STD Tuning Engine prechambers mods?

prechambers mods?

prechambers mods?

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
 
Pages (3): 1 2 3 Next
Tito
Holset

354
06-01-2014, 04:05 PM #1
Hey guys. I was brainstorming in my mind about modding the pre chambers. especially the outflow of the chambers. Entirely deleting the "bulb" or drill extra holes. I can imagine it improving gas flow, when you're at 3 bar and +5500 rpm it kinda looks like a restriction. I can also see it give to much "oempf" to the piston at once, giving them some serious "piston slap". I don't know how to describe it, or the English word but i mean when the piston goes upwards on the right side on the cilinder and bangs agains the left side when going down. I can already hear this on my engine and some STD on youtube. I mean that nailing sound.

So, whats the reason why it's restricted? Could there be any improvement? and would it harm the engine? I'm just curious...
Tito
06-01-2014, 04:05 PM #1

Hey guys. I was brainstorming in my mind about modding the pre chambers. especially the outflow of the chambers. Entirely deleting the "bulb" or drill extra holes. I can imagine it improving gas flow, when you're at 3 bar and +5500 rpm it kinda looks like a restriction. I can also see it give to much "oempf" to the piston at once, giving them some serious "piston slap". I don't know how to describe it, or the English word but i mean when the piston goes upwards on the right side on the cilinder and bangs agains the left side when going down. I can already hear this on my engine and some STD on youtube. I mean that nailing sound.

So, whats the reason why it's restricted? Could there be any improvement? and would it harm the engine? I'm just curious...

raysorenson
Superturbo

1,162
06-01-2014, 06:37 PM #2
There is an extensive, but maybe not exhaustive discussion of this in the archives. Search it up, or maybe some kinder soul than i will link you to it.

The only possible explanation for the positive results seen with hogging out the prechamber holes is that thermodynamic efficiency is increased at high loads. There's lots of heat moved from the prechamber to the cooling system, which is waste. Direct injected engines don't have this heat sink problem, and they're more efficient. Hope this helps:-)
raysorenson
06-01-2014, 06:37 PM #2

There is an extensive, but maybe not exhaustive discussion of this in the archives. Search it up, or maybe some kinder soul than i will link you to it.

The only possible explanation for the positive results seen with hogging out the prechamber holes is that thermodynamic efficiency is increased at high loads. There's lots of heat moved from the prechamber to the cooling system, which is waste. Direct injected engines don't have this heat sink problem, and they're more efficient. Hope this helps:-)

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
06-01-2014, 07:30 PM #3
Jeemu and several other engine builders have stated that making the holes bigger helps a lot. You can't cut the end off, it would eliminate the whole design behind an IDI. You can if you replace stock injectors with direct injection units, but that involves changing pistons and is a very complicated process.

Several members having modded prechambers with success. Captain America being one of them, I am going to do this mod in the near future

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
06-01-2014, 07:30 PM #3

Jeemu and several other engine builders have stated that making the holes bigger helps a lot. You can't cut the end off, it would eliminate the whole design behind an IDI. You can if you replace stock injectors with direct injection units, but that involves changing pistons and is a very complicated process.

Several members having modded prechambers with success. Captain America being one of them, I am going to do this mod in the near future


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

led-panzer
Holset

541
06-01-2014, 08:16 PM #4
Personally I've heard enough positive reviews on this that I'm going to try it. Maybe a ~20% enlargement of all holes.

MFSuper90, do you have prechamber removal tools?

1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
06-01-2014, 08:16 PM #4

Personally I've heard enough positive reviews on this that I'm going to try it. Maybe a ~20% enlargement of all holes.

MFSuper90, do you have prechamber removal tools?


1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake

Tito
Holset

354
06-02-2014, 05:53 AM #5
Intresting! I thought of it making the engine better. But the heat inefficiency seems kinda strange. Full load on a idi engine always makes more heat in my opinion. The combustion takes place in the head. And at full load with black smoke there's no air to isolate the heat. Making the engine run hotter. I thought giving the prechamber more flow it would direct the gasses to the cylinder, where there's more air for the isolation.
Tito
06-02-2014, 05:53 AM #5

Intresting! I thought of it making the engine better. But the heat inefficiency seems kinda strange. Full load on a idi engine always makes more heat in my opinion. The combustion takes place in the head. And at full load with black smoke there's no air to isolate the heat. Making the engine run hotter. I thought giving the prechamber more flow it would direct the gasses to the cylinder, where there's more air for the isolation.

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
06-02-2014, 07:14 AM #6
CAPTAIN AMERICA GET IN HERE

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...lame-Front

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...-s-82-300D
This post was last modified: 06-02-2014, 07:16 AM by Simpler=Better.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-02-2014, 07:14 AM #6

CAPTAIN AMERICA GET IN HERE

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...lame-Front

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...-s-82-300D


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

raysorenson
Superturbo

1,162
06-02-2014, 08:51 PM #7
(06-02-2014, 05:53 AM)Tito Intresting! I thought of it making the engine better. But the heat inefficiency seems kinda strange. Full load on a idi engine always makes more heat in my opinion. The combustion takes place in the head. And at full load with black smoke there's no air to isolate the heat. Making the engine run hotter. I thought giving the prechamber more flow it would direct the gasses to the cylinder, where there's more air for the isolation.

