Classic Sleeper 617 (85 300CD)
Classic Sleeper 617 (85 300CD)
Here is what I've got:
1 - 1985 Mercedes 300CD (Turbo)
1 - Garret T3 (On its way out the door as soon as i find a HX35)
Somewheres Around 10 Quarts - Shell Rotella T6 Fully Synthetic
1 - Aftermarket Bosch Radiator
1 - Veggy Oil Conversion Kit (Disabled)
A Few Floor Jacks
And last but probably most important a decent collection of non-electric tools
What are my goals:
1: North of 300 HP (In Progress)
--1a: an 8mm Super IP (Im from the US so i would very much appreciate a stateside option and estimated price)
--1b: a HX35 Turbo
--1c: Water to Air Intercooling
--1d: No more TRAP Ox
2: Daily Driver
3: Speed
So far I have completed:
--valve adjustment,
--oil change + filter(needs another but my wallet is empty until I collect some checks),
--radiator swap,
--engine compartment degrease (it could use a second coat),
--Manual boost controller (was 6 psi MAX before not 13-14 max),
--cleaned interior,
--new primary and one new secondary fuel filter (mine has two),
--new injector return lines (in progress),
--overboost protection solenoid bypass (I'm aware this isnt ideal but I wanted to),
--swapped return and pull fuel lines (the tank sock is clogged and I was unable to remove it),
--exhaust removal (I pulled off the exhaust system past the point where it drops out of the engine bay, essentially at the first point I could without cutting it),
--new sound system control unit,
--ALDA adjustment,
--egr computer bypass (paperclip for the tach),
--alarm system disabled (worked great until I locked and unlocked my door so much that i think i broke the sensor)
So that my friends is where I am at. She is a blast to drive and i hate to admit it but i floor her at lights and love to break 80 whenever possible (55 State Speed Limits), I will be posting photos soon but i would like to pose a few "simple" questions:
--Where and for how much may i purchase a 8mm pump?
--How would i go about installing a HX35?
--Reasonable price for a HX35?
--Intercooling.......
--Thoughts on parts such as a forged crank (where), domed pistons (are they already?), heavy duty valve springs (where) and anything else you guys can dream up.
--Where can i get prebuilt and tested 315 injectors
--Where would i find a "test pipe" for the exhaust to bypass (read remove) this hunk of metal under my turbo?
Here She is:
![[Image: Front%20Edited.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/Front%20Edited.jpg)
![[Image: Front%202%20Edited.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/Front%202%20Edited.jpg)
Under the Hood
![[Image: 20141104_134338.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/20141104_134338.jpg)
Drivers Side View
![[Image: 20141104_134353.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/20141104_134353.jpg)
Passenger Side View
![[Image: 20141104_134406.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/20141104_134406.jpg)
For all of you who like to hear what things sound like:
SupremeTurbo617
10-30-2014, 07:17 PM #1Alright guys, as someone who has been a daily browser of these forums i have finally decided to make an account and share my thoughts.
Here is what I've got:
1 - 1985 Mercedes 300CD (Turbo)
1 - Garret T3 (On its way out the door as soon as i find a HX35)
Somewheres Around 10 Quarts - Shell Rotella T6 Fully Synthetic
1 - Aftermarket Bosch Radiator
1 - Veggy Oil Conversion Kit (Disabled)
A Few Floor Jacks
And last but probably most important a decent collection of non-electric tools
What are my goals:
1: North of 300 HP (In Progress)
--1a: an 8mm Super IP (Im from the US so i would very much appreciate a stateside option and estimated price)
--1b: a HX35 Turbo
--1c: Water to Air Intercooling
--1d: No more TRAP Ox
2: Daily Driver
3: Speed
So far I have completed:
--valve adjustment,
--oil change + filter(needs another but my wallet is empty until I collect some checks),
--radiator swap,
--engine compartment degrease (it could use a second coat),
--Manual boost controller (was 6 psi MAX before not 13-14 max),
--cleaned interior,
--new primary and one new secondary fuel filter (mine has two),
--new injector return lines (in progress),
--overboost protection solenoid bypass (I'm aware this isnt ideal but I wanted to),
--swapped return and pull fuel lines (the tank sock is clogged and I was unable to remove it),
--exhaust removal (I pulled off the exhaust system past the point where it drops out of the engine bay, essentially at the first point I could without cutting it),
--new sound system control unit,
--ALDA adjustment,
--egr computer bypass (paperclip for the tach),
--alarm system disabled (worked great until I locked and unlocked my door so much that i think i broke the sensor)
So that my friends is where I am at. She is a blast to drive and i hate to admit it but i floor her at lights and love to break 80 whenever possible (55 State Speed Limits), I will be posting photos soon but i would like to pose a few "simple" questions:
--Where and for how much may i purchase a 8mm pump?
