Project Redemption
Project Redemption
I recently had the pleasure of meeting Winmutt in person while I was parting out my 90 300D. He was curious to see what I was doing with the engine and transmission (among other things) so I showed him my project. He told me to post it here as this is a community that appreciates Mercedes Diesels and any appropriate swaps.
Started out as a 1986 Mazda B2000 that originally had a carburetor. I first upgraded the carb, then upgraded to EFI, then blew up that motor. Whoops! So one day I got lucky and found an RF diesel motor sitting in a Ford Escort. I rebuilt that but could never get it running correctly due to a faulty injector pump (and $1000 rebuild fee OUCH!)
Meanwhile I had inherited a friend's 300D with all sorts of messy body and paperwork issues. It drove alright and had plenty of power once warmed up, but the car itself wasn't worth saving. Some parts went up for sale, some parts went into my 86 190E 2.3-16, and the heart went into my B2000. I'll get some pics posted here shortly.
EFI B2000
![[Image: 100_1482.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/under%20the%20hood/100_1482.jpg.html)
Old RF Diesel engine:
![[Image: RFdieselinenginebay.jpg]](http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb154/truckmike520/Diesel%20Conversion/RFdieselinenginebay.jpg)
OM602 under the hood
![[Image: 2013-03-15_19-43-38_718_zps166a3ff4.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/2013-03-15_19-43-38_718_zps166a3ff4.jpg.html)
Homemade trailer
![[Image: 2013-01-31_18-22-36_508_zps23899a21.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/new%20bed/Mazda%20Trailer/2013-01-31_18-22-36_508_zps23899a21.jpg.html)
![[Image: 2013-05-20_17-59-01_104_zps4373eb17.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/new%20bed/Mazda%20Trailer/2013-05-20_17-59-01_104_zps4373eb17.jpg.html)
IRS install
![[Image: 2013-06-01_17-58-51_40_zps507c3ff8.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/2013-06-01_17-58-51_40_zps507c3ff8.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20130903_192152_769_zps9fc160cb.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130903_192152_769_zps9fc160cb.jpg.html)
Rear mounted AC condener, it wouldn't fit on the front with the Mazda grille for how I had to install the radiator.
![[Image: IMG_20130906_125342_532_zps86f857a4.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130906_125342_532_zps86f857a4.jpg.html)
New rear cross member welded in:
![[Image: IMG_20130906_141515_310_zpsa5af95b2.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130906_141515_310_zpsa5af95b2.jpg.html)
Old rear cross member removed (was original spare tire holder, will have to figure out a new one:
![[Image: IMG_20130906_145026_960_zps482bf915.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130906_145026_960_zps482bf915.jpg.html)
Fuel tank installed. Original location got blocked by the installation of the 300D IRS subframe
![[Image: IMG_20130906_172438_321_zpsb11de3bb.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130906_172438_321_zpsb11de3bb.jpg.html)
That is about where I am at for now.
Hello all,
I recently had the pleasure of meeting Winmutt in person while I was parting out my 90 300D. He was curious to see what I was doing with the engine and transmission (among other things) so I showed him my project. He told me to post it here as this is a community that appreciates Mercedes Diesels and any appropriate swaps.
Started out as a 1986 Mazda B2000 that originally had a carburetor. I first upgraded the carb, then upgraded to EFI, then blew up that motor. Whoops! So one day I got lucky and found an RF diesel motor sitting in a Ford Escort. I rebuilt that but could never get it running correctly due to a faulty injector pump (and $1000 rebuild fee OUCH!)
Meanwhile I had inherited a friend's 300D with all sorts of messy body and paperwork issues. It drove alright and had plenty of power once warmed up, but the car itself wasn't worth saving. Some parts went up for sale, some parts went into my 86 190E 2.3-16, and the heart went into my B2000. I'll get some pics posted here shortly.
EFI B2000
Old RF Diesel engine:
OM602 under the hood
Homemade trailer
IRS install
Rear mounted AC condener, it wouldn't fit on the front with the Mazda grille for how I had to install the radiator.
New rear cross member welded in:
Old rear cross member removed (was original spare tire holder, will have to figure out a new one:
Fuel tank installed. Original location got blocked by the installation of the 300D IRS subframe
That is about where I am at for now.
With the 300D Rear end that thing is going to ride smooooooooooth!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-06-2013, 06:03 PM #2A Ranger with a non-lima 4 banger!?!?! WHA!!!???
With the 300D Rear end that thing is going to ride smooooooooooth!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-07-2013, 03:37 AM)Eric78(09-06-2013, 06:45 PM)EmJay that is for 94+.It'd be more correct to say that the ranger was a clone of the mazda.
Ok, I'm a major Mazda nut, so as a disclaimer this is a major nerd warning here.
Globally, model years 78-84 Ford Couriers and Mazda pickups (B1600, B1800, B2000, B2200 and REPU) were the same chassis, a Mazda design.
1985 issued changes globally. There was no MY 1985 B series pickups in the US, MY 86 was weird with 2 versions (before March 85 and post March 85, with differences in the water pump, block thickness and timing belt.) I don't know what year the Ranger made it's debut, but after 84 the Courier was NLA state side. This body design was used until the end of MY 93. MY 94+ in the US they became Ranger clones.