SAE #790039 The lower efficiency of the indirect-injection diesel engine, with respect to the direct injection type, is due to additional heat transfer from the combustion chamber, gas pumping between chambers, later injection timing and a different burning rate schedule.

It stands to reason that, if you don't add air, you don't add fuel and there wasn't a lot of smoke before the prechamber mods, the only place the power is coming from is an increase in efficiency. Less heat from combustion is moving to the cooling system and is instead being used to push the piston down the bore.
raysorenson
06-02-2014, 08:51 PM #7

(06-02-2014, 05:53 AM)Tito Intresting! I thought of it making the engine better. But the heat inefficiency seems kinda strange. Full load on a idi engine always makes more heat in my opinion. The combustion takes place in the head. And at full load with black smoke there's no air to isolate the heat. Making the engine run hotter. I thought giving the prechamber more flow it would direct the gasses to the cylinder, where there's more air for the isolation.

SAE #790039 The lower efficiency of the indirect-injection diesel engine, with respect to the direct injection type, is due to additional heat transfer from the combustion chamber, gas pumping between chambers, later injection timing and a different burning rate schedule.

It stands to reason that, if you don't add air, you don't add fuel and there wasn't a lot of smoke before the prechamber mods, the only place the power is coming from is an increase in efficiency. Less heat from combustion is moving to the cooling system and is instead being used to push the piston down the bore.

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
06-03-2014, 02:28 PM #8
(06-01-2014, 08:16 PM)led-panzer MFSuper90, do you have prechamber removal tools?

Yup, I made a tool to remove them. I removed a set in a blown engine I had, worked pretty well.

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
06-03-2014, 02:28 PM #8

(06-01-2014, 08:16 PM)led-panzer MFSuper90, do you have prechamber removal tools?

Yup, I made a tool to remove them. I removed a set in a blown engine I had, worked pretty well.


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

Tito
Holset

354
06-03-2014, 03:49 PM #9
Well, i'm definably going to try this. Thinking about a 20~30% bigger holes. It's for a om606 which I want to push 500hp. Also going to flow the head one of these days. I'm curious about the result. However I think I never get to notice it since I've never driven the stock pre chambers.

Edit, How about drilling one hole straight down?
This post was last modified: 06-03-2014, 04:29 PM by Tito.
Tito
06-03-2014, 03:49 PM #9

Well, i'm definably going to try this. Thinking about a 20~30% bigger holes. It's for a om606 which I want to push 500hp. Also going to flow the head one of these days. I'm curious about the result. However I think I never get to notice it since I've never driven the stock pre chambers.

Edit, How about drilling one hole straight down?

led-panzer
Holset

541
06-03-2014, 08:30 PM #10
(06-03-2014, 02:28 PM)MFSuper90
(06-01-2014, 08:16 PM)led-panzer MFSuper90, do you have prechamber removal tools?

Yup, I made a tool to remove them. I removed a set in a blown engine I had, worked pretty well.

Hmmm... Maybe we can work out a rental deal Big Grin

I'm going to take mine out of my 85.

1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
06-03-2014, 08:30 PM #10

(06-03-2014, 02:28 PM)MFSuper90
(06-01-2014, 08:16 PM)led-panzer MFSuper90, do you have prechamber removal tools?

Yup, I made a tool to remove them. I removed a set in a blown engine I had, worked pretty well.

Hmmm... Maybe we can work out a rental deal Big Grin

I'm going to take mine out of my 85.


1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
06-03-2014, 09:35 PM #11
(06-03-2014, 03:49 PM)Tito Well, i'm definably going to try this. Thinking about a 20~30% bigger holes. It's for a om606 which I want to push 500hp. Also going to flow the head one of these days. I'm curious about the result. However I think I never get to notice it since I've never driven the stock pre chambers.

Edit, How about drilling one hole straight down?

I don't think id do that, the holes are patterned that way to spread the flame evenly over the piston, kind of like what the bowl does on a direct injection engine

And led, we can probably work something out
This post was last modified: 06-03-2014, 09:36 PM by MFSuper90.

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
06-03-2014, 09:35 PM #11

(06-03-2014, 03:49 PM)Tito Well, i'm definably going to try this. Thinking about a 20~30% bigger holes. It's for a om606 which I want to push 500hp. Also going to flow the head one of these days. I'm curious about the result. However I think I never get to notice it since I've never driven the stock pre chambers.

Edit, How about drilling one hole straight down?

