Oil cooler hose fixes.
Oil cooler hose fixes.
11-26-2013, 04:16 PM
#1
I will be taking this thing on a trip to the boonies for Thanksgiving and need a quick fix!
Can I just clamp off the upper hose?
Or is there someway to plug it at the oil filter?
I did not know these hoses were in such bad shape, and they will both be replaced when I get the chance.
But it's winter right now, and I do not think I will be needing the oil cooler as much as I need my oil!
Any suggestions?
This post was last modified: 11-29-2013, 07:37 PM by Odd Fellow.
*DD*
1983 300SD 226K Miles
*in repairs*
1991 Plymouth Laser RS 210K miles
(Needs Cam Angle Sensor)
Odd Fellow
11-26-2013, 04:16 PM #1Title has it! my 83 is leaking like a sieve. The bottom hose on the oil cooler is leaking right at the crimp fitting.
I will be taking this thing on a trip to the boonies for Thanksgiving and need a quick fix!
Can I just clamp off the upper hose?
Or is there someway to plug it at the oil filter?
I did not know these hoses were in such bad shape, and they will both be replaced when I get the chance.
But it's winter right now, and I do not think I will be needing the oil cooler as much as I need my oil!
Any suggestions?
*DD*
1983 300SD 226K Miles
*in repairs*
1991 Plymouth Laser RS 210K miles
(Needs Cam Angle Sensor)
11-26-2013, 04:52 PM
#2
The bitch of that oil cooler is that it's aluminium. I've had best success unscrewing the fitting using a pipe wrench in the reverse fashion. I mean where it doesn't clamp down on the fitting while you turn it. Or maybe a big wrench that fits if you have that.
Is it a problem with a metal fitting? or metal line?
There's no rubber in those lines at all is it?
Maybe a huge application on jb weld on there is the cure.. You may end up stranding yourself if you drive way far out and lose all the oil. It's expensive to try and fill it up too, especially when it wont stay in.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I kinda think you need the cooler even in winter.
The bitch of that oil cooler is that it's aluminium. I've had best success unscrewing the fitting using a pipe wrench in the reverse fashion. I mean where it doesn't clamp down on the fitting while you turn it. Or maybe a big wrench that fits if you have that.
Is it a problem with a metal fitting? or metal line?
There's no rubber in those lines at all is it?
Maybe a huge application on jb weld on there is the cure.. You may end up stranding yourself if you drive way far out and lose all the oil. It's expensive to try and fill it up too, especially when it wont stay in.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
11-26-2013, 07:36 PM
#3
(11-26-2013, 04:16 PM)Odd Fellow Any suggestions?
I'm a great proponent of replacing the stock rubber lines with stainless lines and aircraft AN fittings, but you just won't have time to do that.
![[Image: 99517d1328834707-380sl-diesel-conversion...380-65.jpg]](http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/99517d1328834707-380sl-diesel-conversion-project-380-65.jpg)
Some people have used clamps and hose, but there is not a good fitting hose generally available, making that choice a bit iffy.
Unless you do it right, you run the risk of blowing a line and cooking your engine quicker than you'd believe.
If it were me, I'd rent a car for the trip and wait to do it right when you're back... but that's just me.
(11-26-2013, 04:16 PM)Odd Fellow Any suggestions?
I'm a great proponent of replacing the stock rubber lines with stainless lines and aircraft AN fittings, but you just won't have time to do that.
Some people have used clamps and hose, but there is not a good fitting hose generally available, making that choice a bit iffy.
Unless you do it right, you run the risk of blowing a line and cooking your engine quicker than you'd believe.
If it were me, I'd rent a car for the trip and wait to do it right when you're back... but that's just me.
11-26-2013, 09:14 PM
#4
Risky #2-You can also dremel off the crush rings, revealing the barbs, and slap a high-pressure rubber hose with 4 beefy hose clamps on there to loop the lines.
