English 606 into bmw e30 cabriolet

STD Other Projects English 606 into bmw e30 cabriolet

View a Printable Version

0 Vote(s) - 0 Average

Pages (2): 1 2 Next

mat_91

K26-2

32

12-15-2013, 03:01 PM #1

engine mounts

my previous e30 had started to pull out the engine mounts in the subframe with only 150hp so braced up this area, i also double up the plate area around the bolt holes, these shouldnt move anywhere

sadly ive had to loose some oil capacity because of the subframe location
this shouldnt really be a problem

imi using a c220cdi 6 speed gearbox which has a very nice stock gearbox mount sadly it hangs way to low so i had to get creative

[Image: 1456713_10151818217883321_1053972359_n_zpsd7564720.jpg]

throttle activation is through a landrover 200tdi cable with a custom bracket

[Image: 1424583_10151719117203321_1300187462_n_zps9fc454c8.jpg]

i will be using this to cool the charge air should reduce my intake pipe work to about 1ft and one 180 degree turn, along with a vgt turbo i hoping for pretty much no lag

[Image: 1460018_10151784850148321_1443086952_n_zps41ae5a76.jpg]

and finally for tonight the 606 sat in my engine bay

[Image: 1450854_10151783638898321_162655844_n_zps44ed3627.jpg]

if anybody is interested in my own custom e30 suspension system
which involves solid bushed rear end, coilovers, modified ackeman, shorter dampers etc etc i will gladly post but its not really anything to do with Mercedes diesels

thanks for looking mat

This post was last modified: 03-29-2015, 06:33 AM by mat_91.

mat_91

12-15-2013, 03:01 PM #1

Hello fellow Mercedes diesel lovers

Ive finally got some progress worthy of posting

My project idea started over two years ago when i came across a cheap E300 TD which rightfully gave its om606 to the cause, this was before i even had a car worthy of the legendary engine,
so i carried on building my project drive-chain,
fast forward to late this year when i came across a very cheap BMW e30 cab with no engine or gearbox perfect lets start
Sadly theres a long term land rover project taking any garage space so sadly out side for now

engine mounts

my previous e30 had started to pull out the engine mounts in the subframe with only 150hp so braced up this area, i also double up the plate area around the bolt holes, these shouldnt move anywhere

sadly ive had to loose some oil capacity because of the subframe location
this shouldnt really be a problem

imi using a c220cdi 6 speed gearbox which has a very nice stock gearbox mount sadly it hangs way to low so i had to get creative

throttle activation is through a landrover 200tdi cable with a custom bracket

i will be using this to cool the charge air should reduce my intake pipe work to about 1ft and one 180 degree turn, along with a vgt turbo i hoping for pretty much no lag

and finally for tonight the 606 sat in my engine bay

if anybody is interested in my own custom e30 suspension system
which involves solid bushed rear end, coilovers, modified ackeman, shorter dampers etc etc i will gladly post but its not really anything to do with Mercedes diesels

thanks for looking mat

Booster

GT2559V

240

12-17-2013, 04:37 AM #2

Please put details of suspension, nice to see a full build. How was the gear box to fit on 606? Was it expensive?

Where are you in the uk?

Good luck with the build mate, will be great by the looks of things!

Booster

12-17-2013, 04:37 AM #2

muuris

OM605

318

12-17-2013, 09:12 AM #3

Nice build, love both the chassis and the engine.

What are the engine and gearbox mounts? They look like they're going to give vibes. The cdi tranny's original mount is very, very flexible and soft. I had one custom mount on 606 tranny but had too bad vibes so I changed it. Also I had the same story with similar through-bolt-style motor mounts in jeep. From my experience, MB originals are best in comfort, BMW originals are a good compromise of comfort and durability.

What vgt are you going to use? "Pretty much no lag" sounds unrealistic with a single turbo, unless power goals are at 300hp tops.

muuris

12-17-2013, 09:12 AM #3

JB3

Superturbo

1,795

12-17-2013, 09:31 AM #4

awesome job! looking forward to updates.

X2 on post everything related to the swap, that stuff is all super interesting as a complete build. I doubt anyone here is a stickler for MB content only, no concours people as far as I can tell. Big Grin

Its all part of the entire job, including things not strictly related to the engine

1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van

JB3

12-17-2013, 09:31 AM #4

1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van

mat_91

K26-2

32

12-17-2013, 02:23 PM #5

cheers for the kind words, im located at Nottingham
The engine mounts are land rover 200tdi big gits they are and the gearbox mounst are bmw e30 m20 engine mounts may swap to range rover v8 engine mounts as i ran these in my last e30 and they worked good i hate replacing worn/inferior parts so i over build/spec everything, as for vibrations im not bothered in the slightest as its main job is a drifting, i just dont want the dam thing to move around,

the vgt is a gt23v comes off a Mercedes e320cdi, its not a big turbo by any stretch but im only running a 6mm stock injection pump for now so power is limited by that,

and i will do a complete build then

mat_91

12-17-2013, 02:23 PM #5

muuris

OM605

318

12-17-2013, 03:10 PM #6

I used E32 tranny mounts for merc auto tranny, they worked ok.

