mercedes repare set for injector holder bolt
mercedes repare set for injector holder bolt
Time-sert 1610E2 M6*1.0 extended metric thread kit like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Time-Sert-1610E2...39&vxp=mtr
is that really a good price?
guidens like this seams resonally since I have never done the procedure before
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/wp-...AN0027.pdf
One bult have the former owner tried to fix by sett bigger bult and you can say it sure do not work, not possible to go in the car when ventilation is on.
I even thinks he has pucture one oil channel
tips is highly appreciated
Well my new mercedes 320cdi for 400euro needs some attention, some one have some suggestion where one can find this
Time-sert 1610E2 M6*1.0 extended metric thread kit like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Time-Sert-1610E2...39&vxp=mtr
is that really a good price?
guidens like this seams resonally since I have never done the procedure before
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/wp-...AN0027.pdf
One bult have the former owner tried to fix by sett bigger bult and you can say it sure do not work, not possible to go in the car when ventilation is on.
I even thinks he has pucture one oil channel
tips is highly appreciated
Dont use that , that will in the future bring u to the same stage as u are now.
here in my planet we drill new threads M8 /M10/1.5 depending on the damage in the head , then we insert a 2 side threaded bolt glued with locktite 270 or similar , and tight the injector with a nut, in a m8 thread.
i´m not able to show u the "part" but i´ll make some pictures for u , if u really want.
basically , if u still can use the 8mil threads , u can make use of exaust pins , many veicles use a exagon pin m8 thread.(min hardness 10.8)
regards
FD,
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hy ,
Dont use that , that will in the future bring u to the same stage as u are now.
here in my planet we drill new threads M8 /M10/1.5 depending on the damage in the head , then we insert a 2 side threaded bolt glued with locktite 270 or similar , and tight the injector with a nut, in a m8 thread.
i´m not able to show u the "part" but i´ll make some pictures for u , if u really want.
basically , if u still can use the 8mil threads , u can make use of exaust pins , many veicles use a exagon pin m8 thread.(min hardness 10.8)
regards
FD,
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Some idiots tend to tap M8 thread right at the top of the hole and put there short M8 bolt-dont do this. Original M6 bolt is torque to yeld bolt which implies constant pressure on injector all the time, warm or cold.. regular bolt will not do this and soon enough you have leak.
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Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
As barrotte says, Bore original hole with 8mm drill. Then bore hole with 10.5mm drill leaving bottom 2cm portion. In this portion you will tap M10 metric thread. Then you will make/buy insert which basicaly is 2cm long M10 stud bored through and taped with M6 thread. Add some loctite to stud and screw it in your new M10 thread at the bottom. There you go, better than factory.
Some idiots tend to tap M8 thread right at the top of the hole and put there short M8 bolt-dont do this. Original M6 bolt is torque to yeld bolt which implies constant pressure on injector all the time, warm or cold.. regular bolt will not do this and soon enough you have leak.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
hehe
FD,
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SO you want to use helical bottom M10*1,0 and inside M8*1,25?
original M6*1,0 is suppose to be 7Nm and + 90 degree, some do say180 degrees, what about this?
helicoil, time-sert?
Starynovy thanks for the input
you want me to use bottom M10*1,25 200 deep and use orginal M6*1,0 79mm studs?
as you said a idiot has been here before and did eactly what you descibe is happening...
Time-sert helicoil?
will M6 hold for heavily tune engine?
Barrrote thanks for the input
SO you want to use helical bottom M10*1,0 and inside M8*1,25?
original M6*1,0 is suppose to be 7Nm and + 90 degree, some do say180 degrees, what about this?
helicoil, time-sert?
Starynovy thanks for the input
you want me to use bottom M10*1,25 200 deep and use orginal M6*1,0 79mm studs?
as you said a idiot has been here before and did eactly what you descibe is happening...
Time-sert helicoil?
will M6 hold for heavily tune engine?
usually a M8 standard nut in a 10.8 stud can hold up to 50N tight force , if that can be done in a m6 , why not....
since i had those in mine 612 , never had a leaking problema anymore.
regards
FD,
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well , u can use whatever u feel its confortable for u, thread inserts will bring u to the same stage in a few month. forguet that.
usually a M8 standard nut in a 10.8 stud can hold up to 50N tight force , if that can be done in a m6 , why not....
since i had those in mine 612 , never had a leaking problema anymore.
regards
FD,
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Original bolts have no problem holding injector in place. It does not strip by itself, you can bet your money that some ham-fisted idiot thinkered with it before and stripped threads.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
One injector is fasten with M10 and is not drilled in CC line so it is leaking oil, some idea how to fix the leak? You where right Barrote it does leak with M10.
helicoil/time -set M8? thread Sealants? no risk for going in the oil channel and mess up the engine?