--How would i go about installing a HX35?
--Reasonable price for a HX35?
--Intercooling.......
--Thoughts on parts such as a forged crank (where), domed pistons (are they already?), heavy duty valve springs (where) and anything else you guys can dream up.
--Where can i get prebuilt and tested 315 injectors
--Where would i find a "test pipe" for the exhaust to bypass (read remove) this hunk of metal under my turbo?
Here She is:
Under the Hood
Drivers Side View
Passenger Side View
For all of you who like to hear what things sound like:
Dieselmeken was working on a set of elements for an MW pump. He can send them to the stateside shop to put them in if he has them done.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
$250 is reasonable for a used HX35. You might want to look into a hy35, as it will spool faster on the lower VE om617.
Dieselmeken was working on a set of elements for an MW pump. He can send them to the stateside shop to put them in if he has them done.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Any idea on what Dieselmeken is looking for a set of 5 elements?
SupremeTurbo617
10-30-2014, 08:42 PM #3I might have access to an H1C shortly, would that be worth my time to consider or should i just try and find a HY35 from the get-go?
Any idea on what Dieselmeken is looking for a set of 5 elements?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Email or pm him. He's a busy guy, and I'm not sure he had the final design done yet or not. Hy35s are cheap and plentiful, h1C are old technology and spool slowly.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Quick question regarding your EGR-less manifold, where did you find those block off plates? Ive been scouring the forums and cant seem to find a definitive answer on where to buy some other than "pm so and so who is no longer active." Unless of course you just found one with no egr from the factory.
SupremeTurbo617
10-30-2014, 08:57 PM #5Awesome, thank you for your two cents; looks like I'm off to craigslist for an hy35 and to send a few messages. Wonder what time it is over in Sweden...
Quick question regarding your EGR-less manifold, where did you find those block off plates? Ive been scouring the forums and cant seem to find a definitive answer on where to buy some other than "pm so and so who is no longer active." Unless of course you just found one with no egr from the factory.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
I have one! How badly do you want it? You can PM me and we can talk.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
Expect to pay $1500-$2k for big elements and calibration. Dieslmenken is the guru, but there is a stateside shop he works with-search for his posts they're in here somewhere. The pump is the biggest hurdle($$$$), you should get the pump then get everything else going.
Greazzer can get you bigger nozzles for the injectors
The turbo crank is already hardened, the turbo pistons are already the best design you can get. You will get gains by porting the head and making a better exhaust manifold. The N/A w115 intake is super-duper, the w123 N/A intake is great too, but takes a custom manifold to fit a turbo.
Reaming the prechambers is said to help, I've never run them but Captain America likes his
There's a guy up in Canada who makes custom cams for TDIs. He would be the right person for a hot 617 cam. Search will find him.
After all that you'll need to turn up the pressure in the transmission or go manual. There's a shift kit floating around somehwere.
PM me if you need the hookup for weld-els or flanges. I'm out right now but can make more.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-31-2014, 08:12 AM #7You can make egr plates by hammering a piece of copper for the round guy, and tracing the gasket for the flat guy. If you have a sawzall, file, hammer and drill you can make the blockoff plates easy. Personally I'd tap the round part, and install an exhaust pressure gauge.