Now, for the rest of the world, the Ford Courier was a clone of the B2000/B2200 MY 85 up till MY 1999. Some markets had Rangers, others didn't, but outside North America they were the same chassis as the B series.
Some of these models sold outside North America were diesel powered, using the RF 2.0 or the R2 2.2. Most were not turbo, but some came with a factory turbo. One year there was a supercharged version of the RF called the Comprex. Development of the RF continued until the early 2000s. The last version of the RF had direct injection but the heads were always the weak point in these motors, probably due to the extreme compression (like 22:1-24:1.)
I know a lot more about these motors, but this is at the risk of going off topic.
(09-07-2013, 03:37 AM)Eric78(09-06-2013, 06:45 PM)EmJay that is for 94+.It'd be more correct to say that the ranger was a clone of the mazda.
Ok, I'm a major Mazda nut, so as a disclaimer this is a major nerd warning here.
Globally, model years 78-84 Ford Couriers and Mazda pickups (B1600, B1800, B2000, B2200 and REPU) were the same chassis, a Mazda design.
1985 issued changes globally. There was no MY 1985 B series pickups in the US, MY 86 was weird with 2 versions (before March 85 and post March 85, with differences in the water pump, block thickness and timing belt.) I don't know what year the Ranger made it's debut, but after 84 the Courier was NLA state side. This body design was used until the end of MY 93. MY 94+ in the US they became Ranger clones.
Now, for the rest of the world, the Ford Courier was a clone of the B2000/B2200 MY 85 up till MY 1999. Some markets had Rangers, others didn't, but outside North America they were the same chassis as the B series.
Some of these models sold outside North America were diesel powered, using the RF 2.0 or the R2 2.2. Most were not turbo, but some came with a factory turbo. One year there was a supercharged version of the RF called the Comprex. Development of the RF continued until the early 2000s. The last version of the RF had direct injection but the heads were always the weak point in these motors, probably due to the extreme compression (like 22:1-24:1.)
I know a lot more about these motors, but this is at the risk of going off topic.
raysorenson
09-07-2013, 10:17 PM #6Was that RF motor the Perkins that appeared in the Ranger and Tempo? I had an '84 Tempo diesel 5 speed with low miles in mint condition not too long ago. A sloth would have lost it's patience with it. I hated it so much that I started racking up miles on a C3 Corvette, another floor of car hell. A 602 would have been a massive improvement.
By the way, I'm open to criticism, advice, suggestions, and cheering
I won't be working on this much within the next few days, I sprained my wrist moving my GFs car, getting ready to do a transmission swap on it (01 Mercury Cougar ZN, ATX died so she's getting a new crate transmission.)
The perkins and the RF are 2 different beasts. The Perkins was used up until 84 in Mazda trucks and in Rangers. The RF was first released in 84 in the Escort, Tempo, Topaz, Lynx, and 626, up until 87 here in the states. I pulled my RF from an 84. A turbo is supposed to wake these motors up, but you NEED to use a thicker head gasket to get the CR down to 18:1
By the way, I'm open to criticism, advice, suggestions, and cheering I won't be working on this much within the next few days, I sprained my wrist moving my GFs car, getting ready to do a transmission swap on it (01 Mercury Cougar ZN, ATX died so she's getting a new crate transmission.)
I may end up doing coilovers in the front as well since I got a kit for all 4 shocks I got no real work done on the truck today, I tried hooking up the rear brake lines, but it would seem that the fittings for the Mazda brakes are just a tad smaller than that for the Mercedes, they were leeking when fully torqued down. So I gotta figure out WTF I'm going to do there, that shouldn't be too hard.
Ok so I received the coilover kit today, it's about what I expected. It seems that my ride is going to have a bit of a suspension lift in the rear versus the factory setup, not a big deal at all I may end up doing coilovers in the front as well since I got a kit for all 4 shocks
I got no real work done on the truck today, I tried hooking up the rear brake lines, but it would seem that the fittings for the Mazda brakes are just a tad smaller than that for the Mercedes, they were leeking when fully torqued down. So I gotta figure out WTF I'm going to do there, that shouldn't be too hard.
(09-09-2013, 08:14 PM)EmJay Ok so I received the coilover kit today, it's about what I expected. It seems that my ride is going to have a bit of a suspension lift in the rear versus the factory setup, not a big deal at all
I got no real work done on the truck today, I tried hooking up the rear brake lines, but it would seem that the fittings for the Mazda brakes are just a tad smaller than that for the Mercedes, they were leeking when fully torqued down. So I gotta figure out WTF I'm going to do there, that shouldn't be too hard.
Shops will tell you that you can't sleeve brake lines and braze them together, but since I'm still alive I'm going to tell you different!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-10-2013, 08:06 AM #9(09-09-2013, 08:14 PM)EmJay Ok so I received the coilover kit today, it's about what I expected. It seems that my ride is going to have a bit of a suspension lift in the rear versus the factory setup, not a big deal at all
I got no real work done on the truck today, I tried hooking up the rear brake lines, but it would seem that the fittings for the Mazda brakes are just a tad smaller than that for the Mercedes, they were leeking when fully torqued down. So I gotta figure out WTF I'm going to do there, that shouldn't be too hard.
Shops will tell you that you can't sleeve brake lines and braze them together, but since I'm still alive I'm going to tell you different!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I love the way you solved the AC problem, looking forward to more pics!
