power loss problem making me crazy
power loss problem making me crazy
07-19-2009, 11:37 PM
#1
It do not think it is a fuel supply issue or an air issue or restriction, I have checked/replaced everything and nothing made a difference. Fuel sys is now plumbed stock, I replaced the LP (which was fine), return banjo and primer pump today, Fuel PSI at around 13, all hoses are good, return lines, new filters, screen in tank checked, etc. fuel sucks easy and air free with mityvac. The way it cut s power feels different from air, once it does this is stays this way until it sits and is restarted. Its done it for a while now and has gotten worse, I have done everything including running it off of a jug under the hood. It only seems to happen once the car is warmed up driving for 10 min or so, does not seem to happen when cold.
Tonight I replaced the Alda and switchover valve from my parts car thinking this was causing the fuel cut. I did not get it on the long hill or highway yet, but it did not have the problem on another shorter hill that it usually did (I went up and down it several times).
can a malfunctioning Alda system cause such a dramatic cut in fuel? I've seen malfunctioning ALDA before and this seems like more, but something is (or was) cutting off alot of fuel.
I'll know if its fixed tomorrow when I drive to work. Been driving me crazy, spent another beautiful weekend in the shop.
And something I learned today is make sure the dipstick is all the way in!
On one of my many testdrives today, I had oil blasting out of a small vent hole near the top of dipstick tube, pissed out like 4qts by the time I noticed it at the top of the mountain and it made a hell of a mess!
The breather seems fine, air is routed back into intake (which is always under vacuum?) and utilizes a catch can. I cannot see how the set up can not flow adequetly to vent the CC under any condition.
The problem has never happened before and has not re occurred, I probably just did not put it in all the way.
Has anyone ever noticed that oil will fill the tube when revved up with no dipstick???
This post was last modified: 07-20-2009, 12:14 AM by GileadGarage.
GileadGarage
07-19-2009, 11:37 PM #1My car is suffering from power loss on long hills or when really pushing on the high way, all of a sudden it would loose alot of power and barely hold 55MPH on small grade. The car runs perfectly smooth though, even at idle after stopping, and starts easy too, but the powerloss problem is abrupt and dramatic.
It do not think it is a fuel supply issue or an air issue or restriction, I have checked/replaced everything and nothing made a difference. Fuel sys is now plumbed stock, I replaced the LP (which was fine), return banjo and primer pump today, Fuel PSI at around 13, all hoses are good, return lines, new filters, screen in tank checked, etc. fuel sucks easy and air free with mityvac. The way it cut s power feels different from air, once it does this is stays this way until it sits and is restarted. Its done it for a while now and has gotten worse, I have done everything including running it off of a jug under the hood. It only seems to happen once the car is warmed up driving for 10 min or so, does not seem to happen when cold.
Tonight I replaced the Alda and switchover valve from my parts car thinking this was causing the fuel cut. I did not get it on the long hill or highway yet, but it did not have the problem on another shorter hill that it usually did (I went up and down it several times).
can a malfunctioning Alda system cause such a dramatic cut in fuel? I've seen malfunctioning ALDA before and this seems like more, but something is (or was) cutting off alot of fuel.
I'll know if its fixed tomorrow when I drive to work. Been driving me crazy, spent another beautiful weekend in the shop.
And something I learned today is make sure the dipstick is all the way in!
On one of my many testdrives today, I had oil blasting out of a small vent hole near the top of dipstick tube, pissed out like 4qts by the time I noticed it at the top of the mountain and it made a hell of a mess!
The breather seems fine, air is routed back into intake (which is always under vacuum?) and utilizes a catch can. I cannot see how the set up can not flow adequetly to vent the CC under any condition.
The problem has never happened before and has not re occurred, I probably just did not put it in all the way.
Has anyone ever noticed that oil will fill the tube when revved up with no dipstick???
07-20-2009, 08:49 AM
#2
(07-19-2009, 11:37 PM)GileadGarage My car is suffering from power loss on long hills or when really pushing on the high way, all of a sudden it would loose alot of power and barely hold 55MPH on small grade. The car runs perfectly smooth though, even at idle after stopping, and starts easy too, but the powerloss problem is abrupt and dramatic.
It do not think it is a fuel supply issue or an air issue or restriction, I have checked/replaced everything and nothing made a difference. Fuel sys is now plumbed stock, I replaced the LP (which was fine), return banjo and primer pump today, Fuel PSI at around 13, all hoses are good, return lines, new filters, screen in tank checked, etc. fuel sucks easy and air free with mityvac. The way it cut s power feels different from air, once it does this is stays this way until it sits and is restarted. Its done it for a while now and has gotten worse, I have done everything including running it off of a jug under the hood. It only seems to happen once the car is warmed up driving for 10 min or so, does not seem to happen when cold.