The hole that original M6*1 bolt goes down in, what dimension and is the dimension same all the way down to where the original thread M6*1 starts, guess I need some guidance for the drill
are there some puller available that can be used without taking of the top of the injector?
well take of top and stupid spring almost slip down in one cylinder !%"&%"%/(/% that, but I did not have anything else and it sure was stuck, how bad do I need to calibrate this injector again?
since the generator belt was totally striped to pieces because one roller for generator belt got stuck belt melt it down by friction ( bearing was not stuck!?) witch meant I needed to sleep in the car over night it was high time to fix injectors as well
One injector is fasten with M10 and is not drilled in CC line so it is leaking oil, some idea how to fix the leak? You where right Barrote it does leak with M10.
helicoil/time -set M8? thread Sealants? no risk for going in the oil channel and mess up the engine?
The hole that original M6*1 bolt goes down in, what dimension and is the dimension same all the way down to where the original thread M6*1 starts, guess I need some guidance for the drill
are there some puller available that can be used without taking of the top of the injector?
well take of top and stupid spring almost slip down in one cylinder !%"&%"%/(/% that, but I did not have anything else and it sure was stuck, how bad do I need to calibrate this injector again?
the bore is some 40 to 60mm , anyway if u use a stud and glue it with locktite 270 , it should prevent oil leaking. cause u can´t hit oil galleries... it is the blowby. there is no galleries in the head assy , the oil is distributed by the tappets holder web .
U dont need to use a helicoil , use stud instead, 10.8 steel studs , and can still use the m6 at the end if u feel like.
remembre, the injector seal, besides being replaced , u have to cut the face in the well , a special tool for that is used. then u must check the injector tip holder colar , sometimes they need a new one , otherwise they wont seal.
once is sealed its for life.
to remove the injector, well if its too stuck , have the engine running heat and cool , hammer it will come out eventually, dont break anything....
FD,
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remove the coil , and hammer it out like a pre cup...
the bore is some 40 to 60mm , anyway if u use a stud and glue it with locktite 270 , it should prevent oil leaking. cause u can´t hit oil galleries... it is the blowby. there is no galleries in the head assy , the oil is distributed by the tappets holder web .
U dont need to use a helicoil , use stud instead, 10.8 steel studs , and can still use the m6 at the end if u feel like.
remembre, the injector seal, besides being replaced , u have to cut the face in the well , a special tool for that is used. then u must check the injector tip holder colar , sometimes they need a new one , otherwise they wont seal.
once is sealed its for life.
to remove the injector, well if its too stuck , have the engine running heat and cool , hammer it will come out eventually, dont break anything....
FD,
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the head assy alloy is bad , is very soft its very common to happen that.
FD,
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its strange i have , 613 and 612 scrap heads at home , the thread depth difers , but i´m not home can´t help u , i remenber measuring when u first came about and it was 40 to 60mm . but that is basic mechanics, u just need the right studs. if u can buy it go in a machine shop they do that for u from a standard 10.8 m8 theaded rod. or a old M10/1 thread bolt , glue it u done .
the head assy alloy is bad , is very soft its very common to happen that.
FD,
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Just to add, there is water jacket under those M6 threads so if somehov you managed to drill trough it will leak coolant. For resurfacing there are special tools available but it can be done with 800-1000 grit sand paper glued on the flat face of 17mm round stock.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
8mm long drill bit
10,5mm drill bit
M10 tap and extension
Outside M10-inside M6 x30mm insert
Compressed air for cleaning
New OE M6 stretch bolt+copper washer
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Well I dont know diameter but you dont need anything more than:
8mm long drill bit
10,5mm drill bit
M10 tap and extension
Outside M10-inside M6 x30mm insert
Compressed air for cleaning
New OE M6 stretch bolt+copper washer
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
a nother questions I am going to change gear box in my other mercedes 320 cdi 210, well I have change engine a lot of times but never only just gearbox, how do you get the cardan shaft separated, with out loosen the middle bearing, heat shield and exhaust? possible?
ok thanks
a nother questions I am going to change gear box in my other mercedes 320 cdi 210, well I have change engine a lot of times but never only just gearbox, how do you get the cardan shaft separated, with out loosen the middle bearing, heat shield and exhaust? possible?
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