STD Tuning Engine W210 priming a dry Injection Pump

W210 priming a dry Injection Pump

W210 priming a dry Injection Pump

 
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50harleyrider
GTA2359VK

397
03-06-2017, 12:37 PM #1
I'm not having any luck starting my om606.962 after the fuel lines were removed for my swap. I figured just a crack of the injector lines would be enough but not so. I'm supplying 12v switched power to the yellow/blk wire at the solenoid and grounding the brown wire but nothing. I always pull fuel via a mighty vac through my TDIs' IP whenever I replace an IP or lose prime through the fuel filter before I crack the injector lines but don't see anywhere to do it on the 606. I have  a lift pump so am surprised by the hard to prime and lack of fuel at the injectors. Air can be tough to purge on any diesel but my lack of experience on the 606 leaves me baffled. Any suggestions?
This post was last modified: 03-06-2017, 12:38 PM by 50harleyrider.
50harleyrider
03-06-2017, 12:37 PM #1

I'm not having any luck starting my om606.962 after the fuel lines were removed for my swap. I figured just a crack of the injector lines would be enough but not so. I'm supplying 12v switched power to the yellow/blk wire at the solenoid and grounding the brown wire but nothing. I always pull fuel via a mighty vac through my TDIs' IP whenever I replace an IP or lose prime through the fuel filter before I crack the injector lines but don't see anywhere to do it on the 606. I have  a lift pump so am surprised by the hard to prime and lack of fuel at the injectors. Air can be tough to purge on any diesel but my lack of experience on the 606 leaves me baffled. Any suggestions?

barrote
Superturbo

1,627
03-06-2017, 03:04 PM #2
usually u fill the filter with fuel, then start key for crank of 1 minute after some 3 or 4 cranking cycles the pump start to catch up and from then on it will fire. unless u have some hose out of place or leaking. (the lift pump being in good shape can bleed the thing, its not necessary to relief injector lines, only full THR all the time)
good luck.

FD,
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barrote
03-06-2017, 03:04 PM #2

usually u fill the filter with fuel, then start key for crank of 1 minute after some 3 or 4 cranking cycles the pump start to catch up and from then on it will fire. unless u have some hose out of place or leaking. (the lift pump being in good shape can bleed the thing, its not necessary to relief injector lines, only full THR all the time)
good luck.


FD,
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50harleyrider
GTA2359VK

397
03-06-2017, 08:25 PM #3
Thanks barrote. I cranked the engine at least 10 cranking cycles and no luck. Is there any way I can verify IP is actually working? Only the supply and return lines were opened when I did the swap. The filter was never changed and appears full of fuel. The lift pump will fill a liter jar in just a few seconds. I verified 12v at the black plastic box fuel shut off electrical connection (pin3) and most importantly the engine was running fine when I pulled it out of the donor car.
50harleyrider
03-06-2017, 08:25 PM #3

Thanks barrote. I cranked the engine at least 10 cranking cycles and no luck. Is there any way I can verify IP is actually working? Only the supply and return lines were opened when I did the swap. The filter was never changed and appears full of fuel. The lift pump will fill a liter jar in just a few seconds. I verified 12v at the black plastic box fuel shut off electrical connection (pin3) and most importantly the engine was running fine when I pulled it out of the donor car.

AlanMcR
mind - blown

400
03-06-2017, 11:00 PM #4
Is the ECU telling the IP to move the fuel control rod? If not, it will never fire.
AlanMcR
03-06-2017, 11:00 PM #4

Is the ECU telling the IP to move the fuel control rod? If not, it will never fire.

barrote
Superturbo

1,627
03-07-2017, 01:47 AM #5
A swap? Well. The black thing is the imobilizer. (Cuts fuel to pump if certain conditions are met) The pump is totally controlled via rack actuator solenoid. Or the (ECU) is in starting function and in control or not.
Either way u remove the side cover, and check for rack movement.( Idle is about 5mm movement) try get the engine fire moving the rack by hand (full forward) . Then u got to find out wich bug is where by yourself. (rack may be stuck happens often).
I thought u were using a dsl1 unit. If so u need to calibrate the thing....
This post was last modified: 03-07-2017, 02:42 AM by barrote.

FD,
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barrote
03-07-2017, 01:47 AM #5

A swap? Well. The black thing is the imobilizer. (Cuts fuel to pump if certain conditions are met) The pump is totally controlled via rack actuator solenoid. Or the (ECU) is in starting function and in control or not.
Either way u remove the side cover, and check for rack movement.( Idle is about 5mm movement) try get the engine fire moving the rack by hand (full forward) . Then u got to find out wich bug is where by yourself. (rack may be stuck happens often).
I thought u were using a dsl1 unit. If so u need to calibrate the thing....


FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

50harleyrider
GTA2359VK

397
03-07-2017, 08:51 AM #6
(03-07-2017, 01:47 AM)barrote A swap? Well. The black thing is the imobilizer. (Cuts fuel to pump if certain conditions are met) The pump is totally controlled via rack actuator solenoid. Or the (ECU) is in starting function and in control or not.
Either way u remove the side cover, and check for rack movement.( Idle is about 5mm movement) try get the engine fire moving the rack by hand (full forward) . Then u got to find out wich bug is where by yourself. (rack may be stuck happens often).
I thought u were using a dsl1 unit. If so u need to calibrate the thing....

