just another om617 in a yj
just another om617 in a yj
Hahahaha, I can imagine how that went down. I drilled some holes around it, cut and then beat the sides down. If I was to do it again I would take a holesaw after it and then take care of the sharp edge. I'll snag a picture for you this evening.
Nice, I want to hear some updates when you get back!
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That sounds about right, most likely be headed that way when funds allow. Dieselmeken is taking MW pumps is what the grapevine says, 8mm elements and all.
Hahahaha, I can imagine how that went down. I drilled some holes around it, cut and then beat the sides down. If I was to do it again I would take a holesaw after it and then take care of the sharp edge. I'll snag a picture for you this evening.
Nice, I want to hear some updates when you get back!
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As you can see, I just gutted it. I wasn't sure what the real diameter of a diesel pump was so I went a on the large size. Works well enough though.
![[Image: 17086068486_c261bae0f6_c.jpg]](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7687/17086068486_c261bae0f6_c.jpg)
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Here's that picture, sorry I didn't get it to you when I said I would. We were having problems with the computer.
As you can see, I just gutted it. I wasn't sure what the real diameter of a diesel pump was so I went a on the large size. Works well enough though.
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I wish I would have thought about that when I dropped the tank. It'll be a pain to pull the hose again and I don't wanna put all those metal shavings in my fuel tank. I'm planning on using a dremel, the diesel filler looks to be about 1/4" bigger than my hole, so I'll probably make it 3/4" bigger just to be safe. Maybe I could stick my shop vac down by the hole and use a magnet to catch the metal shavings? I've put about 250 miles on it so far and have been very happy with it. It'll do 65 on the highway no problem, minimal vibrations and no slop or shaking in the steering and I'm not even running a steering stabilizer.
It's at a shop getting the exhaust done now.
The alternator doesn't seem to be charging correctly though. Had a dead battery the other day after driving it and leaving it parked for a couple hours. I hooked the blue wire up to the dark green wire that goes to the voltage regulator, but I'm wondering if having most of the wiring harness disconnected is preventing the vtagw regulator from getting voltage or something. Thinking of just running a GM one wire alternator.
I lol sounds like a nightmare!
I wish I would have thought about that when I dropped the tank. It'll be a pain to pull the hose again and I don't wanna put all those metal shavings in my fuel tank. I'm planning on using a dremel, the diesel filler looks to be about 1/4" bigger than my hole, so I'll probably make it 3/4" bigger just to be safe. Maybe I could stick my shop vac down by the hole and use a magnet to catch the metal shavings? I've put about 250 miles on it so far and have been very happy with it. It'll do 65 on the highway no problem, minimal vibrations and no slop or shaking in the steering and I'm not even running a steering stabilizer.
It's at a shop getting the exhaust done now.
The alternator doesn't seem to be charging correctly though. Had a dead battery the other day after driving it and leaving it parked for a couple hours. I hooked the blue wire up to the dark green wire that goes to the voltage regulator, but I'm wondering if having most of the wiring harness disconnected is preventing the vtagw regulator from getting voltage or something. Thinking of just running a GM one wire alternator.
I was able to pull mine without dropping the tank. I think it was something like 4 or 6 bolts and 2 hose clamps. The YJ should be nearly identical to the CJ as far as tubs go. Dremel would be the way to go if you have one, should make things a lot tidier. You could go the shop vac route, but I wouldn't if the tank was still hooked up. What if you just undid the feed hose and attached the vac to that? You wouldn't have to unbolt the filler hole/neck from the body that way. Glad to hear that yours is holding together well. That's really exciting for me to hear that it'll do 65 just fine, I'm still trying to track down an air in the fuel and they most I can get is about 60, even though I have deeper gearing in the high range than you do. Hmmmm.......
How did your low end grunt do? With the 4.70 low, I imagine that boost will roll on pretty quickly.
