om606.962 swap into 1997 F150 4x4
om606.962 swap into 1997 F150 4x4
I'm close to extensive road testing now and will report progress on here. All in all a fun project but my next one will be a V6 for obvious length reasons and lack of power and roughness of 4 and 5 cylinder diesels The 606 is a really smooth engine. Older trucks and wagons with square noses would definitely accommodate it better but nothing is impossible in the STD world.
50harleyrider
03-30-2017, 11:05 AM #51Not yet, I've been working out all the bugs for the DSL1 ecu (mostly my own doing -Baldur is great), getting all the aftermarket gauges working, details. I had to go all electric cooling fan. I was able to use the oe w210 electric fan and of course eliminate the belt fan on the 606. Will see how that works. I'm using the USshift quick 4 TCU and haven't started debugging it yet either. The length of the 606 was also a problem for me but a mod to the F150 idler arm and an om648 rear sump pan fixed that without need for a body lift. The Cummins 12 valve motor mounts worked nicely thanks to zeeman.
I'm close to extensive road testing now and will report progress on here. All in all a fun project but my next one will be a V6 for obvious length reasons and lack of power and roughness of 4 and 5 cylinder diesels The 606 is a really smooth engine. Older trucks and wagons with square noses would definitely accommodate it better but nothing is impossible in the STD world.
(03-16-2017, 05:38 PM)50harleyrider The truck is nearing its first road test. Everything appears to be on que. Baldurs' DSL1 appears to be pretty awesome and simple after you get all the wiring put together. Hopefully it will have enough low end torque to move the truck around with a little thrill but the HX35 is on the shelf and ready if not. I just don't want to lose the grunt so the oe kkk for a little while. I'll try to get a Utube video up as soon as I can test the US Shift Quick 4 TCU. It sure doesn't sound like an F150 anymore. Will be lots of fun showing off and hopefully bye bye to 12 MPG.
One issue I haven't figured out is vacuum. I am using the large oe Mercedes vacuum line from the pump to the brake booster as it is about the same size and length as the F150 line. It has a tee in it from which I am using the small oe hard plastic line to the turbo and the F150 HVAC controls inside the cab. I elected to bypass the F150 vacuum canister since unlike a gasser, there is now a constant source of vacuum from the diesel pump. The HVAC flaps inside the cab are not working. My question is should I retain the large vacuum cannisters used in the oe Ford to get it to work? Maybe the Mercedes pump just doesn't supply enough instant vacuum through the small hard plastic line to operate the doors and it needs a reservoir canister also?
I think I would leave everything intact as it was and just run the original engine vacuum hose from the engine to the Merc vacuum pump. The Jeep JK I did was like this and everything worked fine. Have you traced the vacuum to inside the truck to see if it is pulling vacuum? The HVAC shouldn't need much vacuum, anything computer controlled? Some of the Jeeps have a separate vacuum line for the HVAC.
(03-16-2017, 05:38 PM)50harleyrider The truck is nearing its first road test. Everything appears to be on que. Baldurs' DSL1 appears to be pretty awesome and simple after you get all the wiring put together. Hopefully it will have enough low end torque to move the truck around with a little thrill but the HX35 is on the shelf and ready if not. I just don't want to lose the grunt so the oe kkk for a little while. I'll try to get a Utube video up as soon as I can test the US Shift Quick 4 TCU. It sure doesn't sound like an F150 anymore. Will be lots of fun showing off and hopefully bye bye to 12 MPG.
One issue I haven't figured out is vacuum. I am using the large oe Mercedes vacuum line from the pump to the brake booster as it is about the same size and length as the F150 line. It has a tee in it from which I am using the small oe hard plastic line to the turbo and the F150 HVAC controls inside the cab. I elected to bypass the F150 vacuum canister since unlike a gasser, there is now a constant source of vacuum from the diesel pump. The HVAC flaps inside the cab are not working. My question is should I retain the large vacuum cannisters used in the oe Ford to get it to work? Maybe the Mercedes pump just doesn't supply enough instant vacuum through the small hard plastic line to operate the doors and it needs a reservoir canister also?
I think I would leave everything intact as it was and just run the original engine vacuum hose from the engine to the Merc vacuum pump. The Jeep JK I did was like this and everything worked fine. Have you traced the vacuum to inside the truck to see if it is pulling vacuum? The HVAC shouldn't need much vacuum, anything computer controlled? Some of the Jeeps have a separate vacuum line for the HVAC.
50harleyrider
04-02-2017, 11:08 AM #53The donor w210 had a large black plastic vacuum line to the brake booster with a small check valve tee I was trying to use. It was very similar to the F150 one. The check valve was restricting vacuum so I spliced in another tee. Everything works great now and yes I did leave the F150 vacuum system intact.