If there's enough heat in your garage and you can get all the oil off JB weld +silicone tape are probably your best bet but damn man, watch that oil pressure gauge and check your hoses often. 617s can hit 100psi when revving up
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-26-2013, 09:14 PM #4Risky #1-Self healing silicone tape (it may or may not work-basic hardware stores have it in teh plumbing isle. No guarantee.
Risky #2-You can also dremel off the crush rings, revealing the barbs, and slap a high-pressure rubber hose with 4 beefy hose clamps on there to loop the lines.
If there's enough heat in your garage and you can get all the oil off JB weld +silicone tape are probably your best bet but damn man, watch that oil pressure gauge and check your hoses often. 617s can hit 100psi when revving up
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
11-26-2013, 11:09 PM
#5
If you take the line off be VERY careful to get that nut put back on straight. I ruined a good oil cooler with a cross threaded but. Expensive mishap
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Both of my spare cars were blown up because of the oil cooler, so just be careful. (Not because of not having one, holes blown line etc.)
If you take the line off be VERY careful to get that nut put back on straight. I ruined a good oil cooler with a cross threaded but. Expensive mishap
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
11-26-2013, 11:30 PM
#6
(11-26-2013, 09:14 PM)Simpler=Better Risky #2-You can also dremel off the crush rings, revealing the barbs, and slap a high-pressure rubber hose with 4 beefy hose clamps on there to loop the lines.
I am a big fan of AN and stainless or flex braid hose myself, but in a pitch I would do the hose clamp on stock line as above...definitely wouldn't leave it that way for too long. For a quick trip, do the hose clamp method, but get some spare lines from a part yard to do up the AN fitting method...much easier to hit the fitting supply place with what you need to make up in hand.
Def. Keep a close eye on the oil gage as well.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
11-26-2013, 11:30 PM #6(11-26-2013, 09:14 PM)Simpler=Better Risky #2-You can also dremel off the crush rings, revealing the barbs, and slap a high-pressure rubber hose with 4 beefy hose clamps on there to loop the lines.
I am a big fan of AN and stainless or flex braid hose myself, but in a pitch I would do the hose clamp on stock line as above...definitely wouldn't leave it that way for too long. For a quick trip, do the hose clamp method, but get some spare lines from a part yard to do up the AN fitting method...much easier to hit the fitting supply place with what you need to make up in hand.
Def. Keep a close eye on the oil gage as well.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
11-27-2013, 09:19 AM
#7
(11-26-2013, 11:30 PM)SurfRodder(11-26-2013, 09:14 PM)Simpler=Better Risky #2-You can also dremel off the crush rings, revealing the barbs, and slap a high-pressure rubber hose with 4 beefy hose clamps on there to loop the lines.
I am a big fan of AN and stainless or flex braid hose myself, but in a pitch I would do the hose clamp on stock line as above...definitely wouldn't leave it that way for too long. For a quick trip, do the hose clamp method, but get some spare lines from a part yard to do up the AN fitting method...much easier to hit the fitting supply place with what you need to make up in hand.
Def. Keep a close eye on the oil gage as well.
x3
Correct my if I'm wrong, but all the generic hydraulic lines at tractor supply, john deer, etc. are AN fittings right? So going AN would let you cobble something together while on the road pretty easily.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-27-2013, 09:19 AM #7(11-26-2013, 11:30 PM)SurfRodder(11-26-2013, 09:14 PM)Simpler=Better Risky #2-You can also dremel off the crush rings, revealing the barbs, and slap a high-pressure rubber hose with 4 beefy hose clamps on there to loop the lines.
I am a big fan of AN and stainless or flex braid hose myself, but in a pitch I would do the hose clamp on stock line as above...definitely wouldn't leave it that way for too long. For a quick trip, do the hose clamp method, but get some spare lines from a part yard to do up the AN fitting method...much easier to hit the fitting supply place with what you need to make up in hand.