I just wired mine into a light on the dash and it's been going strong.... Can't help you on that one. If you do get a different alternator, I'd snag one you can run a tach off of. Can the GM one wire do that?
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It actually wasn't too bad. Took maybe an hour to do start to finish, and that's including painting the gas cap.
I was able to pull mine without dropping the tank. I think it was something like 4 or 6 bolts and 2 hose clamps. The YJ should be nearly identical to the CJ as far as tubs go. Dremel would be the way to go if you have one, should make things a lot tidier. You could go the shop vac route, but I wouldn't if the tank was still hooked up. What if you just undid the feed hose and attached the vac to that? You wouldn't have to unbolt the filler hole/neck from the body that way. Glad to hear that yours is holding together well. That's really exciting for me to hear that it'll do 65 just fine, I'm still trying to track down an air in the fuel and they most I can get is about 60, even though I have deeper gearing in the high range than you do. Hmmmm.......
How did your low end grunt do? With the 4.70 low, I imagine that boost will roll on pretty quickly.
I just wired mine into a light on the dash and it's been going strong.... Can't help you on that one. If you do get a different alternator, I'd snag one you can run a tach off of. Can the GM one wire do that?
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are you using the stock fuel return on your tank? I've heard that if you dont run the return all the way to the bottom of the tank, the falling fuel will put a bunch of air into your fuel. i've heard of that happening on someone's cummins and made it almost completely undrivable. i ran my pickup and return all the way to the bottom of the tank with a 90* turn at the bottom. are you running a boost gauge? how much boost are you putting out? I plugged the wastegate line on the turbo and it made a big difference.
low end is great in low with the 4.7s, but since its so low theres almost no range so i dont have much time to build boost because it revs up so fast. topped out in 1st gear im going about 2mph.
I got the alternator sorted out, didnt have the wire terminated properly! but i picked up an external voltage regulator anyways since i'm trying to do away with the jeep engine harness. I got one of these for $20 from autozone. its from a 1980 dodge truck with the 360.
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starti...30203_0_0/
and the little pig tail for $10
http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-l...id=6011898
it should clean it up nicely. eventually ill go to another alternator that actually puts out 14v.
what alternator are you running? do you have a tach? A tach would be really nice to have.
I ditched the stock air cleaner so ive got the crankcase vent just open, its throwing oil all over the motor and making for a stinky drive. im going to build a catch can tonight or tomorrow to capture the oil, return it to the oil pan and send the blow by gases back into the intake.
when i pulled the tank last time, the filler hose was so stiff it was a hassle to take off, but its better than filling my IP with metal shavings. I got it up to almost 80mph yesterday. flat ground, had some RPMs to go but not enough power to get there. took a long time to get there too.
are you using the stock fuel return on your tank? I've heard that if you dont run the return all the way to the bottom of the tank, the falling fuel will put a bunch of air into your fuel. i've heard of that happening on someone's cummins and made it almost completely undrivable. i ran my pickup and return all the way to the bottom of the tank with a 90* turn at the bottom. are you running a boost gauge? how much boost are you putting out? I plugged the wastegate line on the turbo and it made a big difference.
low end is great in low with the 4.7s, but since its so low theres almost no range so i dont have much time to build boost because it revs up so fast. topped out in 1st gear im going about 2mph.
I got the alternator sorted out, didnt have the wire terminated properly! but i picked up an external voltage regulator anyways since i'm trying to do away with the jeep engine harness. I got one of these for $20 from autozone. its from a 1980 dodge truck with the 360.
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starti...30203_0_0/
and the little pig tail for $10
http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-l...id=6011898
it should clean it up nicely. eventually ill go to another alternator that actually puts out 14v.
what alternator are you running? do you have a tach? A tach would be really nice to have.
I ditched the stock air cleaner so ive got the crankcase vent just open, its throwing oil all over the motor and making for a stinky drive. im going to build a catch can tonight or tomorrow to capture the oil, return it to the oil pan and send the blow by gases back into the intake.
