STD Tuning Drivetrain while my tranny is out of the car- 84 300TD

while my tranny is out of the car- 84 300TD

while my tranny is out of the car- 84 300TD

 
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MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
01-01-2015, 09:13 PM #1
My transmission in the 84 300TD (617-95X) needs to be pulled and re-sealed. It's leaking fluid, lots of it. It shifted awesome prior to the Myna pump install which had a bad part which caused it to shift very harshly. Really harsh- jarring. I failed to find the source of this and drove it anyways for about 2 years and adjusted my driving style to stop the clunking shifts as best I could. After the cure it no longer clunked/shifts harsh, but it had already started leaking fluid and it got worse and worse; thus the seal needs to be replaced. So my indie will pull it and do the work. I don't have the tools or the lift to do so. Please note that if the Myna pump is set to full delivery the tranny would slip in the 2/3 and also 3/4. Even at less than full delivery when I give full throttle it slips in 2/3 and 3/4. My engine is strong, the turbo is stock but I've installed a small IC. I have the VW AAZ injectors.

My question here is what should be done to it while it's down. I bought a superior shift kit with springs; install the stronger springs for the 2/3 and 3/4? 188K miles on the car and tranny I believe. I'm the second owner.
Please advise.
This post was last modified: 01-01-2015, 09:16 PM by MTUPower.

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
01-01-2015, 09:13 PM #1

My transmission in the 84 300TD (617-95X) needs to be pulled and re-sealed. It's leaking fluid, lots of it. It shifted awesome prior to the Myna pump install which had a bad part which caused it to shift very harshly. Really harsh- jarring. I failed to find the source of this and drove it anyways for about 2 years and adjusted my driving style to stop the clunking shifts as best I could. After the cure it no longer clunked/shifts harsh, but it had already started leaking fluid and it got worse and worse; thus the seal needs to be replaced. So my indie will pull it and do the work. I don't have the tools or the lift to do so. Please note that if the Myna pump is set to full delivery the tranny would slip in the 2/3 and also 3/4. Even at less than full delivery when I give full throttle it slips in 2/3 and 3/4. My engine is strong, the turbo is stock but I've installed a small IC. I have the VW AAZ injectors.

My question here is what should be done to it while it's down. I bought a superior shift kit with springs; install the stronger springs for the 2/3 and 3/4? 188K miles on the car and tranny I believe. I'm the second owner.
Please advise.


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

raysorenson
Superturbo

1,162
01-02-2015, 05:15 PM #2
I think the front pump gasket leaks more often than the front seal. I'd make sure he pulls the pump too.
raysorenson
01-02-2015, 05:15 PM #2

I think the front pump gasket leaks more often than the front seal. I'd make sure he pulls the pump too.

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
01-03-2015, 12:33 AM #3
(01-02-2015, 05:15 PM)raysorenson I think the front pump gasket leaks more often than the front seal. I'd make sure he pulls the pump too.
Absolutely.

No one else ? I'm not a transmission expert at all- so help me out! thanks

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
01-03-2015, 12:33 AM #3

(01-02-2015, 05:15 PM)raysorenson I think the front pump gasket leaks more often than the front seal. I'd make sure he pulls the pump too.
Absolutely.

No one else ? I'm not a transmission expert at all- so help me out! thanks


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

raysorenson
Superturbo

1,162
01-03-2015, 08:31 AM #4
I used to build them at a Ford dealer but I have never been inside a 722. Some generic advice is to raise line pressure to keep the trans from slipping. This is often done by increasing spring force behind the line pressure control valve. To give specific advice I'd have to have a hydraulic schematic of your trans.

Here's a basic primer on trans pressures. http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/transm...ntrol.html

One thing I should mention that is a little outside the norm on some 4 speed 722's is that throttle pressure does not affect shift timing. My wife's 93 w124 has separate linkage to adjust shift timing, but throttle pressure is still determined by the vacuum modulator. This is why you often get the advice of adjusting the modulator valve. Shift firmness is increased without the downside of having very late shifts that typically occur with high throttle pressure. Increasing throttle pressure alone is often inadequate to handle the torque an engine with a worked pump can churn out. Since a properly adjusted trans has maximum throttle pressure at WOT anyway, adjusting throttle pressure to be high all the time can give you a false sense of security because the light throttle shifts are extra firm, but the full throttle shifts haven't changed.

Is there any info that came with the shift kit?
raysorenson
01-03-2015, 08:31 AM #4

I used to build them at a Ford dealer but I have never been inside a 722. Some generic advice is to raise line pressure to keep the trans from slipping. This is often done by increasing spring force behind the line pressure control valve. To give specific advice I'd have to have a hydraulic schematic of your trans.