Also you have to appreciate a guy who tries two different diesel motors. Im familiar with that RF diesel, if ever there was a dog, that was it. Slower than a VW 1.6 NA, maybe even slower than a VW 1.5!
Glad you swapped it out in favor of the MB plant, pretty tough little motors though, but I remember being forced into the break down lane in my old escort on nearly any incline. Was depressing
Love this swap!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
awesome!
I love the way you solved the AC problem, looking forward to more pics!
Also you have to appreciate a guy who tries two different diesel motors. Im familiar with that RF diesel, if ever there was a dog, that was it. Slower than a VW 1.6 NA, maybe even slower than a VW 1.5!
Glad you swapped it out in favor of the MB plant, pretty tough little motors though, but I remember being forced into the break down lane in my old escort on nearly any incline. Was depressing
Love this swap!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-10-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better Shops will tell you that you can't sleeve brake lines and braze them together, but since I'm still alive I'm going to tell you different!
Sleeve and braze? Do you mean use compression fittings? This was actually a fix that Ford had to issue in some F250-F350s with the power stroke, one of the lines that ran along the passenger rail would rust through, between the cab and the rear axle. Their fix was a small section that you would cut out and install using compression fittings.
(09-10-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better Shops will tell you that you can't sleeve brake lines and braze them together, but since I'm still alive I'm going to tell you different!
Sleeve and braze? Do you mean use compression fittings? This was actually a fix that Ford had to issue in some F250-F350s with the power stroke, one of the lines that ran along the passenger rail would rust through, between the cab and the rear axle. Their fix was a small section that you would cut out and install using compression fittings.
(09-10-2013, 08:45 AM)EmJay(09-10-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better Shops will tell you that you can't sleeve brake lines and braze them together, but since I'm still alive I'm going to tell you different!
Sleeve and braze? Do you mean use compression fittings? This was actually a fix that Ford had to issue in some F250-F350s with the power stroke, one of the lines that ran along the passenger rail would rust through, between the cab and the rear axle. Their fix was a small section that you would cut out and install using compression fittings.
He may be hampered by local law.
Some northern states, compression fitting brake line repair is completely illegal, and the sight of them will cause an immediate failure on state safety inspections.
I think NY for sure, possibly MA. Ironically, some of the rustier states don't give a crap, like NH.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-10-2013, 08:45 AM)EmJay(09-10-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better Shops will tell you that you can't sleeve brake lines and braze them together, but since I'm still alive I'm going to tell you different!
Sleeve and braze? Do you mean use compression fittings? This was actually a fix that Ford had to issue in some F250-F350s with the power stroke, one of the lines that ran along the passenger rail would rust through, between the cab and the rear axle. Their fix was a small section that you would cut out and install using compression fittings.
He may be hampered by local law.
Some northern states, compression fitting brake line repair is completely illegal, and the sight of them will cause an immediate failure on state safety inspections.
I think NY for sure, possibly MA. Ironically, some of the rustier states don't give a crap, like NH.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Pics will come, but I have a MIT (manager in training) position interview tomorrow
Got the coilovers finished for the rear shocks. I think that I need bigger springs than what comes with the kit that I purchased, but it holds. I couldn't get any pictures since it got too dark before I finished. What I did was to take a 2" exhaust clamp and weld it to the shock housing, so that the coilover sleeve wouldn't slide down the shock body.
Pics will come, but I have a MIT (manager in training) position interview tomorrow
And keep it out of sight, they will lose their shit even though it's safe(assuming your braze jobs are good).
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-11-2013, 09:43 AM #14By sleeve I mean this:
And keep it out of sight, they will lose their shit even though it's safe(assuming your braze jobs are good).
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
09-11-2013, 02:30 PM #15These Mercedes engine like the higher compression even with the turbo's they are 21:1 - 22:1 depending on model years.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
What I did was get one of those eBay $55 kits that comes with 4 springs, 4 sleeves, the adjustment tool, and any possible o-ring to help position the sleeve. Since I was doing a different application than what the kit was for (a Miata, not a converted B series) I had to mount the sleeve a little different. I used the set screws to keep it in position, then welded a 2" muffler clamp to the shock housing to use as a perch for the sleeve. w/out the perch, the sleeve would have slid down the shock (I tested this out w/out the perch, set screws are NOT strong enough.)
Here you can see the clamp that I welded to the shock, it is possible to weld along the shock body, you just have to be VERY careful not to let it burn through. I usually prefer MIG with 75/25, but I was out of the gas so I used .035" flux core. I painted it after I was done welding and cleaning to inhibit future rust issues.
![[Image: IMG_20130910_201656_737_zpsbd6b2090.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130910_201656_737_zpsbd6b2090.jpg.html)
Here is the mount all welded up.
![[Image: IMG_20130911_153839_239_zps7d52ee3d.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130911_153839_239_zps7d52ee3d.jpg.html)
And even with flux cored wire, it is possible to get a good looking weld. Not as pretty as my gas welds, but not fugly.
