STD Tuning Suspension Front Coil Spring Removal

Front Coil Spring Removal

Front Coil Spring Removal

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
 
TKMad
K26-2

34
06-29-2014, 08:21 PM #1
So I bought new spring pads and a coil spring compressor for my '85 W123:

http://www.amazon.com/Telescopic-Spring-...B00G1RXGIO

And I cannot figure out how this is supposed to work. I know, small disk opening on the bottom of the spring and large opening at the top. Insert compressor, aka binding tool from hell, and turn 60 degrees to lock it in. Then turn tool and it will compress. Well it does compress, as it drives the threaded rod right into the lower control arm and binds solid.

Am I doing something wrong?!

Very frustrating!
This post was last modified: 06-29-2014, 08:21 PM by TKMad.
TKMad
06-29-2014, 08:21 PM #1

So I bought new spring pads and a coil spring compressor for my '85 W123:

http://www.amazon.com/Telescopic-Spring-...B00G1RXGIO

And I cannot figure out how this is supposed to work. I know, small disk opening on the bottom of the spring and large opening at the top. Insert compressor, aka binding tool from hell, and turn 60 degrees to lock it in. Then turn tool and it will compress. Well it does compress, as it drives the threaded rod right into the lower control arm and binds solid.

Am I doing something wrong?!

Very frustrating!

raysorenson
Superturbo

1,162
07-01-2014, 08:43 AM #2
Without pics, it can be hard to judge what you're talking about. Would compressing the spring by raising the LCA help? Like putting the tire on the ground or a jack under the LCA.

I've used my dozens of times. Great tool, but it can be fussy to set up.
raysorenson
07-01-2014, 08:43 AM #2

Without pics, it can be hard to judge what you're talking about. Would compressing the spring by raising the LCA help? Like putting the tire on the ground or a jack under the LCA.

I've used my dozens of times. Great tool, but it can be fussy to set up.

mbz123
GT2256V

122
07-01-2014, 10:09 AM #3
Oh, I so do love to watch the annual Darwin awards!!! Never a dull moment.

JK OP. But +1 on those pics.

MBZ123
mbz123
07-01-2014, 10:09 AM #3

Oh, I so do love to watch the annual Darwin awards!!! Never a dull moment.

JK OP. But +1 on those pics.

MBZ123

led-panzer
Holset

541
07-01-2014, 10:52 AM #4
You have to be very careful how you place the plates, they have to be far enough apart to compress the spring enough. On mine before I cut them I had to pry (not very hard mind you) them out with a shovel. Had the same problem with the center part hitting the spring perch.

1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
07-01-2014, 10:52 AM #4

You have to be very careful how you place the plates, they have to be far enough apart to compress the spring enough. On mine before I cut them I had to pry (not very hard mind you) them out with a shovel. Had the same problem with the center part hitting the spring perch.


1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake

TKMad
K26-2

34
07-01-2014, 11:30 AM #5
I'm thinking that a spacer on the upper disk would work, as well as cutting an inch off the threaded rod.

Basically the tool is just too long for the W123 springs.
TKMad
07-01-2014, 11:30 AM #5

I'm thinking that a spacer on the upper disk would work, as well as cutting an inch off the threaded rod.

Basically the tool is just too long for the W123 springs.

mbz123
GT2256V

122
07-02-2014, 02:40 AM #6
(07-01-2014, 11:30 AM)TKMad I'm thinking that a spacer on the upper disk would work, as well as cutting an inch off the threaded rod.

Basically the tool is just too long for the W123 springs.

I'd go with the spacer before permaltering a $$ tool. I'd also tether that spring to structural before going at it with a shovel!:eek: It don't have to knock ya upside da head or in the shins to be costly. Just my luck, I'd have some brand new shiny sparkly high dollar-ee doodad I foolishly set down near by and presto chango, next thing I know, I gotta front row seat to witness its destruction! Neato, oh no ):

MBZ123
mbz123
07-02-2014, 02:40 AM #6

(07-01-2014, 11:30 AM)TKMad I'm thinking that a spacer on the upper disk would work, as well as cutting an inch off the threaded rod.

Basically the tool is just too long for the W123 springs.

