Anyone seen an OM605 exhaust manifold 3 bolt flange in mild steel
Anyone seen an OM605 exhaust manifold 3 bolt flange in mild steel
Got my 12mm mild steel T25/28 flange, will get a steam pipe bend but can't find a triangular 3 bolt flange anywhere.
1.5"/ 39mm hole and 74mm between the bolt holes centre to centre. Is there anyone making these before I get the local engineering firm to make one?
Many thanks
charlysays
04-07-2016, 01:36 PM #1I'm making an adaptor for the stock manifold.. I've been searching the internet high a low...
Got my 12mm mild steel T25/28 flange, will get a steam pipe bend but can't find a triangular 3 bolt flange anywhere.
1.5"/ 39mm hole and 74mm between the bolt holes centre to centre. Is there anyone making these before I get the local engineering firm to make one?
Many thanks
![[Image: 000-0000-002.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/000-0000-002.jpg.html)
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
A guy on the Facebook group is advertising them for about £15, and here's the drawing I made which you can email to flame or water cutter people and get them to burn you one for a tenner..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
I've actually just given the manifold to a local engineer who will make one for £20 in 12mm steel using the manifold as template... giving a local business some dosh atleast as I usually buy on the internet.
He reckons it's going to work best if I match my steam pipe I.D to the port size of the maniold... about 39-40mm. Then make the hole in the flange big enough so that the steam pipe slots in, making the mockup easier etc. Good plan or not in your opinion?
All depends on what wall thickness pipe is adequate for the job eh, if it's too thick it'll reduce the gasket surface too much. Could fill it out with weld but that'd be more expense getting it machined flat again.
Looks like a little bit of porting will be needed to go from the 1.5" round steam pipe into the rectangular T2 fitting but not much.
(04-08-2016, 06:47 AM)Hario A guy on the Facebook group is advertising them for about £15, and here's the drawing I made which you can email to flame or water cutter people and get them to burn you one for a tenner..
charlysays
04-08-2016, 01:44 PM #3Thanks mate
I've actually just given the manifold to a local engineer who will make one for £20 in 12mm steel using the manifold as template... giving a local business some dosh atleast as I usually buy on the internet.
He reckons it's going to work best if I match my steam pipe I.D to the port size of the maniold... about 39-40mm. Then make the hole in the flange big enough so that the steam pipe slots in, making the mockup easier etc. Good plan or not in your opinion?
All depends on what wall thickness pipe is adequate for the job eh, if it's too thick it'll reduce the gasket surface too much. Could fill it out with weld but that'd be more expense getting it machined flat again.
Looks like a little bit of porting will be needed to go from the 1.5" round steam pipe into the rectangular T2 fitting but not much.
(04-08-2016, 06:47 AM)Hario A guy on the Facebook group is advertising them for about £15, and here's the drawing I made which you can email to flame or water cutter people and get them to burn you one for a tenner..
![[Image: 3.jpg]](http://jan-wulf.de/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/3.jpg)
![[Image: 5.jpg]](http://jan-wulf.de/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/5.jpg)
![[Image: 13.jpg]](http://jan-wulf.de/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/13.jpg)
DiseaselWeasel
04-09-2016, 02:57 AM #4This looks like something you could machine on a drill press... Hole saw, some drills, gasket as template and then angle grinder for the outside. Be your own machine shop. Done this a lot to adapt p.e. SU carbs on a Weber manifold...
(04-08-2016, 01:44 PM)charlysays Thanks mate
I've actually just given the manifold to a local engineer who will make one for £20 in 12mm steel using the manifold as template... giving a local business some dosh atleast as I usually buy on the internet.
He reckons it's going to work best if I match my steam pipe I.D to the port size of the maniold... about 39-40mm. Then make the hole in the flange big enough so that the steam pipe slots in, making the mockup easier etc. Good plan or not in your opinion?
All depends on what wall thickness pipe is adequate for the job eh, if it's too thick it'll reduce the gasket surface too much. Could fill it out with weld but that'd be more expense getting it machined flat again.
Looks like a little bit of porting will be needed to go from the 1.5" round steam pipe into the rectangular T2 fitting but not much.
(04-08-2016, 06:47 AM)Hario A guy on the Facebook group is advertising them for about £15, and here's the drawing I made which you can email to flame or water cutter people and get them to burn you one for a tenner..
My design relied on using a die grinder to open out the port in the casting to 2", and then using 2" ID steam pipe, as 1.5" really is too small.
The problem with that is the flange welds are very close to the bolt heads, I had to use cap head bolts for clearance.
Also the 2" steam pipe can then easily have the turbo end 'squared' in a vice and it lines up well with the hoses in the T3 flange.
Yep easy with a pillar drill
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(04-08-2016, 01:44 PM)charlysays Thanks mate
I've actually just given the manifold to a local engineer who will make one for £20 in 12mm steel using the manifold as template... giving a local business some dosh atleast as I usually buy on the internet.