Tonight I replaced the Alda and switchover valve from my parts car thinking this was causing the fuel cut. I did not get it on the long hill or highway yet, but it did not have the problem on another shorter hill that it usually did (I went up and down it several times).
can a malfunctioning Alda system cause such a dramatic cut in fuel? I've seen malfunctioning ALDA before and this seems like more, but something is (or was) cutting off alot of fuel.
I'll know if its fixed tomorrow when I drive to work. Been driving me crazy, spent another beautiful weekend in the shop.
And something I learned today is make sure the dipstick is all the way in!
On one of my many testdrives today, I had oil blasting out of a small vent hole near the top of dipstick tube, pissed out like 4qts by the time I noticed it at the top of the mountain and it made a hell of a mess!
The breather seems fine, air is routed back into intake (which is always under vacuum?) and utilizes a catch can. I cannot see how the set up can not flow adequetly to vent the CC under any condition.
The problem has never happened before and has not re occurred, I probably just did not put it in all the way.
Has anyone ever noticed that oil will fill the tube when revved up with no dipstick???
Just got back from another test drive - still doing it. Could it be related to rack damper? I never messed around with any adjustments. If it is not something simply out of adjustment, I think it'll need an IP!!!
Anyone have any experience with a dying IP? anyone ever have a similar problem to mine? Any help is greatly appreciated!
I think I'll have to just park the car for now, and try to salvage the rest of my summer. I may just get rid of it - This thing has been nothing but problems lately and I'm running out of patience.
This post was last modified: 07-25-2009, 12:56 AM by ForcedInduction.
GileadGarage
07-20-2009, 08:49 AM #2(07-19-2009, 11:37 PM)GileadGarage My car is suffering from power loss on long hills or when really pushing on the high way, all of a sudden it would loose alot of power and barely hold 55MPH on small grade. The car runs perfectly smooth though, even at idle after stopping, and starts easy too, but the powerloss problem is abrupt and dramatic.
It do not think it is a fuel supply issue or an air issue or restriction, I have checked/replaced everything and nothing made a difference. Fuel sys is now plumbed stock, I replaced the LP (which was fine), return banjo and primer pump today, Fuel PSI at around 13, all hoses are good, return lines, new filters, screen in tank checked, etc. fuel sucks easy and air free with mityvac. The way it cut s power feels different from air, once it does this is stays this way until it sits and is restarted. Its done it for a while now and has gotten worse, I have done everything including running it off of a jug under the hood. It only seems to happen once the car is warmed up driving for 10 min or so, does not seem to happen when cold.
Tonight I replaced the Alda and switchover valve from my parts car thinking this was causing the fuel cut. I did not get it on the long hill or highway yet, but it did not have the problem on another shorter hill that it usually did (I went up and down it several times).
can a malfunctioning Alda system cause such a dramatic cut in fuel? I've seen malfunctioning ALDA before and this seems like more, but something is (or was) cutting off alot of fuel.
I'll know if its fixed tomorrow when I drive to work. Been driving me crazy, spent another beautiful weekend in the shop.
And something I learned today is make sure the dipstick is all the way in!
On one of my many testdrives today, I had oil blasting out of a small vent hole near the top of dipstick tube, pissed out like 4qts by the time I noticed it at the top of the mountain and it made a hell of a mess!
The breather seems fine, air is routed back into intake (which is always under vacuum?) and utilizes a catch can. I cannot see how the set up can not flow adequetly to vent the CC under any condition.
The problem has never happened before and has not re occurred, I probably just did not put it in all the way.
Has anyone ever noticed that oil will fill the tube when revved up with no dipstick???
Just got back from another test drive - still doing it. Could it be related to rack damper? I never messed around with any adjustments. If it is not something simply out of adjustment, I think it'll need an IP!!!
Anyone have any experience with a dying IP? anyone ever have a similar problem to mine? Any help is greatly appreciated!
I think I'll have to just park the car for now, and try to salvage the rest of my summer. I may just get rid of it - This thing has been nothing but problems lately and I'm running out of patience.
07-20-2009, 04:22 PM
#4
(07-20-2009, 12:47 PM)winmutt Bypass the switchover valve and report back.