I'd go with the spacer before permaltering a $$ tool. I'd also tether that spring to structural before going at it with a shovel!:eek: It don't have to knock ya upside da head or in the shins to be costly. Just my luck, I'd have some brand new shiny sparkly high dollar-ee doodad I foolishly set down near by and presto chango, next thing I know, I gotta front row seat to witness its destruction! Neato, oh no ):

MBZ123

Edian727
Dreams of 8mm 617

127
09-07-2014, 01:33 PM #7
I got that thing and it worked 4 me. telescoping part was had fit through hole in top though. i put the lower part 2 or three up from the bottom, and top as high as possible. i also had the car in the air on that corner and the upper ball joint disconnect from the hub.
Edian727
09-07-2014, 01:33 PM #7

I got that thing and it worked 4 me. telescoping part was had fit through hole in top though. i put the lower part 2 or three up from the bottom, and top as high as possible. i also had the car in the air on that corner and the upper ball joint disconnect from the hub.

09-09-2014, 03:16 AM #8
Christ.....

W123 chassis needs the top hole enlarged a bit for the aftermarket spring compressors. This should be well known by now. Only the original KLANN tool fits (but has an enormous price tag). Smal price to pay for your health.

For STRONG springs, like used on - the Turbodiesel - may require to unbolt the shock absorber (AFTER the spring has been fully compressed!!) to gain more room for removal. The shock acts as rebound buffer and limits negative suspension travel.

Strong (=long) springs with 3 dot spring pads can be very troublesome. But usually undoing the shock solves that problem as you can push down the a-arm a bit.

Be carefull! Smile

____________________________________

'88 300CD Turbo Coupé - OM603
DiseaselWeasel
09-09-2014, 03:16 AM #8

Christ.....

W123 chassis needs the top hole enlarged a bit for the aftermarket spring compressors. This should be well known by now. Only the original KLANN tool fits (but has an enormous price tag). Smal price to pay for your health.

For STRONG springs, like used on - the Turbodiesel - may require to unbolt the shock absorber (AFTER the spring has been fully compressed!!) to gain more room for removal. The shock acts as rebound buffer and limits negative suspension travel.

Strong (=long) springs with 3 dot spring pads can be very troublesome. But usually undoing the shock solves that problem as you can push down the a-arm a bit.

Be carefull! Smile


____________________________________

'88 300CD Turbo Coupé - OM603

hooblah
Holset

401
09-09-2014, 05:02 PM #9
What's a spring compressor?

Big Grin

Do it like a man! Place a jack under the lower arm, remove the bolts and drop it down slowly.
hooblah
09-09-2014, 05:02 PM #9

What's a spring compressor?

Big Grin

Do it like a man! Place a jack under the lower arm, remove the bolts and drop it down slowly.

Austincarnut
Holset

298
09-09-2014, 08:55 PM #10
what he said
(09-09-2014, 05:02 PM)hooblah What's a spring compressor?

Big Grin

Do it like a man! Place a jack under the lower arm, remove the bolts and drop it down slowly.
Austincarnut
09-09-2014, 08:55 PM #10

what he said

(09-09-2014, 05:02 PM)hooblah What's a spring compressor?

Big Grin

Do it like a man! Place a jack under the lower arm, remove the bolts and drop it down slowly.

Edian727
Dreams of 8mm 617

127
09-09-2014, 11:29 PM #11
hahaha. that doesnt work. seriously, try it, spring is still compressed wen fully dropped.
I also forgot in my last post that i unbolted the shock on top. springs gotta compress something like 12" to get in, and thats the 240 spring.
Edian727
09-09-2014, 11:29 PM #11

hahaha. that doesnt work. seriously, try it, spring is still compressed wen fully dropped.
I also forgot in my last post that i unbolted the shock on top. springs gotta compress something like 12" to get in, and thats the 240 spring.

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
09-10-2014, 08:58 AM #12
You want to use the tool with a jack under the arm to keep it all straight iirc.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
09-10-2014, 08:58 AM #12

You want to use the tool with a jack under the arm to keep it all straight iirc.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
Users browsing this thread:
 1 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
 1 Guest(s)