Ah, GT23v will definitely spool without noticeable lag, I bet it could be even better without vnt vanes as it would have less backpressure. Just install exhaust gas (back)pressure gauge so you know your boost/backpressure ratio remains sensible. With 6mm elements you should be fine with around 1,2bar boost to stay on the compressor map, to get fuel burned and to avoid excessive backpressure.

606 has very weak exhaust valve springs and they don't like backpressure at all. With small vnt and wrong settings you'll easily end up in a situation with less than 1,5bar boost and over 3bar backpressure, which will result in engine stalling due to exhaust valves floating.

muuris

12-17-2013, 03:10 PM #6

mat_91

K26-2

32

12-17-2013, 03:15 PM #7

[Image: 945595_517899774923764_1921547691_n_zpsd73b9bb5.jpg]

when i modified the hubs i also shortened the dampers by about 90mm
giving me lots of bump travel back improving handling yet again, also converted to coilovers so i can dial in the spring weights, thats pretty much the front end covered

Out rear i converted the subframe bushes from rubber to steel also lifting the beam at the same time this not only stops the subframe moving around giving bad handling/grip, by moving the subframe up it massively reduces static camber/toe that lowered e30 suffer from, also camber/toe gain in suspension movement is massively reduced,
this is after over 10k miles and a good few hard drift days, still like brand new, a scrub up and a fresh coat of paint and there ready to go again poly bushes wouldnt do that at 3x the cost

[Image: 1393459_10151682683318321_1268938506_n_zpscbce7f1e.jpg]

Diff wise i was using a 3.64:1 med case e30 diff with the petrol engine, i am trying to source a e34 tds diff which is much stronger and has a much nicer 2.5:1 ratio
i also swapped to a e36 double wing diff cover replacing the e30s stock single wing again much stronger, a custom bracket was fabbed up

[Image: 2c7e0ce0-d3b0-4926-b7e9-c1a9a8182a78_zpsfe64e223.jpg]

i am very happy with the suspension system but some improvements can be made, all thats really needed up front is some stiffer springs to combat the extra weight of this 606, but i would like to make and fit something along the lines of these hub adapters fromw wisefab but thicker,

this would drop my lower arms to a better angle and also give more clearance to the chassis legs for the track rods and i could play with the ackerman angle easier
out back the system works petty well but it desperately need more bump travel which is my main goal once the car is driving about and road legal, also figure out how to dial in some more grip,

the improvements ive made have turned my previous e30 in to something of a little weapon so i can wait to drive this e30 with lots more power/torque
ive probably forgot some thing as thats about 1yrs worth of suspension development so i will update if i remember something in the future

thanks for reading

mat_91

12-17-2013, 03:15 PM #7

The gearbox was from a 2002 (i think) c220cdi i payed £275 which seems about the going rate for a low mileage one, it bolts straight up to the 606 althought a custom flywheel/clutch combo needs making

As interest was shown with the rest of my build i thought i would bring you up to date quick, you will have to bare with me as its a lot to take in, there is also alot of different bmw model/year parts that are only referenced to bmw chassis numbers sorry about this,

ill start at the front, this being a drift car means steering lock needs to be improved i started with swapping to a e36 m3 rack this takes the e30s 4.1 lock to lock to a better 2.9/3.2 i cant remember, also made and fitted was 5mm lock spacers, i then modified the hubs to give 0 degrees ackerman and quicker steering results are pretty darn good
i only have pictures of my last e30 due to not running the vert yet

when i modified the hubs i also shortened the dampers by about 90mm
giving me lots of bump travel back improving handling yet again, also converted to coilovers so i can dial in the spring weights, thats pretty much the front end covered

Out rear i converted the subframe bushes from rubber to steel also lifting the beam at the same time this not only stops the subframe moving around giving bad handling/grip, by moving the subframe up it massively reduces static camber/toe that lowered e30 suffer from, also camber/toe gain in suspension movement is massively reduced,
this is after over 10k miles and a good few hard drift days, still like brand new, a scrub up and a fresh coat of paint and there ready to go again poly bushes wouldnt do that at 3x the cost

Diff wise i was using a 3.64:1 med case e30 diff with the petrol engine, i am trying to source a e34 tds diff which is much stronger and has a much nicer 2.5:1 ratio
i also swapped to a e36 double wing diff cover replacing the e30s stock single wing again much stronger, a custom bracket was fabbed up

i am very happy with the suspension system but some improvements can be made, all thats really needed up front is some stiffer springs to combat the extra weight of this 606, but i would like to make and fit something along the lines of these hub adapters fromw wisefab but thicker,

this would drop my lower arms to a better angle and also give more clearance to the chassis legs for the track rods and i could play with the ackerman angle easier
out back the system works petty well but it desperately need more bump travel which is my main goal once the car is driving about and road legal, also figure out how to dial in some more grip,

the improvements ive made have turned my previous e30 in to something of a little weapon so i can wait to drive this e30 with lots more power/torque
ive probably forgot some thing as thats about 1yrs worth of suspension development so i will update if i remember something in the future

thanks for reading

simonm16p6

K26-2

43

12-18-2013, 02:12 PM #8

(12-15-2013, 03:01 PM)mat_91 i will be using this to cool the charge air should reduce my intake pipe work to about 1ft and one 180 degree turn, along with a vgt turbo i hoping for pretty much no lag

I'll be very interested to see what you do with the Jaguar charge cooler, I have the same one sat in my garage which I want to attach to an OM605 I have. I'm just stuck on finding a spare OM606 inlet manifold to hack up and a TIG welder to stick it all back together with!

