STD Tuning Engine Euro Conversion Questions

Euro Conversion Questions

Euro Conversion Questions

 
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hetiticth
Stubborn Teenager

4
03-25-2014, 04:05 PM #1
Hello! This is my first post to the forum, and hopefully some of my questions haven't been asked before-- but if they have, my bad..


So, I am in a situation where I have two different w123 300d's.
The oldest is a 1984 300d (Cali model, I believe), that I have recently acquired (in the past week, actually). So far, everything is in working order. There's a bad oil leak that I am working on, but other than that all is well.

The second, supposedly newer, car is what I believe is a 1985 Euro 300d NA. I say that I believe it is an '85, because that is what is said on the title. However; it has an older-style cruise control system, and a few other things which could indicate the year is wrong.
Unfortunately, the transmission has started slipping in this car. This is the reason for the new one.

For the majority of the time, I am a "driveway mechanic". Over the summer, I go to my Dad's place, and I have access to a ton more equipment there. (Lift, press, milling machine, lathe, etc.)
Money is a big obstacle though, so I will try to do everything myself first, unless I haven't the equipment for it.

And now, for the purpose of the post:
I am interested in knowing what can be switched from the Euro to the federali car in order to improve performance(engine-wise).

The euro has an M-pump that I intend to take off and put new elements on. I am thinking around 7 or 8mm, but I am still undecided.
Does anyone know what the original element size is?

I know that the M-pump is lubricated using the cam on the Euro. Would it be possible to just transfer the camshaft from the Euro, or is that just too easy?

I intend to install an intercooler soon, and work my way up to a larger turbo. The best pace for this seems to be in front of the radiator. There are two support bars in front of this (and there used to be a fan, but that has since been removed-- not my doing). I intend to install the Euro bumpers this coming weekend, and hopefully there will be more clearance. Will an intercooler help at all with the stock turbo?

If there is anything else that I could switch, please don't hesitate to mention it! Big Grin

Well, any help would be appreciated. I have looked around a bit, and I see some subjects touched, but nothing really definite. I can provide pictures of the differences between parts when switching things, if anyone is interested.
Many thanks!
~hetiticth

1985 Euro 300D (NA) (transmission is shot)
1984 300TD
hetiticth
03-25-2014, 04:05 PM #1

Hello! This is my first post to the forum, and hopefully some of my questions haven't been asked before-- but if they have, my bad..


So, I am in a situation where I have two different w123 300d's.
The oldest is a 1984 300d (Cali model, I believe), that I have recently acquired (in the past week, actually). So far, everything is in working order. There's a bad oil leak that I am working on, but other than that all is well.

The second, supposedly newer, car is what I believe is a 1985 Euro 300d NA. I say that I believe it is an '85, because that is what is said on the title. However; it has an older-style cruise control system, and a few other things which could indicate the year is wrong.
Unfortunately, the transmission has started slipping in this car. This is the reason for the new one.

For the majority of the time, I am a "driveway mechanic". Over the summer, I go to my Dad's place, and I have access to a ton more equipment there. (Lift, press, milling machine, lathe, etc.)
Money is a big obstacle though, so I will try to do everything myself first, unless I haven't the equipment for it.

And now, for the purpose of the post:
I am interested in knowing what can be switched from the Euro to the federali car in order to improve performance(engine-wise).

The euro has an M-pump that I intend to take off and put new elements on. I am thinking around 7 or 8mm, but I am still undecided.
Does anyone know what the original element size is?

I know that the M-pump is lubricated using the cam on the Euro. Would it be possible to just transfer the camshaft from the Euro, or is that just too easy?

I intend to install an intercooler soon, and work my way up to a larger turbo. The best pace for this seems to be in front of the radiator. There are two support bars in front of this (and there used to be a fan, but that has since been removed-- not my doing). I intend to install the Euro bumpers this coming weekend, and hopefully there will be more clearance. Will an intercooler help at all with the stock turbo?

If there is anything else that I could switch, please don't hesitate to mention it! Big Grin

Well, any help would be appreciated. I have looked around a bit, and I see some subjects touched, but nothing really definite. I can provide pictures of the differences between parts when switching things, if anyone is interested.
Many thanks!
~hetiticth


1985 Euro 300D (NA) (transmission is shot)
1984 300TD

w123love
Stockish

354
03-26-2014, 12:47 PM #2
Check the rear ends. See which one you would prefer. '85 is usually a 2.88, better for mileage than a 3.05 or something. The bumpers are lighter, (and better looking) so that's always a plus. Elements I think are like 5.5 or something. Do your fuel before your serious turbo project, as the turbo can handle anything your current pump can push out.

if it don’t blow black...take it back.