Sort of... The Jeep came with a custom 24gal steel tank. I think the sending unit is out of.... something. I forget. Probably the stock jeep one. The last time I took it out, and it died after the customary 5 mile run, I noticed that I was introducing bubbles into the clear prefilter when I was pumping. The new one should come in tomorrow. Running out of things to change. If that doesn't cure it, I'll elongate the return line in the tank. I have a manual boost controller and it's set to 14psi. Boost comes on hard and strong. Major power increase when it happens. ALDA is also removed.
How high would you say you spin it out to? I ran some numbers, you should be getting about 5mph out of first, I think...
Thanks for those part number, they'll be good for future reference.
I just have the stock alternator from the 300TD. Seems to power everything so far, but that's not saying much. Oh man, a tach would be so nice. I have a guy who is trying to get my stock 6cyl tach to work off of the MB signal. If it works, should be slick.
I used a cone filter and just plumbed the CC vent to feed into the intake. Probably not the best, but its a functional solution for the mean time.
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Hey, 80mph is still 80mph. If I can hold 70-75 on the flat I will be pleased. What are you boosting to?
Sort of... The Jeep came with a custom 24gal steel tank. I think the sending unit is out of.... something. I forget. Probably the stock jeep one. The last time I took it out, and it died after the customary 5 mile run, I noticed that I was introducing bubbles into the clear prefilter when I was pumping. The new one should come in tomorrow. Running out of things to change. If that doesn't cure it, I'll elongate the return line in the tank. I have a manual boost controller and it's set to 14psi. Boost comes on hard and strong. Major power increase when it happens. ALDA is also removed.
How high would you say you spin it out to? I ran some numbers, you should be getting about 5mph out of first, I think...
Thanks for those part number, they'll be good for future reference.
I just have the stock alternator from the 300TD. Seems to power everything so far, but that's not saying much. Oh man, a tach would be so nice. I have a guy who is trying to get my stock 6cyl tach to work off of the MB signal. If it works, should be slick.
I used a cone filter and just plumbed the CC vent to feed into the intake. Probably not the best, but its a functional solution for the mean time.
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I don't feel a huge surge of power when the boost comes in. I wonder if I've got a boost leak or if I'm just used to the turbo on my powerstroke. You definitely know when that starts to boost!
Have you made sure you don't have any cracks in your fuel line? Since the Lift pump sucks the fuel, if you have a small crack it can pull air in. Another reason why I like the idea of an electric lift pump near the tank. That way if there's a crack, I'll leak onto the ground instead of suck air.
First gear in the r150F is 3.83:1, transfer case gears are 4.7:1, axles are 5.38:1 and the tires are 38" tall. Not sure what that comes out too as far as speed. 2 mph was my estimate but it could be higher. It felt like walking speed, but it's all relative.
A tach would be great, if you get that sorted out let me know. I'm not too worried about not having a tach since its mechanically governed. But it would be nice to have.
I plan on doing a catch can I found a write up for on Benz world. It'll drain the oil back into the oil pan and send the exhaust gases back into the intake. I need an air filter too, but running one at all right now.
I don't have a boost gauge yet. Boost gauge and fuel gauge are next on the list.
I don't feel a huge surge of power when the boost comes in. I wonder if I've got a boost leak or if I'm just used to the turbo on my powerstroke. You definitely know when that starts to boost!
Have you made sure you don't have any cracks in your fuel line? Since the Lift pump sucks the fuel, if you have a small crack it can pull air in. Another reason why I like the idea of an electric lift pump near the tank. That way if there's a crack, I'll leak onto the ground instead of suck air.
First gear in the r150F is 3.83:1, transfer case gears are 4.7:1, axles are 5.38:1 and the tires are 38" tall. Not sure what that comes out too as far as speed. 2 mph was my estimate but it could be higher. It felt like walking speed, but it's all relative.
A tach would be great, if you get that sorted out let me know. I'm not too worried about not having a tach since its mechanically governed. But it would be nice to have.
