BAD NEWS - GOOD NEWS -- NEED ADVICE PLEASE
BAD NEWS - GOOD NEWS -- NEED ADVICE PLEASE
Poll: Which Option or Course of Action to Take
You do not have permission to vote in this poll.
Fix the Phoenix Project's Frame ($600-$700)
Get the 300cd ($500-$750)
03-15-2013, 01:45 PM
#1
Got some news today. Looks like the body shop who did the initial work on my Phoenix Project may have royally screwed up things to the point it is not cost effective to undue the front end issues. Assuming that is true, and the prognosis will be fully known next week, I have some options:
1. I can part out the Phoenix Project which has some virtually impeccable body parts, EG Doors, trunk lid, et cet. Any one interested in some Astral Blue body parts? I will re-list this in the FS section. Or, any one interested in a W123 which is in great shape from the firewall backwards ? This is why I got the car in the first place as it is beautiful from the firewall back. If I keep it, I am most likely looking at $600 to $700 to undo the damage and correct the frame / unibody and then I still need to get the front clip painted and put together.
2. The body shop (new one) has a 1984 300cd on the premises that has been sitting for 25 years per the owner. I was wondering if anyone out there has had an engine / car sit for extended periods of time, e.g., years and what precautions did you take before trying to fire it up. I used to play with Packards about 20+ years ago so I am familiar with long term sitters, so changing the fluids and filters, and running new fuel since that stuff gets gummy after 5 years or so is a must. Also, a cup full of MMO in each cylinder and let that soak for a week and turning the engine by the crank bolt a few dozen times also to make sure nothing is sticking. I would pop in rebuilt injectors and do the valves and glow plugs, then try to fire it up. Any other pointers??? The odometer states 72K on the clock so I don't want to destroy the engine / drivetrain. No price ever discussed or even hinted at.
My thoughts are now converging on re-capturing my $250 bucks invested in towing the damm car around for the past 9 months plus the few bucks I got into the car for the inital purchase and dump that money in the 84 300cd if I can buy the coupe for around $500-$750 (max). I am assuming the car has no or minimal rust but the spare tire well was a fish tank -- totally full of water.
Any thoughts out there ? I am a little dissapointed at this point to say the least. I found an old-timer last week who knows the older MBs from a body-frame perspective, and he gave me the bad news today on my lunch break. He tried to talk me out of working on the Phoenix project any more as he clearly indicated that the first body shop guy was a total moron and that he virtually ruined the car. I am thinking he was correct since I did pester the first guy to put the car on the rack first before welding on the front clip, and that never happened. However, I deserve to some degree what I got because I went to a long term buddy when I have seen the work there before and it's generally "average" at best or sub-par typically for the past few years.
Thanks ... and poop ... and some more poop.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Howdy,
Got some news today. Looks like the body shop who did the initial work on my Phoenix Project may have royally screwed up things to the point it is not cost effective to undue the front end issues. Assuming that is true, and the prognosis will be fully known next week, I have some options:
1. I can part out the Phoenix Project which has some virtually impeccable body parts, EG Doors, trunk lid, et cet. Any one interested in some Astral Blue body parts? I will re-list this in the FS section. Or, any one interested in a W123 which is in great shape from the firewall backwards ? This is why I got the car in the first place as it is beautiful from the firewall back. If I keep it, I am most likely looking at $600 to $700 to undo the damage and correct the frame / unibody and then I still need to get the front clip painted and put together.
2. The body shop (new one) has a 1984 300cd on the premises that has been sitting for 25 years per the owner. I was wondering if anyone out there has had an engine / car sit for extended periods of time, e.g., years and what precautions did you take before trying to fire it up. I used to play with Packards about 20+ years ago so I am familiar with long term sitters, so changing the fluids and filters, and running new fuel since that stuff gets gummy after 5 years or so is a must. Also, a cup full of MMO in each cylinder and let that soak for a week and turning the engine by the crank bolt a few dozen times also to make sure nothing is sticking. I would pop in rebuilt injectors and do the valves and glow plugs, then try to fire it up. Any other pointers??? The odometer states 72K on the clock so I don't want to destroy the engine / drivetrain. No price ever discussed or even hinted at.
My thoughts are now converging on re-capturing my $250 bucks invested in towing the damm car around for the past 9 months plus the few bucks I got into the car for the inital purchase and dump that money in the 84 300cd if I can buy the coupe for around $500-$750 (max). I am assuming the car has no or minimal rust but the spare tire well was a fish tank -- totally full of water.
Any thoughts out there ? I am a little dissapointed at this point to say the least. I found an old-timer last week who knows the older MBs from a body-frame perspective, and he gave me the bad news today on my lunch break. He tried to talk me out of working on the Phoenix project any more as he clearly indicated that the first body shop guy was a total moron and that he virtually ruined the car. I am thinking he was correct since I did pester the first guy to put the car on the rack first before welding on the front clip, and that never happened. However, I deserve to some degree what I got because I went to a long term buddy when I have seen the work there before and it's generally "average" at best or sub-par typically for the past few years.