![[Image: IMG_20130911_153844_284_zpsbac25855.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130911_153844_284_zpsbac25855.jpg.html)
With the coilover installed
![[Image: IMG_20130910_201735_064_zps0751ea90.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130910_201735_064_zps0751ea90.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20130910_201743_610_zps2ce3de7a.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130910_201743_610_zps2ce3de7a.jpg.html)
I don't want anyone to worry about bracing for the mounts, I do plan to reinforce the mounts AND the cross members that I welded in. For now I just want to get everything positioned before I go crazy with bracing. I'm also not happy with the rubber plug that is used at the top of the spring, so I'll be fashioning an aluminum or steel disc (probably 1/8" thick) before the truck is on the road.
Another feat for today, I mounted the battery tray. This is also going to be under the bed, I'm doing this for a number of reasons, mainly because I can't get the battery to look good under the hood with all the stuff that I have fitted under there. This sits where the fuel tank USED to rest. I tested the sturdiness of the mount by standing and jumping on it. I figure if it can handle me jumping on the tray for a couple of minutes, it can handle a tied down battery.
![[Image: IMG_20130911_170812_623_zpsa4d79820.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130911_170812_623_zpsa4d79820.jpg.html)
With a battery sitting in it (battery shown is worth only a core, I'll be using a bigger/better battery)
![[Image: IMG_20130911_170741_687_zps8a2255b4.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130911_170741_687_zps8a2255b4.jpg.html)
Ok I finished installing the coilovers in the rear. I really need to get bigger springs than what came in the kit, but for now they will hold just fine.
What I did was get one of those eBay $55 kits that comes with 4 springs, 4 sleeves, the adjustment tool, and any possible o-ring to help position the sleeve. Since I was doing a different application than what the kit was for (a Miata, not a converted B series) I had to mount the sleeve a little different. I used the set screws to keep it in position, then welded a 2" muffler clamp to the shock housing to use as a perch for the sleeve. w/out the perch, the sleeve would have slid down the shock (I tested this out w/out the perch, set screws are NOT strong enough.)
Here you can see the clamp that I welded to the shock, it is possible to weld along the shock body, you just have to be VERY careful not to let it burn through. I usually prefer MIG with 75/25, but I was out of the gas so I used .035" flux core. I painted it after I was done welding and cleaning to inhibit future rust issues.
Here is the mount all welded up.
And even with flux cored wire, it is possible to get a good looking weld. Not as pretty as my gas welds, but not fugly.
With the coilover installed
I don't want anyone to worry about bracing for the mounts, I do plan to reinforce the mounts AND the cross members that I welded in. For now I just want to get everything positioned before I go crazy with bracing. I'm also not happy with the rubber plug that is used at the top of the spring, so I'll be fashioning an aluminum or steel disc (probably 1/8" thick) before the truck is on the road.
Another feat for today, I mounted the battery tray. This is also going to be under the bed, I'm doing this for a number of reasons, mainly because I can't get the battery to look good under the hood with all the stuff that I have fitted under there. This sits where the fuel tank USED to rest. I tested the sturdiness of the mount by standing and jumping on it. I figure if it can handle me jumping on the tray for a couple of minutes, it can handle a tied down battery.
With a battery sitting in it (battery shown is worth only a core, I'll be using a bigger/better battery)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-12-2013, 09:56 AM #17It's looking awesome!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-10-2013, 08:54 AM)JB3(09-10-2013, 08:45 AM)EmJay(09-10-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better Shops will tell you that you can't sleeve brake lines and braze them together, but since I'm still alive I'm going to tell you different!
Sleeve and braze? Do you mean use compression fittings? This was actually a fix that Ford had to issue in some F250-F350s with the power stroke, one of the lines that ran along the passenger rail would rust through, between the cab and the rear axle. Their fix was a small section that you would cut out and install using compression fittings.
He may be hampered by local law.
Some northern states, compression fitting brake line repair is completely illegal, and the sight of them will cause an immediate failure on state safety inspections.
I think NY for sure, possibly MA. Ironically, some of the rustier states don't give a crap, like NH.
Compression fitting do fail NH state inspection...but you can drive around with blown CV boots and a SRS light hahaha
Duncansport
09-12-2013, 01:25 PM #19(09-10-2013, 08:54 AM)JB3(09-10-2013, 08:45 AM)EmJay(09-10-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better Shops will tell you that you can't sleeve brake lines and braze them together, but since I'm still alive I'm going to tell you different!
Sleeve and braze? Do you mean use compression fittings? This was actually a fix that Ford had to issue in some F250-F350s with the power stroke, one of the lines that ran along the passenger rail would rust through, between the cab and the rear axle. Their fix was a small section that you would cut out and install using compression fittings.
He may be hampered by local law.
Some northern states, compression fitting brake line repair is completely illegal, and the sight of them will cause an immediate failure on state safety inspections.
I think NY for sure, possibly MA. Ironically, some of the rustier states don't give a crap, like NH.
Compression fitting do fail NH state inspection...but you can drive around with blown CV boots and a SRS light hahaha
(09-12-2013, 01:25 PM)Duncansport(09-10-2013, 08:54 AM)JB3(09-10-2013, 08:45 AM)EmJay Sleeve and braze? Do you mean use compression fittings? This was actually a fix that Ford had to issue in some F250-F350s with the power stroke, one of the lines that ran along the passenger rail would rust through, between the cab and the rear axle. Their fix was a small section that you would cut out and install using compression fittings.
He may be hampered by local law.