He reckons it's going to work best if I match my steam pipe I.D to the port size of the maniold... about 39-40mm. Then make the hole in the flange big enough so that the steam pipe slots in, making the mockup easier etc. Good plan or not in your opinion?
All depends on what wall thickness pipe is adequate for the job eh, if it's too thick it'll reduce the gasket surface too much. Could fill it out with weld but that'd be more expense getting it machined flat again.
Looks like a little bit of porting will be needed to go from the 1.5" round steam pipe into the rectangular T2 fitting but not much.
(04-08-2016, 06:47 AM)Hario A guy on the Facebook group is advertising them for about £15, and here's the drawing I made which you can email to flame or water cutter people and get them to burn you one for a tenner..
My design relied on using a die grinder to open out the port in the casting to 2", and then using 2" ID steam pipe, as 1.5" really is too small.
The problem with that is the flange welds are very close to the bolt heads, I had to use cap head bolts for clearance.
Also the 2" steam pipe can then easily have the turbo end 'squared' in a vice and it lines up well with the hoses in the T3 flange.
Yep easy with a pillar drill
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
I'll probably be running around 1.3 bar of boost with this setup, to achieve around 230-240hp to stay within the usability of all the other stock hardware.
Thanks for the tips everyone
I went with getting the machine shop to do it as I still can't use my thumb (following a bad sprain in a surfing accident)... I should be up to doing a mock up with the turbo and tacking the adaptor though. Anything which requires gripping with both hands is out of the question for another month atleast though 
(04-11-2016, 06:24 AM)Hario(04-08-2016, 01:44 PM)charlysays Thanks mate
I've actually just given the manifold to a local engineer who will make one for £20 in 12mm steel using the manifold as template... giving a local business some dosh atleast as I usually buy on the internet.
He reckons it's going to work best if I match my steam pipe I.D to the port size of the maniold... about 39-40mm. Then make the hole in the flange big enough so that the steam pipe slots in, making the mockup easier etc. Good plan or not in your opinion?
All depends on what wall thickness pipe is adequate for the job eh, if it's too thick it'll reduce the gasket surface too much. Could fill it out with weld but that'd be more expense getting it machined flat again.
Looks like a little bit of porting will be needed to go from the 1.5" round steam pipe into the rectangular T2 fitting but not much.
(04-08-2016, 06:47 AM)Hario A guy on the Facebook group is advertising them for about £15, and here's the drawing I made which you can email to flame or water cutter people and get them to burn you one for a tenner..
My design relied on using a die grinder to open out the port in the casting to 2", and then using 2" ID steam pipe, as 1.5" really is too small.
The problem with that is the flange welds are very close to the bolt heads, I had to use cap head bolts for clearance.
Also the 2" steam pipe can then easily have the turbo end 'squared' in a vice and it lines up well with the hoses in the T3 flange.
Yep easy with a pillar drill
charlysays
04-18-2016, 06:05 AM #6I see... the 1.5" pipe seems a very good match for my turbos exhaust housing however. It's a GT28... whilst it's housing uses a rectangular port the corners are very rounded and it's barely any larger than 1.5". The 12mm T2 flange I've got will need a few mm of porting to give some transition at the corners. Using 2" pipe would cause a significant restriction upon the gas entering the exhaust housing with this turbo.
I'll probably be running around 1.3 bar of boost with this setup, to achieve around 230-240hp to stay within the usability of all the other stock hardware.
Thanks for the tips everyone I went with getting the machine shop to do it as I still can't use my thumb (following a bad sprain in a surfing accident)... I should be up to doing a mock up with the turbo and tacking the adaptor though. Anything which requires gripping with both hands is out of the question for another month atleast though
(04-11-2016, 06:24 AM)Hario(04-08-2016, 01:44 PM)charlysays Thanks mate
I've actually just given the manifold to a local engineer who will make one for £20 in 12mm steel using the manifold as template... giving a local business some dosh atleast as I usually buy on the internet.
He reckons it's going to work best if I match my steam pipe I.D to the port size of the maniold... about 39-40mm. Then make the hole in the flange big enough so that the steam pipe slots in, making the mockup easier etc. Good plan or not in your opinion?
All depends on what wall thickness pipe is adequate for the job eh, if it's too thick it'll reduce the gasket surface too much. Could fill it out with weld but that'd be more expense getting it machined flat again.
Looks like a little bit of porting will be needed to go from the 1.5" round steam pipe into the rectangular T2 fitting but not much.
(04-08-2016, 06:47 AM)Hario A guy on the Facebook group is advertising them for about £15, and here's the drawing I made which you can email to flame or water cutter people and get them to burn you one for a tenner..
My design relied on using a die grinder to open out the port in the casting to 2", and then using 2" ID steam pipe, as 1.5" really is too small.
The problem with that is the flange welds are very close to the bolt heads, I had to use cap head bolts for clearance.
Also the 2" steam pipe can then easily have the turbo end 'squared' in a vice and it lines up well with the hoses in the T3 flange.
Yep easy with a pillar drill
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