1971 Rover P6 2000 project OM605 compound charged conversion
1975 Land Rover series 3 OM606 project

simonm16p6

12-18-2013, 02:12 PM #8

(12-15-2013, 03:01 PM)mat_91 i will be using this to cool the charge air should reduce my intake pipe work to about 1ft and one 180 degree turn, along with a vgt turbo i hoping for pretty much no lag

1971 Rover P6 2000 project OM605 compound charged conversion
1975 Land Rover series 3 OM606 project

mat_91

K26-2

32

12-18-2013, 04:41 PM #9

Im hoping to get that bit done next pay day so shouldnt be to long

This post was last modified: 12-20-2013, 04:08 AM by mat_91.

mat_91

12-18-2013, 04:41 PM #9

Im hoping to get that bit done next pay day so shouldnt be to long

simonm16p6

K26-2

43

12-18-2013, 06:00 PM #10

(12-18-2013, 04:41 PM)mat_91 Im hoping to get that bit done next pay day so should be to long

Do you have a plan, weld it directly to the inlet manifold or remote from the inlet?

1971 Rover P6 2000 project OM605 compound charged conversion
1975 Land Rover series 3 OM606 project

simonm16p6

12-18-2013, 06:00 PM #10

(12-18-2013, 04:41 PM)mat_91 Im hoping to get that bit done next pay day so should be to long

Do you have a plan, weld it directly to the inlet manifold or remote from the inlet?

1971 Rover P6 2000 project OM605 compound charged conversion
1975 Land Rover series 3 OM606 project

mat_91

K26-2

32

12-20-2013, 04:07 AM #11

I am going to weld the cooler to the inlet manifold, same as it is stock,
im not sure what coolant radiator im going to use for the charge cool system i need to measure how much space i have, as for pump im going to use a bosch charge cool pump what the jag uses in stock form, there seems to be a uprated one on ebay for them so i will likely use that

mat_91

12-20-2013, 04:07 AM #11

mat_91

K26-2

32

12-26-2013, 01:01 PM #12

Being as ive had 2 days of doing nothing and now im truely bored, I decided to crack on with getting the gearbox mount finished, I am very happy how its turned out, I dont think i will give me any problems

[Image: 1513287_10151838391783321_709794841_n_zpsec215978.jpg]

[Image: 1525705_10151838391728321_1601716629_n_zpsf572b5d0.jpg]

Up next i think ill tackle the sump guard/radiator mounts

mat_91

12-26-2013, 01:01 PM #12

DiseaselWeasel

Holset

420

12-28-2013, 07:00 AM #13

Have a look for MB W163 ML - they have a smal, long low-temperature watercooler for the WIC Smile

http://www.ebay.de/itm/161020008221

This post was last modified: 12-28-2013, 07:00 AM by DiseaselWeasel.

____________________________________

'88 300CD Turbo Coupé - OM603

DiseaselWeasel

12-28-2013, 07:00 AM #13

Have a look for MB W163 ML - they have a smal, long low-temperature watercooler for the WIC Smile http://www.ebay.de/itm/161020008221

____________________________________

'88 300CD Turbo Coupé - OM603

mat_91

K26-2

32

12-28-2013, 11:50 AM #14

That looks a good size but i want to make this setup as efficient as i can, so im going to fit the biggest core i can, i have been thinking of using a Aircon condesnor for three reasons (1) size can get them very large, (2) very efficient usually very well finned (3) Pipe diameter usually there are about the same diameter as what is on the WIC so no pressure drop going to bigger pipes.
I just need to visit the breakers yard with a tape measure and pick the best one

This post was last modified: 12-28-2013, 11:51 AM by mat_91.

mat_91

12-28-2013, 11:50 AM #14

mat_91

K26-2

32

01-03-2014, 04:47 PM #15

[Image: 1525623_10151843156088321_1735015166_n_zps870a4d0a.jpg]

Then i managed to get to my local scrap yard and have a wonder around with a tape measure for a air con condenser to use as a radiator for my air-water cooler, a mk4 golf fitted perfectly all i need to do is weld up the stock pipe work holes and weld on some barb fittings,

[Image: 1510945_10151853364133321_409716600_n_zps59df8c73.jpg]

Shortly after my c220cdi prop shaft turned up from ebay, so rightfully the first thing i did was cut the end off and chuck the rest away, ive decided to use the standard c220 propshaft guido in a short term logic, mainly as its cheap,easy and should do just fine to get it on the road and working then later i will upgrade it, now ive got the measurements correct all thats needed is both ends chucking in the lathe and welding up