Thanks ... and poop ... and some more poop.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
03-15-2013, 02:46 PM
#2
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-15-2013, 02:46 PM #2I vote on saving your original project. Then get the CD to save from being scrapped later when your wife is in good mood
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
03-15-2013, 03:04 PM
#3
(03-15-2013, 02:46 PM)DeliveryValve I vote on saving your original project. Then get the CD to save from being scrapped later when your wife is in good mood
Hey DV,
I value your opinion ...
hmmm ... I am so mad at myself for not insisting on frame rack first, but then again I went to a "pro". I believe anything can be fixed, but I was so pumped on getting the car put together less the drivetrain by the end of the month .... poop again ...
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(03-15-2013, 02:46 PM)DeliveryValve I vote on saving your original project. Then get the CD to save from being scrapped later when your wife is in good mood
Hey DV,
I value your opinion ...
hmmm ... I am so mad at myself for not insisting on frame rack first, but then again I went to a "pro". I believe anything can be fixed, but I was so pumped on getting the car put together less the drivetrain by the end of the month .... poop again ...
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
03-15-2013, 03:26 PM
#4
Either way, I'd still fix it and stay on course with your plan.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-15-2013, 03:26 PM #4Question... what do you think is screwed up? Body panels don't line up. Was the part of inner fender where the upper control arm and upper spring perch replaced? Just getting the sense of the potential mess.
Either way, I'd still fix it and stay on course with your plan.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
03-15-2013, 03:31 PM
#5
the w123 coupes are the lightest w123 made
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
03-15-2013, 03:31 PM #5I had an 1982 300cd it was a blast to drive! If you roll down all of the windows there are no posts it makes it feel like a convertible with the sunroof open!
the w123 coupes are the lightest w123 made
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
03-15-2013, 03:47 PM
#6
(03-15-2013, 03:26 PM)DeliveryValve Question... what do you think is screwed up? Body panels don't line up. Was the part of inner fender where the upper control arm and upper spring perch replaced? Just getting the sense of the potential mess.
Either way, I'd still fix it and stay on course with your plan.
The driver side had an impact which "pushed" up the rail where it meets the cross member. It is off about 1 inch or so. This guy showed me all the issues and I was shocked how quickly and how accurate he was just eye balling it. He indicated he might not be able to bend it back into place because the first body shop guy cut out the original metal and welded in a new front part along the lines where the body seal goes. I am also super cautious of the body shop since if he can sell me on the doom and gloom, then that jacks up the costs. I am just wondering now how long does it really take to "un-bend" the frame. $100 bucks for placing on the rack and getting the prognosis. I am thinking that will be the make or break day.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(03-15-2013, 03:26 PM)DeliveryValve Question... what do you think is screwed up? Body panels don't line up. Was the part of inner fender where the upper control arm and upper spring perch replaced? Just getting the sense of the potential mess.
Either way, I'd still fix it and stay on course with your plan.
The driver side had an impact which "pushed" up the rail where it meets the cross member. It is off about 1 inch or so. This guy showed me all the issues and I was shocked how quickly and how accurate he was just eye balling it. He indicated he might not be able to bend it back into place because the first body shop guy cut out the original metal and welded in a new front part along the lines where the body seal goes. I am also super cautious of the body shop since if he can sell me on the doom and gloom, then that jacks up the costs. I am just wondering now how long does it really take to "un-bend" the frame. $100 bucks for placing on the rack and getting the prognosis. I am thinking that will be the make or break day.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
03-15-2013, 04:01 PM
#7
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
03-15-2013, 04:01 PM #7It could be several hours depending on how many times and directions they need to set it up to pull from
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
03-15-2013, 05:05 PM
#8
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-15-2013, 05:05 PM #8A 300CD with a little bit of performance tuning would be the cat's pajamas
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
03-17-2013, 12:27 AM
#10
(03-16-2013, 11:30 AM)OM616 I could use a set of 123 doors lol
I got a front passenger side door you can have for shipping cost. It's just taking up space.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-17-2013, 12:27 AM #10(03-16-2013, 11:30 AM)OM616 I could use a set of 123 doors lol
I got a front passenger side door you can have for shipping cost. It's just taking up space.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
03-17-2013, 10:01 AM
#11
I think you should get the CD. Those things are super cool, and it's not every day you find one laying around for that price
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Damn it. Stupid iPod made me vote fOr the wrong one.
I think you should get the CD. Those things are super cool, and it's not every day you find one laying around for that price
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
03-17-2013, 03:05 PM
#12
jonbobshinigin
03-17-2013, 03:05 PM #12My uncle purchase a 1969 220D a while back which had been in a garage since 1981. It had not been started since then and I do not think any precautions were made for "long term storage" when it was stored. Things were a bit tight but Pierre Hadary managed to get it freed up and I think he used an off the shelf product only. He let it sit for a week or two and gently turned it over a bit at a time. The car ran great!