I don't think id do that, the holes are patterned that way to spread the flame evenly over the piston, kind of like what the bowl does on a direct injection engine

And led, we can probably work something out


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
06-03-2014, 10:22 PM #12
I'll summon the captain

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-03-2014, 10:22 PM #12

I'll summon the captain


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
06-03-2014, 10:52 PM #13
3 front holes to .156" rear two and bottom to .125”

Stock (broken) 1985 prechamber on the left and big baller Simpler=Better ported chamber on the right

   

So I have turned the fuel up (torque capsule) a lot! And also an unknown amount.... My EGTs only max at about 900 so I have much moar room to go I think. Also I might add that I'm making 14-15 psi with my Garrett w/ 60 trim compressor. Inter cooler not yet operational and Injection timing max advanced (didn't check what it actually is)

My 300 rips, and my transmission is dying (like most I guess) haha. She will be getting a AX-15 when money permits. Back to the subject though, I have been running this setup since beginning of February and even though Mr. OM616 recommended not to drill the bottom hole, we did anyway haha. Just on the fact that we were going for broke, kinda. I didn't want to stay too safe and have to pull, drill, ream, deburr, twice. My OM617 runs flawlessly!!!! I've been to the desert where I've been up hills that $40,000 four wheel drives couldn't make. I've pulled an old broken down F150 10 miles to my shop that research shows weighs about 5000lbs with no issues. It amazes people haha. And it starts cold with a flick of the ignition switch after the glow plugs have been on for 5 seconds.

Edit: she does have a bit of a power band.... 3k RPM and above is where she makes the most horse power. Still makes torque from 2k and above. I've I climb a local hill, well over 7% grade! I can easily make full boost by 2300 rpm due to turbo, fuel, and pre chamber mods.

Feels to me that she is always hungry for fuel, where as before it couldn't breath, could move the air.
This post was last modified: 06-03-2014, 10:58 PM by Captain America.


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
06-03-2014, 10:52 PM #13

3 front holes to .156" rear two and bottom to .125”

Stock (broken) 1985 prechamber on the left and big baller Simpler=Better ported chamber on the right

   

So I have turned the fuel up (torque capsule) a lot! And also an unknown amount.... My EGTs only max at about 900 so I have much moar room to go I think. Also I might add that I'm making 14-15 psi with my Garrett w/ 60 trim compressor. Inter cooler not yet operational and Injection timing max advanced (didn't check what it actually is)

My 300 rips, and my transmission is dying (like most I guess) haha. She will be getting a AX-15 when money permits. Back to the subject though, I have been running this setup since beginning of February and even though Mr. OM616 recommended not to drill the bottom hole, we did anyway haha. Just on the fact that we were going for broke, kinda. I didn't want to stay too safe and have to pull, drill, ream, deburr, twice. My OM617 runs flawlessly!!!! I've been to the desert where I've been up hills that $40,000 four wheel drives couldn't make. I've pulled an old broken down F150 10 miles to my shop that research shows weighs about 5000lbs with no issues. It amazes people haha. And it starts cold with a flick of the ignition switch after the glow plugs have been on for 5 seconds.


Edit: she does have a bit of a power band.... 3k RPM and above is where she makes the most horse power. Still makes torque from 2k and above. I've I climb a local hill, well over 7% grade! I can easily make full boost by 2300 rpm due to turbo, fuel, and pre chamber mods.

Feels to me that she is always hungry for fuel, where as before it couldn't breath, could move the air.



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

baldur
Fast

505
06-04-2014, 05:44 AM #14
Well consider this. At TDC, how much of the combustion chamber volume is inside the prechamber?

Baldur Gislason

baldur
06-04-2014, 05:44 AM #14

Well consider this. At TDC, how much of the combustion chamber volume is inside the prechamber?


Baldur Gislason

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
06-04-2014, 08:56 AM #15
(06-04-2014, 05:44 AM)baldur Well consider this. At TDC, how much of the combustion chamber volume is inside the prechamber?

Since the pistons in a 617 stick up above the deck, and the head is flat-most of the volume is in the prechamber. Makes sense that this would speed things up a bit.

Warning to anyone trying this-spend the money on nice reamers. They're hard as hell. Use lots of oil and go slow.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-04-2014, 08:56 AM #15

(06-04-2014, 05:44 AM)baldur Well consider this. At TDC, how much of the combustion chamber volume is inside the prechamber?

Since the pistons in a 617 stick up above the deck, and the head is flat-most of the volume is in the prechamber. Makes sense that this would speed things up a bit.

Warning to anyone trying this-spend the money on nice reamers. They're hard as hell. Use lots of oil and go slow.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
06-04-2014, 09:41 AM #16
Were captain's new or just old ones cleaned up?

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-04-2014, 09:41 AM #16

Were captain's new or just old ones cleaned up?


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
06-04-2014, 11:15 AM #17
(06-04-2014, 09:41 AM)sassparilla_kid Were captain's new or just old ones cleaned up?

Oldies, he did a great job cleaning them though

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-04-2014, 11:15 AM #17

(06-04-2014, 09:41 AM)sassparilla_kid Were captain's new or just old ones cleaned up?

Oldies, he did a great job cleaning them though


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
06-04-2014, 03:45 PM #18
(06-04-2014, 11:15 AM)Simpler=Better
(06-04-2014, 09:41 AM)sassparilla_kid Were captain's new or just old ones cleaned up?