1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty

The VEGEWGN
w123love
03-26-2014, 12:47 PM #2

Check the rear ends. See which one you would prefer. '85 is usually a 2.88, better for mileage than a 3.05 or something. The bumpers are lighter, (and better looking) so that's always a plus. Elements I think are like 5.5 or something. Do your fuel before your serious turbo project, as the turbo can handle anything your current pump can push out.


if it don’t blow black...take it back.

1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty

The VEGEWGN

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
03-29-2014, 03:04 PM #3
Euro bumpers also crush like beer cans in a wreck, while the US bumpers don't, which is why I have a set of them in my garage and not on my car lol. That being said, if the Euro car had Euro lights I'd switch them over with the bumpers

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-29-2014, 03:04 PM #3

Euro bumpers also crush like beer cans in a wreck, while the US bumpers don't, which is why I have a set of them in my garage and not on my car lol. That being said, if the Euro car had Euro lights I'd switch them over with the bumpers


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

hetiticth
Stubborn Teenager

4
03-30-2014, 03:19 PM #4
Bumpers and lights will be moved over before next weekend. I've spent the whole weekend trying to fix a bad oil leak. Replaced the seal at the end of the crank, and that took awhile.

Is there any difference between the two radiators, other than the overflow container? I would like to move the radiator from the Euro over, because it is much cleaner, and will probably cool better.

1985 Euro 300D (NA) (transmission is shot)
1984 300TD
hetiticth
03-30-2014, 03:19 PM #4

Bumpers and lights will be moved over before next weekend. I've spent the whole weekend trying to fix a bad oil leak. Replaced the seal at the end of the crank, and that took awhile.

Is there any difference between the two radiators, other than the overflow container? I would like to move the radiator from the Euro over, because it is much cleaner, and will probably cool better.


1985 Euro 300D (NA) (transmission is shot)
1984 300TD

Purplecomputer
Slowness 220D

897
03-31-2014, 11:55 AM #5
(03-30-2014, 03:19 PM)hetiticth Bumpers and lights will be moved over before next weekend. I've spent the whole weekend trying to fix a bad oil leak. Replaced the seal at the end of the crank, and that took awhile.

Is there any difference between the two radiators, other than the overflow container? I would like to move the radiator from the Euro over, because it is much cleaner, and will probably cool better.

the euro bumpers are nice but dont get into an accident. they do absolutely nothing to protect you. Just look at my car.

but i can never go back to federal bumpers.

I would also check the rear differential, if you swap it make sure you also swap the instrument cluster as the gears in the speedometer are match to the differential. (I think thats the right wording)
Purplecomputer
03-31-2014, 11:55 AM #5

(03-30-2014, 03:19 PM)hetiticth Bumpers and lights will be moved over before next weekend. I've spent the whole weekend trying to fix a bad oil leak. Replaced the seal at the end of the crank, and that took awhile.

Is there any difference between the two radiators, other than the overflow container? I would like to move the radiator from the Euro over, because it is much cleaner, and will probably cool better.

the euro bumpers are nice but dont get into an accident. they do absolutely nothing to protect you. Just look at my car.

but i can never go back to federal bumpers.

I would also check the rear differential, if you swap it make sure you also swap the instrument cluster as the gears in the speedometer are match to the differential. (I think thats the right wording)

hetiticth
Stubborn Teenager

4
03-31-2014, 09:32 PM #6
(03-31-2014, 11:55 AM)Purplecomputer the euro bumpers are nice but dont get into an accident. they do absolutely nothing to protect you. Just look at my car.

but i can never go back to federal bumpers.

I would also check the rear differential, if you swap it make sure you also swap the instrument cluster as the gears in the speedometer are match to the differential. (I think thats the right wording)

Unfortunately, the instrument cluster in the Euro is aftermarket, and it looks like *please insert sophomoric excrement reference here*.

I have put in the Euro headlights, though they aren't quite right (very dim-- I think I wired them wrong on accident).
I also just took the front bumper off the Euro. Unfortunately, I broke one of the brackets that holds the rubber end-piece of the bumper.

Is there any advantage to a California air filter, over a normal one?