Some northern states, compression fitting brake line repair is completely illegal, and the sight of them will cause an immediate failure on state safety inspections.
I think NY for sure, possibly MA. Ironically, some of the rustier states don't give a crap, like NH.
Compression fitting do fail NH state inspection...but you can drive around with blown CV boots and a SRS light hahaha
ive been living a lie.
I stand corrected!New York has some crazy rules, like a leaking brake line is fine as long as its under a certain number of drips per minute. But god forbid that brake line have a compression fitting on it
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-12-2013, 01:25 PM)Duncansport(09-10-2013, 08:54 AM)JB3(09-10-2013, 08:45 AM)EmJay Sleeve and braze? Do you mean use compression fittings? This was actually a fix that Ford had to issue in some F250-F350s with the power stroke, one of the lines that ran along the passenger rail would rust through, between the cab and the rear axle. Their fix was a small section that you would cut out and install using compression fittings.
He may be hampered by local law.
Some northern states, compression fitting brake line repair is completely illegal, and the sight of them will cause an immediate failure on state safety inspections.
I think NY for sure, possibly MA. Ironically, some of the rustier states don't give a crap, like NH.
Compression fitting do fail NH state inspection...but you can drive around with blown CV boots and a SRS light hahaha
ive been living a lie.
I stand corrected!New York has some crazy rules, like a leaking brake line is fine as long as its under a certain number of drips per minute. But god forbid that brake line have a compression fitting on it
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I guess that I need to do a good job of hiding any used compression fittings then, or just get new lines that are all the MB size and run those. I'm using MB brakes up front too, once I get the spindle situation settled. I can always reflare the lines as well and use the approved flare fitting that came with my 300D.
(09-12-2013, 01:53 PM)EmJay I guess that I need to do a good job of hiding any used compression fittings then, or just get new lines that are all the MB size and run those. I'm using MB brakes up front too, once I get the spindle situation settled. I can always reflare the lines as well and use the approved flare fitting that came with my 300D.
Why can't you use flare unions?
I have drilled out the male threaded part on a 3/8(.375") fitting and made a 3/8"->10mm(.393") connection for my turbo's oil line. I imagine that you can get away with something similar for the brakes
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-12-2013, 02:49 PM #22(09-12-2013, 01:53 PM)EmJay I guess that I need to do a good job of hiding any used compression fittings then, or just get new lines that are all the MB size and run those. I'm using MB brakes up front too, once I get the spindle situation settled. I can always reflare the lines as well and use the approved flare fitting that came with my 300D.
Why can't you use flare unions?
I have drilled out the male threaded part on a 3/8(.375") fitting and made a 3/8"->10mm(.393") connection for my turbo's oil line. I imagine that you can get away with something similar for the brakes
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Also going to the PaP tomorrow, I saw an online listing for a 74 280-class. I am hoping beyond hope that its a 107 chassis, so I can get the wheel spindles for the front. We'll see what ball joints will work with this spindle.
I still need to fasten down the metal lines that I ran tonight, but I got the fuel lines in place. I also decided that the fuel filler for my truck is going to be under the license plate, kinda like an old box chevy. For the factory setup, the fuel lines were run along the passenger side, but the Merc diesel has the fuel stuff on the driver side. With the fuel tank in place, I was able to figure out how I wanted to run the lines. Got too dark to take pics.
Also going to the PaP tomorrow, I saw an online listing for a 74 280-class. I am hoping beyond hope that its a 107 chassis, so I can get the wheel spindles for the front. We'll see what ball joints will work with this spindle.
So I was able to get to the PaP last week, and after 2 hours in the hot GA sun with a pickle fork and an assortment of wrenches, I was able to get the spindles from the 280 out. They will work, but will require some modification to accept the w124 brakes and hub.
Basically, on the spindle itself, I will need to have a spacer made so that the lower hub bearing doesn't go down as far, this will be pretty simple to have fabricated. Once the spacer is in place, the w124 hub will slide right on and all the bearings will be in the right place. I will be doing new wheel bearings (of course.) I will also need to make a new bracket to hold the caliper in place, it should be easy enough.
For my fun brake issues, I found out that the thread pitch for the Mercedes brake lines are M10-1.0. I also found out that the Mazda's pitch is M10-1.0. So I am confused as to why I am getting leaks. I will probably purchase new brake hoses for all 4 wheels, I'm not going to be screwing around with stopping performance.
Ball joints, I'm going to be using the 280s ball joints (new of course.) AutohausAZ has them at a good price, must not be a good seller for them.
Plans to continue the bracing of my frame today got cancelled by the weather, can't weld in the rain
So I was able to get to the PaP last week, and after 2 hours in the hot GA sun with a pickle fork and an assortment of wrenches, I was able to get the spindles from the 280 out. They will work, but will require some modification to accept the w124 brakes and hub.
Basically, on the spindle itself, I will need to have a spacer made so that the lower hub bearing doesn't go down as far, this will be pretty simple to have fabricated. Once the spacer is in place, the w124 hub will slide right on and all the bearings will be in the right place. I will be doing new wheel bearings (of course.) I will also need to make a new bracket to hold the caliper in place, it should be easy enough.
