Oil cooler hose issues
Oil cooler hose issues
06-22-2009, 04:38 AM
#1
I embarked on this task today, but I had the unfortunate luck of the lower oil cooler fitting stripping as it came off.
Compare to the normal fitting.
This is the fate all faulty parts deserve.
Anyways.
The MW has an oil supply line that must be blocked. I made my own as I couldn't find any metric threaded plugs.
If it weren't for the cooler fitting I would have finished. So, this is how it sits right now until new hoses get here. There is a 300SD in the yards I'll grab the fittings from.
This post was last modified: 07-01-2009, 02:44 AM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
06-22-2009, 04:38 AM
#1
Changing the injection pump sucks, there is no nice way about it. Fuel and oil go everywhere, the oil filter housing has to come off to remove the MW-pump, etc etc
I embarked on this task today, but I had the unfortunate luck of the lower oil cooler fitting stripping as it came off.
Compare to the normal fitting.
This is the fate all faulty parts deserve.
Anyways.
The MW has an oil supply line that must be blocked. I made my own as I couldn't find any metric threaded plugs.
If it weren't for the cooler fitting I would have finished. So, this is how it sits right now until new hoses get here. There is a 300SD in the yards I'll grab the fittings from.
06-22-2009, 09:36 AM
#2
(06-22-2009, 04:38 AM)ForcedInduction I embarked on this task today, but I had the unfortunate luck of the lower oil cooler fitting stripping as it came off.
at least you were able to get it to separate... Ive seen threads galled so bad that you had to destroy both sides to break the union...the other side is probably pretty jacked up too... do you have another hose to use? if not, this would be a good a time as any to switch over to stainless flex lines. I think I have about $125 or so into that and it'll be cheaper in the future if/whenever I have to swap them out (prolly less than $100 for flex lines).
This post was last modified: 06-22-2009, 09:38 AM by SurfRodder.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-22-2009, 09:36 AM #2(06-22-2009, 04:38 AM)ForcedInduction I embarked on this task today, but I had the unfortunate luck of the lower oil cooler fitting stripping as it came off.
at least you were able to get it to separate... Ive seen threads galled so bad that you had to destroy both sides to break the union...the other side is probably pretty jacked up too... do you have another hose to use? if not, this would be a good a time as any to switch over to stainless flex lines. I think I have about $125 or so into that and it'll be cheaper in the future if/whenever I have to swap them out (prolly less than $100 for flex lines).
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
06-22-2009, 07:43 PM
#3
![[Image: push-lok-hose.jpg]](http://www.unionvalve.co.kr/hose-tubing-quick/push-lok-hose.jpg)
![[Image: PUSHLOK&.jpg]](http://www.connectedblake.com/RACOR/Components-Kits/PUSHLOK&.jpg)
This post was last modified: 06-22-2009, 07:58 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
06-22-2009, 07:43 PM
#3
Humm, good hydraulic hose would be even easier. Its nearly a straight shot from the filter to the cooler bends and there is a Parker store near by. I need to go there for the steering return hose anyways. I have been using their blue high temperature hydraulic hose for my turbo's oil feed line without any issues for 3 years. Even sitting near the exhaust manifold has caused no problems. I'd bet 8' of their 1/2" hose and 4 or 8 fittings would come in under the $120 two new cooler hoses would cost. Thanks for the idea SurfRodder!
06-23-2009, 01:05 AM
#4
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-23-2009, 01:05 AM #4de nada... if i ever get off my ass Ill post some pics of my earls lines!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
06-23-2009, 07:23 PM
#5
![[Image: IMG_1947.sized.jpg]](http://www.coastalboatsales.com/jfraley/gallery/albums/scubaboo/IMG_1947.sized.jpg)
except mine are metric on one end and SAE on the other
( to attach to the marine oil cooler )
cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel
trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel
boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
oel_brenner
06-23-2009, 07:23 PM #5did the exact same thing for the 617's in my boat..
except mine are metric on one end and SAE on the other
( to attach to the marine oil cooler )
cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel
trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel
boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
06-23-2009, 08:42 PM
#6
oel_brenner, did your fittings go directly into the filter housing or use the stock flare fittings?
I got this picture from one of your videos, do you have a better shot? I'm not sure if I can do straight fittings or if I'll need them to have a 45* at the filter housing.
This post was last modified: 06-23-2009, 08:43 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
06-23-2009, 08:42 PM
#6
What a coincidence, there was a 76 300D in the junkyard today and I noticed its oil cooler hoses happened to be a straight shot to the cooler. None of that under the engine mount nonsense.
oel_brenner, did your fittings go directly into the filter housing or use the stock flare fittings?
I got this picture from one of your videos, do you have a better shot? I'm not sure if I can do straight fittings or if I'll need them to have a 45* at the filter housing.