Expect to pay $1500-$2k for big elements and calibration. Dieslmenken is the guru, but there is a stateside shop he works with-search for his posts they're in here somewhere. The pump is the biggest hurdle($$$$), you should get the pump then get everything else going.
Greazzer can get you bigger nozzles for the injectors
The turbo crank is already hardened, the turbo pistons are already the best design you can get. You will get gains by porting the head and making a better exhaust manifold. The N/A w115 intake is super-duper, the w123 N/A intake is great too, but takes a custom manifold to fit a turbo.
Reaming the prechambers is said to help, I've never run them but Captain America likes his
There's a guy up in Canada who makes custom cams for TDIs. He would be the right person for a hot 617 cam. Search will find him.
After all that you'll need to turn up the pressure in the transmission or go manual. There's a shift kit floating around somehwere.
PM me if you need the hookup for weld-els or flanges. I'm out right now but can make more.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
SupremeTurbo617
10-31-2014, 11:52 AM #8So my next bets should and will be transmission shift kit then finding 2 grand for a pump. Of course i also need to see if greazzer can get me FULL 315 injectors pop tested and all, not just the nozzels. Photos will be added shortly!
(10-31-2014, 11:52 AM)SupremeTurbo617 So my next bets should and will be transmission shift kit then finding 2 grand for a pump. Of course i also need to see if greazzer can get me FULL 315 injectors pop tested and all, not just the nozzels. Photos will be added shortly!
The bodies don't matter, any standard injector is fine. The nozzle is what counts
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-31-2014, 12:35 PM #9(10-31-2014, 11:52 AM)SupremeTurbo617 So my next bets should and will be transmission shift kit then finding 2 grand for a pump. Of course i also need to see if greazzer can get me FULL 315 injectors pop tested and all, not just the nozzels. Photos will be added shortly!
The bodies don't matter, any standard injector is fine. The nozzle is what counts
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
SupremeTurbo617
10-31-2014, 12:40 PM #10Well my logic is that i rather they be pretested and set so i dont screw it up while installing the nozzles. Besides as my daily driver more than a few hours down time is a problem so shipping my current set out doesnt work.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
How soon do you want the set of 315s? I have a set with only a few thousand miles on them
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
![[Image: 20141104_152414.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/20141104_152414.jpg)
SupremeTurbo617
11-04-2014, 04:53 PM #12So i messed around a little bit today and finalized some of the EGR removal and pulled out the vac lines to and from the valves and cleaned it up a little bit. I managed to break 2 of the hard lines for the ALDA banjo bolts, luckly within an inch of each end but they were a bear to get reinserted into the hard lines.
1: What is the best rear end i can get ratio wise and hopefully fully locked?
2: Six Speeds. Is the 420G still the best i can do reasonably?
3: For my current transmission is it alright to run Dex VI? its a stock 4 speed and i feel i might get slightly better reaction times out of it with a fully synthetic.
Thats all for now, im working on 315 injectors and a 8mm pump from that place in california. well to clarify im working on the money. I might throw a HY35 into the mix somewheres along the line.
SupremeTurbo617
11-04-2014, 08:22 PM #13So ive got a few of those really tough to pin down questions.
1: What is the best rear end i can get ratio wise and hopefully fully locked?
2: Six Speeds. Is the 420G still the best i can do reasonably?
3: For my current transmission is it alright to run Dex VI? its a stock 4 speed and i feel i might get slightly better reaction times out of it with a fully synthetic.
Thats all for now, im working on 315 injectors and a 8mm pump from that place in california. well to clarify im working on the money. I might throw a HY35 into the mix somewheres along the line.
And what the hell is all that trash in your engine bay?
Those trap ox manifold are goofy looking. I've got a spare turbo manifold i could cut up and make it non EGR for you, and I've also got a stock turbo manifold if you decide to go a different way than A/W.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
For now, the best thing you can do to your transmission is turn up the modulator on the side of the trans to get more line pressure out of it.