[Image: 1525514_10151851940148321_197483997_n_zpsf60043d1.jpg]

[Image: 1486573_10151843158073321_232832311_n_zpsc6c2730e.jpg]

That is the rear coolant take off from the head, ive decided to do away with the stock oil filter housing as to keep it would of required modifying the brake booster/master cylinder and the plastic heater matrix, as a result i no longer needed the very long stock coolant pipe so made it much shorter and welded a bead around to help keep the pipe on, as for replacing the oil filter, me and a friend have started on a relocation kit which will locate the filter next to the sump plug making oil changes easier and cleaner

and lastly for tonight
because om606 but mainly to check everything still fits

[Image: 379728_10151853364183321_680073897_n_zpsfaba39ec.jpg]

mat_91

01-03-2014, 04:47 PM #15

Manged some more progress even with the bad and widely changing weather were having at the moment, firstly now the engine is mounted i fitted my drift-works super-cool radiator, which ironically is made for a Toyota soarer but doesnt fit a soarer but fits a bmw e30 with a om606 like it was meant to as a result i got it at a bargain price £69 inc p+p looking back i should of bought at least another two.

Then i managed to get to my local scrap yard and have a wonder around with a tape measure for a air con condenser to use as a radiator for my air-water cooler, a mk4 golf fitted perfectly all i need to do is weld up the stock pipe work holes and weld on some barb fittings,

Shortly after my c220cdi prop shaft turned up from ebay, so rightfully the first thing i did was cut the end off and chuck the rest away, ive decided to use the standard c220 propshaft guido in a short term logic, mainly as its cheap,easy and should do just fine to get it on the road and working then later i will upgrade it, now ive got the measurements correct all thats needed is both ends chucking in the lathe and welding up

That is the rear coolant take off from the head, ive decided to do away with the stock oil filter housing as to keep it would of required modifying the brake booster/master cylinder and the plastic heater matrix, as a result i no longer needed the very long stock coolant pipe so made it much shorter and welded a bead around to help keep the pipe on, as for replacing the oil filter, me and a friend have started on a relocation kit which will locate the filter next to the sump plug making oil changes easier and cleaner

and lastly for tonight
because om606 but mainly to check everything still fits

raysorenson

Superturbo

1,162

01-03-2014, 08:16 PM #16

I've been stalking the idea of a condenser IC radiator. Restriction is what worries me.

Parallel flow condensers are the most efficient design and more than 30% more efficient than tube fin type condensers. It looks like P flow is what you scored at the JY.

P flow condensers have baffles in the end tanks to route the water through the condenser fins more than once. If restriction becomes a problem, you could saw open the end tanks to remove the baffles. This will reduce the number of passes the water has to make through the condenser from 3, 4 or 5, down to just 1 or 2 passes, depending on whether or not the inlet/outlet tubes are on the same side.

raysorenson

01-03-2014, 08:16 PM #16

mat_91

K26-2

32

01-04-2014, 03:25 AM #17

It is a parallel core but I didn't think or expect it be multiple pass, I'll have to have a look this afternoon, my plan was just to weld a barb fitting on each end tank so still parallel but If it's multiple pass then ill have to rethink the locations, I'm hoping it will be very effective as it's 3x as large as a normal air to water radiator, once I've welded on the barb fittings I don't think there should be any restrictions as

mat_91

01-04-2014, 03:25 AM #17

mat_91

K26-2

32

01-04-2014, 04:47 PM #18

started making coolant pipes this one was rather easy for once

Started on making the Jag air to water cooler fit, its fits fairly well although an extra inch in length would of made it fit the 606 manifold brilliantly, some pipe work is going to be need for cylinder 1+6 to get the best flow

mat_91

01-04-2014, 04:47 PM #18

Well raysorenson you are correct its a triple pass, Im very glad you mentioned that as i would of probably missed that and with my old plan would have used about 6 rows of the cooler, so thank you very much,

As a result of that information my barb fitting locations have changed im just going to stick them where the stock locations are, it will create extra pipe work but nothing major, the slight angle is needed to clear the headlight, i am thinking this angle may effect flow though so i may weld up the standard hole and move it further down although it cant go much lower

started making coolant pipes this one was rather easy for once

Started on making the Jag air to water cooler fit, its fits fairly well although an extra inch in length would of made it fit the 606 manifold brilliantly, some pipe work is going to be need for cylinder 1+6 to get the best flow

muuris

OM605

318

01-07-2014, 02:03 AM #19

In the picture your heater hoses are wrong, the lower one is the heater core inlet and upper goes to thermostat housing. If installed wrong, the heater perfomance is poor and air gets trapped in very easily, resulting in thermostat not opening in time and engine overheating.