For my fun brake issues, I found out that the thread pitch for the Mercedes brake lines are M10-1.0. I also found out that the Mazda's pitch is M10-1.0. So I am confused as to why I am getting leaks. I will probably purchase new brake hoses for all 4 wheels, I'm not going to be screwing around with stopping performance.
Ball joints, I'm going to be using the 280s ball joints (new of course.) AutohausAZ has them at a good price, must not be a good seller for them.
![[Image: IMG_20130922_171253_424_zpse1b67bb6.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130922_171253_424_zpse1b67bb6.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20130922_171300_809_zpscc4b8847.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130922_171300_809_zpscc4b8847.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20130922_194924_540_zps57ce721e.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130922_194924_540_zps57ce721e.jpg.html)
After careful consideration, it would seem to be in my best interests to either find a set of wheel bearings that will fit the Mercedes hub and the Mazda spindle, or to machine the Mercedes hub to fit the Mazda bearings. Another option is to modify the Mazda spindle to be the same geometry as the Mercedes spindle, the Mazda spindle is a little fatter in diameter versus the Mercedes, the lengths are very close to the same though, so some good news. In may also need to grind down the hub a bit on the rear (likely 1/8-1/16") so that I can keep the stock Mazda geometry. So the 280 spindles that I paid $50 for would become a complete waste. Live and learn, eh?
The brake caliper mount will be a piece of cake, the lower bolt hole is going to line up just fine, the upper one clears enough that making an adapter will be a piece of cake.
While I would love to use the Mercedes spindle, the fact that it requires a strut or a very fancy adapter is highly unattractive. That and I would need a ball joint adapter as well turns me off from this.
So it turns out that I might be able to replace the engine/transmission in my GF's Cougar for a lot less $$$ than anticipated, so that means more $$$ will be available for this project. Good thing, since I'm going to be needing custom machine work performed.
After careful consideration, it would seem to be in my best interests to either find a set of wheel bearings that will fit the Mercedes hub and the Mazda spindle, or to machine the Mercedes hub to fit the Mazda bearings. Another option is to modify the Mazda spindle to be the same geometry as the Mercedes spindle, the Mazda spindle is a little fatter in diameter versus the Mercedes, the lengths are very close to the same though, so some good news. In may also need to grind down the hub a bit on the rear (likely 1/8-1/16") so that I can keep the stock Mazda geometry. So the 280 spindles that I paid $50 for would become a complete waste. Live and learn, eh?
The brake caliper mount will be a piece of cake, the lower bolt hole is going to line up just fine, the upper one clears enough that making an adapter will be a piece of cake.
While I would love to use the Mercedes spindle, the fact that it requires a strut or a very fancy adapter is highly unattractive. That and I would need a ball joint adapter as well turns me off from this.
82 300SD-this engine may go in the 78...-Mary Jane
78 300CD-may be getting a new engine and rear end...-Brunhilde
82 300CD-uhhh race car project???-Gerda
85 300SD- the womans daily ITS F**KING PINK!-Tsybil
92 F350 CC LB dually-back up/tow pig/long haul land yacht.-Betsey
![[Image: PicMonkeyCollage_zpsc1d9cd5f.jpg]](http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/1911diesel/media/PicMonkeyCollage_zpsc1d9cd5f.jpg.html)
1911diesel
09-25-2013, 03:06 PM #28you should totally get your chick a 300sd. their big safe, and i dont know if you ever even plan on kids but their frickin tanks! and you know how hard it is to blow up one of these old benzs? and if she does manage to F**k it up, you have parts! its a win all around! and really if you have to work on it, what would you rather work on, that cougar or a nice 300sd? and now instead of dreading the day it goes boom or smash, your waiting on the day so you have a plethora of parts begging to get played with... or maybe thats just me...
82 300SD-this engine may go in the 78...-Mary Jane
78 300CD-may be getting a new engine and rear end...-Brunhilde
82 300CD-uhhh race car project???-Gerda
85 300SD- the womans daily ITS F**KING PINK!-Tsybil
92 F350 CC LB dually-back up/tow pig/long haul land yacht.-Betsey
![[Image: IMG_20130926_182252_657_zpsd5346df5.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130926_182252_657_zpsd5346df5.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20130926_182316_762_zps3b9a19a2.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20130926_182316_762_zps3b9a19a2.jpg.html)
Don't discount the Cougar guys, it's a really slick car, I like it a lot! There is also no chance that I can convince my GF to #1, consider any car not made in the current millennium, and #2, to ever own or drive a diesel. Even in a brand new 2013 VW TDI she got dizzy, claims that it's the fuel that makes her sick. FWIW, I didn't tell her that it was a diesel until she needed pepto.
Fuel lines have been secured in the rear.
Don't discount the Cougar guys, it's a really slick car, I like it a lot! There is also no chance that I can convince my GF to #1, consider any car not made in the current millennium, and #2, to ever own or drive a diesel. Even in a brand new 2013 VW TDI she got dizzy, claims that it's the fuel that makes her sick. FWIW, I didn't tell her that it was a diesel until she needed pepto.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-26-2013, 07:02 PM #30What engine is in the cougar? The lima?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Ball joints and steering linkages arrived as well, so soon I'll be able to put the front of my truck back together.