Will do. I just replaced it (and Alda) and made no diff, but I'll try bypassing it altogether. I did unplug it on my way to work thinking the sensor was activating the valve when it should'nt, but made no diff.
I can blow throught the valve just fine.
I am confident it is not a fuel supply issue, the fuel plumbing is in stock configuration and no air can be detected. I believe the problem is either turbo related or Enrichment related. When the problem occurs on the TD, my 240D feels way faster. I'm not sure what the turbo cars feel like with no turbo, but I'd still think it would be faster than this.
Could there be some weird turbo problem that can cause this intermitant problem?
It runs very smooth and starts well though, just abruptly cuts power after 15 Min driving on highway at 75. I shut the car off while driving and restarted it (trans loved that!) it was better for a little bit, but problem re occured.
I am starting to think the worst. I have another IP but no time to put it in, Greasy Beast.... How much you want to do it
???? I can bring it to you or you can do it in my shop in Bethel. I'm about ready to give up on this car, I've driven it 75K and it has been good to me until this past year. I have to admit, the sound of a year round Tdi wagon that starts well in winter is very appealling right now! Instead of two old MBZ's to keep alive. Man, that $200 240D always runs great, I trust that neglected beater more than anything else in the flock, but it is seriously rusty so its days are numbered.
GileadGarage
07-20-2009, 04:22 PM #4(07-20-2009, 12:47 PM)winmutt Bypass the switchover valve and report back.
Will do. I just replaced it (and Alda) and made no diff, but I'll try bypassing it altogether. I did unplug it on my way to work thinking the sensor was activating the valve when it should'nt, but made no diff.
I can blow throught the valve just fine.
I am confident it is not a fuel supply issue, the fuel plumbing is in stock configuration and no air can be detected. I believe the problem is either turbo related or Enrichment related. When the problem occurs on the TD, my 240D feels way faster. I'm not sure what the turbo cars feel like with no turbo, but I'd still think it would be faster than this.
Could there be some weird turbo problem that can cause this intermitant problem?
It runs very smooth and starts well though, just abruptly cuts power after 15 Min driving on highway at 75. I shut the car off while driving and restarted it (trans loved that!) it was better for a little bit, but problem re occured.
I am starting to think the worst. I have another IP but no time to put it in, Greasy Beast.... How much you want to do it
???? I can bring it to you or you can do it in my shop in Bethel. I'm about ready to give up on this car, I've driven it 75K and it has been good to me until this past year. I have to admit, the sound of a year round Tdi wagon that starts well in winter is very appealling right now! Instead of two old MBZ's to keep alive. Man, that $200 240D always runs great, I trust that neglected beater more than anything else in the flock, but it is seriously rusty so its days are numbered.
07-20-2009, 09:21 PM
#5
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-20-2009, 09:21 PM #5check to make sure the fitting on the manifold isn't plugging up IE the banjo bolt on the rear to the ALDA line! if it plugs up it will cause this
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
07-20-2009, 11:28 PM
#6
(07-20-2009, 09:21 PM)willbhere4u check to make sure the fitting on the manifold isn't plugging up IE the banjo bolt on the rear to the ALDA line! if it plugs up it will cause this
Yea, I checked that, all is clear to Alda. I was on my way home from work tonight and it had the problem early on, but then it got better and let me cruise at 80 just fine. When I got off the exit, I hammered it upto about 85 and then she fell on her face again, then recovered when cruising no more then 1/2 throttle. I was going after fuel supply problems but now I'm thinking its turbo related (I know it may sound supply related, but it is not). I will triple check all things turbo and ALDA and report back. I was just not aware that no turbo makes them this slow. I'd think that with complete lack of boost it would still be nearly as powerful as my 240, but guess not.
I was also wondering if some way a shutoff issue could cut off some fuel somehow . I disconnected but it made no diff.
Could it be a broken spring or some weird thing in the IP, causing it to limit fuel during WOT, probably not. I was thinking about all these weird things which are highly unlikly.
BTW I did get over the Jetta thoughts, just shows how desperate I'm getting.
THX for the reply.
GileadGarage
07-20-2009, 11:28 PM #6(07-20-2009, 09:21 PM)willbhere4u check to make sure the fitting on the manifold isn't plugging up IE the banjo bolt on the rear to the ALDA line! if it plugs up it will cause this
Yea, I checked that, all is clear to Alda. I was on my way home from work tonight and it had the problem early on, but then it got better and let me cruise at 80 just fine. When I got off the exit, I hammered it upto about 85 and then she fell on her face again, then recovered when cruising no more then 1/2 throttle. I was going after fuel supply problems but now I'm thinking its turbo related (I know it may sound supply related, but it is not). I will triple check all things turbo and ALDA and report back. I was just not aware that no turbo makes them this slow. I'd think that with complete lack of boost it would still be nearly as powerful as my 240, but guess not.