Oldies, he did a great job cleaning them though

So if I blast mine and clean them up, would you entertain the idea of reaming them like capt's? The only stipulation being I wouldn't want the bottom hole done.
And of course I would pay you for your time and effort.

I bought a reamer with the intentions of doing it myself, but bought a tapered one because I am an idiot. Seems more reasonable to pay someone than buy a tool that I will only use once Big Grin

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
06-04-2014, 03:45 PM #18

(06-04-2014, 11:15 AM)Simpler=Better
(06-04-2014, 09:41 AM)sassparilla_kid Were captain's new or just old ones cleaned up?

Oldies, he did a great job cleaning them though

So if I blast mine and clean them up, would you entertain the idea of reaming them like capt's? The only stipulation being I wouldn't want the bottom hole done.
And of course I would pay you for your time and effort.

I bought a reamer with the intentions of doing it myself, but bought a tapered one because I am an idiot. Seems more reasonable to pay someone than buy a tool that I will only use once Big Grin


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
06-05-2014, 07:38 AM #19
(06-04-2014, 03:45 PM)MFSuper90
(06-04-2014, 11:15 AM)Simpler=Better
(06-04-2014, 09:41 AM)sassparilla_kid Were captain's new or just old ones cleaned up?

Oldies, he did a great job cleaning them though

So if I blast mine and clean them up, would you entertain the idea of reaming them like capt's? The only stipulation being I wouldn't want the bottom hole done.
And of course I would pay you for your time and effort.

I bought a reamer with the intentions of doing it myself, but bought a tapered one because I am an idiot. Seems more reasonable to pay someone than buy a tool that I will only use once Big Grin

It's not too hard, just run the tapered reamer on a slow drill speed and keep it bathed on oil. Keeping the drill square to the hole is critical.

To maintain the same depth each time paint a mark on the reamer after you do the first one
This post was last modified: 06-05-2014, 07:38 AM by Simpler=Better.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-05-2014, 07:38 AM #19

(06-04-2014, 03:45 PM)MFSuper90
(06-04-2014, 11:15 AM)Simpler=Better
(06-04-2014, 09:41 AM)sassparilla_kid Were captain's new or just old ones cleaned up?

Oldies, he did a great job cleaning them though

So if I blast mine and clean them up, would you entertain the idea of reaming them like capt's? The only stipulation being I wouldn't want the bottom hole done.
And of course I would pay you for your time and effort.

I bought a reamer with the intentions of doing it myself, but bought a tapered one because I am an idiot. Seems more reasonable to pay someone than buy a tool that I will only use once Big Grin

It's not too hard, just run the tapered reamer on a slow drill speed and keep it bathed on oil. Keeping the drill square to the hole is critical.

To maintain the same depth each time paint a mark on the reamer after you do the first one


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
06-05-2014, 09:07 AM #20
Time to bust out the lathe!!! Lol

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-05-2014, 09:07 AM #20

Time to bust out the lathe!!! Lol


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
06-05-2014, 09:23 AM #21
(06-05-2014, 09:07 AM)sassparilla_kid Time to bust out the lathe!!! Lol

What are you going to do with the lathe?

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
06-05-2014, 09:23 AM #21

(06-05-2014, 09:07 AM)sassparilla_kid Time to bust out the lathe!!! Lol

What are you going to do with the lathe?


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

Duncansport
Holset

526
06-05-2014, 09:29 AM #22
(06-05-2014, 09:23 AM)MFSuper90
(06-05-2014, 09:07 AM)sassparilla_kid Time to bust out the lathe!!! Lol

What are you going to do with the lathe?

Tear your hand off while trying to rheam out the PC's clearly
Duncansport
06-05-2014, 09:29 AM #22

(06-05-2014, 09:23 AM)MFSuper90
(06-05-2014, 09:07 AM)sassparilla_kid Time to bust out the lathe!!! Lol

What are you going to do with the lathe?

Tear your hand off while trying to rheam out the PC's clearly

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
06-05-2014, 09:32 AM #23
(06-05-2014, 09:29 AM)Duncansport
(06-05-2014, 09:23 AM)MFSuper90
(06-05-2014, 09:07 AM)sassparilla_kid Time to bust out the lathe!!! Lol

What are you going to do with the lathe?

Tear your hand off while trying to rheam out the PC's clearly

lmao, I was kind of thinking the same thing Tongue

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
06-05-2014, 09:32 AM #23

(06-05-2014, 09:29 AM)Duncansport
(06-05-2014, 09:23 AM)MFSuper90
(06-05-2014, 09:07 AM)sassparilla_kid Time to bust out the lathe!!! Lol

What are you going to do with the lathe?