I plan on doing a catch can I found a write up for on Benz world. It'll drain the oil back into the oil pan and send the exhaust gases back into the intake. I need an air filter too, but running one at all right now.
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radiator started leaking as well, so i ordered a 3 core brass/copper radiator that should be here thursday. we're going on a 3 day 4 wheeling trip on friday so before we leave i need to do the following:
-build tray and set up 2nd battery for dual battery set up
-install new alternator
-clean up electrical wiring and remove jeep engine wiring harness
here are some videos from the weekend
Did some wheelin with it! very happy with it, except for the dead battery due to the crappy 60 amp alternator and a 40amp electric fan! ordered a saab 9000 alternator that should be here tomorrow.
radiator started leaking as well, so i ordered a 3 core brass/copper radiator that should be here thursday. we're going on a 3 day 4 wheeling trip on friday so before we leave i need to do the following:
-build tray and set up 2nd battery for dual battery set up
-install new alternator
-clean up electrical wiring and remove jeep engine wiring harness
here are some videos from the weekend
![[Image: IMG_4662_zpsdbpddzhb.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4662_zpsdbpddzhb.jpg.html)
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also, i made my front driveline. i was stupid and made it 4" too short because the slip yoke was extended when i measured before cutting. iI fixed it by cutting the driveline at a 45 with my chop saw and then putting 4" of driveline material back in that was also cut at 45s. then i used some 3/4" flat stock and welded it over the spliced in section. should be strong enough. i wasn't able to find any tubing or pipe to sleeve it with. i used a 2nd gen 4runner rear driveline for the bottom and a CV joint from a 1st gen 4runner front driveline. its not that straight, it wobbles and it will obviously never balance, but it'll be fine for what we need it to do. eventually i'll probably end up putting a square driveline in if this one breaks.
R150 1st gear: 3.83:1
Transfercase: 4.7:1
Differential gears: 5.38:1
96.84:1
I wanted to do dual transferacses with 2.28s in the first case and 4.7s in the sencond which would give her 220:1, but the 96:1 feels better than i anticipiated and seems to idle up most anything. i may still do dual cases, but not until i stretch and comp cut the rear, which wont be for a long time.
stock jeep weight is 3300lbs, i figure i've got another 1,000lbs or so at least. the om617 isn't much heavier than the 4.0, but the axles and tires are heavy. still lighter than a 300D though!
crawl ratio is:
R150 1st gear: 3.83:1
Transfercase: 4.7:1
Differential gears: 5.38:1
96.84:1
I wanted to do dual transferacses with 2.28s in the first case and 4.7s in the sencond which would give her 220:1, but the 96:1 feels better than i anticipiated and seems to idle up most anything. i may still do dual cases, but not until i stretch and comp cut the rear, which wont be for a long time.
stock jeep weight is 3300lbs, i figure i've got another 1,000lbs or so at least. the om617 isn't much heavier than the 4.0, but the axles and tires are heavy. still lighter than a 300D though!
Got the new radiator installed but the fan I have isn't strong enough so it gets pretty hot at higher RPMs. I got a 2 speed Taurus fan that I'm gonna set up that should be more than adequate at keeping it cool at any temperature.
Also got the new, non leaking, radiator installed.
Ditched the Benz alternator and put in the Saab alternator. Huge difference! I don't think I need dual batteries now.
Got the new radiator installed but the fan I have isn't strong enough so it gets pretty hot at higher RPMs. I got a 2 speed Taurus fan that I'm gonna set up that should be more than adequate at keeping it cool at any temperature.
Also got the new, non leaking, radiator installed.
