weird wiring issue on 5 speed swap for OM603
weird wiring issue on 5 speed swap for OM603
11-19-2013, 09:41 PM
#1
The neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal seems to be backwards. I currently have it disconnected from the pedal and use it like a kill switch...reach under the dash and depress the switch while turning the key. Also, it seems like the switch works backward from what it should, i.e. keep the pedal up to allow the engine to start.
If I wire it up to leave the switch bypassed (jumper between pins on the harness), it will often try to keep the started engaged, as in still turning the started motor while driving.
Further, the reverse light switch does not work, even if I remove the switch from the shifter and depress it.
So obviously there is something messed up, perhaps mixed up pins on the 4 way plug under the dash. Does anyone have a good picture of a working NSS and B/U switch for a w124/201? Esp. one showing which wires go to NSS and B/U switch?
Thanks in advance!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
11-19-2013, 09:41 PM #1So my '87 has a strange wiring issue post 5 speed swap.
The neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal seems to be backwards. I currently have it disconnected from the pedal and use it like a kill switch...reach under the dash and depress the switch while turning the key. Also, it seems like the switch works backward from what it should, i.e. keep the pedal up to allow the engine to start.
If I wire it up to leave the switch bypassed (jumper between pins on the harness), it will often try to keep the started engaged, as in still turning the started motor while driving.
Further, the reverse light switch does not work, even if I remove the switch from the shifter and depress it.
So obviously there is something messed up, perhaps mixed up pins on the 4 way plug under the dash. Does anyone have a good picture of a working NSS and B/U switch for a w124/201? Esp. one showing which wires go to NSS and B/U switch?
Thanks in advance!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
11-20-2013, 10:35 AM
#2
![[Image: 208104.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/208104.png)
Having done the swap, I recall disabling the neutral safety switch but not the details. One odd issue I haven't dealt with yet on the swap is cruise control. If I have cruise engaged and I press in the clutch without disengaging it or tapping the brake pedal, the revs will shoot up past 4k in an instant. I need to fix that.
11-20-2013, 12:36 PM
#3
(11-20-2013, 10:35 AM)tjts1 Having done the swap, I recall disabling the neutral safety switch but not the details. One odd issue I haven't dealt with yet on the swap is cruise control. If I have cruise engaged and I press in the clutch without disengaging it or tapping the brake pedal, the revs will shoot up past 4k in an instant. I need to fix that.
yeah, I dont mind disabling the NSS as I never use cruise control and always depress the clutch when starting outta force of habit. The main issue for me is that in several months I will be moving to Bahrain and the reverse light must work properly in order for them to issue a license plate/register the car. So, I need that to work at a minumum.
Rolf, how did you wire up your B/U switch?
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
11-20-2013, 12:36 PM #3(11-20-2013, 10:35 AM)tjts1 Having done the swap, I recall disabling the neutral safety switch but not the details. One odd issue I haven't dealt with yet on the swap is cruise control. If I have cruise engaged and I press in the clutch without disengaging it or tapping the brake pedal, the revs will shoot up past 4k in an instant. I need to fix that.
yeah, I dont mind disabling the NSS as I never use cruise control and always depress the clutch when starting outta force of habit. The main issue for me is that in several months I will be moving to Bahrain and the reverse light must work properly in order for them to issue a license plate/register the car. So, I need that to work at a minumum.
Rolf, how did you wire up your B/U switch?
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
11-21-2013, 11:09 AM
#4
raysorenson
11-21-2013, 11:09 AM #4Merc didn't use the clutch switch for starter interrupt. It removes the ground path from the stop lamp input to the speed control amp.[/align]
11-21-2013, 04:12 PM
#5
(11-21-2013, 11:09 AM)raysorenson Merc didn't use the clutch switch for starter interrupt. It removes the ground path from the stop lamp input to the speed control amp.[/align]
nice, this is the kind of info I was looking for.
my w123 worked well (both B/U and NSS) once I got the proper plug and partial wire harness from another donor.
I have been outta town these past few days, but hope to work on this tomorrow or this weekend. Ill post whatever I figure out.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
11-21-2013, 04:12 PM #5(11-21-2013, 11:09 AM)raysorenson Merc didn't use the clutch switch for starter interrupt. It removes the ground path from the stop lamp input to the speed control amp.[/align]
nice, this is the kind of info I was looking for.
my w123 worked well (both B/U and NSS) once I got the proper plug and partial wire harness from another donor.
I have been outta town these past few days, but hope to work on this tomorrow or this weekend. Ill post whatever I figure out.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)
1 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)
1 Guest(s)