And what the hell is all that trash in your engine bay?
Those trap ox manifold are goofy looking. I've got a spare turbo manifold i could cut up and make it non EGR for you, and I've also got a stock turbo manifold if you decide to go a different way than A/W.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-05-2014, 10:35 AM #15It's a waste oil system, I used to run the same switchover valves(they're cheap&common)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
SupremeTurbo617
11-05-2014, 03:46 PM #16Simpler=Better is spot on about the mess. As it stands i am thinking of pulling out that system and selling it.
(11-05-2014, 04:02 PM)mbz123 Always love when mr. v. grips can drop in for a photo op 8-D
my sides = in orbit
They make $$$$ hose clamps, tho, when they manage to come loose!
MBZ123
And on the eighth day god created vicegrips!
SupremeTurbo617
11-05-2014, 04:04 PM #18(11-05-2014, 04:02 PM)mbz123 Always love when mr. v. grips can drop in for a photo op 8-D
my sides = in orbit
They make $$$$ hose clamps, tho, when they manage to come loose!
MBZ123
And on the eighth day god created vicegrips!
On the top of the 85 modulator it is labeled with one recessed nipple for vac and the other to the transmission. Beneath it is the pressure nipple and the turbo input pressure because in 85 they decided that instead of just vac and throttle position based it should take into account boost which will actively change based on temp, fuel, and other driving factors. Basically the holy grail in regards to telling the transmission how hard to shift and when. So it would appear that when i was trying to get my car to shut off a few months back (connection on the back of the IP that i cant see because of my grease car system) i was swapping lines and trying to get something to happen. Well when i got it working and tried to put it back to a better version of stock i swapped the vac and tranny lines on the top of the modulator. So i swapped them back and went for a test drive. The shifts are still bad but at least they are a lot faster. 2-3 is now decent. I could use a shift kit (superior) but i rather not buy a kit then pull the trans for a 5 or 6 speed a few months later.
SupremeTurbo617
11-06-2014, 04:27 PM #19Slight Update Today. I had having some trouble with my transmission having a long (i mean like 5 to 10 second long) drawn out shift from 2nd to 3rd. At first i assumed it was just mercedes trying to avoid a harsh shift (dont judge i wasnt thinking straight) and ignored it. Then i thought ok this is a bit long and can not be healthy. So i checked my tranny fluid and found it has no odor to it and that the level is mostly consistant. (It leaks around the pan a little bit, not enough to drip but its wet) Then i opened a forum question here in the drivetrain subgroup about what transmission to swap in and asked a few more leading questions. Somehow it came to my attention that i should adjust the vac modulator for the tranny. I then jacked up the car and looked for it on the side of the case. Found nothing and went a little bit nuts until i remembered that ive got the vacuum hell model (85 Cali) and that the modulator was in the engine compartment. So i popped the hood and look a look. All of my lines were connected. And i had long ago removed the dashpot to give my shifts some strength which helped at the time. Then i traced the lines looking for cracks and punched myself in the face for stupidity. Can anyone guess what i did?
On the top of the 85 modulator it is labeled with one recessed nipple for vac and the other to the transmission. Beneath it is the pressure nipple and the turbo input pressure because in 85 they decided that instead of just vac and throttle position based it should take into account boost which will actively change based on temp, fuel, and other driving factors. Basically the holy grail in regards to telling the transmission how hard to shift and when. So it would appear that when i was trying to get my car to shut off a few months back (connection on the back of the IP that i cant see because of my grease car system) i was swapping lines and trying to get something to happen. Well when i got it working and tried to put it back to a better version of stock i swapped the vac and tranny lines on the top of the modulator. So i swapped them back and went for a test drive. The shifts are still bad but at least they are a lot faster. 2-3 is now decent. I could use a shift kit (superior) but i rather not buy a kit then pull the trans for a 5 or 6 speed a few months later.