06-24-2009, 10:19 PM
#7
(06-23-2009, 08:42 PM)ForcedInduction What a coincidence, there was a 76 300D in the junkyard today and I noticed its oil cooler hoses happened to be a straight shot to the cooler. None of that under the engine mount nonsense.Wondered when I first saw the setup & what was involved in replacing the hoses/lines, why they went that route, but figured there musta been some or a good reason...
Mine I think were original & have seen a few others that looked to be original so suppose until it comes time to deal with them, they can last a looong time & give good service.
This post was last modified: 06-24-2009, 10:23 PM by 85-300Dt.
(06-23-2009, 08:42 PM)ForcedInduction What a coincidence, there was a 76 300D in the junkyard today and I noticed its oil cooler hoses happened to be a straight shot to the cooler. None of that under the engine mount nonsense.Wondered when I first saw the setup & what was involved in replacing the hoses/lines, why they went that route, but figured there musta been some or a good reason...
Mine I think were original & have seen a few others that looked to be original so suppose until it comes time to deal with them, they can last a looong time & give good service.
06-25-2009, 10:13 AM
#8
(06-23-2009, 01:05 AM)SurfRodder de nada... if i ever get off my ass Ill post some pics of my earls lines!
SurfRodder and oel_brenner, can you post some pictures before Monday so I know what I need to get?
ForcedInduction
06-25-2009, 10:13 AM
#8
(06-23-2009, 01:05 AM)SurfRodder de nada... if i ever get off my ass Ill post some pics of my earls lines!
SurfRodder and oel_brenner, can you post some pictures before Monday so I know what I need to get?
06-25-2009, 11:20 AM
#9
This post was last modified: 06-25-2009, 11:20 AM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
06-25-2009, 11:20 AM
#9
Never mind. I talked with Tom Judd and he has convinced me that installing new OEM hoses, that are proven to last 20y/200k+, is the better option. It will give me a reason to replace my soft engine mounts, remove the last bits of A/C and I will have 2 less hoses in my way around the injection pump. Besides, these fabrication/custom jobs rarely work out as nicely as they do in my head.
06-25-2009, 06:23 PM
#10
(06-25-2009, 11:20 AM)ForcedInduction Never mind. I talked with Tom Judd and he has convinced me that installing new OEM hoses, that are proven to last 20y/200k+, is the better option.
If the stockers last 20 years, im sure mine will prolly last at least 100
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-25-2009, 06:23 PM #10(06-25-2009, 11:20 AM)ForcedInduction Never mind. I talked with Tom Judd and he has convinced me that installing new OEM hoses, that are proven to last 20y/200k+, is the better option.
If the stockers last 20 years, im sure mine will prolly last at least 100
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
06-27-2009, 10:16 AM
#11
Looks like I'm going to the Parker Store after all.
ForcedInduction
06-27-2009, 10:16 AM
#11
Well, schisse. According to both the local dealers the oil cooler hoses are discontinued.
Looks like I'm going to the Parker Store after all.
06-27-2009, 01:32 PM
#13
(06-27-2009, 11:47 AM)85-300Dt What size are the fittings?
your best bet is to pull the fittings from the oil cooler and from the filter housing of a junker and take that to whomever is going to make your hoses... they can get you set up with full length flex lines that have the proper ends on them...
...or you can go the way I did (initial cost is slightly higher, but long run is potentially cheaper) and remove the both cooler lines from a junker and get weld on fittings for standard AN lines and TIG them in place... I can now (if ever necessary) have flex lines made almost anywhere and replace in about 15 minutes and it still uses a bit of stock bracketry to keep things fairly close to what the factory intended... I dont remember off the top of my head if the AN lines I used were -12 or -16, but theyre pretty big and if you bring an old set in, they can help you out.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-27-2009, 01:32 PM #13(06-27-2009, 11:47 AM)85-300Dt What size are the fittings?
your best bet is to pull the fittings from the oil cooler and from the filter housing of a junker and take that to whomever is going to make your hoses... they can get you set up with full length flex lines that have the proper ends on them...
...or you can go the way I did (initial cost is slightly higher, but long run is potentially cheaper) and remove the both cooler lines from a junker and get weld on fittings for standard AN lines and TIG them in place... I can now (if ever necessary) have flex lines made almost anywhere and replace in about 15 minutes and it still uses a bit of stock bracketry to keep things fairly close to what the factory intended... I dont remember off the top of my head if the AN lines I used were -12 or -16, but theyre pretty big and if you bring an old set in, they can help you out.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
06-27-2009, 04:59 PM
#15
Quote:your best bet is to pull the fittings from the oil cooler and from the filter housing of a junkerThe fitting size/type on the oil cooler and filter housing are the same. The housing fittings take a thin 24mm wrench and cooler hose takes 27mm. (15/16" and 1-1/16"). I don't doubt they will have something to fit the filter's fitting hole but we'll see if they can match the outer end. I may end up having to resuse the cooler hose ends with the new hose.