Still need:
Body lift, 2"
Custom Driveshaft flanges so I can use u-joints and not the flex discs
front shocks converted to coilovers
instrument cluster
Got the front wheel hubs sent off to the machine shop, I need the bearing seating surface drilled out to fit the larger Mazda outer wheel bearing. For the inner wheel bearing I did quite a bit of research. What I found (by comparing dimensions in a Timken catalog with the MB and Mazda dimensions) was that a wheel bearing and race part #s L68149 and L68110 were what I needed. Using O'Reilly's website, I was able to find a compatible vehicle that used these. Turns out the application was a 1986 BMW 735i front inner wheel bearing. I bought 2 and learned that they do indeed fit perfectly.
Ball joints and steering linkages arrived as well, so soon I'll be able to put the front of my truck back together.
Still need:
Body lift, 2"
Custom Driveshaft flanges so I can use u-joints and not the flex discs
front shocks converted to coilovers
instrument cluster
82 300SD-this engine may go in the 78...-Mary Jane
78 300CD-may be getting a new engine and rear end...-Brunhilde
82 300CD-uhhh race car project???-Gerda
85 300SD- the womans daily ITS F**KING PINK!-Tsybil
92 F350 CC LB dually-back up/tow pig/long haul land yacht.-Betsey
1911diesel
10-05-2013, 04:29 AM #33your moving right along! cant wait to see 4 MB rims on that mazda!
82 300SD-this engine may go in the 78...-Mary Jane
78 300CD-may be getting a new engine and rear end...-Brunhilde
82 300CD-uhhh race car project???-Gerda
85 300SD- the womans daily ITS F**KING PINK!-Tsybil
92 F350 CC LB dually-back up/tow pig/long haul land yacht.-Betsey
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
So are you doing a behind the plate fuel fill? Spacing kinda reminds me of a 115 fill location, to one side of the plate
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
@JB3, I'm either going to do a behind the plate, or to put a hinge on a tail light and route the line that way. I need to get the proper bed, and to put the lift spacers on to know how exactly I'm going to do it. The behind the plate though I think is going to be the easiest, as I can rob a caprice/cutlass/delta88/cadillac of the license plate setup.
@ 1911diesel, Me neither, and all I need to get for that to happen is a pair of shocks and to get my hubs back. I also need to get a 4th MB wheel to match, the 300 had one that wasn't the same one, looked like a 190 wheel. I see em all the time at PaP so that won't be hard.
@JB3, I'm either going to do a behind the plate, or to put a hinge on a tail light and route the line that way. I need to get the proper bed, and to put the lift spacers on to know how exactly I'm going to do it. The behind the plate though I think is going to be the easiest, as I can rob a caprice/cutlass/delta88/cadillac of the license plate setup.
First thing, an acceptable before picture. Not much to compare it with as the front wheels are still off.
![[Image: IMG_20131102_141332_107_zpsa1bb541f.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/body%20lift/IMG_20131102_141332_107_zpsa1bb541f.jpg.html)
and a night after pic
![[Image: IMG_20131103_181223_681_zps031911a1.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/body%20lift/IMG_20131103_181223_681_zps031911a1.jpg.html)
closer
![[Image: IMG_20131103_181233_891_zps33506f57.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/body%20lift/IMG_20131103_181233_891_zps33506f57.jpg.html)
The hood does close all the way, seems to be about 1/2" from engine to the hood, a bubble hood might be in my future as well if the vibrations hit the hood. But for now I'm happy
By the way, notice the nice suspension lift I have in the rear from the IRS Coilover upgrade I have?
Ok the cab is lifted. I haven't done the bed yet because I'm doing something different back there.
First thing, an acceptable before picture. Not much to compare it with as the front wheels are still off.
and a night after pic
closer
The hood does close all the way, seems to be about 1/2" from engine to the hood, a bubble hood might be in my future as well if the vibrations hit the hood. But for now I'm happy
By the way, notice the nice suspension lift I have in the rear from the IRS Coilover upgrade I have?
I still have to fine tune the final position of the shifter and adjust it so there is no slop. It got too dark for pictures, but I'll take a couple.
I figured out my shifter situation. I ended up getting an automatic shifter from another Mazda and modify it to work with the B series transmission. The MB setup has the leg on the left side, the Mazda has the leg on the right side. I had to cut the leg of the Mazda shifter, move it over to the left, and extend it so that it has the same range as the MB shifter.
I still have to fine tune the final position of the shifter and adjust it so there is no slop. It got too dark for pictures, but I'll take a couple.
![[Image: IMG_20131123_113840_464_zps1ee6cabf.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20131123_113840_464_zps1ee6cabf.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20131123_114001_759_zps6562a4f7.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20131123_114001_759_zps6562a4f7.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20131123_113949_676_zps4ea73a20.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20131123_113949_676_zps4ea73a20.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20131123_113919_501_zps59a6dc4c.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20131123_113919_501_zps59a6dc4c.jpg.html)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-26-2013, 10:24 PM #3910/10 Would drive this truck off into the sunset
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Soon though I'm going to be getting another truck, an 87 B2200 that has been lowered and has a custom grille. That one isn't going to be diesel, getting a Weber 38 and a header. A truck to drive for a while until I finish this one.