(04-02-2017, 11:08 AM)50harleyrider The donor w210 had a large black plastic vacuum line to the brake booster with a small check valve tee I was trying to use. It was very similar to the F150 one. The check valve was restricting vacuum so I spliced in another tee. Everything works great now and yes I did leave the F150 vacuum system intact.
Any update on how the truck is doing? i'm at the point of routing vacuum lines and coolant lines on my swap (same engine and ecu into a Toyota T100).
I've been looking for a diagram to confirm, but is it safe for assume the coolant line on the intake side of the block is the heater feed and the one on the coolant pump/exhaust side is the heater return?
X Double Dot
08-27-2017, 08:39 AM #54(04-02-2017, 11:08 AM)50harleyrider The donor w210 had a large black plastic vacuum line to the brake booster with a small check valve tee I was trying to use. It was very similar to the F150 one. The check valve was restricting vacuum so I spliced in another tee. Everything works great now and yes I did leave the F150 vacuum system intact.
Any update on how the truck is doing? i'm at the point of routing vacuum lines and coolant lines on my swap (same engine and ecu into a Toyota T100).
I've been looking for a diagram to confirm, but is it safe for assume the coolant line on the intake side of the block is the heater feed and the one on the coolant pump/exhaust side is the heater return?
As for your heater hoses, I routed a small hose from the nipple under the exhaust manifold to the Ford coolant puke tank and the other two go to the heater same as the donor car. I might be wrong but the order of those two lines to the heater core don't matter. The flow control valve on your truck doesn't care which direction the flow is. Just leave enough extra hose length on them so you can swap them if they don't work right the first try.
50harleyrider
08-29-2017, 09:56 PM #55Truck is on the back burner right now and I'm getting hyper. I'm putting a 10,000 lb Bendpak lift in my garage right now so I can address the break somewhere in the AT or tc adapter. Too old to crawl around on that concrete any more. I'm going with a 6 bolt Billet Suncoast torque converter for a 97 F250 7.3 diesel. Bendtsen says he can make the adapter to the 606 flex plate. Probably a mistake trying to use the 4-bolt 5.4 gas tc (you can see it in post 25 of this thread). Won't really know anything until I pull it out.
As for your heater hoses, I routed a small hose from the nipple under the exhaust manifold to the Ford coolant puke tank and the other two go to the heater same as the donor car. I might be wrong but the order of those two lines to the heater core don't matter. The flow control valve on your truck doesn't care which direction the flow is. Just leave enough extra hose length on them so you can swap them if they don't work right the first try.
Thats awesome on the lift, hoping you can get it together so we can hear some driving reports. I think this engine was the right choice in my case, but i'm always curious how it'll do in a truck application.
X Double Dot
09-22-2017, 09:39 AM #56Thanks for the reply. My Toyota had/has no expansion tank, only an overflow for the radiator cap outlet. Referring to the heater hoses, When you say "other two go to the heater" do you mean the one on the back of the engine by the oil filter housing AND the outlet from the expansion tank where the other one was plumbed in?
Thats awesome on the lift, hoping you can get it together so we can hear some driving reports. I think this engine was the right choice in my case, but i'm always curious how it'll do in a truck application.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=7459
50harleyrider
09-29-2017, 07:39 AM #57One of the f150 heater hoses goes to a tee I added at the OM 606 nipple on the right side of the engine. The other leg of that tee goes to the F150 expansion tank. The other heater hose connects under the intake of the OM 606. Heater works fine.I believe Zeeman does this on his Jeep conversions also. His tee is located nearer the expansion tank. Strictly a personal preference thing for clean installs. See post #4 of this thread:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=7459
50harleyrider
10-28-2017, 04:44 PM #58Can anyone tell me the stall speed of the OE 722.6 torque converter my e300 TD donor car came with? The reason I ask is the OE 5.4 gasser torque converter from my 97 F150 which I am using with the OE E4OD seems to engage at very low RPM now that it's mated to the OM606.962. My truck is down right now due to an adapter failure and I want to make sure I have a suitable torque converter installed when it goes back together. At a minimum, I figure I need to get a diesel torque converter in there. Any comments would be appreciated.
(10-28-2017, 04:44 PM)50harleyrider Can anyone tell me the stall speed of the OE 722.6 torque converter my e300 TD donor car came with? The reason I ask is the OE 5.4 gasser torque converter from my 97 F150 which I am using with the OE E4OD seems to engage at very low RPM now that it's mated to the OM606.962. My truck is down right now due to an adapter failure and I want to make sure I have a suitable torque converter installed when it goes back together. At a minimum, I figure I need to get a diesel torque converter in there. Any comments would be appreciated.
Idk the stall speed of the 722.6 - someone else?
I also dk if these would work with your trans but Jeep Liberty/Cherokee 2.8L CRD (545rfe) had problems with weak tc from factory so there are several companies that make aftermarket tc for these (florida torque converters, edge racing converters, suncoast, etc).
