Some of you have seen it, some dont...
So here is the project:

Unknown flatbottom skiboat (if someone knows what kind of brand i have here, please let me know! )
It is 5 meters or 18 feet, stock it had a halibrand v-drive and a small block chevy engine in...
Dont like petrol or v8`s so what is the best engine there is?

First thing first, start to paint you engine:




The Halibrand b-120 gearbox:


Custom driveshaft:

Motormounts:


BMW m20 Manifold:





First test was as Om606 NA, and it did 6 knots! Haha, could nod get out of the water at all!
Had my 300cc superstroker laying around, so installed that and a Garrett GT4082v.
Finally it was moving
Did about 50 knots on first testrun...

But that was with only 5 of 6 cylinders




Cyl 4 had a clogged injector...

Changed injector and now it was running better

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXttrhWH7Nk
Turn DOWN the volume, sound quality is very poor!

After some more testruns i went on my own to see what max speed i could get...
But that didn`t end well, at full speed and full trottle the gearbox jumped into neutral!

So that was the end of that poor NA 606 engine!





It smashed some valves and two pistons...

So the engine was rebuilt with all the parts from the 190D engine, 606 turbopistons-H-profile rods and head with stiffer springs.
Turbo was changed to a Holset HE300w
And i bought a Casale 12 degree gearbox with 15% overdriven gears from New York.

And i found out that now with higher gears i need a gearbox between the engine and V-drive.
So my old welded BMW 530D gearbox came in handy!
















So here is the newest pictures of the turbo and intercooler:






On the final drive we did 115km/h or 62 knots on 1.5 bars. Only with 5000rpm!
So new turbo, Hoslet HE351 with 12cm houisng will be installed...Then we will se if we can pull it to above 6000rpm

Here are some videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pzazyo5aBs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epFPiO4WLdY

Stay tuned for more fun

Nice!

Amazing project!

missing only a gas bottle to start pull em 5th gear

(01-08-2016, 06:52 AM)StrikerofDeath Wrote: Amazing project!

missing only a gas bottle to start pull em 5th gear

I am thinking more and more on a sequential turbo setup, maybe even with a supercharger....As long as it get out of the water easily, the turbo lag is no problem

(10-14-2015, 04:21 PM)EDH_Performance Wrote: After some more testruns i went on my own to see what max speed i could get...
But that didn`t end well, at full speed and full trottle the gearbox jumped into neutral!

So that was the end of that poor NA 606 engine!





It smashed some valves and two pistons...

So the engine was rebuilt with all the parts from the 190D engine, 606 turbopistons-H-profile rods and head with stiffer springs.
Turbo was changed to a Holset HE300w
And i bought a Casale 12 degree gearbox with 15% overdriven gears from New York.

And i found out that now with higher gears i need a gearbox between the engine and V-drive.
So my old welded BMW 530D gearbox came in handy!
















So here is the newest pictures of the turbo and intercooler:






On the final drive we did 115km/h or 62 knots on 1.5 bars. Only with 5000rpm!
So new turbo, Hoslet HE351 with 12cm houisng will be installed...Then we will se if we can pull it to above 6000rpm

Here are some videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pzazyo5aBs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epFPiO4WLdY

Stay tuned for more fun

Why an engine failure ?

offroaddieselhu

Because the stock n/a engine didn`t like somewhat 8000rpm+ when the gearbox whent into neutral under full load

About time for a new update regarding setup for 2016!

The engine has been started with the new setup and looks very promising

Turbo setup:







Made neew bushings for propeller strut:

(05-23-2016, 07:24 AM)EDH_Performance Wrote: About time for a new update regarding setup for 2016!

The engine has been started with the new setup and looks very promising

It will be sequential setup this year, one small turbo to get out of the water and one big Holset HX60 to get the horsepower i want!

Turbo setup:







Made new bushings for propeller strut:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPOcDkBO...e=youtu.be

Mother of god!

No manifold clearance issues here lol :-D is the small turbo bypassing the big one with a big one way valve on the back (or front, depends how you look at it) of the cylinder head?

(05-23-2016, 03:54 PM)Tito Wrote: No manifold clearance issues here lol :-D is the small turbo bypassing the big one with a big one way valve on the back (or front, depends how you look at it) of the cylinder head?

No issues regarding space 
The big one bypasses the small one with the brass one way valve on the back of the engine, like most of sequential setups are.
On the exhaust side there is 2x50mm wg`s that bypasses the small one.

I could not find an intercooler?

