STD Maintenance General Starter Issues

Starter Issues

Starter Issues

 
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IsaacDW
Turbo-charged

26
07-24-2009, 11:23 PM #1
Hello again, the starter on my 300TD is living its final days. The starter always turns, but rarely turns the engine. I can hear the motor winding up when I turn the key and it slowing down when I let go.

I believe that the teeth on the starter gear are worn, and wondered if any others have had this problem.

If so, are there any tips or tricks to help me access and remove the starter more easily, the allen bolts are a real headache to access? I attempted to pull the starter once, but didn't have enough time to remove the top bolt before I had to make a 1000 mile journey. Any information will be much appreciated, thanks!
IsaacDW
07-24-2009, 11:23 PM #1

Hello again, the starter on my 300TD is living its final days. The starter always turns, but rarely turns the engine. I can hear the motor winding up when I turn the key and it slowing down when I let go.

I believe that the teeth on the starter gear are worn, and wondered if any others have had this problem.

If so, are there any tips or tricks to help me access and remove the starter more easily, the allen bolts are a real headache to access? I attempted to pull the starter once, but didn't have enough time to remove the top bolt before I had to make a 1000 mile journey. Any information will be much appreciated, thanks!

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
07-25-2009, 12:30 AM #2
as for the starter turning w/o turning the engine over, that is a bendix issue and the starter will need to be replaced. basically there are two things that must happen for the starter to turn your engine over; the solenoid has to supply full battery current (or close to it) to the motor and the bendix (which is another solenoid) has to engage the starter gear to the flywheel gear so when it spins, it actually turns the engine over.

to replace it, get several extensions, I usually use an 18" and a couple of 6" ones with a universal joint on the driven end to align the allen socket to the allen bolt properly. Once the car is in the air, you can route the extensions along the passenger side of the tranny and guide the allen socket-bit into the bolt hole. If you have trouble, you can always drop the trans mount down and let the weight rest on a jack, but it is certainly doable without resorting to that. Use good quality uv joint and extensions, you want to deliver as much torque to the allen bolt as possible, and as always make sure the allen hole is clean before you start twisting, you REALLY don't want to strip those out.
This post was last modified: 07-25-2009, 12:31 AM by SurfRodder.

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
07-25-2009, 12:30 AM #2

as for the starter turning w/o turning the engine over, that is a bendix issue and the starter will need to be replaced. basically there are two things that must happen for the starter to turn your engine over; the solenoid has to supply full battery current (or close to it) to the motor and the bendix (which is another solenoid) has to engage the starter gear to the flywheel gear so when it spins, it actually turns the engine over.

to replace it, get several extensions, I usually use an 18" and a couple of 6" ones with a universal joint on the driven end to align the allen socket to the allen bolt properly. Once the car is in the air, you can route the extensions along the passenger side of the tranny and guide the allen socket-bit into the bolt hole. If you have trouble, you can always drop the trans mount down and let the weight rest on a jack, but it is certainly doable without resorting to that. Use good quality uv joint and extensions, you want to deliver as much torque to the allen bolt as possible, and as always make sure the allen hole is clean before you start twisting, you REALLY don't want to strip those out.


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
07-25-2009, 12:58 AM #3
When you remove the starter, take a look at the ring gear teeth to see if any are eaten off.
ForcedInduction
07-25-2009, 12:58 AM #3

When you remove the starter, take a look at the ring gear teeth to see if any are eaten off.

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
07-26-2009, 09:37 AM #4
I had similar issue w missing teeth on flywheel.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
07-26-2009, 09:37 AM #4

I had similar issue w missing teeth on flywheel.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

 
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