Here's a basic primer on trans pressures. http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/transm...ntrol.html

One thing I should mention that is a little outside the norm on some 4 speed 722's is that throttle pressure does not affect shift timing. My wife's 93 w124 has separate linkage to adjust shift timing, but throttle pressure is still determined by the vacuum modulator. This is why you often get the advice of adjusting the modulator valve. Shift firmness is increased without the downside of having very late shifts that typically occur with high throttle pressure. Increasing throttle pressure alone is often inadequate to handle the torque an engine with a worked pump can churn out. Since a properly adjusted trans has maximum throttle pressure at WOT anyway, adjusting throttle pressure to be high all the time can give you a false sense of security because the light throttle shifts are extra firm, but the full throttle shifts haven't changed.

Is there any info that came with the shift kit?

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
01-03-2015, 10:52 AM #5
(01-03-2015, 08:31 AM)raysorenson I used to build them at a Ford dealer but I have never been inside a 722. Some generic advice is to raise line pressure to keep the trans from slipping. This is often done by increasing spring force behind the line pressure control valve. To give specific advice I'd have to have a hydraulic schematic of your trans.

Here's a basic primer on trans pressures. http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/transm...ntrol.html

One thing I should mention that is a little outside the norm on some 4 speed 722's is that throttle pressure does not affect shift timing. My wife's 93 w124 has separate linkage to adjust shift timing, but throttle pressure is still determined by the vacuum modulator. This is why you often get the advice of adjusting the modulator valve. Shift firmness is increased without the downside of having very late shifts that typically occur with high throttle pressure. Increasing throttle pressure alone is often inadequate to handle the torque an engine with a worked pump can churn out. Since a properly adjusted trans has maximum throttle pressure at WOT anyway, adjusting throttle pressure to be high all the time can give you a false sense of security because the light throttle shifts are extra firm, but the full throttle shifts haven't changed.

Is there any info that came with the shift kit?
Many threads over on PP, and I've read almost all of them at one time or another. Transmissions are both mechanical and art. Installed in a w123 it's black magic voodoo when trying to get them to operate as wished especially when you've upped the HP with the 617. I'm going to have my indie fully check everything- bands/clutches/valve bodies/k1/k2. However since the tranny shifted like a dream with my altered but stock MW pump and then very harsh with the Myna pump- I'm guessing that the tranny is fine, it just needs to be able to hold the gear with more power(and not slip when shifting from 2/3 and 3/4) Since the same unit has been in many cars with alot more HP- I think (I hope!) it'll be fine.
This post was last modified: 01-03-2015, 10:55 AM by MTUPower.

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
01-03-2015, 10:52 AM #5

(01-03-2015, 08:31 AM)raysorenson I used to build them at a Ford dealer but I have never been inside a 722. Some generic advice is to raise line pressure to keep the trans from slipping. This is often done by increasing spring force behind the line pressure control valve. To give specific advice I'd have to have a hydraulic schematic of your trans.

Here's a basic primer on trans pressures. http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/transm...ntrol.html

One thing I should mention that is a little outside the norm on some 4 speed 722's is that throttle pressure does not affect shift timing. My wife's 93 w124 has separate linkage to adjust shift timing, but throttle pressure is still determined by the vacuum modulator. This is why you often get the advice of adjusting the modulator valve. Shift firmness is increased without the downside of having very late shifts that typically occur with high throttle pressure. Increasing throttle pressure alone is often inadequate to handle the torque an engine with a worked pump can churn out. Since a properly adjusted trans has maximum throttle pressure at WOT anyway, adjusting throttle pressure to be high all the time can give you a false sense of security because the light throttle shifts are extra firm, but the full throttle shifts haven't changed.

Is there any info that came with the shift kit?
Many threads over on PP, and I've read almost all of them at one time or another. Transmissions are both mechanical and art. Installed in a w123 it's black magic voodoo when trying to get them to operate as wished especially when you've upped the HP with the 617. I'm going to have my indie fully check everything- bands/clutches/valve bodies/k1/k2. However since the tranny shifted like a dream with my altered but stock MW pump and then very harsh with the Myna pump- I'm guessing that the tranny is fine, it just needs to be able to hold the gear with more power(and not slip when shifting from 2/3 and 3/4) Since the same unit has been in many cars with alot more HP- I think (I hope!) it'll be fine.


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
01-04-2015, 10:52 AM #6
I would definitely install the superior shift kit to firm up the shifting. Just make sure your Indy is familiar which spring is what and you may need to go over it with him.

Here is the kit for sale from ledpanzer at a good price.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...8#pid64878


.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
01-04-2015, 10:52 AM #6

I would definitely install the superior shift kit to firm up the shifting. Just make sure your Indy is familiar which spring is what and you may need to go over it with him.

Here is the kit for sale from ledpanzer at a good price.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...8#pid64878


.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

 
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