Quick Spool Valve
Quick Spool Valve
![[Image: supra_2267_345948851_zpsf9ff0be5.jpg]](http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/agrantz629/media/supra_2267_345948851_zpsf9ff0be5.jpg.html)
To use it you will need a undivided exhuast manifold with the QSV between the divided turbo housing.
http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.html
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthr...ons-Thread
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthr...uel-System
I may try my hand at making one on the mill if no one has done this before on the MB Diesels
If its not inline its out of line
I was wondering if anyone has used this before on the diesels?
To use it you will need a undivided exhuast manifold with the QSV between the divided turbo housing.
http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.html
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthr...ons-Thread
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthr...uel-System
I may try my hand at making one on the mill if no one has done this before on the MB Diesels
If its not inline its out of line
(01-17-2014, 03:20 AM)Gearbound I was wondering if anyone has used this before on the diesels?
To use it you will need a undivided exhuast manifold with the QSV between the divided turbo housing.
http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.html
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthr...ons-Thread
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthr...uel-System
I may try my hand at making one on the mill if no one has done this before on the MB Diesels
I read into these a lot when putting my engine together. They only work if you use a divided housing on a header/manifold that IS NOT divided. There was some one who actually did rear test and research on this and found no improvement and actually lost some mid RPM boost (presumably when the valve opens). You would be much better off with a true split manifold and turbo to use the twin scroll rather then having a twin scroll and this valve to try to force it through one side only to switch it to both later on.
just my $.02
Duncansport
01-17-2014, 08:24 AM #2(01-17-2014, 03:20 AM)Gearbound I was wondering if anyone has used this before on the diesels?
To use it you will need a undivided exhuast manifold with the QSV between the divided turbo housing.
http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.html
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthr...ons-Thread
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthr...uel-System
I may try my hand at making one on the mill if no one has done this before on the MB Diesels
I read into these a lot when putting my engine together. They only work if you use a divided housing on a header/manifold that IS NOT divided. There was some one who actually did rear test and research on this and found no improvement and actually lost some mid RPM boost (presumably when the valve opens). You would be much better off with a true split manifold and turbo to use the twin scroll rather then having a twin scroll and this valve to try to force it through one side only to switch it to both later on.
just my $.02
But from what I have read, making one is tought because of the expansion of the metals and the tolerances of the shafts etc
I think I saw where someone on here had made one?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
People have used them before, search on competition diesel for a better description.
But from what I have read, making one is tought because of the expansion of the metals and the tolerances of the shafts etc
I think I saw where someone on here had made one?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
here is as close as i got to with a quick spool valve, i used a 20mm spacer between manifold and turbo with only 1 hole in it, so 1 turbo scroll was blocked off and then i run on dyno, then i had another 20mm spacer which was fully open. this was on a hx35 with a 18.5cm housing. you can see the difference in spool up and over all power.
![[Image: utf-8BSU1HMDA2MzUtMjAxMTExMjMtMTIwMi5qcGc.jpg]](http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc461/mantahead1/utf-8BSU1HMDA2MzUtMjAxMTExMjMtMTIwMi5qcGc.jpg)
i would imagine it should work ok but if it opens too fast you will get a power dip.
if your making one, you can use an engine valve guide for the pivot bar on the flap to turn in, it will take the heat
hi guys,
here is as close as i got to with a quick spool valve, i used a 20mm spacer between manifold and turbo with only 1 hole in it, so 1 turbo scroll was blocked off and then i run on dyno, then i had another 20mm spacer which was fully open. this was on a hx35 with a 18.5cm housing. you can see the difference in spool up and over all power.
i would imagine it should work ok but if it opens too fast you will get a power dip.
if your making one, you can use an engine valve guide for the pivot bar on the flap to turn in, it will take the heat
Impressive results of 100ftlbs at 3700rpm (75hp) that must be a kick in the pants!
also suprising how linear the powerband is without the spool valve.
what sort of EGT do performance diesels see?
(01-17-2014, 04:19 PM)mantahead hi guys,
here is as close as i got to with a quick spool valve, i used a 20mm spacer between manifold and turbo with only 1 hole in it, so 1 turbo scroll was blocked off and then i run on dyno, then i had another 20mm spacer which was fully open. this was on a hx35 with a 18.5cm housing. you can see the difference in spool up and over all power.
i would imagine it should work ok but if it opens too fast you will get a power dip.
if your making one, you can use an engine valve guide for the pivot bar on the flap to turn in, it will take the heat
If its not inline its out of line
Thanks manta! something like a external wastegate actuator set 10psi with a manual boost controller on it may help with how fast it opens and a engine valve is a good idea for the butterfly pivot and a 8-10 guage steel for the butterfly door. some cold rolled steel for the flange may resist the heat and expansion. Can only experiment
Impressive results of 100ftlbs at 3700rpm (75hp) that must be a kick in the pants!
also suprising how linear the powerband is without the spool valve.
what sort of EGT do performance diesels see?
(01-17-2014, 04:19 PM)mantahead hi guys,
here is as close as i got to with a quick spool valve, i used a 20mm spacer between manifold and turbo with only 1 hole in it, so 1 turbo scroll was blocked off and then i run on dyno, then i had another 20mm spacer which was fully open. this was on a hx35 with a 18.5cm housing. you can see the difference in spool up and over all power.
i would imagine it should work ok but if it opens too fast you will get a power dip.
if your making one, you can use an engine valve guide for the pivot bar on the flap to turn in, it will take the heat
If its not inline its out of line
![[Image: 208104.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/208104.png)
i would imagine the back pressure would have been high with that housing half blocked off(had no gauge)
think egts where 700-800 degrees c.
the spool up difference was very noticable but i was running 3.3 bar with half housing to get that power and only 2.5bar with the open turbo.
i would imagine the back pressure would have been high with that housing half blocked off(had no gauge)
think egts where 700-800 degrees c.
