IP Timing - Lock Tool Accuracy
IP Timing - Lock Tool Accuracy
I have searched exhaustively through here, and I am curious about folks' experience with the timing lock. (The motor should be at 15 atc.)
Do you guys find you have to adjust the timing much from this spec, (e.g. is it a more of an ideal factory setting (new timing chain, etc, etc) and I will need to drip test to get it "dialed in", after I have it "in the ballpark"); or can I just attach the lines, bleed, and be done?
FYI: My flange/block had chisel marks that were spot on when I reinstalled the IP.
Hey Gang,
I have searched exhaustively through here, and I am curious about folks' experience with the timing lock. (The motor should be at 15 atc.)
Do you guys find you have to adjust the timing much from this spec, (e.g. is it a more of an ideal factory setting (new timing chain, etc, etc) and I will need to drip test to get it "dialed in", after I have it "in the ballpark"); or can I just attach the lines, bleed, and be done?
FYI: My flange/block had chisel marks that were spot on when I reinstalled the IP.
assuming that u are working in a 60X series engine with M inline pump, what u should do:
with the IP in place , any place in the engine to strech the chain, move crankshaft to 14 and half degrees. Install IP sproket holder, or any means u have to hold the sproket in place. Remove IP and install locking pin at the rear ( if the locking position was set at right angle). install the pump in the engine with free space to move either side by the same amount. bolt all in place. remove locking pin and rotate engine at crankshaft by 720º more less til u read 14/15º ATDC. check if the locking tongue at IP is at the center, if yes the engine should run smooth, if not will not run well , repeat operation till u get the IP locking tonge at the center.
From this point on, u might want to tune your IP timing to a fine position, well u have trial and error method, and strboscopic light method.
trial and error, wich is faster and easier: just slight ease 4 IP holding bolts, rotate the pump by the rotating bolt if u have one if not by hand. advance (less than 14º ) rotate IP to the engine side. retard oposite direction. bolt everithing back , run the engine. (a lot faster than drip method)
with stroboscopic light device, well is the same u just put it where u want at first trial. (for that is necessary hand from someone wich know how to operate the particular system)
best regards.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
hello there,
assuming that u are working in a 60X series engine with M inline pump, what u should do:
with the IP in place , any place in the engine to strech the chain, move crankshaft to 14 and half degrees. Install IP sproket holder, or any means u have to hold the sproket in place. Remove IP and install locking pin at the rear ( if the locking position was set at right angle). install the pump in the engine with free space to move either side by the same amount. bolt all in place. remove locking pin and rotate engine at crankshaft by 720º more less til u read 14/15º ATDC. check if the locking tongue at IP is at the center, if yes the engine should run smooth, if not will not run well , repeat operation till u get the IP locking tonge at the center.
From this point on, u might want to tune your IP timing to a fine position, well u have trial and error method, and strboscopic light method.
trial and error, wich is faster and easier: just slight ease 4 IP holding bolts, rotate the pump by the rotating bolt if u have one if not by hand. advance (less than 14º ) rotate IP to the engine side. retard oposite direction. bolt everithing back , run the engine. (a lot faster than drip method)
with stroboscopic light device, well is the same u just put it where u want at first trial. (for that is necessary hand from someone wich know how to operate the particular system)
best regards.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
I'm not sure how exact this method is but, it's been good enough for me.
Of coarse this is to check timing and adjust it. Not to install the IP.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
I have been using a bore scope to look at the locking tab. Wrap some tape around the end of the scope and you have a snug fit in the bore. If you do that and don't push it in too far, you can set the monitor where you can watch for the tab as you rotate the engine.
I'm not sure how exact this method is but, it's been good enough for me.
Of coarse this is to check timing and adjust it. Not to install the IP.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
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