Def. Keep a close eye on the oil gage as well.
x3
Correct my if I'm wrong, but all the generic hydraulic lines at tractor supply, john deer, etc. are AN fittings right? So going AN would let you cobble something together while on the road pretty easily.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
11-27-2013, 01:11 PM
#8
(11-27-2013, 09:19 AM)Simpler=Better x3
Correct my if I'm wrong, but all the generic hydraulic lines at tractor supply, john deer, etc. are AN fittings right? So going AN would let you cobble something together while on the road pretty easily.
I can't speak to the hoses available at Tractor Supply, etc. based on experience, but it is very likely that this is the case as AN fittings are definitely standard fittings. The best part is that the fittings are all reusable, so all you need to find (or carry) is a length of -10 AN hose with the appropriate rating. You would be able to find hose at airport FBO parts places, speed shops, hose suppliers, and likely other outlets - probably even the mobile hose vans that service off-road hydraulic equipment.
All you would need to do the job yourself is a way to cut the hose to length and a couple of crescent wrenches to install the fittings.
Also, JIC fittings are functionally equivalent to AN, just lower tolerances and specifications, so those should work as well. AN (Army Navy) is the mil spec version and JIC is the commercial specification.
(11-27-2013, 09:19 AM)Simpler=Better x3
Correct my if I'm wrong, but all the generic hydraulic lines at tractor supply, john deer, etc. are AN fittings right? So going AN would let you cobble something together while on the road pretty easily.
I can't speak to the hoses available at Tractor Supply, etc. based on experience, but it is very likely that this is the case as AN fittings are definitely standard fittings. The best part is that the fittings are all reusable, so all you need to find (or carry) is a length of -10 AN hose with the appropriate rating. You would be able to find hose at airport FBO parts places, speed shops, hose suppliers, and likely other outlets - probably even the mobile hose vans that service off-road hydraulic equipment.
All you would need to do the job yourself is a way to cut the hose to length and a couple of crescent wrenches to install the fittings.
Also, JIC fittings are functionally equivalent to AN, just lower tolerances and specifications, so those should work as well. AN (Army Navy) is the mil spec version and JIC is the commercial specification.
11-27-2013, 02:08 PM
#9
Duncansport
11-27-2013, 02:08 PM #9The easiest thing is to take both sets to a hose shop and have them rebuilt. We do it here all the time and it is very cost effective. Any good hose shop can cut off the crimps and install new hose and crimp them. Most any fix you do will blow off and drain all your oil in seconds..
11-27-2013, 05:44 PM
#10
carlitosgy6
11-27-2013, 05:44 PM #10if you dont have the time and or money i can say to get one of the good hoses an just remove the cooler completely ,then you have the damaged hose in your hands to get it fixed,then install the good hose remove the old one and fix it also,then you have both good without having the car stopped for a long time
11-28-2013, 02:00 AM
#11
(11-27-2013, 02:08 PM)Duncansport The easiest thing is to take both sets to a hose shop and have them rebuilt. We do it here all the time and it is very cost effective. Any good hose shop can cut off the crimps and install new hose and crimp them. Most any fix you do will blow off and drain all your oil in seconds..
This. And nothing else... Quick & cheap and good.
DiseaselWeasel
11-28-2013, 02:00 AM #11(11-27-2013, 02:08 PM)Duncansport The easiest thing is to take both sets to a hose shop and have them rebuilt. We do it here all the time and it is very cost effective. Any good hose shop can cut off the crimps and install new hose and crimp them. Most any fix you do will blow off and drain all your oil in seconds..
This. And nothing else... Quick & cheap and good.
11-28-2013, 09:08 AM
#12
(11-28-2013, 02:00 AM)DiseaselWeasel(11-27-2013, 02:08 PM)Duncansport The easiest thing is to take both sets to a hose shop and have them rebuilt. We do it here all the time and it is very cost effective. Any good hose shop can cut off the crimps and install new hose and crimp them. Most any fix you do will blow off and drain all your oil in seconds..