I was also wondering if some way a shutoff issue could cut off some fuel somehow . I disconnected but it made no diff.
Could it be a broken spring or some weird thing in the IP, causing it to limit fuel during WOT, probably not. I was thinking about all these weird things which are highly unlikly.
BTW I did get over the Jetta thoughts, just shows how desperate I'm getting.
THX for the reply.
07-21-2009, 05:12 PM
#7
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-21-2009, 05:12 PM #7with out boost they are dogs! I could get my 300sd to 70 mph floored on flat ground with out boost but it was working hard for it with out boost the alda wont add enough fuel to make good power! no boost and no fuel = slow!!!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
07-21-2009, 05:21 PM
#8
I also plugged the wastegate hose temporarily just to check the wastegate functionality. As expected, my boost would easily peg the 15LB gauge. I drove the car easy with boost not exceeding 12 or so. I still had the problem occur - though not as bad. When the problem happened, I could only get around 8PSI at WOT so the car did not dog quite as bad as it did.
Something seems to be cutting off my fuel and I don't know what, or the wastegate is opening and hanging up a bit? What the best way to check the wastegate?
The EGR is blocked so I know thats not part of the prob.
I'll probably turn up the new Alda a bit to see how it responds, but it still has the same problem as with the other Alda. I'm also going to install a manual boost controller which I've been meaning to do.
Good to know that they are that slow with no turbo, mine would struggle for 70 on flat ground too with no boost
Thanks
I'm still at a loss, but atleast it is driveable (for me, not the wife)
This post was last modified: 07-21-2009, 07:03 PM by ForcedInduction.
GileadGarage
07-21-2009, 05:21 PM #8Today I bypassed the switchover valve, all is clear to Alda. Alda was replaced with one from another pump, stock setting.
I also plugged the wastegate hose temporarily just to check the wastegate functionality. As expected, my boost would easily peg the 15LB gauge. I drove the car easy with boost not exceeding 12 or so. I still had the problem occur - though not as bad. When the problem happened, I could only get around 8PSI at WOT so the car did not dog quite as bad as it did.
Something seems to be cutting off my fuel and I don't know what, or the wastegate is opening and hanging up a bit? What the best way to check the wastegate?
The EGR is blocked so I know thats not part of the prob.
I'll probably turn up the new Alda a bit to see how it responds, but it still has the same problem as with the other Alda. I'm also going to install a manual boost controller which I've been meaning to do.
Good to know that they are that slow with no turbo, mine would struggle for 70 on flat ground too with no boost
Thanks
I'm still at a loss, but atleast it is driveable (for me, not the wife)
07-22-2009, 03:51 PM
#9
(07-21-2009, 05:21 PM)GileadGarage Today I bypassed the switchover valve, all is clear to Alda. Alda was replaced with one from another pump, stock setting.
I also plugged the wastegate hose temporarily just to check the wastegate functionality. As expected, my boost would easily peg the 15LB gauge. I drove the car easy with boost not exceeding 12 or so. I still had the problem occur - though not as bad. When the problem happened, I could only get around 8PSI at WOT so the car did not dog quite as bad as it did.
Something seems to be cutting off my fuel and I don't know what, or the wastegate is opening and hanging up a bit? What the best way to check the wastegate?
The EGR is blocked so I know thats not part of the prob.
I'll probably turn up the new Alda a bit to see how it responds, but it still has the same problem as with the other Alda. I'm also going to install a manual boost controller which I've been meaning to do.
Good to know that they are that slow with no turbo, mine would struggle for 70 on flat ground too with no boost
Thanks
I'm still at a loss, but atleast it is driveable (for me, not the wife)
Must be an IP problem. Something is somehow cutting off fuel, I'll need to learn more about them to determine what it is, but I don't really care, I just want it fixed. I've tried everything I can think of.
GileadGarage
07-22-2009, 03:51 PM #9(07-21-2009, 05:21 PM)GileadGarage Today I bypassed the switchover valve, all is clear to Alda. Alda was replaced with one from another pump, stock setting.