Tear your hand off while trying to rheam out the PC's clearly

lmao, I was kind of thinking the same thing Tongue


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
06-05-2014, 11:17 AM #24
Well, the hole diameter in the injector seat can be opened up as well so that part is done on a lathe. If you were good with a 4jaw and angle blocks I guess you could jig it up...would take 500 years though

EDIT: hole diameter in the injector seat, not burn tube. my bad.
This post was last modified: 06-05-2014, 02:45 PM by Simpler=Better.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-05-2014, 11:17 AM #24

Well, the hole diameter in the injector seat can be opened up as well so that part is done on a lathe. If you were good with a 4jaw and angle blocks I guess you could jig it up...would take 500 years though

EDIT: hole diameter in the injector seat, not burn tube. my bad.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

OM616
10mm MW

572
06-05-2014, 12:05 PM #25
(06-05-2014, 11:17 AM)Simpler=Better Well, the burn tube can be opened up as well so that part is done on a lathe.

I would not do that as I for see the thinner tube walls cracking and the burn tube breaking off.

The hole diameter in the injector seat however can be increased (where the injector nozzle sprays fuel). MB put out a bulletin a long time ago, one of the things that they recommended to do to reduce smoke was to increase the injector end hole diameter. They also said to lower the seat injector seat in the PC, but I forget the exact dimension, I got a little too frisky and cut my first ones too deep and the PC separated when I torque the injector.

The next time I do a PC, I am going to machine a slot across the three burn holes making a mouth so to speak.
OM616
06-05-2014, 12:05 PM #25

(06-05-2014, 11:17 AM)Simpler=Better Well, the burn tube can be opened up as well so that part is done on a lathe.

I would not do that as I for see the thinner tube walls cracking and the burn tube breaking off.

The hole diameter in the injector seat however can be increased (where the injector nozzle sprays fuel). MB put out a bulletin a long time ago, one of the things that they recommended to do to reduce smoke was to increase the injector end hole diameter. They also said to lower the seat injector seat in the PC, but I forget the exact dimension, I got a little too frisky and cut my first ones too deep and the PC separated when I torque the injector.

The next time I do a PC, I am going to machine a slot across the three burn holes making a mouth so to speak.

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
06-05-2014, 02:40 PM #26
Idk, I was barely awake. I forgot all the holes are on the sides lol

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-05-2014, 02:40 PM #26

Idk, I was barely awake. I forgot all the holes are on the sides lol


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
06-06-2014, 11:15 PM #27
(06-05-2014, 12:05 PM)OM616
(06-05-2014, 11:17 AM)Simpler=Better Well, the burn tube can be opened up as well so that part is done on a lathe.
The next time I do a PC, I am going to machine a slot across the three burn holes making a mouth so to speak.

That is an interesting idea, sir. Like to see how that works out!


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
06-06-2014, 11:15 PM #27

(06-05-2014, 12:05 PM)OM616
(06-05-2014, 11:17 AM)Simpler=Better Well, the burn tube can be opened up as well so that part is done on a lathe.
The next time I do a PC, I am going to machine a slot across the three burn holes making a mouth so to speak.

That is an interesting idea, sir. Like to see how that works out!



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

barrote
Superturbo

1,627
06-08-2014, 01:19 PM #28
hy there,
in my set up i will reopen the holes a bit, from 8 holes at 2,2 mm , i will have 8 X 2,5 mm, the botom one is 1,5mm and will stay the same for the moment. (606.04 pre cups). the pre cups marked 606.02 usually found in N/A engines are 8x2.1mm and botom hole at 1.3 or 1.4. , from this differnce one can understand that increasing fueling , involuntarly needs increasing the holes área or nr of holes etc.
taking acount the laws wich rule flow, increasing the holes beon the área of te neck hole will produce any significant gain, at least thats my bet. since the neck diameter is not more than 10mm (just guessing) i can´t see any gain using a hole wider than 2.50 , to 2,75 mm.
i´m trying the 2.5 mm .
let u know my findings.
any how, would be interesting to know if someone had opened the holes more than 2.5mm with positive results .
regards

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
barrote
06-08-2014, 01:19 PM #28

hy there,
in my set up i will reopen the holes a bit, from 8 holes at 2,2 mm , i will have 8 X 2,5 mm, the botom one is 1,5mm and will stay the same for the moment. (606.04 pre cups). the pre cups marked 606.02 usually found in N/A engines are 8x2.1mm and botom hole at 1.3 or 1.4. , from this differnce one can understand that increasing fueling , involuntarly needs increasing the holes área or nr of holes etc.
taking acount the laws wich rule flow, increasing the holes beon the área of te neck hole will produce any significant gain, at least thats my bet. since the neck diameter is not more than 10mm (just guessing) i can´t see any gain using a hole wider than 2.50 , to 2,75 mm.
i´m trying the 2.5 mm .
let u know my findings.
any how, would be interesting to know if someone had opened the holes more than 2.5mm with positive results .
regards


FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

Tito
Holset

354
06-09-2014, 02:33 AM #29
Thank you guys. Very useful info here. I'm letting you guys know how it will work out.
Tito
06-09-2014, 02:33 AM #29

Thank you guys. Very useful info here. I'm letting you guys know how it will work out.