Intake/cooler looks good!

muuris

01-07-2014, 02:03 AM #19

mat_91

K26-2

32

01-07-2014, 03:32 PM #20

Thanks for that I just bunged it on as it will fit both pipes, I was going to check against another e30 before the final fit out

Cheers

mat_91

01-07-2014, 03:32 PM #20

Thanks for that I just bunged it on as it will fit both pipes, I was going to check against another e30 before the final fit out

Cheers

erling66

SuperDieselVan

294

01-08-2014, 02:47 AM #21

(01-07-2014, 02:03 AM)muuris In the picture your heater hoses are wrong, the lower one is the heater core inlet and upper goes to thermostat housing. If installed wrong, the heater perfomance is poor and air gets trapped in very easily, resulting in thermostat not opening in time and engine overheating.

Intake/cooler looks good!

Thank you Muuris Smile

I did the same mistake, very easy to forget that the heater is not to be hooked up the same way as the radiator.

Nice project Mat, everything looks to be build very strong.

erling66

01-08-2014, 02:47 AM #21

(01-07-2014, 02:03 AM)muuris In the picture your heater hoses are wrong, the lower one is the heater core inlet and upper goes to thermostat housing. If installed wrong, the heater perfomance is poor and air gets trapped in very easily, resulting in thermostat not opening in time and engine overheating.

Intake/cooler looks good!

Thank you Muuris Smile

I did the same mistake, very easy to forget that the heater is not to be hooked up the same way as the radiator.

Nice project Mat, everything looks to be build very strong.

Tito

Holset

354

01-08-2014, 04:33 AM #22

I sometimes switch the hoses when the heating becomes low. So it flushes the heater the other way and gets rid of any stuck debris. Then put new coolant in it. Never had overheating problems.

Tito

01-08-2014, 04:33 AM #22

I sometimes switch the hoses when the heating becomes low. So it flushes the heater the other way and gets rid of any stuck debris. Then put new coolant in it. Never had overheating problems.

mat_91

K26-2

32

01-08-2014, 05:48 PM #23

(01-08-2014, 02:47 AM)erling66
(01-07-2014, 02:03 AM)muuris In the picture your heater hoses are wrong, the lower one is the heater core inlet and upper goes to thermostat housing. If installed wrong, the heater perfomance is poor and air gets trapped in very easily, resulting in thermostat not opening in time and engine overheating.

Intake/cooler looks good!

Thank you Muuris I did the same mistake, very easy to forget that the heater is not to be hooked up the same way as the radiator.

Nice project Mat, everything looks to be build very strong.

Cheers I over build everything I just don't want any failures specially on custom bits I've made, I intend to do many many miles so slightly heavy is okay in my eyes

mat_91

01-08-2014, 05:48 PM #23

(01-08-2014, 02:47 AM)erling66
(01-07-2014, 02:03 AM)muuris In the picture your heater hoses are wrong, the lower one is the heater core inlet and upper goes to thermostat housing. If installed wrong, the heater perfomance is poor and air gets trapped in very easily, resulting in thermostat not opening in time and engine overheating.

Intake/cooler looks good!

Thank you Muuris I did the same mistake, very easy to forget that the heater is not to be hooked up the same way as the radiator.

Nice project Mat, everything looks to be build very strong.

Cheers I over build everything I just don't want any failures specially on custom bits I've made, I intend to do many many miles so slightly heavy is okay in my eyes

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

02-25-2015, 11:12 AM #24

Bump?

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

02-25-2015, 11:12 AM #24

Bump?

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

mat_91

K26-2

32

03-18-2015, 07:43 AM #25

I think its about time i updated this thread
Its been on the road for around 3 weeks now, problem free
Sadly this is the only recent photo, been having to much fun driving it, sat next to my other toy
i shall do another decent post when i can find time

[Image: IMG_20150307_102723_zpslxpbi4a4.jpg]

mat_91

03-18-2015, 07:43 AM #25

Ksteen2

Holset

304

03-20-2015, 03:56 PM #26

looking mean Wink

1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost

Ksteen2

03-20-2015, 03:56 PM #26

looking mean Wink

DanielK

Big Plans, No Clue

98

03-21-2015, 02:16 AM #27

I want to swap an OM606 into my E34. Stop inspiring me or I might do something drastic.

DanielK

03-21-2015, 02:16 AM #27

I want to swap an OM606 into my E34. Stop inspiring me or I might do something drastic.

mat_91

K26-2

32

03-29-2015, 07:13 AM #28

(03-21-2015, 02:16 AM)DanielK I want to swap an OM606 into my E34. Stop inspiring me or I might do something drastic.

You wont like this post then Big Grin

Time for a wet sunday update.
Ill start with engine mounts, i decided i didnt like my first attempt so made these, much stronger/cleaner, vibrations arent nearly as bad as you would expect

Chassis side before a good clean up

The c220cdi 6speed gearbox fits like a stock gearbox should

For now im running a sprinter SM flywheel and clutch kit, as they are very cheap and im not running mega power for a while

Mercedes flange meet bmw propshaft

Im running the stock turbo for now, i cant decide on what to go with turbo wise and im rumming the stock 5.5mm pump for now, being as a turbo upgrade maybe a while i built a quick exhaust

With the help of some very good friends, we manged to knock out the rollcgae in one long night Cool

[Image: IMG_20150111_140449_zpsy1neajj0.jpg]

Proper fitment, who needs gussets

B-pillar feet mounts, i really like how these came out, press break ftw

Wilwood pedal box fitted up

Body work needs some attention, still looks fairly cool

This post was last modified: 03-29-2015, 07:28 AM by mat_91.

mat_91

03-29-2015, 07:13 AM #28

(03-21-2015, 02:16 AM)DanielK I want to swap an OM606 into my E34. Stop inspiring me or I might do something drastic.