I also plugged the wastegate hose temporarily just to check the wastegate functionality. As expected, my boost would easily peg the 15LB gauge. I drove the car easy with boost not exceeding 12 or so. I still had the problem occur - though not as bad. When the problem happened, I could only get around 8PSI at WOT so the car did not dog quite as bad as it did.
Something seems to be cutting off my fuel and I don't know what, or the wastegate is opening and hanging up a bit? What the best way to check the wastegate?
The EGR is blocked so I know thats not part of the prob.
I'll probably turn up the new Alda a bit to see how it responds, but it still has the same problem as with the other Alda. I'm also going to install a manual boost controller which I've been meaning to do.
Good to know that they are that slow with no turbo, mine would struggle for 70 on flat ground too with no boost
Thanks
I'm still at a loss, but atleast it is driveable (for me, not the wife)
Must be an IP problem. Something is somehow cutting off fuel, I'll need to learn more about them to determine what it is, but I don't really care, I just want it fixed. I've tried everything I can think of.
07-22-2009, 04:06 PM
#10
(07-19-2009, 11:37 PM)GileadGarage Has anyone ever noticed that oil will fill the tube when revved up with no dipstick???
this should not be happening, it means you have crankcase pressure - it could easily cut off your fuel supply. You are not breathing well enough. Vent to atm for a trial run or once you notice the problem occurring.
This post was last modified: 07-26-2009, 10:58 AM by totaldisaster.
totaldisaster
07-22-2009, 04:06 PM #10(07-19-2009, 11:37 PM)GileadGarage Has anyone ever noticed that oil will fill the tube when revved up with no dipstick???
this should not be happening, it means you have crankcase pressure - it could easily cut off your fuel supply. You are not breathing well enough. Vent to atm for a trial run or once you notice the problem occurring.
07-22-2009, 06:40 PM
#11
(07-22-2009, 04:06 PM)totaldisaster(07-19-2009, 11:37 PM)GileadGarage Really, CC Pressure will somehow limit fuel? I have to think about that one. I know I have some blowby, always have. But it does not seem too bad and I thought it is vented well enough.
Come to think of it, I do smell some vapor after the prob occurs.
Interesting, I'll vent to atm before my drive home
Thanks.
Has anyone ever noticed that oil will fill the tube when revved up with no dipstick???
this should not be happening, it means you have crank pressure - it could easily cut off your fuel supply. You are not breathing well enough. Vent to atm for a trial run or once you notice the problem occurring.
GileadGarage
07-22-2009, 06:40 PM #11(07-22-2009, 04:06 PM)totaldisaster(07-19-2009, 11:37 PM)GileadGarage Really, CC Pressure will somehow limit fuel? I have to think about that one. I know I have some blowby, always have. But it does not seem too bad and I thought it is vented well enough.
Come to think of it, I do smell some vapor after the prob occurs.
Interesting, I'll vent to atm before my drive home
Thanks.
Has anyone ever noticed that oil will fill the tube when revved up with no dipstick???
this should not be happening, it means you have crank pressure - it could easily cut off your fuel supply. You are not breathing well enough. Vent to atm for a trial run or once you notice the problem occurring.
07-22-2009, 07:22 PM
#12
totaldisaster
07-22-2009, 07:22 PM #12yes. It will actually shut your car down once enough pressure builds. The vac pump exhausts into the timing cavity adding to 'perceived' blowby... somewhat irrelevant, but something to keep in mind as you 'think about this one'...
07-22-2009, 07:48 PM
#13
(07-22-2009, 07:22 PM)totaldisaster yes. It will actually shut your car down once enough pressure builds. The vac pump exhausts into the timing cavity adding to 'perceived' blowby... somewhat irrelevant, but something to keep in mind as you 'think about this one'...
Good stuff, that def did not occur to me. My cc is vented to the intake pipe now (have K&N set up), I thought that since this was under vacuum, it would be better then atm, guess not. I'll pull the hose and try it out tonight.
I guess best case is that I get it running better, but the engine is getting tired so either way things are not so good. I never did give it a comp test yet. I hope I can run it through the summer, this winter I plan on doing the engine/4spd swap.
Thanks again.
GileadGarage
07-22-2009, 07:48 PM #13(07-22-2009, 07:22 PM)totaldisaster yes. It will actually shut your car down once enough pressure builds. The vac pump exhausts into the timing cavity adding to 'perceived' blowby... somewhat irrelevant, but something to keep in mind as you 'think about this one'...
Good stuff, that def did not occur to me. My cc is vented to the intake pipe now (have K&N set up), I thought that since this was under vacuum, it would be better then atm, guess not. I'll pull the hose and try it out tonight.
