Is it possible to rebuild an ASD diff?
Is it possible to rebuild an ASD diff?
Is there a complaint or symptom?
raysorenson
07-22-2014, 12:53 PM #2"Rebuild" could mean a lot stuff, and additionally, "ASD" is comprised of 2 separate systems that can work independently of each other.
Is there a complaint or symptom?
DiseaselWeasel
07-22-2014, 02:22 PM #3Std. diff rebuild, plus friction plates for LSD - yes, why not? Friction plates are available from MB, IIRC
Do you know if there's a rebuild kit available? Failing that, what parts are required?
Thanks guys. I'm fitting a used ASD diff thats 20+ years old. Its bound to need a freshen up inside! I won't be using the ASD system, just the LSD action. 35% locking wasn't it?
Do you know if there's a rebuild kit available? Failing that, what parts are required?
As far as the clutch plates go, MB specifies a stack height. They have shims to adjust stack height. If the plates are worn too thin, they will have to be replaced. The last time I checked on the clutches, they were just too expensive to replace as a mere precaution.
I suggest measuring clutch stack height. If that's good, pop the whole thing in there and drive away!
raysorenson
07-29-2014, 04:52 PM #5Personally, I never mess with rear end bearings until I see or hear something wrong. Since nothing's broke, you're only exposing yourself to the risk of something going wrong.
As far as the clutch plates go, MB specifies a stack height. They have shims to adjust stack height. If the plates are worn too thin, they will have to be replaced. The last time I checked on the clutches, they were just too expensive to replace as a mere precaution.
I suggest measuring clutch stack height. If that's good, pop the whole thing in there and drive away!
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Oooo wish I had known about that stack height. I put mine in and its pretty decent. I've heard that that the rebuild is difficult and requires special tools. Would love to see someone figure out how to do it on the cheap. I think I might be able to get friction disks cheaper.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Ideally I'd like a service manual if anyone knows of one available online?
I was thinking of using a spring block for a bit more lock. Anyone got experience with these?
Cheers mate. I havent taken the diff apart yet, but is it easy as popping off the cover to get to it or is there a whole load of disassembly involved?
Ideally I'd like a service manual if anyone knows of one available online?
I was thinking of using a spring block for a bit more lock. Anyone got experience with these?
(07-30-2014, 05:27 PM)hooblah Information found. Apparently I just remove the back cover, remove the circlips holding the drive cups in place, then install the spring block.
Anyone got experience with a spring block?
PM JTY
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-31-2014, 10:05 AM #9(07-30-2014, 05:27 PM)hooblah Information found. Apparently I just remove the back cover, remove the circlips holding the drive cups in place, then install the spring block.
Anyone got experience with a spring block?
PM JTY
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
raysorenson
08-01-2014, 02:20 PM #10On the Merc LSD's we deal with, it's the separation forces of the spider gears that apply force to the clutch plates. The more force applied to the spider gears, the harder the clutches are pushed together. This is a multiplicative force. A spring will give an additive force to the clutches. It will provide the same amount of force to the clutches in all situations.
Quote:DIff is 3.07 185mm opendiff, standard w126 300SD diff.
Installation is pretty easy, remove diff from car and take carrier from the housing, then install spring block inside the spyder gears. It's really just bolt-on stuff.
Only thing you need to consider is c-clips, as there is not enough space to put c-clips back, you need to check how loose your shafts are and is your car lowered. As I had some problems keeping the left shaft inside diff, used to get loose in very hard acceleration and high speed ( +150km/h). Shaft poped of the bores and usually needed to stop and lift the car up push the shaft back and drive away Confused
Did that for few times and then I put some thread locking in to the loose bore and it's still holding after few years Big Grin
My problem was too loose shaft joints and loose bore.
It worked pretty good, I bought the normal version, but if I would buy now I would take the racing model (with rough surface work). Remember to use good 95W-140W gear oil.
This driveshaft issue concerns me a bit. Anyone else experience this problem?
Im hoping that using the softer springs will be fine with the asd unit as it has a clutch pack. Ive heard that others who ran the stiffer springs with clutch packs caused them to lock up a bit too much, especially in tight manoeuvres.
One question remains... where do I get one of these spring blocks?
Failing that, does anyone have any dimensions so I can make my own?
Got a reply from JTY:
Quote:DIff is 3.07 185mm opendiff, standard w126 300SD diff.
Installation is pretty easy, remove diff from car and take carrier from the housing, then install spring block inside the spyder gears. It's really just bolt-on stuff.
Only thing you need to consider is c-clips, as there is not enough space to put c-clips back, you need to check how loose your shafts are and is your car lowered. As I had some problems keeping the left shaft inside diff, used to get loose in very hard acceleration and high speed ( +150km/h). Shaft poped of the bores and usually needed to stop and lift the car up push the shaft back and drive away Confused
Did that for few times and then I put some thread locking in to the loose bore and it's still holding after few years Big Grin
My problem was too loose shaft joints and loose bore.
It worked pretty good, I bought the normal version, but if I would buy now I would take the racing model (with rough surface work). Remember to use good 95W-140W gear oil.
This driveshaft issue concerns me a bit. Anyone else experience this problem?
Im hoping that using the softer springs will be fine with the asd unit as it has a clutch pack. Ive heard that others who ran the stiffer springs with clutch packs caused them to lock up a bit too much, especially in tight manoeuvres.
One question remains... where do I get one of these spring blocks?
Failing that, does anyone have any dimensions so I can make my own?
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