Tito
Holset

354
12-06-2014, 07:34 AM #30
So, I finaly started drilling them... It's the worst job ever. Big Grin

First tried to drill with a 3mm hss drill bit. Took about an hour for one hole. Then found out could better use a grinded stone drill bit

[Image: E4EE244E-B622-4E58-93DE-6EE8AA0143A1.jpg]

[Image: BB0B0641-115F-4B15-B6CE-1F49C7DBEAAB.jpg]

If anyone is also trying this, rember to take out the glow plugs Big Grin

[Image: 6651335A-5FAD-4E83-88CB-7408883AE31D.jpg]

Only problem I'm running into now is that everytime I get to the end of the hole, the drill bit grips and snaps off. So I'm drilling them till the last half mm or something and I'll need to find out how to drill the last bit.
Tito
12-06-2014, 07:34 AM #30

So, I finaly started drilling them... It's the worst job ever. Big Grin

First tried to drill with a 3mm hss drill bit. Took about an hour for one hole. Then found out could better use a grinded stone drill bit

[Image: E4EE244E-B622-4E58-93DE-6EE8AA0143A1.jpg]

[Image: BB0B0641-115F-4B15-B6CE-1F49C7DBEAAB.jpg]

If anyone is also trying this, rember to take out the glow plugs Big Grin

[Image: 6651335A-5FAD-4E83-88CB-7408883AE31D.jpg]

Only problem I'm running into now is that everytime I get to the end of the hole, the drill bit grips and snaps off. So I'm drilling them till the last half mm or something and I'll need to find out how to drill the last bit.

hooblah
Holset

401
12-06-2014, 12:47 PM #31
Can you get your hands on a 3mm reamer?

And have you tried increasing the drill speed?
This post was last modified: 12-06-2014, 12:54 PM by hooblah.
hooblah
12-06-2014, 12:47 PM #31

Can you get your hands on a 3mm reamer?

And have you tried increasing the drill speed?

Tito
Holset

354
12-06-2014, 12:57 PM #32
Haven't tried both... Going to try a reamer
Tito
12-06-2014, 12:57 PM #32

Haven't tried both... Going to try a reamer

EDH_Performance
Holset

537
12-06-2014, 07:14 PM #33
Have you tried to heat them red hot, then drill them? Big Grin
EDH_Performance
12-06-2014, 07:14 PM #33

Have you tried to heat them red hot, then drill them? Big Grin

barrote
Superturbo

1,627
12-08-2014, 02:14 PM #34
HSS cr 0.7 drill bits , makes wonders . i use the brand BERNER germany . buy some 3 or 4. one lasts only one hole, then Sharp it do another one. in one hour is possible to drill all of them Smile.
the best device is the electric screw driver( or the hell it is called in english) in high speed leave only 5mm of drill bit ouside, like that u can spare the bits.
i did 3 mm and 2mm at center. i did not tried them yet.
bonne chance.
PS: drill at dry conditions.

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
barrote
12-08-2014, 02:14 PM #34

HSS cr 0.7 drill bits , makes wonders . i use the brand BERNER germany . buy some 3 or 4. one lasts only one hole, then Sharp it do another one. in one hour is possible to drill all of them Smile.
the best device is the electric screw driver( or the hell it is called in english) in high speed leave only 5mm of drill bit ouside, like that u can spare the bits.
i did 3 mm and 2mm at center. i did not tried them yet.
bonne chance.
PS: drill at dry conditions.


FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

hooblah
Holset

401
12-08-2014, 05:13 PM #35
How about cobalt drill bits?
hooblah
12-08-2014, 05:13 PM #35

How about cobalt drill bits?

swatmugga
GT2256V

130
12-08-2014, 05:59 PM #36
Hey Tito

Why did you made the holes so big? I don't think that was a good idea. What were your thoughts?
You tripled the cross section of the holes!
swatmugga
12-08-2014, 05:59 PM #36

Hey Tito

Why did you made the holes so big? I don't think that was a good idea. What were your thoughts?
You tripled the cross section of the holes!

EDH_Performance
Holset

537
12-08-2014, 07:24 PM #37
I think they are like butter to drill in, if you heat them upSmile
All modified prechamber pictures from jeemu is red glovingSmile
EDH_Performance
12-08-2014, 07:24 PM #37

I think they are like butter to drill in, if you heat them upSmile
All modified prechamber pictures from jeemu is red glovingSmile

barrote
Superturbo

1,627
12-09-2014, 09:16 AM #38
(12-08-2014, 05:13 PM)hooblah How about cobalt drill bits?
HSS Cr 0.7 , alias cobalt drill bits Wink

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
barrote
12-09-2014, 09:16 AM #38

(12-08-2014, 05:13 PM)hooblah How about cobalt drill bits?
HSS Cr 0.7 , alias cobalt drill bits Wink


FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

Tito
Holset

354
12-09-2014, 03:06 PM #39
Cobalt drill bits... I guess they don't come from the diy store? Big Grin I used 5 stone drill bits, which where done after drilling 3 chambers, but mainly because the end gripped and only the tip is hardened. So it could pay off buying a cobalt drill bit.

(12-08-2014, 05:59 PM)swatmugga Hey Tito

Why did you made the holes so big? I don't think that was a good idea. What were your thoughts?
You tripled the cross section of the holes!