(05-25-2016, 12:30 AM)Turbo Wrote: I could not find an intercooler?

No, new understandig...Intercooler is no good and the world will be a greener place without

No this is just a test pipe, there will be a big water/air ic later

(05-24-2016, 05:11 AM)EDH_Performance Wrote:

(05-23-2016, 03:54 PM)Tito Wrote: No manifold clearance issues here lol :-D is the small turbo bypassing the big one with a big one way valve on the back (or front, depends how you look at it) of the cylinder head?

No issues regarding space 
The big one bypasses the small one with the brass one way valve on the back of the engine, like most of sequential setups are.
On the exhaust side there is 2x50mm wg`s that bypasses the small one.

Where on earth did you find that huge brass bypass valve? I bought the littler one from an audi 3.0 BiTDI

(05-26-2016, 05:45 AM)atypicalguy Wrote:

(05-24-2016, 05:11 AM)EDH_Performance Wrote:

(05-23-2016, 03:54 PM)Tito Wrote: No manifold clearance issues here lol :-D is the small turbo bypassing the big one with a big one way valve on the back (or front, depends how you look at it) of the cylinder head?

No issues regarding space 
The big one bypasses the small one with the brass one way valve on the back of the engine, like most of sequential setups are.
On the exhaust side there is 2x50mm wg`s that bypasses the small one.

Where on earth did you find that huge brass bypass valve? I bought the littler one from an audi 3.0 BiTDI

It is actually a water check valve but have been machined for airflow It is 4" outer an 3" + inside
http://www.easy-irrigation.co.uk/images/...-valve.jpg

The boat will proberly be named "the submarine" after this year first testrun??
The engine was MUCH more powerful than 2015 season, but the test only lasted few minutes because of major propshaft failure! The boat ended up at 10m depth^^ it is back on land and it is now running again Video and pictures will come....Got the whole "crash" on tape^^

Wow. Yes I imagine that ripped a large hole in the hull and sank it quickly. Hope no one was hurt. Look forward to seeing the video!

Haha, not that extreme...Only damage so far is only propeller and a small dent in the rudder

Haha, not that extreme...Only damage so far is only propeller and a small dent in the rudder

Brutal. Hence those U-shaped bolts covering the prop to stop it flailing around?

(05-31-2016, 06:32 AM)Hario Wrote: Brutal. Hence those U-shaped bolts covering the prop to stop it flailing around?

Yes, but i will upgrade it to a solid splitted pipe covering the whole shaft and joints
The failure was because the prop shaft came loose from the splitted joint on the v-drive...Need to put on a stop ring on the shaft to stop it from going into the rudder

(05-29-2016, 01:45 PM)EDH_Performance Wrote: The boat will proberly be named "the submarine" after this year first testrun??
The engine was MUCH more powerful than 2015 season, but the test only lasted few minutes because of major propshaft failure! The boat ended up at 10m depth^^ it is back on land and it is now running again Video and pictures will come....Got the whole "crash" on tape^^

Waiting for the video

First test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWfbQPb50Pc
Spinout : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MCvvXZe0Tw

That big Holset HX60 is spooling quickly

Om606 skiboat submarine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjTgP0IAxP0

Om606 startup after underwater trip
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjTgP0IAxP0

(06-02-2016, 06:09 AM)street_666 Wrote: Om606 skiboat submarine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjTgP0IAxP0

Om606 startup after underwater trip
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjTgP0IAxP0

That startup viedo....If it haven`t been for that bad starter it would have not used many seconds to start

same video?

Maybe strap some airbags in next to the gunwales in back and under the bow, so it doesn't completely sink again ever.

http://www.apsltd.com/airbag-red-high-fl...oCMlXw_wcB

(06-02-2016, 06:53 AM)Turbo Wrote: same video?

here is the startup video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6ow1tXR-7E

I love the way the turbo is just spitting out water, lol. Looks like you killed the engine in time. I'm quite impressed the engine was so easy to fix again even after a night underwater. I would let it idle for an hour or so to make sure all the water has evaporated.

(06-02-2016, 03:21 PM)Tito Wrote: I love the way the turbo is just spitting out water, lol. Looks like you killed the engine in time. I'm quite impressed the engine was so easy to fix again even after a night underwater. I would let it idle for an hour or so to make sure all the water has evaporated.