Baldur has instructed me to check  if rack is stuck also. He has also told me to check the reported values and errors in the ecu software. Thanks for your input guys.
This post was last modified: 03-07-2017, 08:53 AM by 50harleyrider.
50harleyrider
03-07-2017, 08:51 AM #6

(03-07-2017, 01:47 AM)barrote A swap? Well. The black thing is the imobilizer. (Cuts fuel to pump if certain conditions are met) The pump is totally controlled via rack actuator solenoid. Or the (ECU) is in starting function and in control or not.
Either way u remove the side cover, and check for rack movement.( Idle is about 5mm movement) try get the engine fire moving the rack by hand (full forward) . Then u got to find out wich bug is where by yourself. (rack may be stuck happens often).
I thought u were using a dsl1 unit. If so u need to calibrate the thing....

Baldur has instructed me to check  if rack is stuck also. He has also told me to check the reported values and errors in the ecu software. Thanks for your input guys.

starynovy
Holset

338
03-07-2017, 08:57 AM #7
Well I changed O-rings on plastic hoses once and funny enough they can be connected wrong without looking bent etc. Big Grin Had a good half of hour of head sratching before googling OM605 diesel lines layout.. then it fired after 20s of cranking.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
starynovy
03-07-2017, 08:57 AM #7

Well I changed O-rings on plastic hoses once and funny enough they can be connected wrong without looking bent etc. Big Grin Had a good half of hour of head sratching before googling OM605 diesel lines layout.. then it fired after 20s of cranking.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW

Austincarnut
Holset

298
03-07-2017, 06:48 PM #8
(03-06-2017, 12:37 PM)50harleyrider I'm not having any luck starting my om606.962 after the fuel lines were removed for my swap. I figured just a crack of the injector lines would be enough but not so. I'm supplying 12v switched power to the yellow/blk wire at the solenoid and grounding the brown wire but nothing. I always pull fuel via a mighty vac through my TDIs' IP whenever I replace an IP or lose prime through the fuel filter before I crack the injector lines but don't see anywhere to do it on the 606. I have  a lift pump so am surprised by the hard to prime and lack of fuel at the injectors. Air can be tough to purge on any diesel but my lack of experience on the 606 leaves me baffled. Any suggestions?

Grab your return line and pull a vacuum on it with the mityvac then crack an injection line loose, crank till you get fuel and bleed from there.  It can take a few cranks but it beats trying to purge air with the pressure of the lift pump.
Austincarnut
03-07-2017, 06:48 PM #8

(03-06-2017, 12:37 PM)50harleyrider I'm not having any luck starting my om606.962 after the fuel lines were removed for my swap. I figured just a crack of the injector lines would be enough but not so. I'm supplying 12v switched power to the yellow/blk wire at the solenoid and grounding the brown wire but nothing. I always pull fuel via a mighty vac through my TDIs' IP whenever I replace an IP or lose prime through the fuel filter before I crack the injector lines but don't see anywhere to do it on the 606. I have  a lift pump so am surprised by the hard to prime and lack of fuel at the injectors. Air can be tough to purge on any diesel but my lack of experience on the 606 leaves me baffled. Any suggestions?

Grab your return line and pull a vacuum on it with the mityvac then crack an injection line loose, crank till you get fuel and bleed from there.  It can take a few cranks but it beats trying to purge air with the pressure of the lift pump.

charlysays
GTA2056V

96
03-09-2017, 04:22 AM #9
(03-07-2017, 08:57 AM)starynovy Well I changed O-rings on plastic hoses once and funny enough they can be connected wrong without looking bent etc. Big Grin Had a good half of hour of head sratching before googling OM605 diesel lines layout.. then it fired after 20s of cranking.

I did exactly the same thing the first time I had to change the pip O-rings lol.
charlysays
03-09-2017, 04:22 AM #9

(03-07-2017, 08:57 AM)starynovy Well I changed O-rings on plastic hoses once and funny enough they can be connected wrong without looking bent etc. Big Grin Had a good half of hour of head sratching before googling OM605 diesel lines layout.. then it fired after 20s of cranking.

I did exactly the same thing the first time I had to change the pip O-rings lol.

50harleyrider
GTA2359VK

397
03-10-2017, 07:23 PM #10
Truck fired right up today. These engines definitely need glow to start with the prechamber and all. Baldurs' DSL1 ecu does indeed work nicely, the software is user friendly, and he is super supportive. I'm having a little glow relay issue now and I'm sure Baldur will figure it out. Thanks for all the support.
This post was last modified: 03-10-2017, 07:24 PM by 50harleyrider.
50harleyrider
03-10-2017, 07:23 PM #10

Truck fired right up today. These engines definitely need glow to start with the prechamber and all. Baldurs' DSL1 ecu does indeed work nicely, the software is user friendly, and he is super supportive. I'm having a little glow relay issue now and I'm sure Baldur will figure it out. Thanks for all the support.

starynovy
Holset

338
03-11-2017, 07:27 AM #11
Well that explains a lot, IDI will struggle to fire without preglow even in hot summer.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
starynovy
03-11-2017, 07:27 AM #11

Well that explains a lot, IDI will struggle to fire without preglow even in hot summer.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW

 
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