You wont like this post then Big Grin

Time for a wet sunday update.
Ill start with engine mounts, i decided i didnt like my first attempt so made these, much stronger/cleaner, vibrations arent nearly as bad as you would expect

Chassis side before a good clean up

The c220cdi 6speed gearbox fits like a stock gearbox should

For now im running a sprinter SM flywheel and clutch kit, as they are very cheap and im not running mega power for a while

Mercedes flange meet bmw propshaft

Im running the stock turbo for now, i cant decide on what to go with turbo wise and im rumming the stock 5.5mm pump for now, being as a turbo upgrade maybe a while i built a quick exhaust

With the help of some very good friends, we manged to knock out the rollcgae in one long night Cool

Proper fitment, who needs gussets

B-pillar feet mounts, i really like how these came out, press break ftw

Wilwood pedal box fitted up

Body work needs some attention, still looks fairly cool

mat_91

K26-2

32

03-29-2015, 07:35 AM #29

Out rear, came together nicely. E36 double wing diff cover with solid mounts same on the subframe, best thing forthe rear of a e30

Some freshly machined bits, body lift and pto winch bit for my pajero and some one off fuel/vac pipe adapters for the bmw

Rollcage all painted

[Image: IMG_20150113_194536_zpsmo7j1qoc.jpg]

Engine bay looking pretty tidy apart from the tiny turbo Confused

This post was last modified: 03-29-2015, 07:51 AM by mat_91.

mat_91

03-29-2015, 07:35 AM #29

Out rear, came together nicely. E36 double wing diff cover with solid mounts same on the subframe, best thing forthe rear of a e30

Some freshly machined bits, body lift and pto winch bit for my pajero and some one off fuel/vac pipe adapters for the bmw

Rollcage all painted

Engine bay looking pretty tidy apart from the tiny turbo Confused

DanielK

Big Plans, No Clue

98

03-29-2015, 05:41 PM #30

Awesome progress!

DanielK

03-29-2015, 05:41 PM #30

Awesome progress!

Booster

GT2559V

240

03-30-2015, 04:59 AM #31

Cant believe how this has turned out, You just need a 8mm Pump and big turbo to finish it off!!

Booster

03-30-2015, 04:59 AM #31

Cant believe how this has turned out, You just need a 8mm Pump and big turbo to finish it off!!

mat_91

K26-2

32

05-27-2015, 01:54 PM #32

I have also maxed out the 5.5 mm pump and pinned the turbo, so power is up and much to my surprise the sprinter clutch is already crying enough its not slipped yet but beating on its makes it smell so its only a matter of time

Which brings me on to gearbox / clutch upgrades
I've always wanted a sequential gearbox sadly even now that's miles out of my price range
So that leads me the thought of going back to a Mercedes auto gearbox with hacked controller, although the thought of putting electronics on my fully mechanical diesel annoys me greatly, what are peoples thoughts

Then I'll be able to upgrade to a bigger injection pump and bigger turbo

mat_91

05-27-2015, 01:54 PM #32

Time for a update, be it a small one

Nothing really major in turns of progress I've just been using it, ive just past 3000miles in it but for an old petrol fuel pump failing its been remarkably reliable, thankfully I've since fitted the 606 mechanical lift pump to the 603 pump, fully mechanical diesel ftw

I have now fitted a electric fan and cut holes in the bumper as it was starting to cook at times
That was a 10 pounds of crap into a 5 pound bag moment, it is tight under there

I have also maxed out the 5.5 mm pump and pinned the turbo, so power is up and much to my surprise the sprinter clutch is already crying enough its not slipped yet but beating on its makes it smell so its only a matter of time

Which brings me on to gearbox / clutch upgrades
I've always wanted a sequential gearbox sadly even now that's miles out of my price range
So that leads me the thought of going back to a Mercedes auto gearbox with hacked controller, although the thought of putting electronics on my fully mechanical diesel annoys me greatly, what are peoples thoughts

Then I'll be able to upgrade to a bigger injection pump and bigger turbo

hooblah

Holset

401

05-27-2015, 02:33 PM #33

Very interesting. I wish I could weld as good as you! Where about are you?