Hehe, alot of water and oil came out of the exhaust It was running for about 45 minutes before i shut it off, i dont think any petrol engine would have done the same

(10-14-2015, 03:53 PM)EDH_Performance Wrote: Some of you have seen it, some dont...
So here is the project:

Unknown flatbottom skiboat (if someone knows what kind of brand i have here, please let me know! )
It is 5 meters or 18 feet, stock it had a halibrand v-drive and a small block chevy engine in...
Dont like petrol or v8`s so what is the best engine there is?

First thing first, start to paint you engine:




The Halibrand b-120 gearbox:


Custom driveshaft:

It looks like a Hondo hull built in the USA in the 80's.

(06-04-2016, 12:06 PM)zeeman Wrote: It looks like a Hondo hull built in the USA in the 80's.

Have heard there was over 40 manufacturer and they made over 100 types of hulls :S
But from pictures it shure looks like a hondo type!

New homecut prop, 2nd test! only 4th gear but looks promising
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iogSfjgf...e=youtu.be

Cool, do you need to fit trim tabs or adjust weight distribution to stop the hopping action? Looks painful on the ass!

That's crazy thing. 300cc and HX60 sounds like 700+hp? What have you done with engine internals, all stock or something special?

(06-20-2016, 07:46 AM)Hario Wrote: Cool, do you need to fit trim tabs or adjust weight distribution to stop the hopping action? Looks painful on the ass!

Hope it settles when i go into 5th gear and more speed

(06-20-2016, 08:21 AM)erx Wrote: That's crazy thing. 300cc and HX60 sounds like 700+hp? What have you done with engine internals, all stock or something special?

Pump is on minimum fuel setting, so i dont know the horsepower We need to see how much power i need when i can get it out of the water on 5th gear! 

old prop was 12"x16", new one is 13.5"x22"

(06-20-2016, 08:31 AM)EDH_Performance Wrote:

(06-20-2016, 07:46 AM)Hario Wrote: Cool, do you need to fit trim tabs or adjust weight distribution to stop the hopping action? Looks painful on the ass!

Hope it settles when i go into 5th gear and more speed

 
If you keep driving it like that more speed will be even worse!! You are fast approaching a flip or loss of all control roll over situation 

These hulls are not like any normal boat that will plane out on its own. They are designed to be "driven" by the pilot who has to constantly trim out the boat according to power and flight conditions. I say flight because the hull is designed to lift out of the water which is why it is porpusing so badly, and it will only get worse. The pilot needs to plant the nose back down by pushing down on the trim peddle, which pushes the long aluminum plate at the back down which lifts the back of the boat up. What this is actually doing is balancing the entire boat on the prop. 

The prop is trying to push the boat out of the water, and the pilot has to counter that with the trim plate, which will level the boat out and let it come out of the water and fly. When you are popping out of the hole, as soon as the nose starts to come up, you need to set it back down. With the right power and prop angle, these boats will jump out of the water on launch. It can be scary the first couple of times lol...

Once the pilot has the boat trimed out at speed, they have to be mindful of the shutdown which is were 90% of the crashes happen. When you are under power, you are forcing the nose down, and when you get out of it, you loose the prop thrust that is trying to lift the front and the prop becomes an anchor and actually will try to lift the back end and cause it to slide. To counter the loss of nose lift at the cut, you need to let up on the trim peddle so the nose doesn't plant which can get ugly fast.   

Get on line and watch some flat bottom drag boat races and watch how they control the pitch of the boat as they go down the track. They will launch out of the water, but then get the nose down and peddle it all the way down. When everything goes right, it is a lot of fun, I have lost several friends from it going bad.

Be careful..

(06-20-2016, 12:13 PM)OM616 Wrote: If you keep driving it like that more speed will be even worse!! You are fast approaching a flip or loss of all control roll over situation 

These hulls are not like any normal boat that will plane out on its own. They are designed to be "driven" by the pilot who has to constantly trim out the boat according to power and flight conditions. I say flight because the hull is designed to lift out of the water which is why it is porpusing so badly, and it will only get worse. The pilot needs to plant the nose back down by pushing down on the trim peddle, which pushes the long aluminum plate at the back down which lifts the back of the boat up. What this is actually doing is balancing the entire boat on the prop. 

The prop is trying to push the boat out of the water, and the pilot has to counter that with the trim plate, which will level the boat out and let it come out of the water and fly. When you are popping out of the hole, as soon as the nose starts to come up, you need to set it back down. With the right power and prop angle, these boats will jump out of the water on launch. It can be scary the first couple of times lol...