SupremeTurbo617
11-09-2014, 07:09 PM #20Thinking of going from my stock rear end to a 3.07 LSD rear end. Has anyone here done this and what would my advantages be? I'm figuring a better off the line and acceleration but a lessor top end speed. Heck, maybe i can finally break the rear wheels free for a nice squeal.
SupremeTurbo617
11-10-2014, 08:34 PM #21Hey guys, new development today. Whilst i was eh hem testing the top end power and speed i ran into this odd issue where i can rev up past 80 mph but dont seem to accelerate, i am near full boost at this point but unless im on perfectly straight ground or going down hill i cant break much past 80. Its been awhile since ive hit 95 and its beginning to get disappointing that i cant seem to go any faster even with my foot to the floor. Has anyone else run into this? What should i check or do to fix this?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
SupremeTurbo617
11-11-2014, 11:39 AM #24You see that is my concern. I know the transmission is going to crap but she flys from 0 to 60 then isnt too bad from 60 to 80 then it just becomes a pain to get any faster. I used to be able to hit damn near a hundred before i felt it seem to top out. I might pull my fuel filter today and see if that is clogged up. It could also be the switch over valve setup i have for veggy oil. Ive never checked that to see if it flows well. I really should pull that out and plug the input lines from the back today... Actually let me go do that and see if i cant get some results.
![[Image: 20141111_151940.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/20141111_151940.jpg)
Before:
![[Image: 20141111_122903.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/20141111_122903.jpg)
During:
![[Image: 20141111_132413.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/20141111_132413.jpg)
After some clean up:
![[Image: 20141111_145621.jpg]](http://hurricanegroup.webs.com/Pictures/20141111_145621.jpg)
My results were sadly lacking. I seemed to gain no power though it does return to idle a bit quicker - go figure that one out.
SupremeTurbo617
11-11-2014, 04:00 PM #25So i pulled out my veggy oil system so she is now officially stock fuel system wise. I removed a secondary filter that was not needed (i already had one inline just up stream.) It looked something like this:
Before:
During:
After some clean up:
My results were sadly lacking. I seemed to gain no power though it does return to idle a bit quicker - go figure that one out.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-11-2014, 09:06 PM #26That wrapped filter heater coil is worth $$ to the right person
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
SupremeTurbo617
11-11-2014, 09:15 PM #27Don't i know it. The full kit not including the tank was 3 grand. So if anyone is looking for a full kit at a used price let me know. (Im not looking for anywheres as insane of a price as 3 grand, probably more like 5-600 for the whole thing. Tank heater lines and valves and gauges and switches included.)
Fingers crossed that it is the valve cover and not a pinhole in the head...
SupremeTurbo617
11-19-2014, 08:06 AM #28Well guys i have some bad news. My morning commute ended with barely arriving in the parking lot. At first i thought i was out of fuel and i probably am, however i popped the hood and found something horrifying. The small ring of oil that had been present on the valve cover gasket since i did the valves has been slowly leaking more and more. Well now i see that it has been making its way down the engine completely. Not enough to lose me oil pressure, raise my temp, or anything like that. I dont think i have even lost a quart but all the same it has now reached the point where i ordered a new gasket. More over i think my issue is a lack of fuel. So i will be phoning a friend to drop by my house and grab a tank of diesel that i pulled out since its so damned cold and i did not want it to freeze... Figures. I really should buy a new tank sensor or whatever we call it. (I would guess a sending unit).
Fingers crossed that it is the valve cover and not a pinhole in the head...
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Seating the valve gasket is a tedious process. Don't be too hard on yourself. The fuel tank sender is most likely fouled from the WVO. I had the same issue when I ran it for a while. I had to change the sender, and the tank filter. You should get more fuel that point. There is hope for cleaning the sender if it is working even slightly. As long as you are getting some kind of reading you should be able to clean it up.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
SupremeTurbo617
11-19-2014, 10:03 AM #30I ran a seperate tank wvo system, so it wasnt that. My sending unit was just coated in the sludge that my additives ripped off of the tank walls. I then pulled it and cleaned it up but i snapped one of the lines so its broken atm. As per the strainer i could not remove it so im going to pull the tank this summer, until then i swapped the return and pull lines. I will have a gasket in my hands this evening. Any tips for seating it? I dont like seeing its lifeblood pour onto the ground
SupremeTurbo617
11-19-2014, 06:20 PM #31Great news!! I filled her up on fuel and she sounds better than ever. I will be pulling off my valve cover this evening to see what the hell happened to the gasket. Before i do however i will be browseing the forums to see what i should have done to the gasket that i must have not done before. Let me know if you want photos of under the valve cover.