This post was last modified: 06-27-2009, 05:01 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
06-27-2009, 04:59 PM
#15
I'll find out monday.
Quote:your best bet is to pull the fittings from the oil cooler and from the filter housing of a junkerThe fitting size/type on the oil cooler and filter housing are the same. The housing fittings take a thin 24mm wrench and cooler hose takes 27mm. (15/16" and 1-1/16"). I don't doubt they will have something to fit the filter's fitting hole but we'll see if they can match the outer end. I may end up having to resuse the cooler hose ends with the new hose.
06-30-2009, 09:59 PM
#18
New problem: When cold it will only idle at 1/2 throttle, after a minute it will idle about 600rpm and tops out at a very low power 4000rpm. Fresh oil, prefilled the IP with oil to the spill port level, timing 26*BTDC verified with drip tube and no unusual combustion sounds.
One odd thing though; when in P/N, revving the engine will try to slightly roll the car forward but not enough to actually move it. R/D/S/L work normal (just lacking any power).
Any ideas? I'm going to try adjusting the idle screw first.
ForcedInduction
06-30-2009, 09:59 PM
#18
Thats all over with.
New problem: When cold it will only idle at 1/2 throttle, after a minute it will idle about 600rpm and tops out at a very low power 4000rpm. Fresh oil, prefilled the IP with oil to the spill port level, timing 26*BTDC verified with drip tube and no unusual combustion sounds.
One odd thing though; when in P/N, revving the engine will try to slightly roll the car forward but not enough to actually move it. R/D/S/L work normal (just lacking any power).
Any ideas? I'm going to try adjusting the idle screw first.
06-30-2009, 10:44 PM
#19
Power was the linkage adjustment, I had to change the alignment of the main thorttle shaft. It scoots pretty well now.
The real pisser? #5 STILL nails. It is a combustion issue, cracking the injector line causes misfire and no more sound.
This post was last modified: 06-30-2009, 10:45 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
06-30-2009, 10:44 PM
#19
Well 3/4CCW on the screw seems to have taken care of the idle RPM, though the engine is fully warm now. We'll see if it sticks after it sits overnight.
Power was the linkage adjustment, I had to change the alignment of the main thorttle shaft. It scoots pretty well now.
The real pisser? #5 STILL nails. It is a combustion issue, cracking the injector line causes misfire and no more sound.
07-01-2009, 02:43 AM
#21
(07-01-2009, 12:30 AM)Motorhead What do you think is wrong with #5, injector?
I don't know. It did it with the original injectors, 265 nozzles with the MW and now the 265s with the M. May be time for a compression test. If it doesn't change in the next few weeks I may take the valvecover off and triple check my last adjustment.
This post was last modified: 07-01-2009, 02:46 AM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
07-01-2009, 02:43 AM
#21
(07-01-2009, 12:30 AM)Motorhead What do you think is wrong with #5, injector?
I don't know. It did it with the original injectors, 265 nozzles with the MW and now the 265s with the M. May be time for a compression test. If it doesn't change in the next few weeks I may take the valvecover off and triple check my last adjustment.
07-01-2009, 03:17 AM
#22
It took an extra trip to the Parker Store once I discovered the lower hose uses a smaller diameter (1/2") than the upper (5/8"). Subtract the A/C compressor, add the new metal lines, add some double clamping and the results are quite satisfying.
The bottom radiator fitting is a short straight piece instead of the neck like on the upper. No reason you couldn't use the angled fitting and keep the A/C though. In my case it was motivation to remove that 20lbs of useless metal for good.
I also got some replacement hose for that leaky old steering return.
This post was last modified: 10-15-2009, 11:35 AM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
07-01-2009, 03:17 AM
#22
I dared fate and took my camera into the junkyard for some pictures before I removed the hoses.
It took an extra trip to the Parker Store once I discovered the lower hose uses a smaller diameter (1/2") than the upper (5/8"). Subtract the A/C compressor, add the new metal lines, add some double clamping and the results are quite satisfying.
The bottom radiator fitting is a short straight piece instead of the neck like on the upper. No reason you couldn't use the angled fitting and keep the A/C though. In my case it was motivation to remove that 20lbs of useless metal for good.
I also got some replacement hose for that leaky old steering return.
07-01-2009, 07:41 AM
#23
GREASY_BEAST
07-01-2009, 07:41 AM #23There's something creepy about trusting the life of the engine to worm clamps... If an oil cooler hose goes, you have what.. 15-20 seconds to get it shut down before the oil is gone? I'd try to get some beefy T-Bolt clamps or something like that. I'm sure double clamping with worm clamps is okay, but it's just such a critical part, you know?