03-17-2013, 03:38 PM
#13
(03-15-2013, 01:45 PM)Greazzer Howdy,
Got some news today. Looks like the body shop who did the initial work on my Phoenix Project may have royally screwed up things to the point it is not cost effective to undue the front end issues. Assuming that is true, and the prognosis will be fully known next week, I have some options:
1. I can part out the Phoenix Project which has some virtually impeccable body parts, EG Doors, trunk lid, et cet. Any one interested in some Astral Blue body parts? I will re-list this in the FS section. Or, any one interested in a W123 which is in great shape from the firewall backwards ? This is why I got the car in the first place as it is beautiful from the firewall back. If I keep it, I am most likely looking at $600 to $700 to undo the damage and correct the frame / unibody and then I still need to get the front clip painted and put together.
2. The body shop (new one) has a 1984 300cd on the premises that has been sitting for 25 years per the owner. I was wondering if anyone out there has had an engine / car sit for extended periods of time, e.g., years and what precautions did you take before trying to fire it up. I used to play with Packards about 20+ years ago so I am familiar with long term sitters, so changing the fluids and filters, and running new fuel since that stuff gets gummy after 5 years or so is a must. Also, a cup full of MMO in each cylinder and let that soak for a week and turning the engine by the crank bolt a few dozen times also to make sure nothing is sticking. I would pop in rebuilt injectors and do the valves and glow plugs, then try to fire it up. Any other pointers??? The odometer states 72K on the clock so I don't want to destroy the engine / drivetrain. No price ever discussed or even hinted at.
My thoughts are now converging on re-capturing my $250 bucks invested in towing the damm car around for the past 9 months plus the few bucks I got into the car for the inital purchase and dump that money in the 84 300cd if I can buy the coupe for around $500-$750 (max). I am assuming the car has no or minimal rust but the spare tire well was a fish tank -- totally full of water.
Any thoughts out there ? I am a little dissapointed at this point to say the least. I found an old-timer last week who knows the older MBs from a body-frame perspective, and he gave me the bad news today on my lunch break. He tried to talk me out of working on the Phoenix project any more as he clearly indicated that the first body shop guy was a total moron and that he virtually ruined the car. I am thinking he was correct since I did pester the first guy to put the car on the rack first before welding on the front clip, and that never happened. However, I deserve to some degree what I got because I went to a long term buddy when I have seen the work there before and it's generally "average" at best or sub-par typically for the past few years.
Thanks ... and poop ... and some more poop.
What shape is the CD in?
Austincarnut
03-17-2013, 03:38 PM #13(03-15-2013, 01:45 PM)Greazzer Howdy,
Got some news today. Looks like the body shop who did the initial work on my Phoenix Project may have royally screwed up things to the point it is not cost effective to undue the front end issues. Assuming that is true, and the prognosis will be fully known next week, I have some options:
1. I can part out the Phoenix Project which has some virtually impeccable body parts, EG Doors, trunk lid, et cet. Any one interested in some Astral Blue body parts? I will re-list this in the FS section. Or, any one interested in a W123 which is in great shape from the firewall backwards ? This is why I got the car in the first place as it is beautiful from the firewall back. If I keep it, I am most likely looking at $600 to $700 to undo the damage and correct the frame / unibody and then I still need to get the front clip painted and put together.
2. The body shop (new one) has a 1984 300cd on the premises that has been sitting for 25 years per the owner. I was wondering if anyone out there has had an engine / car sit for extended periods of time, e.g., years and what precautions did you take before trying to fire it up. I used to play with Packards about 20+ years ago so I am familiar with long term sitters, so changing the fluids and filters, and running new fuel since that stuff gets gummy after 5 years or so is a must. Also, a cup full of MMO in each cylinder and let that soak for a week and turning the engine by the crank bolt a few dozen times also to make sure nothing is sticking. I would pop in rebuilt injectors and do the valves and glow plugs, then try to fire it up. Any other pointers??? The odometer states 72K on the clock so I don't want to destroy the engine / drivetrain. No price ever discussed or even hinted at.
My thoughts are now converging on re-capturing my $250 bucks invested in towing the damm car around for the past 9 months plus the few bucks I got into the car for the inital purchase and dump that money in the 84 300cd if I can buy the coupe for around $500-$750 (max). I am assuming the car has no or minimal rust but the spare tire well was a fish tank -- totally full of water.
Any thoughts out there ? I am a little dissapointed at this point to say the least. I found an old-timer last week who knows the older MBs from a body-frame perspective, and he gave me the bad news today on my lunch break. He tried to talk me out of working on the Phoenix project any more as he clearly indicated that the first body shop guy was a total moron and that he virtually ruined the car. I am thinking he was correct since I did pester the first guy to put the car on the rack first before welding on the front clip, and that never happened. However, I deserve to some degree what I got because I went to a long term buddy when I have seen the work there before and it's generally "average" at best or sub-par typically for the past few years.
Thanks ... and poop ... and some more poop.
What shape is the CD in?
03-17-2013, 09:37 PM
#14
If they messed it up go yell at them. I'd look over the CD very closely though-the CDs are way cooler than the Ds.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-17-2013, 09:37 PM #14Be weary of the CD-if a body shop or mechanic hasn't been using it what's wrong with it? Will it be like the $600 CD I found?
If they messed it up go yell at them. I'd look over the CD very closely though-the CDs are way cooler than the Ds.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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