Prechambers wont stop leaking
Prechambers wont stop leaking
10-02-2015, 09:42 PM
#1
Two of the three leakers had some movement before being torqued. but instead of being fixed, one is just worse now and bubbles pretty good. So doesn't imply i need to take apart the prechambers, clean them, and replace the sealing ring?
So i've been trying to track down this perpetual "tick" noise for some time now. I've found it be somewhat like an exhaust leak but fast and rpm dependent. I did the soapy water test and sure even a few prechambers were bubbling. I ordered the tool from mercedes source and spent a few hours to retorque the lock nut and replace the injector heat shields.
Two of the three leakers had some movement before being torqued. but instead of being fixed, one is just worse now and bubbles pretty good. So doesn't imply i need to take apart the prechambers, clean them, and replace the sealing ring?
10-03-2015, 07:26 AM
#2
first u have to remove the precup , clean the seat and install them again. tq should be something around 100n to 130n.
the shields dont need to be replaced although care should be used when installing them. right side and clean. tq for injector is 50n.
The precups dont have seals. to remove them u seed and impact extractor , special tool.
regards and good luck withit.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
hehe, that is not so easy....
first u have to remove the precup , clean the seat and install them again. tq should be something around 100n to 130n.
the shields dont need to be replaced although care should be used when installing them. right side and clean. tq for injector is 50n.
The precups dont have seals. to remove them u seed and impact extractor , special tool.
regards and good luck withit.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
10-07-2015, 04:28 AM
#3
(10-02-2015, 09:42 PM)Whizbang So i've been trying to track down this perpetual "tick" noise for some time now. I've found it be somewhat like an exhaust leak but fast and rpm dependent. I did the soapy water test and sure even a few prechambers were bubbling. I ordered the tool from mercedes source and spent a few hours to retorque the lock nut and replace the injector heat shields.
Two of the three leakers had some movement before being torqued. but instead of being fixed, one is just worse now and bubbles pretty good. So doesn't imply i need to take apart the prechambers, clean them, and replace the sealing ring?
You didn't say which car...
Tick.. tick... tick sound can can be a lot of things. I would start with the easy stuff, such a diesel purge. Make sure the valves are adjusted...
On my '84 300D, I had some bubbling and I wanted to open up the precup holes anyway. I used a special wrench and puller to remove the precups (don't forget the glowplugs!) and found puffy carbon buildup on a few of the seal rings under the lip of the precup.
![[Image: uT-PsjnT3FkB57V0HC4gOIW-OYfoCVlxn9X8JxT_...55-h512-no]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uT-PsjnT3FkB57V0HC4gOIW-OYfoCVlxn9X8JxT_4GVbKWMo9Cd53gZkocdzR5Z4ZCz_gzf61d4wMN_b0lEX6f7LtPIu6nRDrJocPEgUYyk1KDJCXlYCH7EzvIcAkSrw5qiJWU02ANlx88vl4uH4TvC8Tu_LKU_GVD2zCUhQSc6uVwOlO_-FfBfZ2aO9W8M8KJpG0iDgdg5MK4ayWnqGbPmuapG64gsOKBtH8RUSkigTpf5vQ7wiUAU1gUU7G2gwi9Lr0xNR7sDImGecQTS3MfqID2jiOlLJHvLlUb_ql5lOtcCsIJbdsZSRCQz6JdPd38dMTP7YCc0mPxUEH7QC875ewpf_674ifiO5V3YDqSWQ0HlNp0Zm67kWZmvyu-MyLAqQP5KNFQA0qdZjDGiPJMYx-2tR7NMoLipGlrNDoK067Yus12tlXJfeas4rRfJX8OrleOlWKbEzykcVmmnf7I3NqhI80SaKK26G4NXk00Q2OtOHgrlxWhMcPK2fx8BuJW_LpOIVXjqNzYuLtYStjmgPBT4qomdper-C2XDgtLA=w855-h512-no)
So I cleaned them up, put it all back together, and re-torqued to factory specs and the problem went away. You cannot get the proper torque on these without the proper tool... in fact you will probably damage the ring/nut and have a leak as well.
This post was last modified: 10-07-2015, 05:05 AM by kestreltom.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
kestreltom
10-07-2015, 04:28 AM #3(10-02-2015, 09:42 PM)Whizbang So i've been trying to track down this perpetual "tick" noise for some time now. I've found it be somewhat like an exhaust leak but fast and rpm dependent. I did the soapy water test and sure even a few prechambers were bubbling. I ordered the tool from mercedes source and spent a few hours to retorque the lock nut and replace the injector heat shields.
Two of the three leakers had some movement before being torqued. but instead of being fixed, one is just worse now and bubbles pretty good. So doesn't imply i need to take apart the prechambers, clean them, and replace the sealing ring?
You didn't say which car...
Tick.. tick... tick sound can can be a lot of things. I would start with the easy stuff, such a diesel purge. Make sure the valves are adjusted...
On my '84 300D, I had some bubbling and I wanted to open up the precup holes anyway. I used a special wrench and puller to remove the precups (don't forget the glowplugs!) and found puffy carbon buildup on a few of the seal rings under the lip of the precup.
So I cleaned them up, put it all back together, and re-torqued to factory specs and the problem went away. You cannot get the proper torque on these without the proper tool... in fact you will probably damage the ring/nut and have a leak as well.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
10-08-2015, 04:29 AM
#5
ps. Don't forget to remove the glowplugs first and ream the holes.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
kestreltom
10-08-2015, 04:29 AM #5Good luck then!
ps. Don't forget to remove the glowplugs first and ream the holes.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
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