1985 Euro 300D (NA) (transmission is shot)
1984 300TD
hetiticth
03-31-2014, 09:32 PM #6

(03-31-2014, 11:55 AM)Purplecomputer the euro bumpers are nice but dont get into an accident. they do absolutely nothing to protect you. Just look at my car.

but i can never go back to federal bumpers.

I would also check the rear differential, if you swap it make sure you also swap the instrument cluster as the gears in the speedometer are match to the differential. (I think thats the right wording)

Unfortunately, the instrument cluster in the Euro is aftermarket, and it looks like *please insert sophomoric excrement reference here*.

I have put in the Euro headlights, though they aren't quite right (very dim-- I think I wired them wrong on accident).
I also just took the front bumper off the Euro. Unfortunately, I broke one of the brackets that holds the rubber end-piece of the bumper.

Is there any advantage to a California air filter, over a normal one?


1985 Euro 300D (NA) (transmission is shot)
1984 300TD

mbz123
GT2256V

122
04-01-2014, 02:45 AM #7
(03-31-2014, 09:32 PM)hetiticth Is there any advantage to a California air filter, over a normal one?

Yes, it sits off to side and out of the way which will come in handy when you start modding. At the least, keeping it means no more replacing broken brackets for the fed set up. If you don't end up using it, throw it up for sale and there's bound to be somebody looking for one.

MBZ123
mbz123
04-01-2014, 02:45 AM #7

(03-31-2014, 09:32 PM)hetiticth Is there any advantage to a California air filter, over a normal one?

Yes, it sits off to side and out of the way which will come in handy when you start modding. At the least, keeping it means no more replacing broken brackets for the fed set up. If you don't end up using it, throw it up for sale and there's bound to be somebody looking for one.

MBZ123

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
04-01-2014, 11:18 AM #8
It's not a direct bolt on because of the turbo placement on a cali car is a lot higher

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-01-2014, 11:18 AM #8

It's not a direct bolt on because of the turbo placement on a cali car is a lot higher


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

hetiticth
Stubborn Teenager

4
04-02-2014, 09:08 AM #9
I am asking because I think this might be a cali car-- the air filter from the euro wasn't the same size.

So, with the elements on the M-Pump, would it be possible to just make the existing elements larger (with a milling machine or something), or would I have to buy larger ones?

1985 Euro 300D (NA) (transmission is shot)
1984 300TD
hetiticth
04-02-2014, 09:08 AM #9

I am asking because I think this might be a cali car-- the air filter from the euro wasn't the same size.

So, with the elements on the M-Pump, would it be possible to just make the existing elements larger (with a milling machine or something), or would I have to buy larger ones?


1985 Euro 300D (NA) (transmission is shot)
1984 300TD

mbz123
GT2256V

122
04-02-2014, 10:20 PM #10
Air filter on the CA emissions restricted car sits in front of the PS wheel well just behind headlamp. Federal setup has the filter assembly sitting atop the turbo on PS of engine. As mentioned above the turbo itself sits higher on the CA model. The air filter elements of each model are entirely different. Someone will need to chime in on the arrangement of a euro fitted car. I had the impression they came setup like the federal version.

On the pump elements, yes it would be possible. It wouldn't, however, be advisable. For two reasons: the cut design and resultant tuning upon assembly. Just widening the gap or size of the passage is akin to shooting in total darkness. IOW, many factors converge here, it's not just bigger hole = googol fuel = monster power. IP reassembly without a proper tuning apparatus has a high likelihood of leaving you with a pile of scrap metal.

Buuuuuuuut.... if you do succeed, be sure to document here for the sake of STDkind!

MBZ123
mbz123
04-02-2014, 10:20 PM #10

Air filter on the CA emissions restricted car sits in front of the PS wheel well just behind headlamp. Federal setup has the filter assembly sitting atop the turbo on PS of engine. As mentioned above the turbo itself sits higher on the CA model. The air filter elements of each model are entirely different. Someone will need to chime in on the arrangement of a euro fitted car. I had the impression they came setup like the federal version.

On the pump elements, yes it would be possible. It wouldn't, however, be advisable. For two reasons: the cut design and resultant tuning upon assembly. Just widening the gap or size of the passage is akin to shooting in total darkness. IOW, many factors converge here, it's not just bigger hole = googol fuel = monster power. IP reassembly without a proper tuning apparatus has a high likelihood of leaving you with a pile of scrap metal.

Buuuuuuuut.... if you do succeed, be sure to document here for the sake of STDkind!

MBZ123

 
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