The surface area hasn't even doubled. (2.2/2)^2*pi=3.8 and (3.0/2)^2*pi=7
Of course 7*8(number of holes)=56mm^2
I don't know the neck diameter... But guessing by the thickness of the wall it's indeed about 10mm. Giving a surface area of 78.5mm^2.
I didn't count the middle hole. So I should be good.
Furthermore I just trying. Maybe it doesn't work at all Big Grin anyone who knows the size Jeemu drilled?

Heating the tip red hot is a problem because I only have a simple butane torch at work.
This post was last modified: 12-09-2014, 03:50 PM by Tito.
Tito
12-09-2014, 03:06 PM #39

Cobalt drill bits... I guess they don't come from the diy store? Big Grin I used 5 stone drill bits, which where done after drilling 3 chambers, but mainly because the end gripped and only the tip is hardened. So it could pay off buying a cobalt drill bit.

(12-08-2014, 05:59 PM)swatmugga Hey Tito

Why did you made the holes so big? I don't think that was a good idea. What were your thoughts?
You tripled the cross section of the holes!

The surface area hasn't even doubled. (2.2/2)^2*pi=3.8 and (3.0/2)^2*pi=7
Of course 7*8(number of holes)=56mm^2
I don't know the neck diameter... But guessing by the thickness of the wall it's indeed about 10mm. Giving a surface area of 78.5mm^2.
I didn't count the middle hole. So I should be good.
Furthermore I just trying. Maybe it doesn't work at all Big Grin anyone who knows the size Jeemu drilled?

Heating the tip red hot is a problem because I only have a simple butane torch at work.

barrote
Superturbo

1,627
12-09-2014, 04:15 PM #40
hy there,
a pack of 10 x3mm HSS Cr 0.7 drill bits (those cobalt) maybe cost 15€ i dont think the issue is the cost. and amasing is that the drill bit u can Sharp. use again and again til the bit is over. i went through the same usually ending the hole is tricky thats why u shoul use a hand driller.
the inside hole is 6,7mm on the pre cups marked 606 02.
heating the PC wont do any good, what one could do is heating to where we can distemper the metal and after doing the holes heat treat them again for hardning . something is not so easy to do. simply cause we dont know the cokking temp.
regards

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
barrote
12-09-2014, 04:15 PM #40

hy there,
a pack of 10 x3mm HSS Cr 0.7 drill bits (those cobalt) maybe cost 15€ i dont think the issue is the cost. and amasing is that the drill bit u can Sharp. use again and again til the bit is over. i went through the same usually ending the hole is tricky thats why u shoul use a hand driller.
the inside hole is 6,7mm on the pre cups marked 606 02.
heating the PC wont do any good, what one could do is heating to where we can distemper the metal and after doing the holes heat treat them again for hardning . something is not so easy to do. simply cause we dont know the cokking temp.
regards


FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

Hercules
GT2559V

219
12-10-2014, 06:42 PM #41
Colbalt drill bits work the best, flexible but still hard. Carbide too brittle for smaller holes. I usually use only one drill bit per hole, except the back holes ,hole too close to drilled size,must sharpen bits, small size bits brake easy. Do not need to heat prechambers, Have done eight sets . Using hand drill.

Hole size,exiting holes end of prechamber, 6% larger works best for me.Tryed 8% larger, performance fell off ,tryed 10% still less, engine less responsive. Test grounds , large mountain 6-8% grade, going from 7,000-9,000ft. Best performance,exiting hole area 2x transfer tube size. Injection nozzles,checked, cleaned ,set . Injection timing 26btc,valves checked, trying to be sure testing was accurate . What was less with larger holes,engine was less smooth,longer to respond to throttle,slower to pull grade. Hope this helps. What was my speed on this grade ,65mph in high gear with more on pedal,could still go faster. 82yr. 300sd,2.88 gears,16x265 tires.
This post was last modified: 12-10-2014, 07:29 PM by Hercules.
Hercules
12-10-2014, 06:42 PM #41

Colbalt drill bits work the best, flexible but still hard. Carbide too brittle for smaller holes. I usually use only one drill bit per hole, except the back holes ,hole too close to drilled size,must sharpen bits, small size bits brake easy. Do not need to heat prechambers, Have done eight sets . Using hand drill.


Hole size,exiting holes end of prechamber, 6% larger works best for me.Tryed 8% larger, performance fell off ,tryed 10% still less, engine less responsive. Test grounds , large mountain 6-8% grade, going from 7,000-9,000ft. Best performance,exiting hole area 2x transfer tube size. Injection nozzles,checked, cleaned ,set . Injection timing 26btc,valves checked, trying to be sure testing was accurate . What was less with larger holes,engine was less smooth,longer to respond to throttle,slower to pull grade. Hope this helps. What was my speed on this grade ,65mph in high gear with more on pedal,could still go faster. 82yr. 300sd,2.88 gears,16x265 tires.

