Stock Internal OM616
Stock Internal OM616
11-03-2013, 12:38 AM
#1
I had the idea when I met a guy who slapped a turbo on a stock 616 and swapped it into his Astro Van. It gave me the idea to do it to mine.
I just have a few questions for you guys.
1: Are there any adjustments besides IP and ADA that i would have to do?
2: What would be the best turbo? I've heard about variable geometry working out well for 616's
3: With that turbo, what's a safe pressure to run that will still give me noticeable results?
4: Is it really safe to do this on a 616 approaching 300k?
5: Any other general advice.
Thanks!
New to this forum, I was referred here from BenzWorld since people over there had limited knowledge of slapping a turbo on a 616.
I had the idea when I met a guy who slapped a turbo on a stock 616 and swapped it into his Astro Van. It gave me the idea to do it to mine.
I just have a few questions for you guys.
1: Are there any adjustments besides IP and ADA that i would have to do?
2: What would be the best turbo? I've heard about variable geometry working out well for 616's
3: With that turbo, what's a safe pressure to run that will still give me noticeable results?
4: Is it really safe to do this on a 616 approaching 300k?
5: Any other general advice.
Thanks!
11-03-2013, 02:58 AM
#2
Not sure if you saw the thread but: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...-Van-build
11-03-2013, 02:32 PM
#3
I am very happy with the GT2056V... Works well with the 5.5mm elements, but I am going to upgrade to a GT2256V when I put the 10mm supperpump on.
With the 2056V and the governor settings I currently am running, I can get more boost than EMP when accelerating. I am running 15-20lbs of boost with 7-10lbs cursing on the highway..
There are many threads on turboing a 616... IMOP, not worth doing unless you change the governor settings to take advantage of the turbo. Ones ability to tune the governor is limiting factor with this conversion.
I am very happy with the GT2056V... Works well with the 5.5mm elements, but I am going to upgrade to a GT2256V when I put the 10mm supperpump on.
With the 2056V and the governor settings I currently am running, I can get more boost than EMP when accelerating. I am running 15-20lbs of boost with 7-10lbs cursing on the highway..
11-11-2013, 06:32 PM
#4
(11-03-2013, 02:32 PM)OM616 There are many threads on turboing a 616... IMOP, not worth doing unless you change the governor settings to take advantage of the turbo. Ones ability to tune the governor is limiting factor with this conversion.
I am very happy with the GT2056V... Works well with the 5.5mm elements, but I am going to upgrade to a GT2256V when I put the 10mm supperpump on.
With the 2056V and the governor settings I currently am running, I can get more boost than EMP when accelerating. I am running 15-20lbs of boost with 7-10lbs cursing on the highway..
So not only does the IP have to be tuned, but the governor as well?
Also, is yours running on stock internals? No new pistons, con rods, etc? If so, how has running such high pressure affected your engine?
(11-03-2013, 02:32 PM)OM616 There are many threads on turboing a 616... IMOP, not worth doing unless you change the governor settings to take advantage of the turbo. Ones ability to tune the governor is limiting factor with this conversion.
I am very happy with the GT2056V... Works well with the 5.5mm elements, but I am going to upgrade to a GT2256V when I put the 10mm supperpump on.
With the 2056V and the governor settings I currently am running, I can get more boost than EMP when accelerating. I am running 15-20lbs of boost with 7-10lbs cursing on the highway..
So not only does the IP have to be tuned, but the governor as well?
Also, is yours running on stock internals? No new pistons, con rods, etc? If so, how has running such high pressure affected your engine?
11-11-2013, 07:54 PM
#5
(11-11-2013, 06:32 PM)240Steez So not only does the IP have to be tuned, but the governor as well?
When you hear people talking about "tuning the IP" they are only adjusting the Governor, you do not touch the pump its self...
The Governor controls the fueling quantity and it reduces fueling as RPM increases. What has to be done is increase the delivered quantity and delay when the reduction starts so you have more fuel at higher RPMs.
It is easy to mess this up and get into trouble.
(11-11-2013, 06:32 PM)240Steez Also, is yours running on stock internals? No new pistons, con rods, etc? If so, how has running such high pressure affected your engine?
Stock engine, 260K on it.
I opened up the burn holes in the Prechambers if you consider that an internal modification.. Also advanced the camshaft timing.
I maxed out the timing slots on the pump after moding the PCs, so I couldn't advance the timing any more. And I am running a very aggressive governor tune (5 or so turns on the Torque Control), and I do not have an ALDA.
