Improving my W124's handling

atypicalguy

11-04-2019, 09:12 AM #41

(10-05-2019, 09:49 PM)JoeB
(09-20-2019, 09:03 PM)atypicalguy Does anyone know what spring pads I should use to achieve stock ride height on an 87 wagon with stock sportline springs?

Mercedes used a points system to determine the correct shim and spring parts.

firstly, you need to provide your VIN, to which it will aggregate all the SA codes and provide a baseline number of points. then the option codes from the datacard are added and the vehicles total 'points' determines the correct spring part numbers and the shim pad part numbers.

Wagons have SLS in the rear as well, so the sportline springs and shim pads are very sensitive to the levelling valve adjustment, and it needs to be set correctly, else the dampers can bottom out on the valve and permanently damage them.

If you can find the part number on your sportline springs (stamped into the first coil near the tail), and the number of nibs on your rubber shim, then it will make it a little easier to determine, but not necessarily correct if you have taken sportline springs from a sedan which has different axle weights.

Please read the attached EPC info. Get your vin, and your datacard or take a pic of the metal plates on the radiator support which has all the option codes. use the info in the attachments.
If you do not have sportline suspension as standard and you are only addidng the springs, your rear struts will not correctly dampen the spring, leading to premature failure of the accumulators and strut seals. There is a sportline strut part and also a heavy duty spring and damper set of parts. You need to verify the option codes on your vehicle, else it will only make things worse.

Thanks. I put new springs and sls struts on, both sportline, so that should be OK

I do not think an SL subframe will work, but I could easily be wrong. A subframe from a V8 car will work on a non-v8 wagon, but the SLS mounting bracket needs to be modified with a hammer, or a new one fabricated. The lines rub on the axle shafts otherwise.

The V8 diff is 210mm which is wider than the 2.65 the non-v8 300td came with, so you need half shafts from a v8 car to make it all work. They have a beefier inner CV joint, but the same outer joint, as the non-v8 shafts. The shafts are slightly shorter due to the wider diff but work with the same hubs.

Matching driveshafts is my current issue. Diff has a 4 bolt flange but the car has 3 bolt. Larger 4 bolt guibo will not fit up front due to the transmission mount bolt. So it will be 3 bolt front half and a 4 bolt rear half if I can find one the proper length. Just got the fresh subframe installed, so measuring up the driveline is next.

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