Regarding the clutch and gearbox, do you reckon the box will handle more power? And if you were to keep it what clutch would you change to?

hooblah

05-27-2015, 02:33 PM #33

mat_91

K26-2

32

05-27-2015, 03:06 PM #34

Unfortunately I can't claim some of the welding as mine, all the vertical and cage welds where done by a friend, pretty much everything else was me, he has taught me well

And regards the gearbox, it would probably be a twin plate clutch of some manufacturer, my biggest worry with doing that is this gearbox was made to have a dualmass flywheel, meaning there was alot less harshness going into the gearbox, my thoughts are that could kill the box
I don't really know but I don't want to spend out on a clutch upgrade and find out
I read on here somewhere ages ago that one feller was running a 606 with twin plate clutch at 400hp and had been reliable so it's anybodys guess

mat_91

05-27-2015, 03:06 PM #34

muuris

OM605

318

05-28-2015, 12:26 AM #35

Looking good, basic stuff done so just turn up the power now! Big Grin

I used CDI box with W202 C250td stock clutch plate and SRE 765 pressure plate, no problems in 1800kg E32 with 450hp. The box rattles at idle, but that's what they all do on single mass fw.

This post was last modified: 05-28-2015, 12:27 AM by muuris.

muuris

05-28-2015, 12:26 AM #35

Looking good, basic stuff done so just turn up the power now! Big Grin

I used CDI box with W202 C250td stock clutch plate and SRE 765 pressure plate, no problems in 1800kg E32 with 450hp. The box rattles at idle, but that's what they all do on single mass fw.

hooblah

Holset

401

05-28-2015, 05:12 AM #36

Is that with the sprinter flywheel? What causes the box to rattle?

hooblah

05-28-2015, 05:12 AM #36

Is that with the sprinter flywheel? What causes the box to rattle?

muuris

OM605

318

05-28-2015, 06:45 AM #37

No, that was with custom-made fw. Vibrations from the engine and all the play and clearances in gearbox together make the rattle.

muuris

05-28-2015, 06:45 AM #37

No, that was with custom-made fw. Vibrations from the engine and all the play and clearances in gearbox together make the rattle.

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

05-28-2015, 07:51 AM #38

722.6 auto box and an Olefejer controller from here ftw?

You can set the shifts to be hard and fast then you would effectively have a bomb proof sequential box.

I had ideas of making my own sequential-style shifter with microswitches to operate the controller, as I don't like pabbles..

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

05-28-2015, 07:51 AM #38

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

hooblah

Holset

401

05-28-2015, 09:20 AM #39

(05-28-2015, 06:45 AM)muuris No, that was with custom-made fw. Vibrations from the engine and all the play and clearances in gearbox together make the rattle.

Hmm so what stops this happening with a dual mass setup?

hooblah

05-28-2015, 09:20 AM #39

(05-28-2015, 06:45 AM)muuris No, that was with custom-made fw. Vibrations from the engine and all the play and clearances in gearbox together make the rattle.

Hmm so what stops this happening with a dual mass setup?

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

05-29-2015, 08:47 AM #40

(05-28-2015, 09:20 AM)hooblah
(05-28-2015, 06:45 AM)muuris No, that was with custom-made fw. Vibrations from the engine and all the play and clearances in gearbox together make the rattle.

Hmm so what stops this happening with a dual mass setup?

I believe the two 'masses' are sprung together which dampens the drive differences between the engine-gearbox. If it were a rubber flex disk I think it would be called a cush-drive.

This post was last modified: 05-29-2015, 08:47 AM by Hario'.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

05-29-2015, 08:47 AM #40

(05-28-2015, 09:20 AM)hooblah
(05-28-2015, 06:45 AM)muuris No, that was with custom-made fw. Vibrations from the engine and all the play and clearances in gearbox together make the rattle.

Hmm so what stops this happening with a dual mass setup?

I believe the two 'masses' are sprung together which dampens the drive differences between the engine-gearbox. If it were a rubber flex disk I think it would be called a cush-drive.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

mat_91

K26-2

32

05-29-2015, 03:53 PM #41

Muuris, I think I will probably go down that route, it would be the cheapest/easiest and skim the flywheel down for more clamping force
Also my gearbox is silent when in nutural but quite noisy in 5/6th if at low speeds

Dual mass flywheels are 2 piece with a big spring inside which removes alot of the vibrations

mat_91

05-29-2015, 03:53 PM #41

mat_91

K26-2

32

09-05-2015, 09:43 AM #42

Time for a update ?

Not much has happened really been offroading to much Big Grin

But I did actually go drifting for the first time in this car
It was very wet but a cool private day at Birmingham wheels with lots a seat time

[Image: FB_IMG_1441378618447_zpsd4xaogkb.jpg]

[Image: FB_IMG_1441378614066_zpskolatz0g.jpg]

It did very well, didn't have any real problems took the bonnet off to extend each run out to 6-8 laps before coolant temps got to high

This winter it will be getting more power and alot of tidying to the body work

mat_91

09-05-2015, 09:43 AM #42

Time for a update ?

Not much has happened really been offroading to much Big Grin

But I did actually go drifting for the first time in this car
It was very wet but a cool private day at Birmingham wheels with lots a seat time

It did very well, didn't have any real problems took the bonnet off to extend each run out to 6-8 laps before coolant temps got to high

This winter it will be getting more power and alot of tidying to the body work

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

09-07-2015, 07:36 AM #43

And more fans by the sound of it.