I went with suncoast because of 600 ftlb/813 nm rating vs oe 300/406 & im now running a stage 4 tune w/o any shutter. The price has gone up since i ordered mine & @ nearly $900 its pricey. FTC advertised as low as $359.
I hope this helps in some way!
(10-28-2017, 04:44 PM)50harleyrider Can anyone tell me the stall speed of the OE 722.6 torque converter my e300 TD donor car came with? The reason I ask is the OE 5.4 gasser torque converter from my 97 F150 which I am using with the OE E4OD seems to engage at very low RPM now that it's mated to the OM606.962. My truck is down right now due to an adapter failure and I want to make sure I have a suitable torque converter installed when it goes back together. At a minimum, I figure I need to get a diesel torque converter in there. Any comments would be appreciated.
Idk the stall speed of the 722.6 - someone else?
I also dk if these would work with your trans but Jeep Liberty/Cherokee 2.8L CRD (545rfe) had problems with weak tc from factory so there are several companies that make aftermarket tc for these (florida torque converters, edge racing converters, suncoast, etc).
I went with suncoast because of 600 ftlb/813 nm rating vs oe 300/406 & im now running a stage 4 tune w/o any shutter. The price has gone up since i ordered mine & @ nearly $900 its pricey. FTC advertised as low as $359.
I hope this helps in some way!
I can't answer your question but I would think a diesel torque converter would have an even lower stall speed than the '97 5.4. Did the adapter fail or did the converter fail? I know the 2004-2008 5.4 torque converters were significantly stronger than the previous ones - per this guide:
http://forums.tccoa.com/955-4r70w-transm...rters.html
I've been following your project as I'm about to start on mine (2006 f150 4x4). My 5.4 lasted longer than I thought it would but it's time. I'll need to pick yours and zeemans brain!
Harley-
I can't answer your question but I would think a diesel torque converter would have an even lower stall speed than the '97 5.4. Did the adapter fail or did the converter fail? I know the 2004-2008 5.4 torque converters were significantly stronger than the previous ones - per this guide:
http://forums.tccoa.com/955-4r70w-transm...rters.html
I've been following your project as I'm about to start on mine (2006 f150 4x4). My 5.4 lasted longer than I thought it would but it's time. I'll need to pick yours and zeemans brain!
THe dzl converter will have a multi plate clutch which is nice, but maybe not necessary. THe stall speed will be lower than the 5.4. I think some econoline 250's had 4r100's behind the 4.2 V6. That would be the highest O.E. stall speed 4R100/E4OD converter made if it exists. It seems to me the easiest path is to have the stall speed raised on your converter or just buy an aftermarket one OTS.
raysorenson
10-31-2017, 08:28 PM #61What happened to your adapter?
THe dzl converter will have a multi plate clutch which is nice, but maybe not necessary. THe stall speed will be lower than the 5.4. I think some econoline 250's had 4r100's behind the 4.2 V6. That would be the highest O.E. stall speed 4R100/E4OD converter made if it exists. It seems to me the easiest path is to have the stall speed raised on your converter or just buy an aftermarket one OTS.
50harleyrider
03-02-2018, 03:26 PM #63I used the oe 99 w210 fans-seem to work fine. haven't pushed it on a hot towing day yet so we'll see if I need to use stronger fans since I had to give up the oe 606 belt driven fan for clearance reasons.
(10-31-2017, 08:28 PM)raysorenson What happened to your adapter?
THe dzl converter will have a multi plate clutch which is nice, but maybe not necessary. THe stall speed will be lower than the 5.4. I think some econoline 250's had 4r100's behind the 4.2 V6. That would be the highest O.E. stall speed 4R100/E4OD converter made if it exists. It seems to me the easiest path is to have the stall speed raised on your converter or just buy an aftermarket one OTS.
I have a converter shop in Spokane Washington that builds custom converters for my diesel conversions. He can build a heavier diesel converter with whatever stall speed I need. Find a converter rebuilder near you and talk to them about what you need.
I think Evenglass on the forum has a shop that builds converters also.
Zeeman
(10-31-2017, 08:28 PM)raysorenson What happened to your adapter?
THe dzl converter will have a multi plate clutch which is nice, but maybe not necessary. THe stall speed will be lower than the 5.4. I think some econoline 250's had 4r100's behind the 4.2 V6. That would be the highest O.E. stall speed 4R100/E4OD converter made if it exists. It seems to me the easiest path is to have the stall speed raised on your converter or just buy an aftermarket one OTS.
I have a converter shop in Spokane Washington that builds custom converters for my diesel conversions. He can build a heavier diesel converter with whatever stall speed I need. Find a converter rebuilder near you and talk to them about what you need.
I think Evenglass on the forum has a shop that builds converters also.
Zeeman
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