This. And nothing else... Quick & cheap and good.
Austincarnut
11-28-2013, 09:08 AM #12I agree, I did this and never had a problem, cost me $45, about 2 hours work when I changed my oil last and a little mess, no big deal at all.
(11-28-2013, 02:00 AM)DiseaselWeasel(11-27-2013, 02:08 PM)Duncansport The easiest thing is to take both sets to a hose shop and have them rebuilt. We do it here all the time and it is very cost effective. Any good hose shop can cut off the crimps and install new hose and crimp them. Most any fix you do will blow off and drain all your oil in seconds..
This. And nothing else... Quick & cheap and good.
11-29-2013, 07:33 PM
#13
This is the first chance I have had to reply on my eventual solution.
A friend and I tore that damned bottom line (the leaking one) out, and took it to the local Napa.
they cut off the old hose and crimps, and gave me a matching length of hose and two hose clamps for $20.
No pictures for now, but that jimmy-rigging has held for the last 50 miles with no leaks.
Honestly, I am happy with the two clamp setup. It seems to hold fine, and replace-ability is the second best thing to reliability.
Thanks again for the information!
(11-26-2013, 07:36 PM)mach4(11-26-2013, 04:16 PM)Odd Fellow Any suggestions?
I'm a great proponent of replacing the stock rubber lines with stainless lines and aircraft AN fittings, but you just won't have time to do that.
Some people have used clamps and hose, but there is not a good fitting hose generally available, making that choice a bit iffy.
Unless you do it right, you run the risk of blowing a line and cooking your engine quicker than you'd believe.
If it were me, I'd rent a car for the trip and wait to do it right when you're back... but that's just me.
This looks like a nice Perma-fix.
And it gives a clean look to the engine bay.
This post was last modified: 11-29-2013, 07:39 PM by Odd Fellow.
*DD*
1983 300SD 226K Miles
*in repairs*
1991 Plymouth Laser RS 210K miles
(Needs Cam Angle Sensor)
Odd Fellow
11-29-2013, 07:33 PM #13A big thanks to all of you for the great replies!
This is the first chance I have had to reply on my eventual solution.
A friend and I tore that damned bottom line (the leaking one) out, and took it to the local Napa.
they cut off the old hose and crimps, and gave me a matching length of hose and two hose clamps for $20.
No pictures for now, but that jimmy-rigging has held for the last 50 miles with no leaks.
Honestly, I am happy with the two clamp setup. It seems to hold fine, and replace-ability is the second best thing to reliability.
Thanks again for the information!
(11-26-2013, 07:36 PM)mach4(11-26-2013, 04:16 PM)Odd Fellow Any suggestions?
I'm a great proponent of replacing the stock rubber lines with stainless lines and aircraft AN fittings, but you just won't have time to do that.
Some people have used clamps and hose, but there is not a good fitting hose generally available, making that choice a bit iffy.
Unless you do it right, you run the risk of blowing a line and cooking your engine quicker than you'd believe.
If it were me, I'd rent a car for the trip and wait to do it right when you're back... but that's just me.
This looks like a nice Perma-fix.
And it gives a clean look to the engine bay.
*DD*
1983 300SD 226K Miles
*in repairs*
1991 Plymouth Laser RS 210K miles
(Needs Cam Angle Sensor)
12-02-2013, 10:10 PM
#14
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Cross threaded my oil cooler lines, so we welded 90 degree barb fittings to the in and out and put rubber oil lines on, then double hose clamped it for super safety
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
12-03-2013, 10:09 AM
#15
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-03-2013, 10:09 AM #15check and tighten the clamps after a couple of weeks as the rubber softens up the clams will become loose over time
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
12-04-2013, 06:22 PM
#16
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Not too worried, you can't pull a rubber line off a barb fitting, it's nearly impossible
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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