starting issue
starting issue
I can't get this damn motor started for the life of me. It cranks over sounds like it wants to start then stops. New starter new battery. Its getting fuel. I have some white/blackish smoke coming from the stack. Glow plugs seem to be working cause that's the only time it has turned over where it wants to start. I'm running out of ideas any help is greatly appreciated. And its an om617
the marks on the IP (missing tooth...) gives you begin of delivery of the IP.
This means you have to turn the engine to 24 deg before DTC (cyl. #1 in compression stroke, as you did correctly, but you set it to 0 deg).
This means now you are too late by 24 deg.
The IP has to go out again, the slots are only a few deg.
Later you do the fine adjustment with the drip method.
Rotating the IP in the slots towards the engine advances...
You are getting closer and closer.,
if you need more help scream
carlitosgy6
08-13-2014, 07:57 PM #2The ip was disturbed? It sounds as an out of time ip, you need to pull out the ip, and fix it, this is exactly what tomnik told me to do,
the marks on the IP (missing tooth...) gives you begin of delivery of the IP.
This means you have to turn the engine to 24 deg before DTC (cyl. #1 in compression stroke, as you did correctly, but you set it to 0 deg).
This means now you are too late by 24 deg.
The IP has to go out again, the slots are only a few deg.
Later you do the fine adjustment with the drip method.
Rotating the IP in the slots towards the engine advances...
You are getting closer and closer.,
if you need more help scream
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Loosen an injector line from an injector and check for flow when cranking, if no flow remove access cover on side of IP and check the rack can move back and forth freely. If its been stood it could be this, happened to me recently..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
![[Image: 20140818_16250_edit_1408405466660.jpg]](http://s65.photobucket.com/user/yotaman_2006/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140818_16250_edit_1408405466660.jpg.html)
maybe someone used a wire set from 6 cyl...test the glowplugs itself
so you are sure getting juice on them after key turned...
cheers
500SEC euro gen II powered by OM617a stolen from 84 300SD .... with 280se transmission now
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maybe someone used a wire set from 6 cyl...test the glowplugs itself
so you are sure getting juice on them after key turned...
cheers
500SEC euro gen II powered by OM617a stolen from 84 300SD .... with 280se transmission now
----------------------------------------------------------
.
So the pump has never come off the car. Timing "should" be correct. Assuming you transplanted this engine, did you bleed the system and make sure all the air is out?
Is the starter rolling it over pretty fast, or slowly?
Did you pull one or all the glowplugs to check and make sure they are working and look decent?
And I cant really tell from that picture what we are looking at in your hand, Is it a wire end or a bracket to hold the wire in place? Whatever it is it isn't on my 617
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Lets start from the beginning.
So the pump has never come off the car. Timing "should" be correct. Assuming you transplanted this engine, did you bleed the system and make sure all the air is out?
Is the starter rolling it over pretty fast, or slowly?
Did you pull one or all the glowplugs to check and make sure they are working and look decent?
And I cant really tell from that picture what we are looking at in your hand, Is it a wire end or a bracket to hold the wire in place? Whatever it is it isn't on my 617
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
Spray carb cleaner or starting fluid and at least see if it will run off that. That will at least give us an idea of if the motor will run.
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
fuel fire and air , thats engeniring basics for engines,
check starter, is powerfull enough,
check fuel at injectors , check for air leaks,
since is IDI would be very dificult to start without glow plugs, check them , wire them direct to batt , 2/3 min wont kill them , usually older engines like that have the conection in series , if one in the circuit is dead all the others are
check exaust while cranking, some kind of smell should come out.
good luck.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
hello there,
fuel fire and air , thats engeniring basics for engines,
check starter, is powerfull enough,
check fuel at injectors , check for air leaks,
since is IDI would be very dificult to start without glow plugs, check them , wire them direct to batt , 2/3 min wont kill them , usually older engines like that have the conection in series , if one in the circuit is dead all the others are
check exaust while cranking, some kind of smell should come out.
good luck.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Looks like pencil type
Even if the wire is connected from one glowplug to the next they are all parallel to ground. One bad glowplug dont kill the rest.
Glowplugs get worse with time. They can glow poorly but still have correct resistance. If you test one new and one old but not broken with a battery you will see how much faster the new one glows. Couple of seconds is enough to see the differens.
From the picture i doesnt look like the old loop glowplugs connected in series.
Looks like pencil type
Even if the wire is connected from one glowplug to the next they are all parallel to ground. One bad glowplug dont kill the rest.
Glowplugs get worse with time. They can glow poorly but still have correct resistance. If you test one new and one old but not broken with a battery you will see how much faster the new one glows. Couple of seconds is enough to see the differens.
(08-20-2014, 03:43 AM)barrote hello there,
fuel fire and air , thats engeniring basics for engines,
Fuel, air and ignition temperature are the basics.
Sounds like you don't have the ignition temperature, and a IDI engine are very hard to start without glow plugs like previously said.. My tractor and my 603 won't start (or very poorly) even at 25 degrees celcius. When starting my tractor for the first time I used a little burner in the intake to heat the air up.
(08-20-2014, 03:43 AM)barrote hello there,
fuel fire and air , thats engeniring basics for engines,
Fuel, air and ignition temperature are the basics.
Sounds like you don't have the ignition temperature, and a IDI engine are very hard to start without glow plugs like previously said.. My tractor and my 603 won't start (or very poorly) even at 25 degrees celcius. When starting my tractor for the first time I used a little burner in the intake to heat the air up.
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