This post was last modified: 09-07-2015, 07:36 AM by Hario'.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

09-07-2015, 07:36 AM #43

And more fans by the sound of it.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

mat_91

K26-2

32

09-12-2015, 01:24 PM #44

(09-07-2015, 07:36 AM)Hario And more fans by the sound of it.

Maybe but space is very very tight on e30s with an intercooler up front,
I think using the stock Turbo/manifold and sitting on the govner in 3rd was mostly the temperature problem as it would cool down very quickly and never normally overheats

mat_91

09-12-2015, 01:24 PM #44

(09-07-2015, 07:36 AM)Hario And more fans by the sound of it.

mat_91

K26-2

32

10-04-2015, 03:40 PM #45

I am just missing the 6bt injection pump and injector pipes which a om604 should supply at lest 4 of them 2 will have to be custom unfortunately, so that's what I'm currently working on accruing and then a big ass Turbo Big Grin

D

Other than that not much to report

Sat next to another diesel e30, only a m51

[/quote]

mat_91

10-04-2015, 03:40 PM #45

I thought this was worth updating, since I'm going to be using a Bosch VE injection pump from a Cummins 6bt,
unbelievable Mercedes have already made all the conversion parts and I have managed to find them

Ignore the electronic pump is basically a mechanical ve

I am just missing the 6bt injection pump and injector pipes which a om604 should supply at lest 4 of them 2 will have to be custom unfortunately, so that's what I'm currently working on accruing and then a big ass Turbo Big Grin D

Other than that not much to report

Sat next to another diesel e30, only a m51

[/quote]

muuris

OM605

318

10-04-2015, 11:52 PM #46

Why would you want VE especially on 6-cyl engine? Limits the power and max revs..

You'll most likely need to change the cam plate from (i.e.) tds VE pump. Some 10 years ago I built one BMW M21 engine with 6bt 12mm distributor head and decided also to use 6bt cam plate. I didn't realize the difference in profile between IDI (M21, OM606) and DI (6bt), the thing shot flames from the exhaust manifold and sounded bloody awful. Took the pump apart, changed back to original cam plate and it ran ok.

Also, double check the stiffness of distributor return springs. They gave me the next problems as they weren't stiff enough and distributor started to lose it's effective stroke length at 4000rpms on engine (max power at 3900, no power at all at 4300). I spent quite some time figuring out what the problem was and made a solid governor to be sure that injection quantity wouldn't go down at any point, still the problem persisted. I shimmed the springs to give ~50% more force at the end of stroke of the distributor, then it revved happily to 6500 (but of course made nowhere near as much power as inline-pumped OM60x).

muuris

10-04-2015, 11:52 PM #46

mat_91

K26-2

32

10-05-2015, 01:47 AM #47

I've helped fit a 6bt pump to a idi nissan patrol, apart from playing with the timing it had no problems, but it does only rev the same as the 6bt,

Max rpm is a little worrying but there is so much adjustment in a VE it should be doable, 6krpm is on 4 cylinder pumps

Max power is not what I want 300hp

if it doesn't work I've not lost alot, I have £100 in the adapter and probably same again for a used pump,

Main reason I want to do this is I just prefer the VE

mat_91

10-05-2015, 01:47 AM #47

muuris

OM605

318

10-05-2015, 02:13 AM #48

The rpm problem has nothing to do with adjustments, it's just that the single rotating piston doesn't have enough time to do (6x) the job (of inline pump piston) on higher injection quantities. That's why 6krpm is easy on 4-cyl and why I needed those shims on distributor spring on 6-cyl. I doesn't completely solve the problem though, but helped a bit.

You can get 300hp but it would be realistic at 4000-4500rpms. When it comes to choosing a turbo, high revs with no power are meaningless, therefore I wouldn't pick too big turbo, as it only compromises low end for nothing. ~1 bar boost / 30lbs is what that pump can realistically supply fuel for.

Don't get me wrong, it's interesting to see how your decision works even though I wouldn't do it myself. I prefer inline pump just because it can be built to do the job, no matter how many cylinders or how much revs. If I was to build M21 again, I'd put a Merc pump in it Big Grin

muuris

10-05-2015, 02:13 AM #48

mat_91

K26-2

32

10-06-2015, 07:05 AM #49

murris i understand it asking alot from a VE but hopefully it should be workable,
New projects ideas are slowly working into the back of my brain so i may end up not fitting it sadly

mat_91

10-06-2015, 07:05 AM #49

murris i understand it asking alot from a VE but hopefully it should be workable,
New projects ideas are slowly working into the back of my brain so i may end up not fitting it sadly

hooblah

Holset

401

10-11-2015, 02:47 PM #50

Loving the work. How do you find nvh with the custom engine mounts?
And didn't I just see this up for sale on driftworks?

hooblah

10-11-2015, 02:47 PM #50

Loving the work. How do you find nvh with the custom engine mounts?
And didn't I just see this up for sale on driftworks?

Pages (2): 1 2 Next

View a Printable Version

0 Vote(s) - 0 Average

Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)