Once the pilot has the boat trimed out at speed, they have to be mindful of the shutdown which is were 90% of the crashes happen. When you are under power, you are forcing the nose down, and when you get out of it, you loose the prop thrust that is trying to lift the front and the prop becomes an anchor and actually will try to lift the back end and cause it to slide. To counter the loss of nose lift at the cut, you need to let up on the trim peddle so the nose doesn't plant which can get ugly fast.   

Get on line and watch some flat bottom drag boat races and watch how they control the pitch of the boat as they go down the track. They will launch out of the water, but then get the nose down and peddle it all the way down. When everything goes right, it is a lot of fun, I have lost several friends from it going bad.

Be careful..

Thanks for the explanation! Have seen many youtube clips and they are all flying nicely along the water Tried to trim, and i can get it to sit flat on the water, so i will test some next time When i go full trottle, high speed and then back off to idle suddenly i can feel what you describe regarding the "anchor"... Scary

Here are some photos of the propeller that hit the rudder:


The old ( 12"x16") prop vs the new (16.5"x23") prop






As you can see the new prop is much bigger and have a totally different shape...And it is BIG!
I only paid about 50usd for it and it was located 5min away from my house
BUT it needed some work to fit my boat and propshaft!

First propblem is the center of the shaft, it is cylindrical with spline to transfer the power and have a conical trust area in the rear.
My haft is 1" with 1:10 taperend end with key to transfer power and trust:


Found and old useless prop with correct 1:10 tapered center with correct key:



Final outcome:


Now this was pressed in the prop with about 10ton of pressure:


Ligned it up in the lathe and machined it flat in the rear:




The center of the new prop is larger and deeper than the old one so the threads is now inside the prop bore:



So i made a deep 


Then i cutted it down to 13.5"x22":




Test fit: 


Then i shaped it to final dimension so all 3 blades was equal shaped. Then i balanced it.

This new prop has alot more bite than the old one. The old was slipping much more than this one.
Can not get it out of the water on 5th gear, so need to start on 4th and then shift to 5th but this is not a problem.
When i get it out of the water i have enough power to go faster than last year
Stay tuned for more fun on the water!!

(06-21-2016, 03:59 AM)EDH_Performance Wrote: Test fit: 


Then i shaped it to final dimension so all 3 blades was equal shaped. Then i balanced it.

This new prop has alot more bite than the old one. The old was slipping much more than this one.
Can not get it out of the water on 5th gear, so need to start on 4th and then shift to 5th but this is not a problem.
When i get it out of the water i have enough power to go faster than last year
Stay tuned for more fun on the water!!

Keep in mind that that type of prop is meant to ventilate (come out of the water), ideally with only one blade in the water at a time. It will really be a power absorber if it can't get out of the water and the engine will be working its ass of while the boat is slow .   I have the same type of prop on mine as it limits my speed on the little lake I am on. This summer I might put the correct one back on and have a little fun lol..

(06-21-2016, 02:37 PM)OM616 Wrote:

(06-21-2016, 03:59 AM)EDH_Performance Wrote: Test fit: 


Then i shaped it to final dimension so all 3 blades was equal shaped. Then i balanced it.

This new prop has alot more bite than the old one. The old was slipping much more than this one.
Can not get it out of the water on 5th gear, so need to start on 4th and then shift to 5th but this is not a problem.
When i get it out of the water i have enough power to go faster than last year
Stay tuned for more fun on the water!!

Keep in mind that that type of prop is meant to ventilate (come out of the water), ideally with only one blade in the water at a time. It will really be a power absorber if it can't get out of the water and the engine will be working its ass of while the boat is slow .   I have the same type of prop on mine as it limits my speed on the little lake I am on. This summer I might put the correct one back on and have a little fun lol..

It looks like a surface porpeller yes For 50bucks i just had to try, but this works better than the one that was on there from the start. I will try it out this summer and then maybe i will get a 4 blade one, around 13"x18" would be perfect for me

How does the transmission work on the boat? Does it help acceleration?

(06-22-2016, 06:17 AM)TurboTim Wrote: How does the transmission work on the boat? Does it help acceleration?

It goes 10knots+ on idle in 4th gear, so i need to go into 2nd or 3rd when i am cruising in the river around my town...5knot speed limit

Does it shift when you use it?

(06-22-2016, 07:23 AM)TurboTim Wrote: Does it shift when you use it?

yes, but a bit scary because that short shiftingrod is located right above the driveshaft! Need to make a proper shifting mechanisme, then it will be good