keep a cleaner install.
On a side note - how do you like the HX30? I am hoping it matches up with the 7mm M Pump I got from barotte.
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
For my HX30 swap I used the inlet and drain off the old T3. Chopped the pipe off the cast bit and tapped it for a An-3 adaptor (should've gone AN-4 but it's what the hydraulic place had). Then got the turbo CHRA drilled and tapped to bolt the inlet onto the turbo. The drain bolted up fine I just needed to make a gasket myself, I'm converting my drain to AN-10 right now and got a brass adaptor brazed onto the pipe. Because it's a NA turbo conversion I have a AN-10 bulkhead flitting to fit in my sump when I get around to it....
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
(06-12-2017, 07:43 PM)NZScott For my HX30 swap I used the inlet and drain off the old T3. Chopped the pipe off the cast bit and tapped it for a An-3 adaptor (should've gone AN-4 but it's what the hydraulic place had). Then got the turbo CHRA drilled and tapped to bolt the inlet onto the turbo. The drain bolted up fine I just needed to make a gasket myself, I'm converting my drain to AN-10 right now and got a brass adaptor brazed onto the pipe. Because it's a NA turbo conversion I have a AN-10 bulkhead flitting to fit in my sump when I get around to it....
Thanks!
I think I'll go with the AN-12 just to be safe for the drain.
I will try and post pics when I get to actually installing.
(06-12-2017, 07:43 PM)NZScott For my HX30 swap I used the inlet and drain off the old T3. Chopped the pipe off the cast bit and tapped it for a An-3 adaptor (should've gone AN-4 but it's what the hydraulic place had). Then got the turbo CHRA drilled and tapped to bolt the inlet onto the turbo. The drain bolted up fine I just needed to make a gasket myself, I'm converting my drain to AN-10 right now and got a brass adaptor brazed onto the pipe. Because it's a NA turbo conversion I have a AN-10 bulkhead flitting to fit in my sump when I get around to it....
Thanks!
I think I'll go with the AN-12 just to be safe for the drain.
I will try and post pics when I get to actually installing.
I ended up cutting the stock Mercedes drain tube and rewelding it to get it to feed around the turbo and wastegate hardware. Then welded a AN-12 bung at the end of it. A short run with a 45 then a 90 on the AN hose and it feeds into the oil pan (custom made jobber from Robert Davis for the Land Rover).
The HX30 is clocked and install to the exhaust manifold. I went to install the oil feed last night but my plan of reusing some AN-10 tubing and welding a bung wasn't going to work so I ordered some AN-6 tubing and components from Summit.
Hoping to start making an exhaust downpipe today.
I'd like to post pics but the site won't let me.
UPDATE:
I ended up cutting the stock Mercedes drain tube and rewelding it to get it to feed around the turbo and wastegate hardware. Then welded a AN-12 bung at the end of it. A short run with a 45 then a 90 on the AN hose and it feeds into the oil pan (custom made jobber from Robert Davis for the Land Rover).
The HX30 is clocked and install to the exhaust manifold. I went to install the oil feed last night but my plan of reusing some AN-10 tubing and welding a bung wasn't going to work so I ordered some AN-6 tubing and components from Summit.
Hoping to start making an exhaust downpipe today.
I'd like to post pics but the site won't let me.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1502986932
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1502987208
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1502987453
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1502987453
Maybe linking to the pictures of my overall build thread will work?
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1502986932
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1502987208
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1502987453
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1502987453
Work look really clean.
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Links work if clicked on.
Work look really clean.
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Overall very happy even though it took me much longer to complete.
The only item I have to finish up is the intake. I'm running a AEM cone filter to a 3" flex tube. I don't know what the CFM is for the filter and I'm sure it won't be up to the task of filtering out dirt especially in an off-road environment.
New downpipe made out of 2.5" SS and a flex section:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
-AN6 oil feed:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
I finally got the HX30 install and some test miles on it.
Overall very happy even though it took me much longer to complete.
The only item I have to finish up is the intake. I'm running a AEM cone filter to a 3" flex tube. I don't know what the CFM is for the filter and I'm sure it won't be up to the task of filtering out dirt especially in an off-road environment.
New downpipe made out of 2.5" SS and a flex section:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
-AN6 oil feed:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
Top of engine bay with IC tubing complete:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
IC tubing from turbo and to intake:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704534
Another engine bay - I used the stock LR IC from a 200tdi and cut the bottom tube and ran it straight for a better run of the tubing:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704534
View from under the 110 - AN12 line to oil pan:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
Top of engine bay with IC tubing complete:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704037
IC tubing from turbo and to intake:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704534
Another engine bay - I used the stock LR IC from a 200tdi and cut the bottom tube and ran it straight for a better run of the tubing:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1504704534
It looks like you have enough room to put in an enclosed airbox...if you relocate the oil catch can closer to the engine.
I'm planning a similar project on my 83 W126 300SD, the chageover to a 85 factory fender mounted air box is done.
Next is to install the Mishimoto baffled oil catch can to keep recovered crankcase oil and crankcase oil vapors out of the turbo air inlet pipe.
The recovered crankcase oil will drain directly into the small return nipple on the sump
The sintered bronze filter should allow only clean air back into the turbo inlet pipe via the airbox.
This avoids coating the planned intercooler with oil.
If you mount a vertical bracket to the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the block, you can tuck the oil catch can close to the valve cover.
The bolts will probably need to be a bit longer...I'm planning on using quarter inch thick aluminum plate for my bracket.
Alternatively, there also looks to be enough room for an enclosed air box tucked behind (or in place of) the current location of the windshield washer reservoir.
I'm still puzzling out where to fit an enclosed air box on my 78 W116 300SD when I install the W115 longrunner intake..
The engine bay is much more crowded than the W126.
I may need to relocate the battery to the trunk in order to make room.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Niice clean install!
It looks like you have enough room to put in an enclosed airbox...if you relocate the oil catch can closer to the engine.
I'm planning a similar project on my 83 W126 300SD, the chageover to a 85 factory fender mounted air box is done.
Next is to install the Mishimoto baffled oil catch can to keep recovered crankcase oil and crankcase oil vapors out of the turbo air inlet pipe.
The recovered crankcase oil will drain directly into the small return nipple on the sump
The sintered bronze filter should allow only clean air back into the turbo inlet pipe via the airbox.
This avoids coating the planned intercooler with oil.
If you mount a vertical bracket to the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the block, you can tuck the oil catch can close to the valve cover.
The bolts will probably need to be a bit longer...I'm planning on using quarter inch thick aluminum plate for my bracket.
Alternatively, there also looks to be enough room for an enclosed air box tucked behind (or in place of) the current location of the windshield washer reservoir.
I'm still puzzling out where to fit an enclosed air box on my 78 W116 300SD when I install the W115 longrunner intake..
The engine bay is much more crowded than the W126.
I may need to relocate the battery to the trunk in order to make room.
Keep us posted on your progress.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1506090141
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1506090141
WIX Filter 546743 - https://www.catamac.com.au/filters/18300...ilter.aspx
Alec - sorry it's taken me so long but I finally hooked up an air filter. I moved the oil catch can but it actually fit in a better spot.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1506090141
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/atta...1506090141
WIX Filter 546743 - https://www.catamac.com.au/filters/18300...ilter.aspx
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