I guess best case is that I get it running better, but the engine is getting tired so either way things are not so good. I never did give it a comp test yet. I hope I can run it through the summer, this winter I plan on doing the engine/4spd swap.
Thanks again.
07-22-2009, 08:28 PM
#14
I suggested atm to remove that element as a failure / restriction
This post was last modified: 07-26-2009, 10:59 AM by totaldisaster.
totaldisaster
07-22-2009, 08:28 PM #14sending ccv into the intake does remove pressure by vacuum... I agree. But aren't you going through a catch can first?
I suggested atm to remove that element as a failure / restriction
07-22-2009, 11:00 PM
#15
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-22-2009, 11:00 PM #15on the 1980 300sd It was vented directly in to the turbo inlet. oil fumes and all every once and awhile it would build some oil up. and the turbo would suck the oil in to the intake! and the car would accelerate like a bat out of hell leaving rubber into 2nd gear and make the blackest cloud I had ever seen! like in a tractor pull!!!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
07-23-2009, 12:15 AM
#16
(07-22-2009, 08:28 PM)totaldisaster sending ccv into the intake does remove vacuum... I agree. But aren't you going through a catch can first?
I suggested atm to remove that element as a failure / restriction
Yes, I'm going through a catch can which drains into the original drain tube, vented with a 3/8 hose that connects into the turbo inlet tube.
Been using it for a few years, seems to work OK.
Tonight I disconnected the hose from the intake and put it down the coil spring hole,
it seemed to make a little difference, but there were still times boost all of a sudden would drop down to 7 or less on the highway and I'd have a hard time holding even 55 on some hills I used to run at 70. The breather is clear and flows ok, but maybe 18" of 3/8 hose is too restrictive? The car will keep going floored but slow, but run smooth even if immediately returned to idle. I've been through the fuel supply thing and it is not the problem, as mentioned above I replaced primer pump, LP, filters, ran off of jug under the hood, monitored vac/psi etc and nothing has made a difference.
The only things I did recently to the engine is valve adj, adjusted timing (barely moved pump towards engine) to 26*, new nozzle , oil change (Rotella as usual). It sounds good and moves pretty good when not having the problem, does not use much oil, but I have always had oil leak problems, I just replaced oil filter housing gasket, fr main seal, all drain grommets/Orings which I hated to do since I'll be finishing my other motor to swap in this winter.
Whatever the problem may be, I have a tired engine I hope to get another 10K out of this summer/fall. Hopefully I can tune the problem out enough, with out going through too much work on this motor or IP.
I've put about 75K on this car it has 253K on it now, its a pretty clean car. Maybe it was run low on oil or something by the previous owner.
The Alda I installed is set stock, think I'll turn it up a bit, but the other Alda acted the same. as of now switchover valve is bypassed.
I need to read up on what your saying about the vac pump venting, CC psi and timing deal, makes sense since they shut down when breather is plugged. I'll try that trick tomorrow to seee how long it takes to shut down.
Thanks again
This post was last modified: 07-23-2009, 12:55 AM by ForcedInduction.
GileadGarage
07-23-2009, 12:15 AM #16(07-22-2009, 08:28 PM)totaldisaster sending ccv into the intake does remove vacuum... I agree. But aren't you going through a catch can first?
I suggested atm to remove that element as a failure / restriction
Yes, I'm going through a catch can which drains into the original drain tube, vented with a 3/8 hose that connects into the turbo inlet tube.
Been using it for a few years, seems to work OK.
Tonight I disconnected the hose from the intake and put it down the coil spring hole,
it seemed to make a little difference, but there were still times boost all of a sudden would drop down to 7 or less on the highway and I'd have a hard time holding even 55 on some hills I used to run at 70. The breather is clear and flows ok, but maybe 18" of 3/8 hose is too restrictive? The car will keep going floored but slow, but run smooth even if immediately returned to idle. I've been through the fuel supply thing and it is not the problem, as mentioned above I replaced primer pump, LP, filters, ran off of jug under the hood, monitored vac/psi etc and nothing has made a difference.
The only things I did recently to the engine is valve adj, adjusted timing (barely moved pump towards engine) to 26*, new nozzle , oil change (Rotella as usual). It sounds good and moves pretty good when not having the problem, does not use much oil, but I have always had oil leak problems, I just replaced oil filter housing gasket, fr main seal, all drain grommets/Orings which I hated to do since I'll be finishing my other motor to swap in this winter.
