W123 Vacuum Leak
W123 Vacuum Leak
I'm having a problem diagnosing a vacuum leak. The door locks always work when I'm driving. After shutting off the engine, I have to rush out of the car to be able to lock all doors with the key turn.
If I wait over 20 seconds after shutting off the engine, the key turn won't lock the remaining 3 doors.
Anyone have an idea what is causing this or how to fix?
Thanks,
Jim
Hi,
I'm having a problem diagnosing a vacuum leak. The door locks always work when I'm driving. After shutting off the engine, I have to rush out of the car to be able to lock all doors with the key turn.
If I wait over 20 seconds after shutting off the engine, the key turn won't lock the remaining 3 doors.
Anyone have an idea what is causing this or how to fix?
Thanks,
Jim
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-26-2009, 03:07 AM #2obviously a slow air leak... try isolating each vacuum system and then once you figger out what system is causing the problem, isolate each 'circuit' until you find the culprit... that being said, it might just be better to replace all the hose and be done with it...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
ForcedInduction
06-26-2009, 04:01 AM
#3
Use this diagram. The two 4-way connectors are under the front carpets and plastic covers. At those two junctions you will be able to test all but two actuators individually and isolate the leaking one(s) without needlessly taking off any door panels.
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