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
12-10-2014, 10:12 PM #42
Captain disagrees:


[Image: IMG_20140111_101408.jpg]

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-10-2014, 10:12 PM #42

Captain disagrees:


[Image: IMG_20140111_101408.jpg]


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

Tito
Holset

354
12-11-2014, 09:22 AM #43
That looks awesome Big Grin

Time for some cobalt drill bits. I'll just order them online somewhere.
Tito
12-11-2014, 09:22 AM #43

That looks awesome Big Grin

Time for some cobalt drill bits. I'll just order them online somewhere.

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
12-11-2014, 08:18 PM #44
What are the stock hole sizes? And Simpler I think Hercules is saying +6%> +8%> +10%> stock in terms of performance

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
12-11-2014, 08:18 PM #44

What are the stock hole sizes? And Simpler I think Hercules is saying +6%> +8%> +10%> stock in terms of performance


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

raidaru
TA 0301

65
12-12-2014, 04:43 AM #45
if u don't make a dyno/EGT test before/after PC mode, people will never know if it's really worth the headache drilling the PC's...............
This post was last modified: 12-12-2014, 04:46 AM by raidaru.

lost in the diesel universe.............
raidaru
12-12-2014, 04:43 AM #45

if u don't make a dyno/EGT test before/after PC mode, people will never know if it's really worth the headache drilling the PC's...............


lost in the diesel universe.............

Tito
Holset

354
12-12-2014, 06:57 AM #46
True, true....

I can use the dyno at my job. I'm actually also curious. Switching prechambers is easy. Take off the valve cover, remove injectors an glow plugs and I can just pull them out. If I'll find stock prechambers somehow...
Tito
12-12-2014, 06:57 AM #46

True, true....

I can use the dyno at my job. I'm actually also curious. Switching prechambers is easy. Take off the valve cover, remove injectors an glow plugs and I can just pull them out. If I'll find stock prechambers somehow...

12-12-2014, 10:50 AM #47
Next step: direct injection.

____________________________________

'88 300CD Turbo Coupé - OM603
DiseaselWeasel
12-12-2014, 10:50 AM #47

Next step: direct injection.


____________________________________

'88 300CD Turbo Coupé - OM603

Duncansport
Holset

526
12-12-2014, 11:26 AM #48
(12-12-2014, 10:50 AM)DiseaselWeasel Next step: direct injection.

+1 on this
Duncansport
12-12-2014, 11:26 AM #48

(12-12-2014, 10:50 AM)DiseaselWeasel Next step: direct injection.

+1 on this

barrote
Superturbo

1,627
12-12-2014, 03:32 PM #49
yep ,
i thought about the same, thing is where to find a VE 5 full mechanichal. or lucas i belive.
injectors are piece of cake.
in europe the w210 E290 comes with a 602 DI lucas electrical pump.
if i could lay my hands on a VE5 mechanical with a MB flange ..... i´m dreaming boysSmileSmile
regards
ps: i have my pre cups ready , just missing the special tool to remove them. Sad

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
barrote
12-12-2014, 03:32 PM #49

yep ,
i thought about the same, thing is where to find a VE 5 full mechanichal. or lucas i belive.
injectors are piece of cake.
in europe the w210 E290 comes with a 602 DI lucas electrical pump.
if i could lay my hands on a VE5 mechanical with a MB flange ..... i´m dreaming boysSmileSmile
regards
ps: i have my pre cups ready , just missing the special tool to remove them. Sad


FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

Tito
Holset

354
12-13-2014, 11:46 AM #50
(12-12-2014, 03:32 PM)barrote yep ,
i thought about the same, thing is where to find a VE 5 full mechanichal. or lucas i belive.
injectors are piece of cake.
in europe the w210 E290 comes with a 602 DI lucas electrical pump.
if i could lay my hands on a VE5 mechanical with a MB flange ..... i´m dreaming boysSmileSmile
regards
ps: i have my pre cups ready , just missing the special tool to remove them. Sad

You can buy the socket from eBay. Costed me 21 euros. You make make a chamber puller yourself like I did. Either with a screw type puller or a sliding hammer. I used a Volkswagen chain tensioner to make the tool. Same tread as the injector.

Btw I finished the job today. A cobalt drill bit works nicely
This post was last modified: 12-13-2014, 11:47 AM by Tito.
Tito
12-13-2014, 11:46 AM #50

(12-12-2014, 03:32 PM)barrote yep ,
i thought about the same, thing is where to find a VE 5 full mechanichal. or lucas i belive.
injectors are piece of cake.
in europe the w210 E290 comes with a 602 DI lucas electrical pump.
if i could lay my hands on a VE5 mechanical with a MB flange ..... i´m dreaming boysSmileSmile
regards
ps: i have my pre cups ready , just missing the special tool to remove them. Sad

You can buy the socket from eBay. Costed me 21 euros. You make make a chamber puller yourself like I did. Either with a screw type puller or a sliding hammer. I used a Volkswagen chain tensioner to make the tool. Same tread as the injector.

Btw I finished the job today. A cobalt drill bit works nicely

Pages (3): 1 2 3 Next
 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
Users browsing this thread:
 3 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
 3 Guest(s)