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fit well. not much room to spare, but just enough to slip a v belt through. cleaned up the wiring since this picture
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first relay is for low speed, second is for high speed. right now i have them set up on a 3 way switch on the dash, eventually i'll wire in a couple thermal switches
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here is the new radiator and fan combo. motor stays nice and cool now in all conditions so far
fit well. not much room to spare, but just enough to slip a v belt through. cleaned up the wiring since this picture
first relay is for low speed, second is for high speed. right now i have them set up on a 3 way switch on the dash, eventually i'll wire in a couple thermal switches
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the clutch went out, or the slave, or something. sounds like there are rocks in the bellhousing and the clutch is grabbing inconsistently. could be the pilot bearing or one of the clutch springs or who knows what.
so, i'm pulling the transmission and transfercase to replace the clutch, slave\throwout combo and pilot bearing. while i've got it all out, im going to reseal everything that i can because i have a really bad transfercase leak and the motor leaks a lot too.
gonna pull the case completely apart. might even rebuild it while its apart, but we'll see.
the old blow by gas line i had was just a rubber hose from the valve cover to the ground. it got pinched off by the hood and blew out the valve cover gasket. so i ordered a seal kit for the motor and transfercase.
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drove it the other day, its running really good, BUT do you know what happens when you do a motor swap and you dont replace the clutch?
the clutch went out, or the slave, or something. sounds like there are rocks in the bellhousing and the clutch is grabbing inconsistently. could be the pilot bearing or one of the clutch springs or who knows what.
so, i'm pulling the transmission and transfercase to replace the clutch, slave\throwout combo and pilot bearing. while i've got it all out, im going to reseal everything that i can because i have a really bad transfercase leak and the motor leaks a lot too.
gonna pull the case completely apart. might even rebuild it while its apart, but we'll see.
the old blow by gas line i had was just a rubber hose from the valve cover to the ground. it got pinched off by the hood and blew out the valve cover gasket. so i ordered a seal kit for the motor and transfercase.
Drives great on the street, little to no vibrations (except at idle).
Runs nice and cool with that Taurus fan. It was 100 degrees yesterday and the hottest it got was 200 degrees, and that was going up a long steep hill at 50mph.
Offroad it does great. The gearing is so low and with the welded front and rear it goes everywhere.
Next I want to tune the injection pump and remove the rack limiter for a little more power.
Now I get to do fun stuff to it!
Put close to 500 miles on the jeep now and it's doing great. Still got some leaks I'm working through but im very happy with the swap. Went from getting 10mpg to close to 18mpg. Can't complain about that.
Drives great on the street, little to no vibrations (except at idle).
Runs nice and cool with that Taurus fan. It was 100 degrees yesterday and the hottest it got was 200 degrees, and that was going up a long steep hill at 50mph.
Offroad it does great. The gearing is so low and with the welded front and rear it goes everywhere.
Next I want to tune the injection pump and remove the rack limiter for a little more power.
Now I get to do fun stuff to it!
Read OM616's pump tuning doc and tweak your pump using that info.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1QkAv...y=CJXuhs0I
DO NOT remove the rack limiter !!! Why isn't that manual deleted yet since it's so wrong ?
Read OM616's pump tuning doc and tweak your pump using that info.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1QkAv...y=CJXuhs0I
Great build by the way!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Petar is very right, reading and understanding om616 document will save you a lot of headaches in the end. The first time I did my pump, I didn't have his document and just got lucky and didn't seriously screw my settings up. Then I read the doc, and now I actually understand what I am working on haha.
Great build by the way!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
We did a 150 mile round trip the other day. Went from 4500ft elevation to 1000ft to 6500 ft and then back to 1000 then 4500 back to our house.
Got 21mpg! Can't argue with that! Not bad for something with no aerodynamics whatsoever, 38" tires, 5.38 gears and a spooled rear end
Thanks for that doc! I understand the IP so much more now!
We did a 150 mile round trip the other day. Went from 4500ft elevation to 1000ft to 6500 ft and then back to 1000 then 4500 back to our house.
Got 21mpg! Can't argue with that! Not bad for something with no aerodynamics whatsoever, 38" tires, 5.38 gears and a spooled rear end
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