SupremeTurbo617
12-01-2014, 04:01 PM #32So i replaced the valve cover gasket and it was great for a few days. Now i have oil leaking from around the breather on the top of the valve cover and one spot on the gasket; and i do not mean leaking, i mean a low volume high pressure style leak as there are thin arterial lines that reach a good 8 inches away. So i'm led to believe that my oil pressure is high or my crankcase pressure is high. either way i am slightly concerned. Advice is greatly appreciated.
(12-01-2014, 04:01 PM)SupremeTurbo617 So i replaced the valve cover gasket and it was great for a few days. Now i have oil leaking from around the breather on the top of the valve cover and one spot on the gasket; and i do not mean leaking, i mean a low volume high pressure style leak as there are thin arterial lines that reach a good 8 inches away. So i'm led to believe that my oil pressure is high or my crankcase pressure is high. either way i am slightly concerned. Advice is greatly appreciated.there is some special sealant used for hg's, remove the vc, clean very well everything, and add some sealant too. The breather on the vc leak is very common to many cars, maybe some new o-rings or whatever is sealing that part should do the trick,otherwise some sealant in there too. Don't forget to let the sealant harden enough before u start the engine! GL!
lost in the diesel universe.............
(12-01-2014, 04:01 PM)SupremeTurbo617 So i replaced the valve cover gasket and it was great for a few days. Now i have oil leaking from around the breather on the top of the valve cover and one spot on the gasket; and i do not mean leaking, i mean a low volume high pressure style leak as there are thin arterial lines that reach a good 8 inches away. So i'm led to believe that my oil pressure is high or my crankcase pressure is high. either way i am slightly concerned. Advice is greatly appreciated.there is some special sealant used for hg's, remove the vc, clean very well everything, and add some sealant too. The breather on the vc leak is very common to many cars, maybe some new o-rings or whatever is sealing that part should do the trick,otherwise some sealant in there too. Don't forget to let the sealant harden enough before u start the engine! GL!
lost in the diesel universe.............
SupremeTurbo617
12-03-2014, 12:25 PM #34Well you see, i have already sealed it up tight with some of the older, more quality sealant. Its as tight as it will get. My issue is that i have enough pressure present to make it spray oil at such a high velocity that it break though my well tightened and sealed breather.
Crankcase pressure can be very bad since it can blow front and rear main seals out.
I would treat the oil leakage around the valve cover as a symptom, not the problem.
You might have already checked this. Maybe the oil seperator in the air cleaner is clogged.
Crankcase pressure can be very bad since it can blow front and rear main seals out.
I would treat the oil leakage around the valve cover as a symptom, not the problem.
SupremeTurbo617
12-03-2014, 03:19 PM #36My air cleaner does not have a seperator that i have found. It just kind of drips into the bottom of the housing for the filter. What do you think the problem is arising from?
You can start the engine and remove the oil dipstick then put your thumb over that opening. You will feel the pressure on your thumb if it is there.
Another test is to completely lossen oil fill cap while the engine is running and see if it will stay in place. If it dances wildly you probably have crankcase pressure.
The stock oil separator always induces some crankcase pressure. A lot of us have gone to an oil catch can to completely eliminate it.
The picture below shows what I'm talking about. There is a contraption in the air cleaner that separates the oil from the crankcase gasses. That might be clogged. There are a lot of ways to test for crankcase pressure.