07-01-2009, 03:33 PM
#24
(07-01-2009, 07:41 AM)GREASY_BEAST There's something creepy about trusting the life of the engine to worm clamps.
No more risky than trusting the compression of a metal crimp fitting except that a worm clam can be replaced or retightened.
ForcedInduction
07-01-2009, 03:33 PM
#24
(07-01-2009, 07:41 AM)GREASY_BEAST There's something creepy about trusting the life of the engine to worm clamps.
No more risky than trusting the compression of a metal crimp fitting except that a worm clam can be replaced or retightened.
07-02-2009, 01:15 PM
#25
(07-01-2009, 03:33 PM)ForcedInduction(07-01-2009, 07:41 AM)GREASY_BEAST There's something creepy about trusting the life of the engine to worm clamps.
No more risky than trusting the compression of a metal crimp fitting except that a worm clam can be replaced or retightened.
I've looked into this to some extent & have read a few reports of hose clamp setups suddenly letting loose.. ( I'd have to dig for the posts..) sometimes many months later..
Good thread here on the topic & author diesel911 (& others..) don't seem to have a prob with worm gear hose clamps though I'd say this author put it well..
Quote:the problem with the worm gear clamps is that they strip after a certain point. I could never get them tight enough on any kind of lines that have high pressure.as well as there being discussion of other clamping options.
Page 6 of the particular thread along with waaaay more all round info.. here.
As to removal of the hoses & possibly saving the threads, there is this post,
Quote:If you are going to replace any of these hoses with brand new ones, then to remove the old hoses without ruining the threads on the male part, use a dremel with a little mini metal cut-off wheel to cut into the outer female fitting (screw collar?), perpendicular to the threads. You can cut right down into the threads on the male barb, but be careful to go no deeper than the threads. Then just take a flat screw driver and pry open the screw collar....even if you dont cut too deep and the threads on the screw collar are still connected, these will snap when you pry open, and the collar will easily unscrew with no further damage to male threads.
Two things to be careful about:
1. Dont cut any deeper than the threads on the male threaded barb, or you will cause structural weakening of the barb, and
2. Especially be careful not to cut into the sealing surface of the male threaded barb, or else it is toast.
& even if having wrecked the outer threads on the cooler, one poster tapped the inside & did this.
Quote:the inside of the oil cooler, i think it comes soldered from the factory? so i did a inside chase you could call it, then turned a brass elbow into it
very very very risky cos if the end\opening of the cooler would crack i would be crying cos that will cost money to fix
when my IC and all is done im gona post a bunch of pics
Lots more in the above with pros & cons of course, so just some bits.
This post was last modified: 07-02-2009, 01:29 PM by 85-300Dt.
(07-01-2009, 03:33 PM)ForcedInduction(07-01-2009, 07:41 AM)GREASY_BEAST There's something creepy about trusting the life of the engine to worm clamps.
No more risky than trusting the compression of a metal crimp fitting except that a worm clam can be replaced or retightened.
I've looked into this to some extent & have read a few reports of hose clamp setups suddenly letting loose.. ( I'd have to dig for the posts..) sometimes many months later..
Good thread here on the topic & author diesel911 (& others..) don't seem to have a prob with worm gear hose clamps though I'd say this author put it well..
Quote:the problem with the worm gear clamps is that they strip after a certain point. I could never get them tight enough on any kind of lines that have high pressure.as well as there being discussion of other clamping options.
Page 6 of the particular thread along with waaaay more all round info.. here.
As to removal of the hoses & possibly saving the threads, there is this post,
Quote:If you are going to replace any of these hoses with brand new ones, then to remove the old hoses without ruining the threads on the male part, use a dremel with a little mini metal cut-off wheel to cut into the outer female fitting (screw collar?), perpendicular to the threads. You can cut right down into the threads on the male barb, but be careful to go no deeper than the threads. Then just take a flat screw driver and pry open the screw collar....even if you dont cut too deep and the threads on the screw collar are still connected, these will snap when you pry open, and the collar will easily unscrew with no further damage to male threads.
Two things to be careful about:
1. Dont cut any deeper than the threads on the male threaded barb, or you will cause structural weakening of the barb, and
2. Especially be careful not to cut into the sealing surface of the male threaded barb, or else it is toast.
& even if having wrecked the outer threads on the cooler, one poster tapped the inside & did this.
Quote:the inside of the oil cooler, i think it comes soldered from the factory? so i did a inside chase you could call it, then turned a brass elbow into it
very very very risky cos if the end\opening of the cooler would crack i would be crying cos that will cost money to fix
when my IC and all is done im gona post a bunch of pics
Lots more in the above with pros & cons of course, so just some bits.
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