I'm manufacturing my own at the moment machined from billet, I will upload pics to gauge interest as my machinist offered a discount if he makes a run of them.
RE actuation: The pressure actuator must be exhaust manifold pressure refeerenced for best results. Think about it, the quick spool valve doesn't care what compressor outlet pressure is, it only needs to know when to open the valve as exhaust manifold pressure starts to rise due to the restriction caused.
H.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
I really like the idea of these, halving the A/R at low revs will make a noticeable difference to the revs at which my heavy wheeled HX35 will spool at.
I'm manufacturing my own at the moment machined from billet, I will upload pics to gauge interest as my machinist offered a discount if he makes a run of them.
RE actuation: The pressure actuator must be exhaust manifold pressure refeerenced for best results. Think about it, the quick spool valve doesn't care what compressor outlet pressure is, it only needs to know when to open the valve as exhaust manifold pressure starts to rise due to the restriction caused.
H.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(01-19-2014, 05:02 PM)Gearbound what could be used for exhaust pressure reference, i cant imagine pumping soot into a waste-gate actuator would end well.
Can't see soot in the actuator being a problem, it doesn't pass the gasses it only references them. Same as having a map sensor or boost gauge on the exhaust. You would need a long enough piece of steel tube for it to be cool enough but thats about it.
Interesting idea, maybe something like the bushings on a motorcycle EXUP valve could be used. They are a sort of softish graphite stuff so seal as well as act as a bearing and can take the heat.
(01-19-2014, 05:02 PM)Gearbound what could be used for exhaust pressure reference, i cant imagine pumping soot into a waste-gate actuator would end well.
Can't see soot in the actuator being a problem, it doesn't pass the gasses it only references them. Same as having a map sensor or boost gauge on the exhaust. You would need a long enough piece of steel tube for it to be cool enough but thats about it.
Interesting idea, maybe something like the bushings on a motorcycle EXUP valve could be used. They are a sort of softish graphite stuff so seal as well as act as a bearing and can take the heat.
raysorenson
01-19-2014, 07:31 PM #12As long as the actuator doesn't leak, there should be no flow, so it should be okay. Use around 6" of metal tubing to tap off the exhaust and use high temp silicone tubing to connect the metal tubing to the actuator, like egr flow sensor hose. The length of metal tubing will dissipate heat from the exhaust manifold and the high temp silicone hose (search for "DPFE hose") will deal with whatever heat gets conducted.
I'm not saying...just asking.
I plan to have a Garrett T4 twinscroll mated to my 617a in a few weeks and this is the only potential flaw I could foresee.
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD - 160k
'06.5 VW Jetta TDI - 230k
'82 MB 300TD - 116k (motor going to raysorenson)
'81 MB 300TD - 195k (parting out)
'71 Jeep DJ5 - diesel conversion project
Is there any concern about the exhaust pressure loading on the turbine blades unevenly and thus causing premature bearing wear?
I'm not saying...just asking.
I plan to have a Garrett T4 twinscroll mated to my 617a in a few weeks and this is the only potential flaw I could foresee.
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD - 160k
'06.5 VW Jetta TDI - 230k
'82 MB 300TD - 116k (motor going to raysorenson)
'81 MB 300TD - 195k (parting out)
'71 Jeep DJ5 - diesel conversion project
If its not inline its out of line
If the actuator was a closed system with no flow it would be fine but i was thinking if you used a Manual boost controller to "tune" in the valve to each scenerio. which would flow (leak) unless you had multiple actuators with different springs pressures.
If its not inline its out of line
(01-19-2014, 09:43 PM)CRD4x4 Is there any concern about the exhaust pressure loading on the turbine blades unevenly and thus causing premature bearing wear?
I'm not saying...just asking.
I plan to have a Garrett T4 twinscroll mated to my 617a in a few weeks and this is the only potential flaw I could foresee.
Can't answer that for sure, but I don't think it should be a problem. I would make sure the gases go nearest the center cartridge tho, because that is where the exhaust wheel is biggest. Kind of like blowing on a pin wheel as a child, blow on the bigger part it spins faster.
A friend of mine that pulls tractors use to weld pieces of metal in a spacer between his manifold and his turbo that directed exhaust gas the the back of the turbine to help him spool it. Because he was spooling a 4.1in compressor wheel with a 585cu in engine
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(01-19-2014, 09:43 PM)CRD4x4 Is there any concern about the exhaust pressure loading on the turbine blades unevenly and thus causing premature bearing wear?
I'm not saying...just asking.
I plan to have a Garrett T4 twinscroll mated to my 617a in a few weeks and this is the only potential flaw I could foresee.
Can't answer that for sure, but I don't think it should be a problem. I would make sure the gases go nearest the center cartridge tho, because that is where the exhaust wheel is biggest. Kind of like blowing on a pin wheel as a child, blow on the bigger part it spins faster.
A friend of mine that pulls tractors use to weld pieces of metal in a spacer between his manifold and his turbo that directed exhaust gas the the back of the turbine to help him spool it. Because he was spooling a 4.1in compressor wheel with a 585cu in engine
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
LiL Micky
DirtDiesel
01-21-2014, 02:04 PM #16as far as what its made from it says on the site. I cant remember what grade but it was stainless. don't know if that helps anybody any.
LiL Micky
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