Whatever the problem may be, I have a tired engine I hope to get another 10K out of this summer/fall. Hopefully I can tune the problem out enough, with out going through too much work on this motor or IP.
I've put about 75K on this car it has 253K on it now, its a pretty clean car. Maybe it was run low on oil or something by the previous owner.
The Alda I installed is set stock, think I'll turn it up a bit, but the other Alda acted the same. as of now switchover valve is bypassed.
I need to read up on what your saying about the vac pump venting, CC psi and timing deal, makes sense since they shut down when breather is plugged. I'll try that trick tomorrow to seee how long it takes to shut down.
Thanks again
07-23-2009, 12:29 AM
#17
I recently buttoned up all my connections along the boost pathway with tremendous results. I even clocked my compressor housing a tad to get the perfect fit for that intermediate tube from the turbo to the intake mani...
summary: If you ever hear any whistling, you might be losing boost somewhere. Tighten your manifold bolts, inspect the banjo bolt on the intake and the corresponding line... anywhere boost can exit, it will.
It just doesn't make sense for a worn engine to 'suddenly' display performance issues considering the steps you've already taken.
In addition, allowing positive pressure conditions as a normal part of your engine's behavior can effect ring wear primarily because of the way they 'seat' against the cylinder walls during piston travel.
This post was last modified: 07-23-2009, 12:30 AM by totaldisaster.
totaldisaster
07-23-2009, 12:29 AM #173/8 is kinda small... but with it vented to atm I don't believe it would stall your engine ever.
I recently buttoned up all my connections along the boost pathway with tremendous results. I even clocked my compressor housing a tad to get the perfect fit for that intermediate tube from the turbo to the intake mani...
summary: If you ever hear any whistling, you might be losing boost somewhere. Tighten your manifold bolts, inspect the banjo bolt on the intake and the corresponding line... anywhere boost can exit, it will.
It just doesn't make sense for a worn engine to 'suddenly' display performance issues considering the steps you've already taken.
In addition, allowing positive pressure conditions as a normal part of your engine's behavior can effect ring wear primarily because of the way they 'seat' against the cylinder walls during piston travel.
07-23-2009, 12:52 AM
#18
High backpressure will also harm the turbo. The engine should have less than 0.1psi positive crankcase pressure or it will affect oil flow out of the turbo.
ForcedInduction
07-23-2009, 12:52 AM
#18
3/8 is much too small. 1/2" should be minimum and I use 3/4" hose on my cars.
High backpressure will also harm the turbo. The engine should have less than 0.1psi positive crankcase pressure or it will affect oil flow out of the turbo.
07-23-2009, 04:55 AM
#19
(07-23-2009, 12:52 AM)ForcedInduction 3/8 is much too small. 1/2" should be minimum and I use 3/4" hose on my cars.
High backpressure will also harm the turbo. The engine should have less than 0.1psi positive crankcase pressure or it will affect oil flow out of the turbo.
I second that. I have used smaller before and the car is useless.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(07-23-2009, 12:52 AM)ForcedInduction 3/8 is much too small. 1/2" should be minimum and I use 3/4" hose on my cars.
High backpressure will also harm the turbo. The engine should have less than 0.1psi positive crankcase pressure or it will affect oil flow out of the turbo.
I second that. I have used smaller before and the car is useless.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
07-23-2009, 11:43 AM
#20
(07-23-2009, 04:55 AM)winmutt(07-23-2009, 12:52 AM)ForcedInduction 3/8 is much too small. 1/2" should be minimum and I use 3/4" hose on my cars.
High backpressure will also harm the turbo. The engine should have less than 0.1psi positive crankcase pressure or it will affect oil flow out of the turbo.
I second that. I have used smaller before and the car is useless.
OK thanks, I'll look into changing it right now. I should mention that it uses the stock size hose from the VC to the catch can, but yes the vent line is 3/8 and is kinda long.
I may just run a large hose direct from VC through coil hole temporarilly to see what happens. I thought that since I was pulling a vacuum on the breather vent hose by being connected to intake it would be OK, but it already performs better being vented to atm.
Great info, thanks!!!!
This post was last modified: 07-23-2009, 03:02 PM by ForcedInduction.
GileadGarage
07-23-2009, 11:43 AM #20(07-23-2009, 04:55 AM)winmutt(07-23-2009, 12:52 AM)ForcedInduction 3/8 is much too small. 1/2" should be minimum and I use 3/4" hose on my cars.
High backpressure will also harm the turbo. The engine should have less than 0.1psi positive crankcase pressure or it will affect oil flow out of the turbo.