You can start the engine and remove the oil dipstick then put your thumb over that opening. You will feel the pressure on your thumb if it is there.
Another test is to completely lossen oil fill cap while the engine is running and see if it will stay in place. If it dances wildly you probably have crankcase pressure.
The stock oil separator always induces some crankcase pressure. A lot of us have gone to an oil catch can to completely eliminate it.
SupremeTurbo617
12-03-2014, 05:51 PM #38That line leads to nothing inside the air filter housing. It drops straight down to the bottom. I will test for pressure at the dipstick tomorrow when it is not pitch black and 20 deg. Thanks for your help!
In other news i had to, uh, test the brakes, recently. And have discovered that since then my front end is making a bit of noise; not to mention that despite my brake pads being decent their ability to stop quickly and lock up the wheels is sadly lacking. I either warped a spring or shock or tore up a balljoint. On the bright side it drives alright and i have a set of Lemförder balljoints set aside for when i figure out how to remove the old ones and reinsall them. It figures just as i decide that i will keep it almost stock and my daily driver, perhaps even selling it after i build myself another car, that something happens and i need to put more work into it...
SupremeTurbo617
12-06-2014, 09:35 AM #39Small update on a few things. First and formost the pressure. If i were to remove the oil fill cap at idle it will hop up and down a fair bit and then oil will begin to splatter from around it. At the dipstick there is no pressure. To be perfectly honest im really starting to hope and think that it is the oil system as a whole that has too much pressure. The lower oil cooler line leaks oil when its running as well. Im probably going to go buy some more oil today and change it as ive reached the point in time where it should be done in my book.
In other news i had to, uh, test the brakes, recently. And have discovered that since then my front end is making a bit of noise; not to mention that despite my brake pads being decent their ability to stop quickly and lock up the wheels is sadly lacking. I either warped a spring or shock or tore up a balljoint. On the bright side it drives alright and i have a set of Lemförder balljoints set aside for when i figure out how to remove the old ones and reinsall them. It figures just as i decide that i will keep it almost stock and my daily driver, perhaps even selling it after i build myself another car, that something happens and i need to put more work into it...
(12-03-2014, 05:51 PM)SupremeTurbo617 That line leads to nothing inside the air filter housing. It drops straight down to the bottom. I will test for pressure at the dipstick tomorrow when it is not pitch black and 20 deg. Thanks for your help!
If there is a great amount of engine blowby, crankcase pressure will push out oil at higher engine speeds. If so make vent to turbo more direct, or restrict vent line at air filter. This allows turbo to help pull vent gases out .
(12-03-2014, 05:51 PM)SupremeTurbo617 That line leads to nothing inside the air filter housing. It drops straight down to the bottom. I will test for pressure at the dipstick tomorrow when it is not pitch black and 20 deg. Thanks for your help!
If there is a great amount of engine blowby, crankcase pressure will push out oil at higher engine speeds. If so make vent to turbo more direct, or restrict vent line at air filter. This allows turbo to help pull vent gases out .
Small update guys, i recently had a bit of a love tap with a guard rail. The rail liked it rough and it ripped up my front right tire and destroyed my right fender and a bit of the passenger door to boot.
Also i have made the decision that i am going to be keeping the car fairly stock. Then i will be selling out and building a 70 chevelle.
Sorry to disappoint guys but i think this Mercedes project is a bit much for me at this point in time. The lack of parts for my car is somewhat bothersome and disconcerting should anything happen on the side of the road.
SupremeTurbo617
12-16-2014, 04:52 PM #42Great idea Hercules!! I will be trying that asap.
Small update guys, i recently had a bit of a love tap with a guard rail. The rail liked it rough and it ripped up my front right tire and destroyed my right fender and a bit of the passenger door to boot.
Also i have made the decision that i am going to be keeping the car fairly stock. Then i will be selling out and building a 70 chevelle.
Sorry to disappoint guys but i think this Mercedes project is a bit much for me at this point in time. The lack of parts for my car is somewhat bothersome and disconcerting should anything happen on the side of the road.
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