Getting this:
![[Image: 20131130_111245_zps85fe70bf.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/stuff%20to%20help%20out/20131130_111245_zps85fe70bf.jpg.html)
this is the cost:
1989 Audi 200 Quattro that doesn't run and I don't have the expertise with these to deal with it
![[Image: IMG_20131109_152843_392_zpse1f2ab79-1.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/stuff%20I%20sold/IMG_20131109_152843_392_zpse1f2ab79-1.jpg.html)
Thanks for the boost in confidence. I got the truck dragged around the yard today, finally off of cinder blocks. I still need to adjust the suspension, finalize the drive shaft, and some of the other stuff I typed above. Having the truck on the side of the shop instead of being further away really does help out a lot.
Soon though I'm going to be getting another truck, an 87 B2200 that has been lowered and has a custom grille. That one isn't going to be diesel, getting a Weber 38 and a header. A truck to drive for a while until I finish this one.
Getting this:
this is the cost:
1989 Audi 200 Quattro that doesn't run and I don't have the expertise with these to deal with it
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-12-2013, 10:35 AM #41I have a spare lima tube header(94?)(no egr, has o2 bung), and a 98 4-2-1 cast iron header(has egr+o2 bung) if you want either for like $10 (to motivate my brother into digging them out of storage) +shipping
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Long term plans for "Outlaw" (still working on the name) is to put in a Kia FE3 dual can injected motor, once Redemption is all dialed in and setup well enough to my liking.
87 is different, it uses a Mazda block. I do have a header for it already (and other parts) in my shop. I thank you for the offer though.
Long term plans for "Outlaw" (still working on the name) is to put in a Kia FE3 dual can injected motor, once Redemption is all dialed in and setup well enough to my liking.
Ok, so Outlaw is home, it cleaned up pretty good. It cranks but it isn't getting fuel, so it is getting a new fuel pump and filters. I learned that the torsion bars were indeed taken out of it, so I will be taking the bars from Redemption and putting them into Outlaw. Redemption is going to be getting coilovers with heavy duty springs in the front.
Back to the build thread in the title, the gauges for this truck are driving me fricking nuts! Trying to get the Mercedes gauges to work just isn't going to happen, I think that they require the ECU and its long gone. So what I'm left with doing is to take a stock Mazda gauge housing, shelling it out, and installing the MB speedometer onto a piece of painted wood or something. I still want idiot lights for the basic systems. I'll figure it out.
So its been a while since I've done anything to any of my trucks. I installed my trusty old stereo from my Civic (sold) into my 190E 2.3-16. That and removing the rest of my parted out 124 is about all that I've done recently.
Back to the build thread in the title, the gauges for this truck are driving me fricking nuts! Trying to get the Mercedes gauges to work just isn't going to happen, I think that they require the ECU and its long gone. So what I'm left with doing is to take a stock Mazda gauge housing, shelling it out, and installing the MB speedometer onto a piece of painted wood or something. I still want idiot lights for the basic systems. I'll figure it out.
Decided to do something that I thought was going to be easy yesterday, turned out to be a headache. Tried relocating the oil cooler, the body lift put the oil hoses pretty close to the drive belt and I didn't feel comfortable with that. I'm now wondering if it would be detrimental to use a smaller oil cooler with this engine, as using the bigger Mercedes cooler with the bigger hoses is proving to be difficult. Will try again after I replace the master cylinder on Outlaw, gotta have a clutch petal if I'm going to shift.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-23-2014, 09:09 PM #46A smaller cooler with a dedicated electric fan would probably be okay.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
At this point, I'm going to need to do a new core support, probably like mymmemoryloss did for his. For now I'm just going to leave it, get everything into position, then I'm going to take it all off and make it to acceptable dimensions.
Pics as promised:
![[Image: IMG_20140302_190016_036_zps7d5164b1.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20140302_190016_036_zps7d5164b1.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20140302_190025_903_zps01196a44.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20140302_190025_903_zps01196a44.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20140302_190044_932_zps558a9ed4.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20140302_190044_932_zps558a9ed4.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_20140302_190059_546_zps5e81143e.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/IMG_20140302_190059_546_zps5e81143e.jpg.html)
You can see the hard oil lines above the motor mount in this picture. The rubber hose ends are joined at a point below the AC compressor.
![[Image: 2013-06-03_19-17-48_828_zpseceb76ed.jpg]](http://s210.photobucket.com/user/truckmike520/media/Diesel%20Conversion/om602%20conversion/2013-06-03_19-17-48_828_zpseceb76ed.jpg.html)
Did some work with the oil cooler today, man this thing has been a thorn in my rear for a few days now. At first I was trying to mount it in front of the radiator, but there just wasn't enough room to clear the grille or the radiator. Next I cut a slot in front of the driverside wheel well, but the hoses were too close to the power steering pulley, so that wasn't going to work for me. A few more modifications to my already f*cked up core support, then I had a good idea. I cut up the hard oil lines, flared up the ends, slipped the hose over the ends, then used clamps. Now it sits just like it should.
At this point, I'm going to need to do a new core support, probably like mymmemoryloss did for his. For now I'm just going to leave it, get everything into position, then I'm going to take it all off and make it to acceptable dimensions.
Pics as promised:
You can see the hard oil lines above the motor mount in this picture. The rubber hose ends are joined at a point below the AC compressor.
raysorenson
03-04-2014, 10:14 PM #50Not hatin or anything. It might work great. I've done it on R134 low sides and never had one blow off. I just wanted to make sure you were aware.
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