I second that. I have used smaller before and the car is useless.
OK thanks, I'll look into changing it right now. I should mention that it uses the stock size hose from the VC to the catch can, but yes the vent line is 3/8 and is kinda long.
I may just run a large hose direct from VC through coil hole temporarilly to see what happens. I thought that since I was pulling a vacuum on the breather vent hose by being connected to intake it would be OK, but it already performs better being vented to atm.
Great info, thanks!!!!
07-23-2009, 06:08 PM
#21
I did not push it hard, I'll get on it tonight on the drive home and know for sure whats happening.
I turned the Alda out 1/2 turn. I'm only getting around 9.5-10 psi max but it feels fine - i'm just looking for it to be reliable right now (the new motor will be getting all the tricks though).
I think I'll leave the switchover valve bypassed for now, since the boost is not too high and I have a boost gauge (?). Cruising down the highway at 75 boost is around 6-7psi.
Maybe I can take it on a family trip to CT this weekend afterall.
Thanks again, you guys helped me out a bunch!!!
GileadGarage
07-23-2009, 06:08 PM #21So I redid my breather set up, uses the catch can and 5/8 hose vent to atm (down coil spring hole), came out nice. Made a difference! I drove it to work 45 miles w/ AC on and it did not act up, i may have felt it a tiny bit after 75 up a grade, but it was doing well - 70 up the usual hills hanging with "modern" traffic just fine.
I did not push it hard, I'll get on it tonight on the drive home and know for sure whats happening.
I turned the Alda out 1/2 turn. I'm only getting around 9.5-10 psi max but it feels fine - i'm just looking for it to be reliable right now (the new motor will be getting all the tricks though).
I think I'll leave the switchover valve bypassed for now, since the boost is not too high and I have a boost gauge (?). Cruising down the highway at 75 boost is around 6-7psi.
Maybe I can take it on a family trip to CT this weekend afterall.
Thanks again, you guys helped me out a bunch!!!
07-24-2009, 12:00 PM
#22
Lesson learned about CC ventilation - gotta let them breath!!!
Thanks again
This post was last modified: 07-24-2009, 12:02 PM by GileadGarage.
GileadGarage
07-24-2009, 12:00 PM #22Yea, it seems to be fixed. runs strong, better then ever on hills. Not sure why all of a sudden the breather was inadequete, maybe because of the new.265's and 26* timing.
Lesson learned about CC ventilation - gotta let them breath!!!
Thanks again
07-24-2009, 12:27 PM
#23
totaldisaster
07-24-2009, 12:27 PM #23As you advance timing, you increase the top pressures in the cylinder. This leads to greater blowby..
07-24-2009, 07:51 PM
#24
. I would never have thought about CCV. I'll keep all this in mind when I build my catch can tomorrow.
GREASY_BEAST
07-24-2009, 07:51 PM #24WOW. Great to hear it was solved. Sorry my advice wasn't any help . I would never have thought about CCV. I'll keep all this in mind when I build my catch can tomorrow.
07-24-2009, 10:29 PM
#25
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-24-2009, 10:29 PM #25this is great info!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
07-28-2009, 12:43 AM
#26
The only thing i did notice (completely unrelated) was that the car sat a little bit higher in the back when i got home (noticed that my headlights were pointing down lower) I got under there today and free'd up the swivels on the adj rod and adjusted it a tiny bit, now it sits how i want it. Sure is easier to adj the rear compared to the front! I also changed the SLS fluid again, since I want to protect my functiioning SLS system.
Greasy, glad you didnt take me up on the IP replacement - guess you knew better. Also want to mention that I do still have that 85TD parts car if you are looking for anything.
Thanks again everyone
GileadGarage
07-28-2009, 12:43 AM #26Yea , great info which helped me alot. The car runs perfect, took it on 600 mile trip this weekend all loaded down 80MPH ac cranking, drove like an absolute dream. Great power, no film on the back, virtually no oil leaks either.
The only thing i did notice (completely unrelated) was that the car sat a little bit higher in the back when i got home (noticed that my headlights were pointing down lower) I got under there today and free'd up the swivels on the adj rod and adjusted it a tiny bit, now it sits how i want it. Sure is easier to adj the rear compared to the front! I also changed the SLS fluid again, since I want to protect my functiioning SLS system.
Greasy, glad you didnt take me up on the IP replacement - guess you knew better. Also want to mention that I do still have that 85TD parts car if you are looking for anything.
Thanks again everyone
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