It really runs strong. The clutch will brake loose if I really get into the throttle. At 20 lbs of boost (full power), the EGTs stay bellow 900*F. I curse on the highway (75/80 mph), with about 7lbs and EGT is around 700*F.
I modified the thermostat housing so the coolant can not by pass the thermostat as it does stock. I have had absolutely no cooling issues since then.
(11-11-2013, 06:32 PM)240Steez So not only does the IP have to be tuned, but the governor as well?
When you hear people talking about "tuning the IP" they are only adjusting the Governor, you do not touch the pump its self...
The Governor controls the fueling quantity and it reduces fueling as RPM increases. What has to be done is increase the delivered quantity and delay when the reduction starts so you have more fuel at higher RPMs.
It is easy to mess this up and get into trouble.
(11-11-2013, 06:32 PM)240Steez Also, is yours running on stock internals? No new pistons, con rods, etc? If so, how has running such high pressure affected your engine?
Stock engine, 260K on it.
I opened up the burn holes in the Prechambers if you consider that an internal modification.. Also advanced the camshaft timing.
I maxed out the timing slots on the pump after moding the PCs, so I couldn't advance the timing any more. And I am running a very aggressive governor tune (5 or so turns on the Torque Control), and I do not have an ALDA.
It really runs strong. The clutch will brake loose if I really get into the throttle. At 20 lbs of boost (full power), the EGTs stay bellow 900*F. I curse on the highway (75/80 mph), with about 7lbs and EGT is around 700*F.
I modified the thermostat housing so the coolant can not by pass the thermostat as it does stock. I have had absolutely no cooling issues since then.
11-12-2013, 08:01 PM
#6
(11-11-2013, 07:54 PM)OM616(11-11-2013, 06:32 PM)240Steez So not only does the IP have to be tuned, but the governor as well?
When you hear people talking about "tuning the IP" they are only adjusting the Governor, you do not touch the pump its self...
The Governor controls the fueling quantity and it reduces fueling as RPM increases. What has to be done is increase the delivered quantity and delay when the reduction starts so you have more fuel at higher RPMs.
It is easy to mess this up and get into trouble.
(11-11-2013, 06:32 PM)240Steez Also, is yours running on stock internals? No new pistons, con rods, etc? If so, how has running such high pressure affected your engine?
Stock engine, 260K on it.
I opened up the burn holes in the Prechambers if you consider that an internal modification.. Also advanced the camshaft timing.
I maxed out the timing slots on the pump after moding the PCs, so I couldn't advance the timing any more. And I am running a very aggressive governor tune (5 or so turns on the Torque Control), and I do not have an ALDA.
It really runs strong. The clutch will brake loose if I really get into the throttle. At 20 lbs of boost (full power), the EGTs stay bellow 900*F. I curse on the highway (75/80 mph), with about 7lbs and EGT is around 700*F.
I modified the thermostat housing so the coolant can not by pass the thermostat as it does stock. I have had absolutely no cooling issues since then.
Thanks a lot! This is a project way down on the list of things to do, but it's nice to know ahead of time.
(11-11-2013, 07:54 PM)OM616(11-11-2013, 06:32 PM)240Steez So not only does the IP have to be tuned, but the governor as well?
When you hear people talking about "tuning the IP" they are only adjusting the Governor, you do not touch the pump its self...
The Governor controls the fueling quantity and it reduces fueling as RPM increases. What has to be done is increase the delivered quantity and delay when the reduction starts so you have more fuel at higher RPMs.
It is easy to mess this up and get into trouble.
(11-11-2013, 06:32 PM)240Steez Also, is yours running on stock internals? No new pistons, con rods, etc? If so, how has running such high pressure affected your engine?
Stock engine, 260K on it.
I opened up the burn holes in the Prechambers if you consider that an internal modification.. Also advanced the camshaft timing.
I maxed out the timing slots on the pump after moding the PCs, so I couldn't advance the timing any more. And I am running a very aggressive governor tune (5 or so turns on the Torque Control), and I do not have an ALDA.
It really runs strong. The clutch will brake loose if I really get into the throttle. At 20 lbs of boost (full power), the EGTs stay bellow 900*F. I curse on the highway (75/80 mph), with about 7lbs and EGT is around 700*F.
I modified the thermostat housing so the coolant can not by pass the thermostat as it does stock. I have had absolutely no cooling issues since then.
Thanks a lot! This is a project way down on the list of things to do, but it's nice to know ahead of time.
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